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Unless the other pin is easily removed I would be inclined to just take measurements and see if your tractor place can find a match for you. Be aware that the pin is probably hardened so that buying a pin without the hole won't do. Oops!! Did not see the above post till after I hit "send".

Today I managed to mow those weeds I mentioned yesterday!! It was indeed the electric clutch causing problems. One of the differences between the 18hp Kohler and the 16hp Briggs and Stratton is the output shaft size: Kohler - 1.125", B&S - 1". To accommodate the difference in diameters I...

That fuse blowing short was the leads coming off the coils reversed. One of those is grounded to the engine and the way I had it connected shorted the fuse. Easy fix but still not sure its charging. On to the next issue: when the mower deck is engaged the engine stalls. I suspect something in...

Looks like I'm not done with the engine swap just yet!! Something is not right with the hookup to the charging coils. I looked everywhere on the tractor the 18hp Briggs came out of for a regulator but was unable to locate it so I used the one from the Kohler. When I have that wired in and...

Many thanks go out to those who offered the advice I requested when I opened this thread. Though I initially expected to be able to repair and re-install the Kohler, it soon became obvious that if an appropriate replacement engine could be found I would be time and money ahead going that route...

This project has shifted focus from repair to replace with the acquisition of a lightly used 16hp Briggs and Stratton. I have been taking my time and carefully fitting attachments from the the Kohler to the Briggs: the PTO electric clutch on the output end of the crankshaft, and the...

I followed through with the previous post's agenda and found the #1 side as healthy as could be expected for the hours on it. Now here's a "brain bomb" I had yesterday! See what you folks think: I showed the pix of the damage and broken bits to a friend who is pretty small engine savvy and...

Next time I have some shop time I'll open up the other cylinder and see if any clues present themselves. The sudden loss of power while one cylinder could not possibly be contributing any bothers me. If I see more trouble in there it will mean a total rebuild is needed - a possible game...

I totally agree, but the reality is that at first it had the power to run the mower and cut some serious grass before suddenly losing that capability. I don't think that mystery will be solved any time soon, if ever. I would much rather replace the engine than repair and reinstall this one...

I got a few quick minutes of shop time in just now and I am happy to report that after some back flushing and shots of compressed air, we have oil at the opening for the connecting rod. I'll still have to try to find out what other damage is hiding in the crankcase. Still looking for a way to...

Here's a plan to determine whether the problem started with lubrication deficit. Fill the crankcase with enough oil for the pump to pick it up. Spin the crankshaft with a drill for a few seconds and watch for oil to emerge from the opening in the crankshaft clearly visible in the picture. If...

oldnslo and Randy T thanks for your replies. The rust damage is doubtless from long time or frequent water finding its way in. And yes, I suspect a problem with lubrication to that portion of the crankshaft. All issues taken together, I have to wonder if I'd be better off looking for an...

I've had some help from one of my daughters (visiting from Vancouver BC). Let's see if I can post pictures: First pic shows what I saw when the head was removed. Second shows damaged cylinder skirt. Third shows damage to piston. Fourth shows some deposit of metal from the con-rod. Last one shows...

If this engine is anything like the ones I have: B&S, Onan, Kohler, the ignition module delivers a spark to both cylinders simultaneously. This means that the larger the gap on the sparkers, the more stress in the electronics of the module. The gap of 0.030 becomes 0.060 and at 3600 RPM that...

Thank you RandyT for that tip, and WranglerX for the link. I will look for that access panel. The manual suggests the engine block is designed to split and I really don't want to go that route. It occurs to me that removing the cylinder barrel on the side with the broken con-rod should reveal...

Thank you for that, oldnslo, the engine model I'm working on is the horizontal one. It is mounted in such a way that the "front" of the engine faces the back and has a PTO attachment for driving the Hydro-static trans and hydraulics. The "back" end faces the front an has an electric clutch...

I've put in an hour or two when time and energy allowed and have the engine out and on a temporary table. I am looking for the access to the crankshaft and connecting rods so I can see what it will take to put things right again. In the absence of a repair manual I'll be looking to the...

It should and I tried it but it just hung there so I did it with the starter and that worked. I got the deck out of the way but the lift frame needs to go also. Took the hood and grill out of the way as well and that will have to do for today. It's hot out there, 31-32C (that's 89-90F) and I'm...

"No shortcuts" means I'll have to start by removing the mower deck. I wish I had lowered it before shutting off the engine the last time. Now with the one side opened up I'm not sure about starting it up even for a few seconds. I'll try just cranking it with the starter while holding the valve...

