Recent content by HoyeTractor

Hi Winston. I'm glad you got your tractor running again and, yes, we were bought out by All States Ag Parts in May. Most of the same people stayed on and we are still at the same location so not much has really changed- except we have access to a lot more parts now.

What is your shipping zip code and what else is in your cart? Our shipping rates come direct from UPS.com with no added handling charges. UPS is extremely expensive these days but I did a few test orders and did not see anything close to $25. I think you are talking about this piece...

Some valves don't have a float position but, if it does, you just move the lever beyond the normal lower position. Push the lever to lower the bucket and then you would just push it a little more and it should go from 'power down' to a float. Normally there is a detent there to hold the valve in...

Our FB-2 is the longer bowl and is correct for the 2610. The FB-9155 is a larger diameter bowl used on some of the F series and will not fit on your filter valve. https://www.hoyetractor.com/PROD/FB-2.htm

You are correct. Just press them in to bleed the air. Some of the newer Yanmar models started using those instated of the regular bleeder screws.

I think what he is describing is turning down the OD of the alternator (because it spins with the pulley) to true it up and then mounting another pulley on the body of the alternator to drive a power steering pump. If so, I think that would put too much load on the belt driving the alternator...

The 276 manual will be very close and is as close as you will get. They both have the 3T84H engine, both have the same general powershift transmission, and both have the same 4wd axle design. It wont be 100% identical but will be very close.

I don't think I have ever considered the 2 cylinders to be any louder than the 3 cylinders- just a different kind of loud. You can hear each explosion on the 2 cylinders vs more of a roar on the 3 and 4 cylinders.

I think you should be able to reach it by removing the highlighted panel below.

Isn't the lower right just blank?

Upper left is high coolant temperature and upper right is low oil pressure. You can test those lights by touching the wire going to the temp switch and/or the oil pressure switch to a bare metal surface on the tractor. The corresponding light should light up.

I don't have that version's diagram on our website - only the older style. We should have those pieces in stock. I'm out of the office this week but our parts guys will be happy to help.

I bet we can get you a deal worked out. I'm out of the office this week but click on the Contact Us link below and one of our parts guys can get you fixed up.

That style uses a couple disc springs and friction washers to maintain tension on the lever. You might be able to tighten up the tension on those springs by tightening the nuts at the end or might need to replace the friction washer.

Hi Joel, We can't get the complete shaft right now (it is fairly unusual to need the complete assembly) but we do have all of the pieces to make a new one. The only complication is that you end up with duplicates of the actual shaft itself since one of the yokes is used in two places and is only...