Small hole in oil pan fix? To braze or not to braze?

[mbmrang]

I need to fix a small hole in my oil pan. I think it is only slightly larger than a pin hole but I would rather not leave it go. I was mowing hay the other day in a newly rented hay field and found a 1' tall stump about 20' from the fence and when the disc mower hit it, it sheared the blade bolt and sent the blade under the tractor. Caught a steel hydraulic line and my oil pan. The line has been ordered but I would like suggestions on fixing the oil pan. I really don't want to pay for a new pan since it is such a small hole. And it is right on the lower corner of the pan.

I have heard of some brazing oil pans, but I'm afraid I would cook the oil without taking it off the tractor. It looks like a several hour job just to get the pan off the tractor. I was thinking about just having the tractor running while brazing to keep the oil flowing throughout. Any thoughts on that plan?

Also thinking of using something like JB Weld for a patch until I have the time to take the pan off and braze it that way.

 

[k0ua]

If you want an opinion. I would say you are going to have to take the pan off no matter what method you are going to use to fix it. I assume the pan is steel? Not Aluminum?. So Brazing would work fine, after you take the pan off and thoroughly clean it. Or you could have it TIG welded, (which is what I would do) or you could Gas weld it, or you could JB weld it. But every one of those processes would require cleaning off the oil. How are you going to do anything when the oil is constantly contaminating the joint? Not to mention boiling oil in the crankcase and making gasses and pressure. Take the pan off and repair it. Let's see what other folks have to say, but that is my 2 cents worth.

James K0UA

 

[mbmrang]

The pan is steel and I am hoping I can JB Weld and it last long enough to get through hay season. If it holds long enough I will TIG it once I get it off the tractor. Thanks for your opinion.

 

[Gator6x4]

For a band aid repair I would try the following. Drain the oil from the tractor. Clean the area of the damage real well. Form a 3x3 cover patch. Now mix the JB Weld and cover the area real good. Place the cover patch over the JB. Let cure for several hours and then cover the outside of the patch and the area with JB Weld. Let cure for 24 hours. Return oil to engine and fire it up and monitor area for leakage the remainder of the hay season. You will still need to remove the oil pan and properly repair.

 

[k0ua]

The pan is steel and I am hoping I can JB Weld and it last long enough to get through hay season. If it holds long enough I will TIG it once I get it off the tractor. Thanks for your opinion.

Let us know how it works out, Maybe you could get a wad of JB up there, but I am still having trouble thinking how it is going to set with oil seeping out the hole.. Here is another idea, don't know if it would work, but here goes. Take a short sheet metal screw, and either find or make a rubber gasket to fit over it as a washer. Then drive the screw into the hole. The rubber washer should stop the leak, as long as there is enough metal to allow you to torque down the screw without stripping out. just an idea, I haven't done it, but it might get you by until you can fix it correctly.

James K0UA

 

[3930dave]

JB should get you through the season, providing you can clean the oil off - meaning the hole is up high on the pan, or you drain the oil first if lower.

Rgds, D.

 

[mj007]

...........Here is another idea, don't know if it would work, but here goes. Take a short sheet metal screw, and either find or make a rubber gasket to fit over it as a washer. Then drive the screw into the hole. The rubber washer should stop the leak, as long as there is enough metal to allow you to torque down the screw without stripping out. just an idea, I haven't done it, but it might get you by until you can fix it correctly.

James K0UA

What he said AND you can get neoprene washers at most hardware stores ....... get one and a fender washer, put the screw though both ...... if the spot on the oil pan where the hole is located is not a flat surface pre-form the fender washer to that contour. Oh, when you go for the permanent fix - brazing would hold fine BUT there will be a lot of heat input from the torch that could warp the pan, not too likely if you are careful but, myself, I would either use the MIG or TIG process - probably the MIG because you could have the job done before you got the TIG set up and ready to go. :2cents:

 

[farmeratheart]

I was going to offer James' idea, but he beat me to it!

"Let us know how it works out, Maybe you could get a wad of JB up there, but I am still having trouble thinking how it is going to set with oil seeping out the hole.. Here is another idea, don't know if it would work, but here goes. Take a short sheet metal screw, and either find or make a rubber gasket to fit over it as a washer. Then drive the screw into the hole. The rubber washer should stop the leak, as long as there is enough metal to allow you to torque down the screw without stripping out. just an idea, I haven't done it, but it might get you by until you can fix it correctly."

Years ago my Dad and I had a rear-tine tiller with a side-mount saddle bag style gas tank. Somehow it got a pin hole on the side about 2" from the bottom. We ran a small sheet metal screw into that hole with a plastic washer as a 'temporary' fix. Years later when he sold that tiller the screw was still there! An oil pan should have thicker metal for the screw's threads to 'bite'.

Good luck!

Frank

 

[crazyal]

Years ago when I was in much better shape I was out for a day of riding dirt bikes when the engine case hit a rock and cracked the case. Was able to put the bike on it's side, wipe the oil off, and used some JB to fix the leak. It worked great.

 

[Soundguy]

here's my sugestion.

get a epoxy repair stick for repairing gas tanks. most say that thaey will stick to gas and oil wet metal.

use carb spray and spray the joint and wipe down the immediate are till dry. have the stick balled and ready to go. put it on.

after hay season. pull the pan off and weld/solder-braze, etc. whatever.