3pt Top Link chain

[LouNY]

All., thank you! keep the comments coming. About 80% of my mowing is done going backwards. I live in a holler and to keep the roads and ditches clean its usually a case of backing the mower over the edge back and forth all the way, thank God for HST. I know that is not the intended design of a rottery cutter. But i dont have a flat peice of ground on this place except where i have made it flat. How do you thing using a chain would work out mowing backwards.

Much of my cutting is in that manner also.
I do have a hydraulic top link and a flexible link on my brush hog.
The flex link allows the mower to raise up in the rear while backing into banks and such,
then the hydraulic top link allows me the ability to lower the rear of the mower when backing over the bank and clearing lower then the tractor.

 

[bcs001]

Since no one has mention chain use on a box blade I'll point out that it works as long as you don't use the rippers which are mounted at the front and WILL tip the back of the attachment up. For just scraping it works well and follows the moderate ground humps and dips fairly well.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

For just scraping it works well and follows the moderate ground humps and dips fairly well.

I don't want my box blade to follow dips and humps.

I use it to get rid of them.

 

[bcs001]

For the most part I would agree but my experience has been when moving forward, the front tires will drive over dips and humps causing the blade to either lift or dig in as it passes. The chain can help with some of that initial leveling before finishing with the solid top link.

Any others with their experiences to improve land flattening with a box blade would be helpful.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

I just finished grading (after removing up to eight inches of dirt) in three spots, maybe a 1/4 acre in total. Or about 20 loads in my 16' dump trailer.

Started with ripping using the 8' box blade, then mostly used the smaller box blade I've made towable, with the long tongue. It's been shown in several photos on this site.

Once everything was near smooth and level I used the towable 10' box blade, which heavy and has a very long tongue.

Next I'll disc it, and hope the irrigation water can flow like it used to before the prairie built the surface up over the decades.

Could I have done it with only the 8' box blade? Yes, and I could've left the hydraulic top link in float at first, mimicking a chain, but it would've taken much longer and not been as smooth. Not with me running the tractor anyway.

 

[jimglassford]

Assuming the OP is using a Kubota L3901, I don't believe that model has draft control. I don't understand why every utility tractor does not have draft control which makes using a back blade or a box blade easier to control. As for leveling out the highs and lows. I move the tractor forward to fill the box blade then I push that pile in reverse with the cutting edge even with the bottom of the wheels. The result is a flat ground. This is how a dozer creates flat ground. As for the chain top link, NO.