Recent content by rfc143

Thanks for all the help. Price for that fitting is half of what Kubota wants for it. If I can just take the o-ring off the old fitting and put it against that washer, I think I'm good to go.

Thanks very much! The only question I have is that the photos of that fitting show a strange washer holding the O ring. My fitting has just the washer backing up the oring. Think that matters?

The plot thickens. See photo. The O-ring side does screw into SAE -10 O-Ring port...but it's loose in the threads. The other side is straight thread. I screwed on a -6 FPS female pipe connector and it goes on and tightens against the taper/chamfer. The threads/inch is identical with a NPTF and...

It’s not jic. It’s a pipe swivel on the hose. I’ll take the fitting off and photograph it with the dimensions.

It’s a straight pipe thread. Close to 3/8, but inside has a female chamfer and the male is on the hose fitting.

Ya, but the closest is 5/8, which has a major thread diameter of .902. Argh. I can't imagine Kubota makes up their own standard.

Would it make sense that the side with the O-ring is an ISO Metric M22x1.5 and on the other end a -6 BSPP? M22 male threads are .87 (I measured .88. It's definitely a straight thread, and the "cone" is female inside the elbow and Male on the hose, similar to a standard US "pipe" hose fitting.

This elbow fitting is on the boom cylinder of a Kubota KX040-4. At first glance one might think it's -10 ORB to -6 JIC...But it's not. The hose fitting looks very similar to a NPTF, but the thread diameter is not the same. Most of the hose ends look like they attach to strait thread pipe...

I'll go with you on C: I've identified a variable flow adjustor that can adjust the down speed. It's the wrong symbol for an adjustable valve, but let's not quibble. As for D: there is no manual ball valve anywhere to be found. Perhaps some models have it; some don't? Good idea though.

This is from a brand new single acting hydraulic pump, probably Chinese. Documentation really sucks. It works perfectly; i.e. up button turns on pump; down button opens another valve to lower the dump body. But the circuit makes no sense to me. I can see the pump, and check valve. I believe A is...

There are two holes on the top of the tank; both threaded. I’ll run the system for a while as I’d like to see if the piston is leaking,then plumb the hose to one of the holes. The other one is a breather, so there’s no danger of pressurizing the tank.

Have a dump truck with a double acting cylinder. Replacing the pump with a new single acting pump. There’s no place to attach the rod end hose. Can I just take the hose off and leave it open to atmosphere?

Ongoing saga: I unbolted the filter assembly and looked at the right angle fitting at the rear of the assembly. It was swiveling, but I can’t understand why they would put a swivel fitting there, and no place else on the assembly. I think it might be a press fit that came loose I pushed it in to...

Well, unfortunately that did not solve the problem. I can’t figure out where the fuel is leaking now it could be the hose coming into the filter from the tank or the hose that goes to the engine. I’m clamping off each individually and put in white paper towels, beneath to see if I can figure out...

I replaced the big O-ring to no avail, but looking at the exploded filter bowl assembly carefully, I see that there is a spring at the bottom of the bowl that holds the fuel filter up against the top O-ring. That's missing! The dealer says that if the top o-ring is not seated it could also leak...