A generous neighbour of ours dropped off an old but well maintained CC1811 with mower attachment. He told me it had sat for ten years or so but started right up when he put gas in it and checked oil levels. He knew we needed a spare machine to mow our numerous acres of grass and said we could...

How about paying a visit to an ag dealer who may just be able to supply you with someone's cast off booms and nozzles from a crop sprayer. Free advice and worth every nickle (no pennies in Canada anymore) :unsure:

Trying to be helpful when I can. I remember how you and others who followed my build offered great advice that doubtless saved me dollars AND pulled hair (tapping the top of my head where there is none).:rolleyes:

Is it feasible to turn the tank around so the "bump-out" tucks under the seat of the Terratrac a little? That way the return hose coming off the filter would route downward and theoretically the seats could then be back to back. Just a starting point for discussion when the time comes.:unsure:

Hmm... I'm trying to visualize the placement of the operator's perch. Is this to be a standing model? If so, it could simplify movement between operator's perch of the terratrac and the hoe whenever the digging is done where it stands and advancement is next.

Are you building this in a "quick-attach" style for easy removal when the hoe would e in the way for the other purposes you have for the Terratrac?

Good to see you back and fabricating again!! I'm looking forward to seeing the trenches and pits you can dig when it's done! My build was finally completed a few years ago and then had to undergo some revisions: change engines, change pump drive from belt drive (slippage problems), etc. I'm...

I don't see anyone suggesting an old method of stabilizing the roadbed - corduroy. Research the building of the Alaka Highway and adapt the concept. Requires lots of freshly cut trees, If those are not available locally this would not be practical.

Thanks shooterdon, that gives me an idea for mine. What I need is a safe step instead of using the front wheel which can be slippery. The deck is a no-no as it swings from chain.

Thank you for posing the question. I'll be watching this thread for ideas because I'm there with you!! Pushing 80 and feeling it. :rolleyes:

Looks like replacement handle because the image on it is upside down. Just my 2cents + tx.

Like Smokeydog commented above, I've not seen that before. Looks like it is not very aggressive either. One thing to note about reversing the ag tires as shown. I get it that the purpose is to allow clearance. Way back in the day growing up on the farm, we had a Ford 9N that we used for...

If I can "teach" it to float that's probably what I'll do. I think first I'll have to see how I can increase the lowered and raised range. Right now the range is very narrow. Once I fix that I'll have to modify it so it floats. THEN I can add the gauge wheels. Loads of interesting stuff to...

It looks like the tread is more open than regular turfs, am I right? I've thought of removing the chains but because the tread pattern is so tight it would just spin the moment I got the "nose" of the machine into a snowdrift. It would take significantly more weight at the back to make up for...

Thanks for looking, folks. I did some more searching via Google and found some videos made by guys with similar tractors and similar issues. The outcomes look like they could solve my getting stuck problem for not too much cash outlay. One of them even adapted a set of smowmobile skis for...

Our frequent and heavy snow falls have revealed a fairly serious flaw in the design of my snow clearing equipment. It's a Toro Workhorse 416h with a front mounted two stage blower. The problem I'm having is how quickly I get stuck with it. It has turf tires with chains and weights and over...

Take that motor apart. With zero ohms resistance over the poles there is no juice getting through. Find the reason for that and try it out on the bench before putting it back. You may also want to make sure the hydraulic pump is not seized after sitting for five years. It shouldn't be but...

Around here something similar is done mostly alongside east-west roads to serve as snow fencing as mentioned a few posts back. It's usually the municipal equipment doing this and three or more parallel passes the width of the blade apart. It helps reduce the need for plowing the road or highway

I agree that the sickle mower is old school and out of date but it's what I have and all I need. I only bale a couple or three hundred bales total per year otherwise I would be looking to upgrade. I don[t even use the bales for feed as I don't have livestock. I use them to cover cisterns and...

I'm going by the way my mower, a six foot sickle bar performs behind my 550 Oliver. If I'm cutting a healthy stand of Brohm-Alfalfa I can't go faster than second gear. If I'm using the Brush Cutter and cutting a thinner stand of same, I'm lucky to use third gear. This was a decent little unit...

8 - 10 mph? Quickest way I've heard of to plug your mower up solid!!!

Good possibility some windings overheated when you tried to run it when frozen. Those tiny motors have even tinier (delicate) wire in the windings and do not tolerate sitting and humming for long.:mad: I'll make sure to keep it in mind when I modify my blower with a copy of your setup.

What you have going on sounds like our winter last year. I only got to use the blower twice all winter and one of those times it was mostly to test out the mods I'd done on it. This winter I have lost count of the times I've been on it. And it's because I have used it quite a lot that I find...

x2! If there are any leaks and the tractor has not moved in some time, those leaks should show ample evidence where the tractor is standing.

