john deere 24t baler

[haymow]

i am thinking of fitting a 15 hp chinese honda clone engine to my baler, sick of clutch pawl chatter etc, i do small irregular shaped fields, i think this engine would have enough power, so many advantages to having an engine on baler, your ideas comments appreciated. does one have to remove plunger to re shim, how does one go about this, in the likely event that the 3/8 plow bolts turn bad and get ruined, where is best place to obtain them in usa, as likely not available in new zealand, any tips or comments on this operation greatly appreciated, you americans, are very helpfull hhanks in advance

 

[Tx Jim]

15 HP engine may be large enough although JD utilized a 2 cyl Wisconsin engine on a 24T that's 18 HP. I once successfully baled with a JD 214WS utilizing my JD BO tractor that's only 14 HP. One can install the slotted plunger head shims by just loosening the retainer bolts.while PH stays in baler JD still offers some of these plow bolts in part dept..

 

[Oldtractorfixer]

I think your going to be disappointed with 15hp clone. These engines do not have the torque that the old Wisconsins had. I would be looking at more like a 20hp. You can check parts breakdown for these on John Deere's web site. Most parts are available for JD. Haven't made many changes from these to the new ones.

 

[zzvyb6]

Clutch/pall chatter is (if I read you right) is caused by your driveline not being set up quite right. To completely solve this problem, you can replace the front U-joint on the baler tongue with a true CV driveline part. You can buy them new or used. Or, you can fab up a perfect CV joint driveline from the axle shafts of FWD car (outer joint).

The problem is that the tractor pto U-joint and the drawbar U-joint are not at equal angles and/or not phased properly for the height difference between them when you turn (they didn't put a phase angle on the intermediate shaft anyways). Sometimes you can adjust your tractor's drawbar length to get the angle to be pretty close, but not perfect. This at least lets you turn right OK. The CV joint will eliminate all these constraints.

Tightening up the clutch chain helps with the chatter a lot.

You guys are pretty handy with riggin', this SOLVES the chatter problem and let's you disconnect the drive from th pTO clutch when you get a plug, instead of yanking the engine stop cord and crossing your fingers.

 

[Tx Jim]

Before I'd install a CV driveshaft I install a equal angle hitch that JD utilized on 336/346 balers. IMHO the EA hitch stop pto driveline chatter as good or better than a CV driveshaft. Another thing to check for is seized slip clutch linings. All equal angle hitch accomplished was putting pivot point between baler/tractor exactly the same distance from end of tractor pto shaft & end of baler driveline at carrier brg.

 

[flusher]

i am thinking of fitting a 15 hp chinese honda clone engine to my baler, sick of clutch pawl chatter etc, i do small irregular shaped fields, i think this engine would have enough power, so many advantages to having an engine on baler, your ideas comments appreciated. does one have to remove plunger to re shim, how does one go about this, in the likely event that the 3/8 plow bolts turn bad and get ruined, where is best place to obtain them in usa, as likely not available in new zealand, any tips or comments on this operation greatly appreciated, you americans, are very helpfull hhanks in advance

I've used one of those 13 hp Honda clones to replace the worn out Tecumseh engine on my Bolens 1453 garden tractor. Mine was the 420cc Predator engine from Harbor Freight.

I notice that HF is selling a 22 hp, 670cc Predator engine now

22 HP (67cc) V-Twin Horizontal Shaft Gas Engine EPA

I'd go for this one for your application.

Good luck

 

[buickanddeere]

Are the pto u-joints in phase or out of phase ?

 

[haymow]

pto joints are in phase, thanks for all your replys, on you tube there is an old massey harris tractor,with a 13 hp clone,powering it baling, 2 bottom plowing,spreading manure, etc, rattyranch posted it hard to believe this film, a friend said the clones may not have decent enough mains to take flat belt loading, as a wisc thd is pretty beefy in this area, i will have a good think about it, really enjoy this forum, thanks to all you men once again for your input......peter from new zealand

 

[Tx Jim]

haymow aka Peter
It was enjoyable talking to you on the phone last night. Here's a photo of the baler side of the equal angle hitch I talked to you about. You could adapt the ball & socket from a salvage tractors 3 pt Cat ll draft link or new ball/socket can be purchased at some farm supply stores in the USA.I have no idea of parts availability in N Z. For tractor end one can utilize a thick flat plate with holes in it so it can be bolted to tractor drawbar with a Cat ll bolt on pin will work fine as that's what I utilized to tow implements that had this style equal angle hitch when I was employed at JD dealership. As I stated last night be sure the pivot point between tractor & baler is EXACTLY 1/2 way and the chatter in sharp turn should go away if your u-joints are in phase as you stated. Tractor EA hitch adapter doesn't need to be this elaborate.
Jim

 

[haymow]

thanks jim for your help on this subject, i am xxxxxx off with the chatter, so will fabricate a hitch as you have suggested, thanks again to you helpfull people in the usa