Recent content by flyerdan

You do realize that the one I linked is the electric Dremel style with .125" collet size? I do have the HF die grinder, 3" cutter and 90 degree die grinder for roloc discs and am quite happy with them as well.

I see in the latest round of coupons they have the Variable speed rotary tool on sale, I have this exact one and it's a keeper. It has it's own case so you can keep accessories with it, I use it quite a bit.

That looks like a bearing race retainer, or part of one. I'd check the brush hog and see if any spindles are about to come apart.

It could be a bad cell in the battery, check the voltage at the battery terminals when engaging the starter. If it drops, bad cell. If it stays at 6+v, check the connections at the terminals, starter connections, and solenoid, if separate, and ground. Take note of the cable condition as well...

It appears that the new seal doesn't have any rubber contact with the shaft, I don't see how it can keep from seeping, unless there is a rubber contact area on the back that I can't see. I can understand the full metal cover, as that would keep long grass or twine that got wound up from...

Test the contact points in the bulb socket with a DMM, if you don't get any voltage reading, try a different ground point. If you get voltage, the fixture had a bad ground, if you don't get voltage, you need to chase the wiring upstream to find the fault. It'll probably be in a loom, so check...

I think that a lot of the maligning of HF stuff is from people who are incapable of doing repair or modification. Those of us who can will look at something and say 'it's a good starting point, but it needs a gusset here... or this needs to be sleeved...' and it's good. Cali, I highly doubt...

Eric, just a point of clarity, if you use a screwdriver to jump the big terminals you are essentially bypassing the solenoid and putting battery power directly into the starter motor. If it doesn't spin then, especially if voltage is present at the cable terminal I would suspect that there...

When you tested it with a wire, you did get power from the bottom terminal with the battery cable, correct? That should have activated it, if it just clicked and didn't engage and start turning the engine over, that would be an issue with the solenoid not allowing the main terminals to bridge...

Sounds like the battery. Clip the test leads to the battery, with the machine off it will read 13v. Turn to start and watch the drop, if it immediately drops to 9v or less that's a good indication it's shot.

Shoot a little WD in the key switch, most dirty switches are more off than on, but it won't hurt. Check the battery terminals for corrosion between them and the posts, also check where the ground cable connects to the frame. If the starter has an onboard solenoid, it could be crudded up with...

It looks like you have port mount gauges rather than panel mount, those type are usually installed in a bushing on stationary equipment. There is a recess in the gauge pictured, perhaps you could cut a semicircle groove into your mounting board an use a dowel as kind of a key to keep it from...

Now you've got the old carb to experiment on, if something goes awry it won't be a big deal. Most small engine carb issues I've run across are from a partially plugged main jet (in the housing that the bowl securing bolt screws into), and cleaning it out with a tip cleaner sorts it.

Is there any reason that you can't flip it over and set it on sawhorses so you can get to everything easily? I would do that, and tack weld a long bar on the stump jumper and put a cheater on the breaker bar, pull the two toward each other. If you have help, maybe an air hammer with a dull...

Somewhere on the tank there should be a triangle symbol with a number in it, that will tell what type of plastic it is, and what rod is required. You might find that info on a replacement tank listing in the parts book if you can't find it without removing a bunch of stuff.