Recent content by John0829

I mow a little over 6 acres and all of it hill, stub yer toe at the house and pick yourself up at the bottom of it, anyway I have ruts and holes cause by moles. Must be an army of them. Sometimes it is like driving over plowed ground and the problem is everytime it rains it washes out some of...

I had one (3 point), neighbor has a pull type and talk about a heavy cutter... anyway for the bearings I packed in some corn head grease. Since it will flow somewhat when it becomes warm I figured it would reach the lower bearing since I did not want the fight of taking it apart. When I sold it...

There are several people that say using GL5 in the sump will damage the bronze but IMHO and many others that is pure BS. I have used GL5 in everyone of the old N tractors I have owned (mainly because it is easier to find than GL1) and never once had any damage to any of them. One thing for...

I always used straight diesel to clean them out, fill it and drive it. I just DO NOT run the hydraulic pump more than a few minutes since I do not feel like diesel has sufficient lubrication for the pump. Diesel in a hand pump sprayer to wash down the upper case helps.

I have the Pat's and so far they have been great, for me personally they work better than a quick hitch. To each his own, it can be a hard choice to make without having experienced each to find out what works best for you.

I am going to make a 'WAG' here and say that the idler pulley failed and they stuck whatever they had on hand and could make work, even if it was wrong. Redneck engineering.

The seals should swell to seal that tiny bit of a gap BUT I still put a TINY dab of RTV in there to be safe. Sounds like you have beat it into submission and are headed on the downhill. (y)

The 860/861 and the early 4000 (4 cylinder) are basically the same tractor other than the hood. Parts are completely interchangeable between the two. As a note the Workmaster is the 600/601 series tractor the 800/801 are the Powermaster.

Flywheel to crankshaft 75-85 Clutch to flywheel 12-16 No torque is specified for the block to transmission housing in the service manual, use a standard torque chart to determine the values.

I firmly believe in converting to 12V, I just do not believe in the electronic ignition conversions. Converting to 12V is child's play, a GM alternator, a little wire, battery and coil is all that is needed. No need to change the starter, everything else stays the same.

First you do have it neutral, right? Make sure all the connections are clean and tight. Next try by passing the solenoid and see if it cranks if it does the solenoid is bad and you must get a solenoid made for the 8N. They are different in that they are internally hot and the push button switch...

Today I received the Wicked toothbar I ordered June 30, it may even be one from the video (Just guessing, I NEVER have been on or ever will be on Fartbook) I was going to wait to install it tomorrow but decided I couldn't wait. This thing should be called BEAST, heavy, very well made and fit the...

Since you say it uses a shear bolt, soak it with penetrating oil for a few days and smack it with a hammer every now and then as well, then run it without the bolt in. It will loosen up, probably just rusted up. Some yokes used with a shear bolt also had a small hole that a roll pin went in...

That is how I remove just about all races anymore, so simple and it really does not that big of a bead.

Looks awfully much like a LandPride I once had.