Recent content by tmeric7

The Woodmaxx 8800 is made in USA. Some units are made in China, but that one that the OP is considering is a USA model. https://woodmaxx.com/product/woodmaxx-mx-8800/ I've had an 8800 for several years and I think it's great. My tractor is 29hp and I need to slow down the infeed with really...

Looking at that diagram... there are actually only 4 terminals going to the tractor. Two terminals are connected together (ACC and RUN) See the table to the left. So the NAPA switch would work if you use the ACC position on the NAPA switch for your glow plugs.

The recommended NAP replacement is KS6600, which I and others have used. Here is a link to a useful thread: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/for-those-with-starting-problem.88444/page-2 And a pic of mine installed:

Gotcha, and that makes sense after reading your other thread. So there are multiple ways you could go, it seems. I like my added button because, apparently like your stock system, you can run the plugs however long you think is needed before trying to start. With the timer, you get the factory...

I'm speaking from experience with my TC29DA. I think it's safe to assume the answers will apply for you. I know that other models operate like I'm about to describe. 1. Yes, the GP should energize for a certain amount of time when the key switch is turned to ON. My model is 10 seconds. I think...

I'll confirm that the instructions on my model, TC29DA, are also to read the stick without screwing in. My change instructions are to use hydraulic fluid.

I'm not sure if that 20 seconds is with the key in RUN or START, or both, but if you just turn to RUN and leave it, it should go for the 4-10 seconds then stop. Whenever the key is turned to START, the glow plugs will energize for however long the key is in that position.

There is no temperature measurement. The glow plugs run on a timer then go off after 4 - 10 seconds, depending on your tractor model. At that point, yes, the light goes out. If yours does not, that probably indicates that there is a bad ground in that circuit.

Update from my post last night: That voltage reading in the OFF position dropped more (it's a really slow drain) to about 4.2V. Battery voltage post-to-post was now 12.84V. My current thought is that your 0.5V drain is a red herring. With a good battery and good cables connected to starter and...

I completely understand this feeling... "I'm pretty sure I know the way it should be, but..." That's a good diagnostic mentality! I have a TC29DA and I tried to recreate your test. I keep the battery on a tender, but removed it first. After that, and throughout, the battery read 12.86V from...

If anyone finds this thread wondering about replacing the key switch, I followed the recommendation of another thread to use NAPA KS6600 and it seemed to be good quality. Happy with it so far!

When mine went over 600 hours about a year ago, I looked around these forums to see what folks were saying, and I basically got the message TractorTech shared. I personally decided that there was no urgency. Maybe some day I'll get interested and do the valves.

I believe that the timer/relay has one function: to energize the glow plugs. But it does this under two circumstances: (1) When the key is turned to the "run" position for a certain amount of time (about 5 - 10 seconds, depending on tractor model), and (2) whenever the key is turned to start...

Here is the portion of the wiring diagram for my TC29DA that covers the glow plug circuit and some pages from the service manual that contain the glow plugs, fuses, and relays. It's not the exact same tractor, but what you are looking at must be the same or really close: the glow plug circuit...

I have two Armstrong clicker type torque wrenches (different ranges) that I'm very happy with. Armstrong is very good quality without moving into the most expensive price range (but isn't cheap either). The only downside for me is that the scales are in in-lb (even the bigger one), so I do a lot...