So this is about where I'll end things. It really worked out great in the end. I made up some mounting tabs and that keeps the hoses in place and free from binding anywhere. I also did add an additional tab behind the valve and tied it in there. Super sturdy now.
Thanks to everyone here who...
That is how I have it:
Pressure port on plate (P) to inlet on valve (P).
Return to sump on plate (T) to outlet on valve (T).
Power beyond on plate (PB) to power beyond on valve (C).
The valve I'm using is this...
Well I got everything back together. But uh, my three point hitch won't lift. Went down like normal. I think my pump lost prime? I'm not really sure. Anybody have any ideas?
Been really busy getting everything ready for Spring. But here's an update on stuff.
I did grind the bolts down, and they fit fine. That wasn't a big deal.
The open port in top of the blocking plate is 1/4" NPT. I had a brass plug that I put in for now, but I do have a black plug I might use...
So I grabbed the hydraulic blocking plate cover (Ford Part# C5NN475B). It was pretty rough, so same thing. I stoned it to get it as flat as I could and get all the burs off. This part does not come with O-rings, so I'll need to head down to the hardware store and grab some.
I started mocking...
I'm redoing all the plumbing on my tractor and loader. The hoses are old and cracked, and I also want to change up the loader valve and rear remotes.
This is my tractor, late 70's Ford 4100. It has the internal hydraulic pump. Some tractors have an engine mounted pump or earlier Ford's had a...
Well I gave up hope on these old valves. Hoses need to be replaced anyways. Going to make this right.
Last night I ordered a hydraulic lid blocking plate, the tisco hv5902 hydraulic plate with power beyond port, and a chief p40 monoblock triple spool valve and the adapter to tap into the power...
I was also thinking -- previous owner had added quick connects underneath to make it easier to remove loader. Could tee-ing in like this screw up the circuit?