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Sorry I didn't see your post until now. This is the dolly I built. Design was heavily influenced by what I had on hand, plus a good deal on the casters. Works great!

Congratulations! Do you have it on a dolly? I made one for mine and it's made connecting it much faster and easier. It's easier to move it to its storage location, too.

How is a breaker bar different from a pipe on the wrench?

WHY DID YOU TAKE IT TO THE DEALER IN THE FIRST PLACE?

OK, so it looks like I'm going to have to go with a tandem axle. Figure an 1,800 lb tractor plus a 60" mower deck plus loaded tires and it's just too much weight. The good news is, I can probably find a steel tandem axle trailer for less than an aluminum single axle. Thanks to all who responded.

I think you've got a good point. And I'm remembering now that the tires are loaded. I don't think it's gonna work.

I wish I could find a trailer with a 5,000 lb. axle. They all seem to be 3,500, giving the trailers a little over 2,000 lb capacity.

I understand what you're saying. I'm not trying to be cheap, just small and light, hence the aluminum trailer.

No. I'm sure that'd be too much.

The mower deck would fit. It's a 5' mower. A little more with the grass deflector, but that folds up. I was referring to the ramps that come attached to these trailers - preferably the two-section type. The one shown in the attached image would be ideal.

I have a New Holland Boomer 24. I need a trailer to transport it once in a while. Long trips would be 10 miles for service with no attachments. Short trips with mower would be less than 5 miles. I have many other non-tractor uses for the trailer, so I'd like to keep it as small and light as...

The dealer is into selling big tractors that cost more than your house. Go with something from a smaller dealer (so you actually matter) or from HD or Lowe's - you may not matter to them, but at least you'll get a better deal.

I keep thinking of an old S-10 4x4 pickup. Even if you had to sink a couple thousand into it, you'd be money ahead of a cheap side by side. Just my 2 cents.

I really wanted to comment as soon as I saw this post, but I made sure to read the whole thread all the way through first. I understand why you're building this the way your are. You're a good welder and have access to free materials. Makes sense. I won't argue with your design. Others more...

I could see where that might be an issue. I think the FEL would balance it out, if necessary. Thanks for pointing that out.

Most of the paths are 2-tracks, so I can get around them with the mower on, I just have to watch for high spots between the tire tracks. There are other places I'd LIKE to open up that I don't think I could get through with the mower.

Thanks for the recommendation. I saw that EA has a rotary cutter, but I'll look at it more closely. I have almost 80 acres that's mostly wooded with paths through it and a few clearing. I like to keep the paths mowed down and want to cut down the berry bushes that have started to take over...

Thank you for the list! I will keep all those things in mind. As for King Kutter, I won't dispute their value. Just looks like it's going to be hard to find one. The Blain's 40 miles away only has 5' and up. Good thing I'm not in a hurry.

What features would you look for or avoid as far as going for a heavier duty unit? One unit I saw was made from 10 GA steel and weighed nearly 200 lbs. more than another, but does that necessarily mean it's tougher?

I've got a Boomer 24 and am looking to buy a 4' rotary cutter for it. Anyone have suggestions for a good value? I just saw Tractor Supply has added the Bad Boy brand. It looks decent, but I'm not sure what to look for.

I have a Boomer 24 and I mow a little under an acre with it. The 60" mower deck is almost too big for the mowing I do. You will need a much larger tractor for what you need to do. For the price of a belly mower, you could get a zero turn that would do a better job faster.

Something similar happened with my Boomer 24 this fall. It quit on me out in the woods. Futzed with every pedal, handle and fuse I could find. Dealer wound up finding the HST interlock switch mount had broken so the switch wouldn't make. From what they told me it was difficult to even get to...

Agreed. For reference for anyone who cares, this is a picture mid-development. I took it back to the muffler shop and had them bend it one more time to get the straight part of the pipe vertical. I'd like to attach the new muffler to the frame down where that label is in the picture.

I wound up taking the broken muffler to a muffler shop and had them make a U pipe that eliminates the muffler altogether. It's a little loud and sounds very "agricultural". So now I'm looking at finding a small muffler, mounting it on the frame and connecting to it with flex pipe. Does anyone...

I just had the second muffler break on my 2014 Boomer 24. I was going to replace it, but the bracket that hold the end of the exhaust pipe broke as well, so it's just going to keep happening. I'm working through the idea of getting a U-shaped tube made and welded to the pipe that's still...

I've got two threaded holes on the bracket behind the seat on my Boomer 24. Does anyone know what size thread the holes are? They're in the perfect location for me to mount something, I just need the right size bolts.

I don't do near the wood-cutting some of you here do. We just have a small wood stove that we use to supplement our propane heat - usually only on weekends. Most of what I cut is standing dead wood, and I usually go for stuff that's small enough to not require splitting. I had been reading...

I keep looking for posts from anyone owning a Boomer 24. Either I'm the only one who owns one, or nobody has any problems with them so they don't post anything. Anyway, I've had mine since this spring. I got it with just the FEL, no mower deck. I've been been very happy with it - moved a lot...