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Unfortunately the tractor "ain't that simple". I don't think concepts count for much here.

And all this does what?

I don't think I've ever used a torque wrench on pressure plate bolts so I won't speak to what they should or shouldn't be torqued to. I use a long handled 3/8 ratchet and tighten them a little at a time until it "feels" right. Have never broken one and don't remember having one come loose later.

The planetary? I don't think so. I think once the transmission is split away from the rear housing you will see the bearing, snap rings ETC involved, but I think the front cover comes off, the small snap ring comes off the shaft and then the shaft can be driven back through the gear and the rear...

Seems to me if you had algae in the system you would see some of it with all the lines and such that you've had apart. Something in the tank (or the fuel filter inlet fitting) is likely yes, but algae? When I've found that it's been some black, slimy, sort of stuff. Hard to miss.

If you keep things greased and pins lubed, the occasional adjustment could get you by for a long time.

If you have an eight speed transmission this is a piece of cake. If it's a six speed, different story. I'd say the distance between the the transmission and rear housing needs to at least a foot unless you are really good with your hands. I would need to have room to stand (or kneel) between the...

On the 1100 you would do it the old fashioned way. The tractor wasn't designed for a loader (or any other hydraulic attachments actually) so you would just interrupt the line from the hydraulic pump going to the lift housing. Make what you need to run a hose into a loader valve (one with power...

Fluid and filters are not your problem. If it bleeds down fast enough to see it, the valve isn't holding. Probably doesn't have any load checks. You need better valves.

Brand new mower and the tightwad bastards couldn't include a few ram stops?

Valid point, but most batwings use single acting cylinders which will quickly show leaking piston seals.

First thought would be the "kit" you purchased is slightly low on quality. In theory the valve SHOULD hold pressure in the cylinder(s) when the spool is in neutral. That said, no one I know of uses a batwing expecting the tractor remote valve to hold it up indefinitely. They all use ram stops on...

If the shoe fits....

The clutch is indeed a "normal wear and tear part" so you're right on track. Just be aware that if the clutch is replaced it won't last seventeen years. I can't explain exactly why, but it just works that way. A new tractor with a dry clutch can go for years and even thousands of hours on the...

Not sure but I don't think they carry ready made hoses. As far as them making custom hoses, I would think that's an individual local store type of thing.

TSC website shows that size hose for $18. Local store has only one in stock. If you need two, you're out of luck.

The first thing they'll do is check (and adjust) pedal free play. You say it has none. Well, I say it did back when it was working right. If you're lucky that adjustment MIGHT get you a little more use out of it.

$152. Does that sound right? Not really, but it seems some places charge whatever they want for making hoses these days. I've been charged $80 for a 1/2" hose 18 inches long (with metric hose ends). I've used TSC for ready-mades on occasion when budget for the project justified it. Biggest...

Seems there are a few too many ex spurts on board already.

Okay friend, but it sounds more like a slightly different bs term to me.

Use a pick and pry the inner race out? Then get all the balls out? And I take it you've had success with this method before?

We saw at the beginning of all this something about borrowing gauges. So far, no report on how that worked out. Just a lot of "it might be this, it might be that, do this, do that." A/C servicing works best with gauges involved rather than guesswork.

It's a button clutch, they don't always smell the way woven linings do. And yes, it's slipping. Any free play in the pedal?

I know I'm dense, but your logic here escapes me. Do I have this right? Engine has a miss. (mostly cylinder #1) You checked valve adjustment and it was not off by much? You hear a popping sound from the #1 intake manifold off. This is running or just cranking it over? Either way, that sound more...

There's more to servicing A/C systems than the "nuts and bolts" then adding freon. Why does the compressor need to be replaced?

Are you at all familiar with the John Deere thermister principle? Measurements of the coils really aren't necessary if there's no signal getting to pull coil, as is most always the problem in these cases. Testing said pull coil with a 12v jumper wire will quickly confirm whether it works or not...

Waste of time. Neutral switch might affect the start circuit, but not the shut off solenoid.

Sure sounds like the dreaded thermister type of thing. Do a search for John Deere thermister problem and see what you find. Should be a number items out there concerning it.

Point noted.

Everybody has their own ideas about what's "the best" option. You will no doubt get a few in short order. No offense intended, but has anyone else besides yourself looked at the system to see what more improvements might be made? Just wondering. Lots of us have worked on those systems and I...

