Recent content by goose117

Thanks for the suggestions. I will follow the installation instructions more carefully and also try the dial rather than click torque wrench. I also have a digital readout available. There seems to be two kinds of gaskets that are available. All metal ones like the one I just pulled off and...

Update - I noticed a small puff of smoke coming from the bottom of the head when trying to start so pulled the head. The head gasket - which I had just installed a week ago - had a large piece missing. Going to clean the surfaces again and put a new gasket on.

I tried an auxiliary tank sitting on the air cleaner bypassing the fuel bowl and filter. There were no bubbles and the tractor didn't stop on its own. It still is a bit difficult to start and is still smoky but progress. So I think I need to work on the fuel bowl and tank plumbing for the...

The fuel bowl assembly is new. The tractor doesn't have a thermo-start. The fuel jumping up in the tank in the video is directly over the outlet that runs to the fuel bowl. It almost seems like there is some back pressure into the tank at the outlet being viewed in the video but there is a...

Peter - I agree the smoke isn't really that black after looking at it again. I did check for bubbles and oil in the radiator and I don't think I'm getting either. Careyo63 I did empty the tank and put a new filter in. Didn't seem to change the behavior. One thing I noticed with a clear tube...

B maverick - thanks for sharing the do and don't list. Peter- it is smoky from the time I start it while sitting with no load. In the short video Smoky dying tractor this is at medium throttle after running a minute or so. I have bled the pump to injector lines. I am thinking of cracking...

Just to follow up - it seems like the starting is quite a bit better but still not quick to start. I think there is another issue in that besides being somewhat hard to start, there is a lot of black smoke and it doesn't run for long before it just slows down and stops without load. In putting...

Just to follow up, I had leading and lagging backwards for the injector pump timing. I was able to get pretty close to the injector timing mark with one 0.001" and one 0.0005" shim. This was with the injector pump control rack pushed all the way towards the back of the tractor. I noticed that...

It seems like I need to remove more shims than are installed to get the timing correct. I have seen a few similar posts of what to do if removing all the shims does not get the timing to where it is supposed to be, but I didn't see any answers posted. I did put some extra shims in to see that...

Here's what I've tried based on thepumpguysc input. The injection timing monitoring tube (photo) has a small flow when the when the engine is before 1 TDC. As the engine is rotated CW, the flow slows and stops. The photo with the red lines shows where I think the timing marks are. I also...

I did compression testing (using a tester I got from Hoyes) on each cylinder and got more than 550 psi in each. I put in new sleeves, pistons, rings, and head.

Thanks for the description. I hadn't seen anything about what the drip tube should look like.

I've had this tractor for more than 20 years and a few years ago I could no longer get it started. After many new parts including injectors and injector pump the tractor is still very hard to start. Compression seems to be good and it seemed like fuel is getting out of the injectors so I...

It does sound like I'm not following what is happening correctly. It seems like the fuel will flow out of my monitoring tube if I put the open end below the fuel tank level at least for some part of the engine's cycle. Maybe this is OK and I rotate the engine till the flow stops and this is...

Thank you! There is a lot of good information in there. One thing I noticed is that the delivery amounts are around 25 cc per 1000 strokes, or 0.025 cc per stroke. For my 1/2 in ID monitoring tube, 0.025 cc is only a length of 0.008 inches, if I multiplied and converted correctly. If I used...