The one I have is also slow. I tried it for various tasks and found it to be too slow to be of use at any of them. I'm hoping it won't matter as much on the deflector. Is there even any actuator that isn't slow?

Valid point! This is when its time to sit down with the instruction sheet that comes with the VOM and bone up on what it has to tell you to get you started. I can't count the times I have bought a tool I've not owned before and read ALL the instructions. Not the "manly thing to do" but ask me...

OOps!! should have said throw the breaker off first. Bad, BAD,BAD!!

I'm toying with the idea of copying your solution for adjusting the top chute from the operators seat. Does your actuator still freeze up after you blow out your drive? I use an electric window motor from a parts vehicle I had handy to swing the chute to either side - made necessary when I...

Got a VOM? Join the wires at the plug or just plug in a lamp or similar and then go to your breaker panel, throw the breaker off, and check for continuity. If that checks out, the problem likely to be found at the breaker end. If no continuity, the likely culprit is at the receptacle end...

Hmm,,, maybe wire manufacturers could add a delectable dose of warfarin to the recipe?

Earlier this week we had overnights of -32-33F. That's -36 celsius (I'm no fan of metric, believe me!!). I'm situated 50 miles north of the 49th parallel. We got those temps right after a significant dump of snow. White Christmas - Bah - Humbug! On the plus side though, this will help us...

Could it still be wet inside? My guess would be that once moisture gets in there it takes quite some time to dry out. Maybe remove it, take it inside and lay it on a hot air register in the house till the next time you need to blow snow. Just my 2 cents. 😏

you probably already checked the fluid level in the HST but if you have not, it's the first thing I'd do. I bought a Toro HST with blower attachment almost two years ago and when I got it home was when I discovered the rear wheel axles leaking oil. Once I replaced the seals and topped up the...

11011 - welcome aboard!!:) TBN ers have your back! Always good to see!

I had a 40 inch front mount single stage blower belt driven from the garden tractor engine (16hp) and because it would continually ride up on hard ridges under the new-fallen snow the belt slackened, the auger would immediately lose power and plug up. ARRRGGG!! So I rigged a 13hp engine to run...

What I have found helpful when putting chains on my garden tractors is release most of the pressure before cinching the chains as tight as possible. then refill to recommended pressure. The added pressure will round the tire some more and help remedy the sideways creep. Also, although the...

Welding with coat hangers works great but stay away from the paint coated kind. That creates an ash that interferes with the bonding of the weld. Use only the varnished hangers. That seems to act as a flux. Just my 2 cents!!

Same over here!! I wait for them to go on sale - usually for about 130$ Canadian. When I was loading the T&C that time though I doubt it would have handled it. Thats why I'm thinking of trying an impact tool next time I'm loading something heavy.

If I'm guessing right, your drill is a 3/8th incher. They typically lack the torque of a 1/2 inch. I've been watching this thread with great interest. Last summer I had occasion to use my trailer to haul home my Town & Country mini-van because the starter wouldn't engage (corroded terminal as...

When the smoke is hovering under the roof without exiting the two foot(?) hole I have to wonder just how hot is it anymore and is it really an issue for a fan, be it a box fan or a ceiling fan. Before rejecting those two options, NCAlaskan, I suggest hanging a wireless temperature sensor from...

OP disappeared after posting his question/problem! Probably figured something out himself and moved on. 😏

I considered suggesting the turbine vent but in my experience, they're noisy and from the pic provided, the reliability of a consistent breeze is doubtful. The chimney option would probably evoke chuckles and references to the "Tin-man from Oz".

I know you said you don't like the idea, but how about a ceiling fan like you see for living rooms and other areas. They are quiet, reversible, and come with light fixtures that you could "play" with for interesting effects.

Interesting and could have possibilities!! I'm wondering if an aversion to castor oil could be across species of rodents, specifically mice of all types. Its a bit late in the season but I will look into trying it both indoors and outdoors around my home. Will it bother the cats so they stay...

oldnslo, the reason I'm considering the 600 PSI rated valve is because #1 - that rating is well below what it will actually stand. #2 - the brass construction of said valve may well be stronger than the cast street elbows I've been using on the same cylinders. If that is the case then I should...

I've done some more reading up on the topic of spool valve leakage and as mentioned by one of the commenters on this thread, it can be quite a common occurrence. The solution suggested is a check valve and to fully solve the issues I'm having I'll need four of them at a cost of $55.00 each...

Here's an update regarding the "sleuthing" I've done. The cylinders are not the problem.... So over to the next suspect - the spool valves. I tried to open the valve that operates the boom to see if there was evidence of any kind of junk making trouble. I followed the instructions in the...