Then you're pretty much stuck with what you have.

As I see it, he's on the right track. The problem will indeed go away. On someone's trailer.

If that's what's required he's better off mounting a sun shade on his zero turn and peddling this pile.

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/3236/referrer/navigation/pgId/441219 Just ASSUMING here, this is what you have? Maybe the "base gasket" is #14? That's typically not a common leak. Not much reason for that gasket to fail. I'd look closer at O ring #15. Much more likely.

Good luck with the head gasket.

Well we know a bit more now than we did at the beginning of all this. I came in thinking the tractor (probably) handled this load without much problem at some point back when, but then things had changed. I agree that a 10 ft mower is probably pushing the tractor's limits to begin with. I see...

Okay, so what have you used this tractor for in the past? Your current problem is something that just now showed up? Is this 10 ft mower something you just brought into the game? The over heating didn't take place before this mower came on the scene? We're still missing a lot of details here and...

I'm not a pilot. I wouldn't know where to start describing mechanical problems concerning aircraft. However, I am a mechanic. Have worked on all sorts of tractors and farm related machinery for over fifty years now, and I know a little about what works and what doesn't. You describe...

I have a slightly different take. While I won't disagree with anything stated so far, one part of your original post has yet to be discussed. After fifteen minutes of mowing it will bog down and die. That's not a head gasket related problem. Cracked heads, damaged gaskets, and such can cause...

No, the pulley won't move. It's bolted to the crankshaft. The pump drive adapter will separate from the pulley. Or at least it SHOULD.

Using a diverter valve on the typical Massey lift pump will give you either external supply OR three point operation. You don't get both at the same time. Chances are you didn't hook anything up wrong. You just need to figure out what works and get used to using it.

Do yourself a favor here. Tractors come in many configurations and the electrics can be quite different from one version to another. Since what you describe is most likely electrical in nature, knowing which version tractor you have will make a difference in the answers and replies you receive...

Put your money on the steering cylinder piston seal. Orbitrol type steering valves do have problems on occasion but not usually like that.

Shouldn't be all that complicated. (except maybe for putting the deck back under there by yourself) Once the deck is out stand and prop it up so you can work both sides. Remove the blade from one end, the pulley from the other end, and the spindle assembly is held on by four bolts. The bolt...

Kits come with pistons and matching chambers. One size fits all.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144826577567?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-166974-028196-7&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=144826577567&targetid=2274564709393&device=c&mktype=pla_with_promotion&googleloc=9014290&poi=&campaignid=22709434219&mkgroupid=188229445664&rlsatarget=pla-2274564709393&abcId=1036219...

Photos aren't too sharp (neither is my eyesight) but I don't see what the pump is bolted to. It must have a support right? Looks like the drive hub is bolted to the crank pulley?

My advice. Return the pump, even if you have to pay the freight. You don't want a pump with pressure control. Just order a rebuild kit and keep your existing pump. You might want to replace the relief valve as well. I've seen a few reliefs stick shut and bust the lift cylinders right off the...

Why would you expect bleed screws on a hydraulic pump or (most likely a suction) filter? Bleed screws usually would be fuel system related.

On the earlier tractors for sure there is a strainer in the tank outlet. Some are part of the fitting, some are totally separate depending on age, serial numbers ETC. Its not hard to remove, just a "drain the tank" project...

If it happens again you'll have to dig a little deeper. If there's crap in the tank and lines you get to deal with it. Did you open the water drain on the back of the tank to see what shows up down there? What was under the diaphragm? That's where most of the stuff collects.

No, you wouldn't pull the motor out. The screen is a brass mesh, about the size of the hose I.D. and about six inches long. I don't remember having much trouble getting it out once the hose was off. I do recall it was a hot sticky July afternoon and standing on my head dripping sweat while doing...

It's not an air leak. Anything you hear in the filler opening is more likely high pressure oil leaking off somewhere it shouldn't be (as in rockshaft control vale seals as mentioned). What you might try before diving into that. This will be a little easier. Take the rockshaft out of the picture...

There is no fuel pump. Only the primer pump, which CAN be a problem sometimes. It's the first place fuel goes after leaving the tank. I have found all sorts of stuff in them that can impede fuel flow. Try that first. Just unscrew the pump assembly, lift it off and look inside. you might be...

