Can I Use Fuse Box Spare for Work Light Power?????

[dcole]

I have a brand new New Holland Boomer 35 HST. Putting a work light on rear with wire there for it. Want to mount 2 - 55W on rops. Can I use the open slot in my 15A SPARE fuse. There are 2 wire push in slots in each fuse #. The 15A SPARE has a small ga. tan wire in one slot, the other is open. Couldn't I get power from there. Run it to a switch and then to the 2 - 55W. It would be easier then running all the way from the battery. Plus it would already be fused. I assume the lights would not be controlled by the ignition key, just my installed switch? Thanks for your help.

 

[jinman]

I don't see any reason why you couldn't do that, but many of these tractors already have a powered connector to hook up a light. I'm not sure about the new LS Boomers, but it's worth checking to see if it is there.

 

[Down South]

I would think it depends where that tan wire goes to?
Is it hot, switched or does it go to some accessory you didn't get?

It depends on the size of that wire, can it handle 10-15 amps? Lights should pull 10A.

What kind / size charging system do you have? Can it handle 10 extra amps at idle, low speed or even high speed?

DS

 

[jedjoe]

Ditto what Jinman said, but also want you to think carefully about how you mount the lights to the ROPS. Is it a foldable ROPS, and if so, how will that effect your lights if you have to fold it down? Also, DON'T make any holes in the ROPS for installing the lights, as I've heard that can effect the strength of the ROPS during an actual rollover. You don't want that sucker to fail!

I've attached a photo of how I added extra lights on my 2004 TC35 without using the ROPS at all. My machine had two welded tongues on the ROPS frame, and I was able to bolt the metal bar directly to it. I was also able to attach a tool box to the metal bar, conveniently placed right behind my seat.

I have my two 55w lights pointing forward (they illuminate my work area around the tractor well), but they can swivel in any direction. Also, I made a bracket for my rear work light (a previous job) by just bending one of those 2x4 metal slide brackets and drilling some holes.

 

[jinman]

I have my two 55w lights pointing forward (they illuminate my work area around the tractor well), but they can swivel in any direction. Also, I made a bracket for my rear work light (a previous job) by just bending one of those 2x4 metal slide brackets and drilling some holes.

Wow Joe! Nice job!

 

[5picker]

Ditto what Jinman said, but also want you to think carefully about how you mount the lights to the ROPS. Is it a foldable ROPS, and if so, how will that effect your lights if you have to fold it down? Also, DON'T make any holes in the ROPS for installing the lights, as I've heard that can effect the strength of the ROPS during an actual rollover. You don't want that sucker to fail!

That is a nice job Joe and your advice on not drilling holes in the ROPS is spot on.

Here's a few photos of my recently re-worked, now rotatable light brackets.
Because I can't get my machine in and out of my 4 bay garage (where I park it for the winter) without folding down the ROPS, when it came to attaching lighting, I wanted something where I could easily swing the lights out for coverage (mainly snow blowing) and tuck back in when necessary for clearance. (mowing, woods work etc.)

My LED lights mount to the ROPS using U shaped brackets I fabricated and then have the ability to swing the arm in or out.

I also wanted something to work around another project I am in the middle of... converting a $79 golf cart enclosure into a soft side tractor cab.

I plan to create separate posts in more detail on both of these projects.

Tim

 

[jedjoe]

Nice Job!!!!

 

[djradz]

I have a brand new New Holland Boomer 35 HST. Putting a work light on rear with wire there for it. Want to mount 2 - 55W on rops. Can I use the open slot in my 15A SPARE fuse. There are 2 wire push in slots in each fuse #. The 15A SPARE has a small ga. tan wire in one slot, the other is open. Couldn't I get power from there. Run it to a switch and then to the 2 - 55W. It would be easier then running all the way from the battery. Plus it would already be fused. I assume the lights would not be controlled by the ignition key, just my installed switch? Thanks for your help.

If you are going to be working in a wooded area, or the edge of fields, I would recommend against mounting anything on the ROPS as it is sure to get knocked, bent or broken at some point. Inside the ROPS is much less likely, but still not ideal.

As Jim notes, there may be a connector already wired and unused, somewhere around the rear seat or fender area.

 

[mackendw]

Anyone find that illusive plug/connector? I have the same unit and bought an LED light which has a 2 wire (male/female round plug) connector.

Appreciate any help/advice.

thx.
W. MacKenzie

 

[airbiscuit]

If your open slot doesn't work, you could use one of these fuse tap/adaptors,

Amazon.com: ATM Add-A-Circuit KIT. This KIT includes ATM Add A Fuse (same function as Bussmann BP/HHH) and 4 Bussmann ATM fuses (ATM-2, ATM-5 and ATM-10, ATM-15): Automotive

I agree that you might want to look to see if there is an available plug under the seat.

Finally, you might want to consider LED lights instead of halogen.