I retracted the boom, supported it, removed the hoses and installed plugs. It has been holding position for almost two hours with no drift. That one at least points to the scroll valve. I'm not looking forward to that job! But before I tackle the boom valve I'll check out the stabilizers...

I checked the catalogue from Princess Auto and discovered that the POC valve I could use costs 55 bucks plus taxes and I might need four or more of them. Also, if the cylinders have leaking seals, the check valves would be useless until that was remedied first. So, first things first, I...

I will check the boom cylinder first. I hope to do this by raising the boom and supporting it while removing the hoses and plugging the ports with screw-in plugs. Then remove support and see if it still extends as before. The stabilizers I'll test in a similar way and see if they return like...

The pilot operated checks are something I have not heard of till now. Are they a solution for the boom cylinder as well and where can I find them?

The drifting is occurring in the direction the resistance is pushing. For example: the stablizers keep dropping the wheels back on the ground. The boom cylinder drops the dipper and bucket till they drag along while I'm driving between the shed and dig site. those are the most annoying...

I'm pulling this thread back up to get some feedback and ideas. First the positives: after changing out the tired and inconvenient vertical shaft engine the Sears/Craftsman GT18 that the backhoe is built on with a horizontal shaft 13hp as described in the thread titled "From vertical to...

Boy do I ever know what you mean!! I'm still reaping the "rewards" as I start using the backhoe for jobs that have been on the waiting list. The tough conditions for digging because of the lack of any moisture in our clay makes any weakness in my "engineering" sure to show up. In a way that...

Richard001, thanks for that tip. I decided to start with that and immediately found a loose wire. It came out of a small metal cube shaped device and another loose wire matching the code stripe of the first wire lead to the ignition switch box. Score!!! There was a second wire leading from...

Thanks, I'm hoping to get back digging once the rain we got overnight dries a little. I believe it does have the oil level shut - off and checked for that. The oil level is right up where it could run out if the tractor was tilted a little. If I knew where to find that sensor I could check...

Here are pix of the repairs I made to the bucket swiveler. Sorry, I neglected to take any pix of the damage before I straightened things out but it took a fair bit of beating on it to bring things back in line. The first one shows what it looked like before welding in the bracing. The rest...

I put in maybe an hour of digging this afternoon. I jokingly told my wife I would dig till I broke something. I should """NEVER""" say that out loud. I had just finished fixing something I broke for the second time. A street elbow on the cylinder for the boom was jamming up against the back...

Here are some pix of the trenching I've done so far. Note the lumpy chunks of clay and sod. No sign of moisture anywhere in the trench. The tractor pix show some of the mods I made to get it all working. I was able to move the drive belt and all the clutch hardware above the engine platform...

Thanks Vigo327! The build itself was a long haul with an extended gap while I waited for the funds to finish it. I finally decided to forge ahead to the finish line. I plan to remove the restrictors in the bucket, dipper, and boom temporarily to see if they are limiting the digging power. I...

It took me eleven days of a few hours here and there to complete the conversion and try it out!! The difference in the performance is like night and day. The engine actually has to grunt when I give it work. And I made it work today. The ground I'm digging is drought dry and hard and this...

Okay, here's where the project stands so far: old engine out, horizontal shaft engine standing approximately where it will get bolted down. Next will be removing the hydraulic pump and all the mounting bits described in the above post. I'll not toss them too far; they are sure to be useful...

Good question and I did it by mounting the drive shaft for the pump through two pillow blocks. The ten inch pulley at one end and a lovejoy set at the pump end. The bracket holding the pillow blocks also holds the pump. Lots of careful fabricating involved but that part of my build turned out...

OK!! That is the kind of drive setup I have on my bandsaw. The belt shredded and I've not been able to locate a new one for it. Good thing my SIL lives next door and he's got a much better saw I can borrow when needed. I can see that working in my situation but since I have the engine to...

My curiosity is piqued; what's a "gear pulley"?

The only belt after the engine swap will be the one to the trans axle which is not a problem. The engine in there now is vertically oriented and the one going in is horizontally oriented which leaves plenty of room to mount the pump directly onto the output shaft. The biggest issues will be...

And if going that route was an option I would make sure I was using a matched pair!! My walk-behind snow blower is a good example of the importance of double belts being matched. I bought a set that supposedly matched; they did not and I had to toss them and buy another set. Grrr....

You are right about side load and my pump will not allow it. My present mount takes that into account so it is in good shape for mounting directly. I'll have to open it up and change the rotation back to factory before I do that!! The biggest problem I see to double belt the present setup is...

