Recent content by Chris Wilson

I want to remove the engine cover (hood, bonnet, whatever you want to call it). I am on my own for the moment, am I likely to manage it myself or should I wait until I can find a helper? I was going to remove the front lovered grille panel first, as it looks heavy... i am removing it as I am...

Thanks toolslinger, appreciated!

Would me having front loader on affect this? I would need to refresh my mind as to whether there's anything that might get in the way, or are the pumps still within the front bodywork? Thanks. Having a front mounted pump to a loader mounted auger would reduce the pipework runs, for sure.

OK, understood now ptsg. thanks. What other stuff would I need to run a hydraulic auger from an external pump? Reservoir and filter and some form of control valve? Do these hydraulic post hole augers need reversing in case they get stuck, or are you reliant in, in my case, the front loader...

When you say a PTO speed increase, do you mean just running the engine faster, or gearing the PTO output shaft up witth some form of external gearbox? Thanks, sorry if the question is naive, and I appreciate your reply and the photo, I'll look FlowFit up. EDIT, silly me, it looks like the pump...

Thanks, that's an option I didn't know about, I'll check it out, thank you.

I would like to buy and use a hydraulic post hole borer to run on the front loader of my little MF35. I know the stock hydraulics won't run one, the auger I am looking at ideally needs about 35 litres a minute. An absolute minimum of 25 litres a minute. Can I find a suitable PTO pump to give...

Hands up, it's not from my tractor, it's from a Toyota road car PAS pump. They give "issues" and I suspect the conical brass gauze filter shown gets blocked. The factory manual gives no detailed description of how the PRV works internally. It's in the sliding vane rotary pump casting itself...

I have a nice little MF35, that i use for moving bales and general smallholding duties. I have an old cable driven post knocker for it, and it is showing up some wear issues on the lift arms. the knocker is totally stable and accurately adjustable in one plane, via the male and female threaded...

Not had my old Massey Ferguson 35 very long, and have used it so far mainly for pulling a water ballast roller and moving full size round bales with a rear spike and spikes on the FEL with the Ferguson concrete weight block on the back, to put bales in the feeder. I am wondering if I can use...

I am looking to buy the type of 3PH post driver shown in the photo below, but hopefully a little smaller. I am getting a lot of conflicting advice as to whether a Massey Ferguson 35 is big and heavy enough to run one, and if its hydraulics are up to it. has anyone got such a machine on a small...

I am looking to buy the type of 3PH post driver shown in the photo below, but hopefully a little smaller. I am getting a lot of conflicting advice as to whether a Massey Ferguson 35 is big and heavy enough to run one, and if its hydraulics are up to it. has anyone got such a machine on a small...

Do any tractors have dual acting rams on the back linkage, so they can push down, as well as lift up? The reason I ask is if you had, for example, a post hole borer on the rear linkage, with a dual acting ram you could apply more load to the auger than that generated by the assemblies own...

I use a 3 cylinder diesel MF35 to mainly move full size round bales, either on a 3 PT fork, or on the FEL bucket spikes, to drop them into a feeder ring. When the FEL is in use I have the original MF concrete weight on the back for balance. Can someone suggest tyre pressures to use? Thanks...

I want to buy a water ballasted roller to level out a few acres of field that the moles have had a party in. I only have a little Massey Ferguson 35 to pull it, and I was going to get a 30 inch diameter 5 foot one, but have had a sudden thought. The rear wheel track on the tractor is 6 feet...