Chains or caps?

   / Chains or caps? #11  
my dad made a set of chains with some old big ring skidder chains it was unreal for traction and he had a separate set for the winter…
 
   / Chains or caps? #12  
Yes R - the existing chains do not sit "proud" enough of the lugs to provide much extra grip. The current arrangement has a single run right around each tire, with chains running laterally per picture. It is a poor solution

I purchased 50 shackles online today and will get chain when next in town. Would have preferred studded chain that seems to be commonly available in the US but none of the suppliers herein OZ have it so I'll have to make do with conventional D link chain. I should be able to create a ladder pattern a bit like those in the left-hand picture

In the picture on the right, is there a reason the tires are mounted backwards? There really doesn't seem to be much tread so it may not make any difference at all.
 
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   / Chains or caps? #13  
Are the tires loaded? Cause that tiny little lightweight backblade is about like a fly on a horses back.
 
   / Chains or caps? #15  
Reasonably familiar with the Oberon Area & the mix of challenging country - the problem is 2WD tractor & your areas regular rainfall, colder Autum/Winter soil temperature combined with soils ability to hold deep moisture - unlikely to be resolved with changing tyres/chains.
All depends on type of tractor work & as a Ford 6000 brings reasonable $s, you may want conside changing to a similar value/age/condition lower HP 4WD (e.g. c.70HP Fiat, Same, Ford, IH) or if predominately logging/clearing & have mechanical skills/slightly higher budget say c.$20K perhaps earthmoving Gear (e.g. Small dozer, traxcavator or cheaper 4wD loader)
 
   / Chains or caps?
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#16  
In the picture on the right, is there a reason the tires are mounted backwards? There really doesn't seem to be much tread so it may not make any difference at all.
Yes the tires are mounted backwards. This was to maximise the grip. You are right - the difference was minimal. The main reason for the change was to widen the wheel track in this fairly steep country.
 
   / Chains or caps?
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#17  
Are the tires loaded? Cause that tiny little lightweight backblade is about like a fly on a horses back.
No the tires are not loaded. Re back blade, I bought it many years before acquiring this tractor and while you are probaby right about it being small, it more than does the job of maintaing the dozed/graded track so I am not about to change it
 
   / Chains or caps?
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#18  
Reasonably familiar with the Oberon Area & the mix of challenging country - the problem is 2WD tractor & your areas regular rainfall, colder Autum/Winter soil temperature combined with soils ability to hold deep moisture - unlikely to be resolved with changing tyres/chains.
All depends on type of tractor work & as a Ford 6000 brings reasonable $s, you may want conside changing to a similar value/age/condition lower HP 4WD (e.g. c.70HP Fiat, Same, Ford, IH) or if predominately logging/clearing & have mechanical skills/slightly higher budget say c.$20K perhaps earthmoving Gear (e.g. Small dozer, traxcavator or cheaper 4wD loader)
G'Day - you are certainly right about this being challenging country. After all the rain this year, the ground is very soft and it does not take much to get stuck. I have just made a couple of studded recovery ramps out of some 150 X 70 treated pine and will probably strap them to the cab roof so they are handy for future dramas.

The chain upgrades will not stop getting bogged, but they will at least provide better traction, especially on the main access track. Once I recover the tractor from where it is stuck in the bush, I'll push in a reasonable track to make access to firewood easier with the Pajero and trailer
 

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   / Chains or caps? #19  
Try some shade cloth as a cheap & readily portable recovery mat - 2 sections each about 2 metres wide x 4-5metres long.
 
   / Chains or caps? #20  
Not the first time I have addressed this issue but the problem does not go away.

I have a Ford 6000 Diesel (6 cylinder selctashift) in reasonably good nick but the rear tires are about 50% worn and are fitted with chains. On the dozed/graded gravel road it is reasonably OK sometimes I need to go into the fairly steep, rough bush where there is a mix of stone. fallel branches and earth. There reversing is near impossible and if a wheel gets bogged in the soft stuff, getting it out is not easy.

At my advanced age and due to the tractor spending 10 months in the shed, I just cannot justify the $3 grand (or more) for new rear tires The current chains are not adequate to provide sufficient traction for the off-road conditions noted above. The options are therefore:

a) Replace or add to the existing chains - probably in an H pattern so they do not sink between the treads - see picture. This would be fairly cheap fix with 8mm chain and shackles and no need to remove the wheels

b) Cross bars - The ones I made some time ago - (in the picture) were not successful. The alternative is to fabricate steel "caps" to fit right over the treads and be held in place with screws. I have looked for old pallet uprights that might be suitable but it will not be an esy job and no guarantee of success.

c) add studs to each tread - moderate cost and doable.

Any practical suggestions welcome
I look up the price of 13.6/38 firestone tractor tires and I get a prices of 400 - 900 usd.....I might try looking again at whats available
 
 
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