Thank you for those tips! At present, the pump is mounted vertically like the engine and driven by belt from a five inch B pulley to a ten inch B pulley. It has been suggested that switching to a double belt setup would help and I'm sure it would. The issues involved make that impractical...

At the outset of my mini-backhoe build I knew that at some point the tired old 18hp Briggs would have to go. I had hoped to get at least ten or more hours of digging in first. That was not to be as outlined in the thread I had going during the build "It's time, either get started or..." So...

Well, though I declared the project completed, the belt slippage issue has not gone away. Consequently, I'm opening the thread again to pump TBNers for opinions/advice/criticism!! Due to drought conditions, the clay soil I need to dig is like concrete. As a result, as soon as I try, the...

I realize this will not work for you if you don't have a supply of the right wire and a lathe but when I need something like a spring, I go to my supply of galvanized telephone wire that my Dad salvaged back in the day when the local exchange was burying the cables to get around the constant...

Yes, it does to me!! Good to see you won this round.:giggle:.

This should not make much of a mess. Start by releasing the line pressure by moving your valves back and forth till all movement of your boom stops. Catch any drips with whatever you have handy. From the picture you provide the biggest issue I can see is access. Looks tight in there. You...

Its the nearby flower beds, gardens and fruit trees that are susceptible to damage from herbicide, especially since this is the first time in many years that we are using any chemical controls. The other, and possibly most important concern is personal. Though I'm surrounded by farmland, I...

I put everything on hold because of the unrelenting drought. Even the weeds stopped growing making it impractical to start a fight with them. I found a length of 1/2" copper pipe and decided to use it instead of the garden hose. 1/16th" holes drilled 1/2" apart actually resulted in a faster...

I'm not an hydraulics authority by any means but have you tried reversing the away and back function to determine if the problem is in the spool valve? If nothing changes the cylinder may have issues. Just my 2 cents!!

Thank you Cougsfan, Sberry, thebmrust, DL Meisen, and dieselscout80 for all that food for thought! I fully realize I could be over thinking the drift concerns I have. It exists due to my personal history with farm chemicals although I have been able to stay away from them for most of my adult...

Maybe for touchup duties that would work but for the rest of the yard that we mow, about 4 acres, give or take, I'll need to use something with more coverage.🙃

Thank you Cougsfan; that is information I didn't have till now and will help me get it right. Its almost sixty years since I left the farm where I grew up and the only words I recognize from those times are "ester and amine". The handling of chemicals has totally evolved since those times and...

What I need to protect from drift is flower beds near and around the house and gardens. There are two houses and two gardens on this property as well as fruit trees where drift can do damage. I don't have the name of the product I'm going to use so I don't know which "flavour" I'll be...

If my "re-invention of the wheel" proves to be a failure I will have to follow your good advice. In the meantime I get to play with my tools and exercise my "greymatter" in the pursuit of new ways to achieve the goals I seek! There! I said it and if folks think I'm crazy, they're probably right!

Just looked up Johnson Grass and it's not anything like Crab Grass. The thing about Crab G is that it does not depend on seed to propagate. Rhizomes below ground result in grass-like blades popping up all over the place around the host plant. Pull up the plant and leave a small bit of the...

Workinonit, you've pointed out the reason I am trying a gravity fed drip system first. The weeds I wish to target (dandelions and thistles, etc.) are not all standing higher than the grass. Some are, but not all of them. For that reason, I will be using a herbicide which targets broadleaf...

You've put a lot of gear on the back of that little tractor!! Is the front end jumping up when you start out or hit bumps? Anyway, it looks like you are way ahead of me with your implement. I'm hoping to keep mine simple as possible. I'll begin with gravity transfer with the supply at about...

I have a Toro 416H and when I bought it I discovered I needed axle seals. I don't remember where I got them but I'm pretty sure it was locally from a bearing merchant (Winnipeg, MB). If you need the trans details showing all the parts, I found what I needed at Jack's Small Engine. Good luck!

Another idea: I've done some more research and read about roller application using carpet covered rollers. I have scraps of carpet I can use and wetting that with garden hose fastened to the carpet and drilled with multiple holes along its length could work as well as what I had considered at...

The repairs/modifications I listed in my previous post are all done and I just found a few minutes to try it out. The dipper cylinder is a 12" and I could use a couple more inches there but for now it will have to do. The swing cylinder seems to be behaving so that's good too. The clutch for...

CoyPatton, thank you for that! The design I have in mind is gravity fed and either wicking directly out of the bar or drip fed from the the bar to the mat positioned directly below it via small holes drilled into that bar. The holes could be spaced some 3/4" or so apart and 1/16th" in diameter...

I saw the String Wing during my search on TBN for something like I have in mind. The Sponge Wipers did not come up during my search but are equally relevant to my project. Thank you for posting them for me! One of the issues I will need to resolve when/if I build one of these applicators is...