If it fails to steer in only one direction, you probably need to revisit the adjustment with two set screws. If there is enough play in all the pins, bushings, links, ETC (and there always is) it will bottom on one set screw or the other before the control valve spool actually moves. If you open...

Are the discs actually oily when you take them out or do you merely suspect a problem in that area? If so, you probably need new discs along with the seal. Once they start grabbing like that, cleaning usually doesn't get you very far.

The other wires. One is a ground wire (the relay coil needs a ground) and the other one (I assume) goes to an operator aggravation module/circuit. The type of thing that monitors seat switch, park brake, PTO, neutral switch type of thing. I'm not totally sure on all of that. I only know I've...

So what's the hold up?

The fact you replaced the control valve spool with an aftermarket part raises questions. Why did that need to happen? While adjustments are always needed (and often critical) you can narrow down the possibilities easily enough. Start by removing one of the clevis pins connecting the final link...

You really need a more accurate description of the problem. People have different ideas of the term "won't turn over". So the warning lights and gauges work? What happens when you turn the key to the start position?

I'm no authority on computer controlled tractors, but if it's a common sense fuel system, then what would a computer have done before anything was deleted/removed? If it seems to run right now with electronics disconnected you should be okay. Unless the transmission is electronic in some way, as...

I doubt it's the wheel coming loose on the shaft. More likely the shaft is slipping up the column and coming free of the steering valve below. There's no breakdown on the steering column so bushings, washers, snap rings, ETC apparently aren't available separately. It's either a complete column...

If you decide to try what I did, be aware there is a screen in the tank below the filler hose. I had to remove the hose from tank to get to it and pull it out. With that gone the tubing slid right down through the hose. I cut a couple of notches on the sides of the tubing close to the end so...

In fact, I put a pump on the Kubota engine I just installed on another machine. I never cared for Bobcat's idea of the primer bulb for the fuel system. I put the electric pump on the Deutz engine some years back. It just makes things so much easier.

Just tied it to the fuel shut off solenoid. Key is on, shut off solenoid is on, pump is on. Simple.

Well I don't know about "simplest things first" in all cases. We all do things in our own way I guess. I look things over first before taking oil samples. I find a simple pressure gauge plugged in somewhere can be good start. As for suction leaks, in this case the pumps are mounted on top of the...

It's not a tandem pump. It's two separate pumps on a tandem drive with a common suction. There is (probably) a mid mount loader valve (with pressure relief and power beyond) then remote valves behind that, with the three point last in line. At least that's what I see on most Kubota tractors of...

I'm not sure why you would suspect a suction leak as both pumps share a common suction and the steering/transmission pump seems to work without issue. Granted, actual details are sketchy here, but as I see it the complaint is lack of action from the hydraulic pump, not aerated fluid.

Any other ideas? Here's one. Does your fuel shut off solenoid have a single pink wire? If so then pull the instrument cluster out and look for some relays stuck down in that area. It's tight but you can determine which one has some pink wires in the harness connector. Pull that relay out of the...

You're just running in circles with what you're doing and wondering what to do next. What you need here is a flow meter, not a stethoscope. Who really cares what the pump sounds like, what is it actually doing? By all indications, the pump probably IS the problem. The only way to prove that one...

I went through the "fuel pickup" thing on an 863G not that long ago. I found it impossible to reach the fitting on top of the tank. My understanding is access is gained by removing the engine. You've got to be kidding me. We fought the problem for six months or so and it came back two or three...

I would lean towards a restriction of fuel exiting the tank. I think the old "compressed air into the supply hose" trick would be next on the list. See what that changes.

I think that's the connector for the fuel gauge.

CNH website shows multiple bucket cylinders for a 33lA, Which one do you have? https://www.mycnhstore.com/us/en/newhollandag/na/material-handling/loaders/nabk51loa022la/farm-loader/cn/AAF5724F-E6BE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6?categorySearch=true

It's NOT a power shuttle. No wires or electric signals involved.

Issues with the belt, pulleys, spacers, ETC not withstanding, some of the problem with a slipping, hard to keep tight enough belt could also be system related. Hot days mean higher system pressures, which adds to compressor (and drive belt) strain. Keeping the condenser as cool as possible will...

The "plate" is a shield to help protect the seal. It's a throw away item to be replaced once removed. Just poke a hole in it and pry it out. Also, don't try to pull the shaft out the bottom. It doesn't come out that way. If you were successful at that you would be looking for another gearbox.

