JD 1020 - Input Shaft Seal Leak

[jjaaam]

Hello,

I have a 1967 JD 1020 (gas) that has developed a transmission/hydraulic fluid leak. It appears to be coming from where the clutch lever shaft enters the housing on the left side, right in front of where you sit. I took a video with my phone and sent it to a repairman (file is too large to post here) and he said it was an input shaft seal leak with an estimate of around $2000 to split and repair. I only paid $3500 for the tractor to begin with, so I'm hesitant to put that much money into it. He did suggest using a seal sweller to see if that would help. I know that kind of thing is definitely a bit of a hack, but I would like to try it first. Would anyone out there have a recommendation as to what would be the best to use? Something from Bars Leaks?

Thanks!

 

[Tx Jim]

Welcome to TBN
I can't give you any advice on seal repair in a can or bottle. If you have any mechanical ability I can give you advice on splitting tractor to R&R seal. If you have access to a concrete floor splitting a utility tractor of that size isn't very difficult.

 

[Kernopelli]

I agree with TX Jim, splitting that machine is a Saturday project if you have a good hard surface that will allow you to roll one of the tractor halves away from the other and you have basic tools and mechanical skills.

I have actually used Lucas Oil engine oil stop leak with success on a main seal in my old buick and a low pressure ( actually similar to your issue/no pressure trans seal) hydraulic fluid seal on a tractor. It takes a little time for it to take effect but it did actually work for me. About 200-300 miles on the car and maybe 5 hours of run time on the tractor. $10 bucks is not much to lose if you want to give it a try.

 

[jjaaam]

So sorry about the delayed response.

Yeah, I can turn a wrench, but splitting a tractor may be a bit above my pay grade. I think I’m going to try the stop-leak first and see how it goes.

Thanks!

 

[Zebrafive]

If oil engine or hydraulic is getting into the clutch housing, you need to get it fixed before a new clutch becomes part of the repair.
The age of this tractor, 55 years, makes me think any seal repair product you add to the oil will not work.

 

[jjaaam]

If oil engine or hydraulic is getting into the clutch housing, you need to get it fixed before a new clutch becomes part of the repair.
The age of this tractor, 55 years, makes me think any seal repair product you add to the oil will not work.

Well...that's depressing, LOL.

I guess it all comes back to a common question: it is worth putting over 50% of what I initially paid for it back into it? I paid $3500 for it just a few years ago. It has around 2600 hours on it; not crazy, but not that bad I don't think.

What would the general opinion be?

 

[Tx Jim]

Spitting JD utility tractors of that era doesn't require technicians(mechanics) to have a lot of knowledge. Do you have any local shade tree mechanics? I personally would rather own your 1020 that some of the late model electronically gizmo controlled tractors

 

[jjaaam]

Spitting JD utility tractors of that era doesn't require technicians(mechanics) to have a lot of knowledge. Do you have any local shade tree mechanics? I personally would rather own your 1020 that some of the late model electronically gizmo controlled tractors

No, unfortunately I don't. Truthfully I could do some research and probably tackle it myself, but there's the fear of never doing it before. To someone green like myself, it seems like a daunting task but, as you say, maybe it isn't. Also, that diagnosis of the input shaft seal leaking was from a tractor mechanic watching a short video I made. Who's to say that is 100% correct, or that there isn't more wrong?

I could do it in my garage but all I have is basic hand tools. Nothing to support the tractor halves once split.

 

[loggin]

No, unfortunately I don't. Truthfully I could do some research and probably tackle it myself, but there's the fear of never doing it before. To someone green like myself, it seems like a daunting task but, as you say, maybe it isn't. Also, that diagnosis of the input shaft seal leaking was from a tractor mechanic watching a short video I made. Who's to say that is 100% correct, or that there isn't more wrong?

I could do it in my garage but all I have is basic hand tools. Nothing to support the tractor halves once split.

I am willing to bet that any tractor in that size range that you pay $3,500 on will need some type of work. Anything newer will cost more and anything with electronics on it will be more complicated and therefore more of a pain to deal with. If you like the tractor and think it will serve your needs and parts are still available then it might be better to keep it.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[Tx Jim]

No, unfortunately I don't. Truthfully I could do some research and probably tackle it myself, but there's the fear of never doing it before. To someone green like myself, it seems like a daunting task but, as you say, maybe it isn't. Also, that diagnosis of the input shaft seal leaking was from a tractor mechanic watching a short video I made. Who's to say that is 100% correct, or that there isn't more wrong?

I could do it in my garage but all I have is basic hand tools. Nothing to support the tractor halves once split.

Stands could be fabricated from pieces of 3 or 4'' angle iron with 2 holes to accomodate bolting to each side of flywheel housing. Then a roll away floor jack could be utilized to support back half. Worse thing that could be leaking is engine rear seal. Which oil trans or engine is needing topped off?