Recent content by Kenduro

Don't have eyes on it presently but the control lever uses 2 stiff cables to actuate the valves which are below the floorplate off the bell housing. I think therere is a tee in the hardline that supplies the valves, but I need to look. I have no idea to the other questions, but it seems that...

I can't find the link where I am supposed to post a new thread, but since this is totally related to what I am experiencing on my 2355, and the last post was at the time my problem began, I hope no one minds my tacking on. It has 1,600 hours since new. I began experiencing hydraulic problems...

OR you could store the fluid in a vessel with a bottom drain and valve so you could drain it off before reusing the fluid. Kind of like the liquid separator your wife uses in the kitchen.

if they have a dip tube, tthat won't work. you'd have to remove the valve. Isn't it threaded?

On my larger JD orchard tractor (which doesn't have auto PTO engagement) I usually connect to the output shaft after centering and connecting lower draft arms. Two-fold reasons: have more room to get in there before the top link is hooked, and I can hold the driveline more level to improve...

Amen to that, also, unless using a GN for an RV/camper where the forward portion can house a bedroom etc., you will loose deck space per overall length vs. a conventional hitch trailer. Back-up maneuverability with GN is nearly unbelievable, but they will cheat much more on turns when going...

If its the top portion that is removable, definately to lower overall height on tall equipment. Some hedge rowers (used in nut orchards) are very tall, and use these.

Agreed, I think Massey used to be the largest manufacturer on the globe (or one of).

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