Where I live the winds rarely quiet down enough to safely apply herbicide near flower beds or fruit trees. With the dry conditions we are experiencing the last few summers the grass goes dormant and deep rooted vegetation - read dandelions, thistle, quackgrass keep right on growing, and...

I finally took time out from gardening and yard care, etc, and tried out the "digger". It became evident quickly that I have design flaws to correct. The swing cylinder broke loose; it is supposed to remain stationary while a link does the swing. Next, the dipper does not lift high enough to...

The new pump is in and after fabricating a mounting plate out of 1/4" steel plate I bolted it all together, connected the input and output hoses and was able to successfully test the operation of the cylinders. With the restrictors in place they all moved well without the previous issues so...

The new pump is installed after reversing the rotation and making room for the larger dimensions. Not as challenging as I expected once I got into it. I did use the restrictors I made up and it all seems to work the way I had hoped. I have yet to try digging with it but that will have to wait...

I have been asked on a number of occasions what the specs for the pump are and have not been able to give an answer to that question - till now. Turns out that answer also explains what I have going on with the wonky operation of the hydraulics. The output measures a whopping 1.4 ci per...

I picked up a new pump yesterday and took a look at the challenges I face installing it where I had the original pump. That is going to take some planning!! 🤨 I'll have to cut away the mounting brackets and weld others into place because this pump, although smaller displacement, is physically...

That 3.4 GPM may well be all I can handle while I learn the operation of a backhoe. Once you start practicing on a new-to-you machine, reality gets real close and sometimes real ugly if you're not careful. So I hope to go slow but strong as I gain proficiency.:cool:

Shaunshep, welcome to TBN and thank you for that suggestion. I may be restricting some more of the connections before this project is done. I brazed a couple and on others took bolts and drilled the centers out to 1/16th", then tapped the fitting to be restricted just far enough to spin the...

From what you are suggesting my best move will be two sizes up at .488 ci and 8 GPM @ 4000 RPM. I'll see how that performs at the present speed setup of approximately 1700 pump RPM. Thanks for this 😌.

I have done an approximate measure of the displacement of the pump I have. In ml it averages 23 over several tries. That converts to 1.4 cubic inch according to the conversion scale on Google (where else!!??). That appears to be 25 - 28% more than the one you are running. No wonder it was...

Thanks ptsg, that calculator helps a great deal. If I installed the pump I have in mind without changing anything else, such as pulley sizes and engine speed, I could expect 1.8 GPM of flow with around 2500+ psi. As for direct mount of the pump, that would be a "project" all its own!! The...

Wow!! That rock looks like it could weigh as much or more than your hoe! Around here folks use them for lawn ornaments, the rock, I mean! The pump I have in mind is .244 cubic inch (3.99cc) and can be run at 600 to 4000 rpm. At high engine speed I get about 1700 rpm to the pump which is lots...

I have isolated the difficulties I'm having with the hydraulics and it is that the pump is delivering a much higher GPM than I need and when I try to dig, the engine stalls. It's an 18 HP Briggs and Stratton and it should be more than enough engine for the task. I picked up a flow control...

Now that I am back with the five inch drive to ten inch driven pulleys I still had to add serious tension on the idler to prevent slippage. Now, when I give it work, the engine stalls unless I have the throttle wide open. That engine should not have a problem operating the machine; it's a two...

Looks like I'm back to what I had working before. The problem with using the extra pulleys and belts along with all the other stuff already down there makes it almost impossible to mount the idler pulleys needed to keep the belts extra tight. So back to driving the pump with one belt from the...

I sleuthed out the reason the hydraulics were not working - the second scenario has it!!:( The idler pulley doesn't help either because the two inch pulley driving the ten inch does not have enough sheave area gripping the belt to prevent slippage. So, I have replaced it with a three inch...

I have had time to do some calm meditating on what could be going on with the hydraulics and I have come up with two scenarios which I need to check out before I spend money on a new pump. The first scenario has to do with air entering the system ahead of the pump. Not impossible but because I...

Thanks aczlan for that information. If I settle on that pump I'll have to plumb the extra outputs into an already busy return to tank circuit. Is that going to put more pressure in there or is there sufficient loss occurring in the scroll valves to make it a non-issue? I'm just not sure I...

I don't have one that is specifically for testing hydraulics but I'm thinking an old gauge off a cutting torch, either oxygen or acetylene side might serve. In the meantime, I have the pump off. I can turn it by hand but it feels like there is a "load" even though the ports are open and there...

Still not looking good for the pump I'm using off the bale loader/stacker. Even after plumbing it correctly, there seems to be inadequate pressure. So now I have to see if there is any logical way to fit the Toro pump into the space the present one is in. The biggest problem I'm seeing is...

The only ports that I can find with ID are on the opposite end from the shaft. The half inch port is stamped TK and the three eighth inch port is stamped PR. For now, I'm holding off with the "heart transplant" till I have tested the results of re-plumbing the tank return from the four-spool...

Thanks aczlan, I suspected the larger ports would be inputs but the side with three ports are all the same I thought but yes, the one on the end opposite the shaft could be larger. I'll look again for a port marked as Tank.

I have a thread going in the hydraulics forum and one of the TBN'ers cautioned me about my routing of the line to tank from the four-spool vale set into one of the tank ports of my secondary valves served by a power-beyond from the primary valves. This could block the flow from the primary...

I am having a problem that I originally suspected to be a worn out pump scavenged from an old bale loader/stacker. Thinking it over and remembering this comment about possible backpressure and the issue I am having with the movement of the boom as well as the dipper and bucket to a lesser...

I dug out the pump I mentioned in Plan A. IMG 2722 and 2723 show the ports on opposite sides of the pump. All three shown in 2722 deliver a detectable push on a finger placed over the opening while turning the shaft clockwise. The ports on the opposite side are larger and I don't feel either...

Bad news:mad:. The pump which I salvaged from an old bale loader/stacker has barely enough pressure to move the dipper and bucket when the load is light. The load for the boom is never light and consequently it can't lift the weight of the dipper and bucket. Grrrr!! Plan A: I have another...

Here it is over half past May and after a few Spring like days we've got summer! I slowed down the drive to the pump, maybe a bit too much as the boom has become sluggish. The dipper and bucket move ok but I have yet to try with a working load. I can't do that till the boom issue is resolved...

When I was a much younger man and "strong like ox" I handled barrels of oil which I delivered to places with no loading dock. I carried a couple of used up car tires which I placed on the ground where the barrel would land. Tipped the barrel on its side and rolled it to the back of the box...

I've revisited the possibility of slowing the pump some more and I think it can be done. I've posed the same issues on my build site (see post#12) as I have done here and it was suggested I use a similar setup to the one I slowed down one of my drillpresses. I'll give that a try as well as the...

I took a hard look under the tractor and I think it can be done. I have the shaft material and probably the pulleys too but if I opt for a 2" / 6" combination I can run the engine a bit faster and hopefully prevent the stalling that is happening now. So 5" on the tractor to a 6" turning a 2"...

That is what I'll try if I take that route. What I hope to do first is fashion homemade restrictors for the individual cylinders. The location of the pump drive is under the tractor because the engine is a vertical shaft type. Not really a fun place to work :rolleyes:.

Thank you to lennyzx11 and ptsg for your helpful advice!! I was considering the flow control valve concept and I also realized it would never do to restrict the flow of the pump without a release provision as lennzx11 cautioned me. As for mating the flow rates and valve capacities, I'll have to...

The pulley off the engine is a five inch that originally powered the mower deck on this garden tractor and if I'm not mistaken it and the drive pulley for the tranny are one unit. The driven pulley is ten inch and that is already pretty big. I'll have to look under the tractor tomorrow and see...

I got that fitting installed so all the hoses are in place. I found some minor leaks and fixed them easily enough. The thing that had me worried was would that old pump off the bale loader still pump. Well, it pumps alright!! The bale loader was a tractor towed machine so the pump was PTO...

Since I last posted to this thread, I have installed and tested the hoses to all the cylinders. There were a few leaks which I have taken care of. One of the potential problems I was concerned about was whether the hydraulic pump would still be functional as it was a salvage item from an old...

It's over three weeks since I posted to this thread and in that time I have made some progress. The engine starts and runs since figuring out the scrambled terminals on the new ignition switch - totally different from the one I took out. 🤨 I have all but one of the hoses hooked up. That last...

This project has reached the point where a lot of little things need to be addressed. The engine had not been running for some ten years so its no surprise it was reluctant to just start and run as if that kind of down time was without consequences. First, the reason I parked it all those years...

I hope you do. That's how I found my way back on here after several years absence.

Reminds me of how I abused the single cylinder bucket dump on one of my FEL's. I was lucky, tho'. I straightened it to almost perfect by placing a block of wood strategically and extending the cylinder again to force the rod straight and just enough beyond so it was good when it sprung back on...

I must apologize for not providing more information. This backhoe build is documented on the Build it yourself forum here: It's time; either get started or..... But to answer the question, the backhoe is built on the back of a Craftsman/Sears GT18 garden tractor. so it is self propelled. The...

I wondered about that too but I'll try it first and if that is a problem I can make that change without much hassle because that area is easily accessible. Thanks for the heads-up.

Thanks ptsg, I was hoping I could get this right. The BM30 and BM 40 are manufactured in Italy so they could be more common in your market than here. I'm a S&PC (scrounger and proud cheapskate) so saving on hoses and fittings works for me!!;)

Hmm.... still trying to figure out how to navigate the recent upgrade of TBN. I'll try my best to explain the drawing: The hydraulic fluid is sent from the pump to P1of the BM40 and P2 has a plug. From there the A and B ports are plumbed to the indicated cylinders. At T1 the fluid return is...

I'm sorry folks, that picture did not work. I'm going to have to work on getting a better one.:eek: Try clicking on the one on the right.

I recently resumed work on the Mini Backhoe I began building nearly ten years ago😒. To quote what has been said on these pages a number of times, "Life got in the way" and I had to set it aside for a while. Now that I have the time, I'm back at it and the hydraulic aspect of it is what's on...

The weather began to cooperate recently and I have been able make progress. Since the next part of the project will be mostly hydraulics I will open a thread on that forum. I'm hoping that way to avoid making goofy mistakes. I'll call it "Hydraulics 101 on my Mini Backhoe build".

In order for your blade to work on standing bamboo I'm guessing you would need it to be open rather than enclosed like a regular mower blade. That would resemble an angle grinder raised on steroids!! I have seen ditch clearing machines that consisted of tracked excavator type equipment with...

It says made in Italy. Do a search based on that and see what shows up.

After seven years of abuse, the yellow beast has rebelled! It may or may not be because of the abuse but I can not steer it. It has factory power meaning it has twin rams and the pump is pulley driven from a dedicated belt. I adjusted the tension on that belt and checked the fluid and the...

I recently scrapped an old bale loader the previous owner left behind and as I was about to load the the main carriage the idea of instead using it to mount a 3pth backblade to popped into my mind. There are no longer any wheels on this frame. I used one axle stub to repair a broken spindle on...

I'm looking for advice!:listen: A snowblower will be on auction in a few days and I took some measurements of my tractor to see if the path it cuts is wide enough. The machine will clear 74" while the wheels of my Oliver are spread to 81". If I succeed in the bidding, I will need to fabricate...

I have a project well underway to create what I'll calling my "Hotrod Snowthrower"! I've installed new bearings at the ends of the auger where there used to be bushings. Those were hoplessly worn into oval shapes. I have to wonder how the previous owner could endure the obvious clatter and...

I posed this question in Built it forum where I have been posting the progress on my mini back hoe. No-one has come forward with any advice and I'm needing some to keep safe.:confused: Here's the question: Is it possible to plumb a 4-spool, 2-spool, and single spool - all of them open center...

I think I am ready to restart or resume this thread - it has been rather a long time since I did any work on this machine.:ashamed: Like someone in another post once wrote "Life got in the way!" I have been putting in an hour or three here and there for the past month or so and I am moving on...

Given the innovative bent of virtually every TBNer, I have no doubt this has already been done. But being the indolent sort when it comes to doing searches I'm hoping someone knows exactly where to look and is kind enough to show me the way. I'm getting up in years and walking behind a snow...

I don't expect anyone has never been frustrated while trying to level an uneven surface such as a driveway using a back blade on the 3PTH. I've been thinking about and planning to build this implement ever since my first time using the back blade. Well, a few weeks ago I got started and I'm up...

OK. First off: I bought the Roto Tiller attachment for cheap, knowing the engine did not run. So what happened to cause that condition DID NOT HAPPEN UNDER MY WATCH.:( What the seller neglected to tell me was that the engine could not run. I found that out when I got the head off and...

I was abusing my poor old Oliver today and it bit me back:(:mad:. The left front wheel knuckle has been broken and welded before and now it broke again. I'm starting this thread on the off chance that you folks can help me broaden my search for a replacement part. Did Oliver use proprietary...

I have an Oliver 550 with hydraulic steering. This was a conversion done before I acquired it and it would seem that the conversion was done this way because the steering box wore out or otherwise became unusable. The pump driving the system right now is an automotive power-steering pump...

Here goes!! I'm getting started. Here are some pictures. I wanted to start the mounting platform for the pivot and control valves, etc, but since I don't have the right material yet, I'm having a go at the boom. I'm using a reciprocating saw to make the cuts and all went well for a little...

Hi folks: I decided to join today when I came across a thread about building a back hoe for a garden tractor. I am gearing up to do a similar project and hope to glean lots of useful tips from others who are looking on. I'm building this machine on the back of a Craftsman GT 18. It's an old...