I'm sorry, but we're still not on the same page. The condition of the PTO clutch has no bearing on the control valve. Doesn't matter how far the lever moves, how hard it is to move, or any of that. The valve merely sends oil (or doesn't) to the clutch pack. The two items have have no more in...

What do I think? I think you're way off base on all counts. Overloading the PTO (if you actually did that) would affect the life of the clutch pack first. It would have no effect on external levers or linkages. If you have something "frozen" lever wise, it's just rust/dirt contamination, seized...

Not that it matters, but the AD152 is not wet sleeved. They are all dry sleeved. No sense adding confusion to the mix.

Admittedly I know nothing about a TC55, but curiosity gets the better of me sometimes. 1) What shaft are you turning "in almost a complete circle" 2) What "PTO lever" is frozen? As I see it, the PTO is a hydraulic clutch pack. Oil flow to which is from a valve on top pf the transmission...

The starter has a ground wire? Can you elaborate a little on that?

https://www.mycnhstore.com/us/en/newhollandag/na/tractors/compact/naba17com0543cyl/3-cyl-compact-tractor-15-series/fuel-system/throttle-controls-hand-1320-1520-1620-whst-1715-1720/cn/BFD966CC-B8BF-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6/76EE724F-E6BE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6 I'm not exactly sure what your...

It's not really a return line in the strictest sense. It's actually a bleed line. Problem is it also lets air bleed in as well as bleed out. Close it off and see what happens. No harm done.

All that's true, but we still don't know what "won't hit a lick" amounts to. At this point I guess it could mean just about anything, but I'm assuming (there's that word again) it simply means the starter won't engage. If it's actually more than that we can revise our opinions.

OR You can do a little creative wiring and install your own version of a start relay. Using any, all, (or even none) of the existing safety devises to interrupt it if you have kids, grandkids, (or idiots) who have occasional access to it. Total cost, probably under twenty dollars.

https://www.mycnhstore.com/us/en/newhollandag/na/tractors/compact/naba17com003tc/4-cyl-compact-tractor-with-cab-north-america/engine-equipment/fuel-filter/cn/457BBCCF-B8BF-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6/8B0EAD4F-E6BE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6 Look at return line (item #14) on this diagram. If you have...

I can't disagree. The Massey GC is less. How long have you had it? I think at some point you will find it's not only less money, but also less tractor.

Am I seeing a pattern here? Today's New Holland and yesteryear's Ford are not the same animal.

I can't tell you where it is, and honestly I doubt it has one. It's a common rail system so the computer controls what the injectors deliver. Not much need for a shut off solenoid. As always, I could very well be wrong. I don't deal in common rails systems so experience is limited.

The Kubota is a better deal. A little more "out of pocket" to begin with, yes, but the price difference/savings will disappear quickly in frustration and aggravation with the New Holland in short order.

Once you've covered all the bases, filters, screens, lines, ETC and it still seems starved for fuel, it could be the lift pump. Often if I suspect that I will substitute an electric pump in its place. Just hang it on the hoses, hook up a couple jumper wires and try it out. See if it makes a...

At a loss? Classic case of bad battery cable and/or connection problems. Revisit all of them. Ground cable as well, both ends.

From what I see on various forums, it's not just warranty. Ignored support seems to be far more common than it should be.

Not enough incentive to live in California.

I think you're way overthinking this. The system is no doubt capable of 2000+ PSI on the pressure side (when the load requires it) so the return side (again, after the last valve) needs to move oil uphill a few feet if/when necessary to reach the reservoir that's not going to create a problem...

That's a confusing question, and why would you be concerned about it? I would expect to see zero AT the tank, but depending on a number of variables the pressure after the last control valve (but before any coolers or filters) would of course be slightly higher. 100 PSI? I rather doubt that. I...

https://www.messicks.com/catalogs/woods/1020-loader I guess this might be one option.

Now isn't that amazing?

Keep at it, you'll get there. For openers, your static pressure should closer to 75 - 80 PSI on a hot day. Your pressures indicate an overcharge condition. How much refrigerant did you put in? Just guessing I'd say a TN cab system will take just over two pounds. The high pressure will vary more...

This time of year that's every day.

Having never seen the cylinder you're working on I have no idea how it's made or how that joint comes apart. I only know the cylinder can't operate without a seal and wiper on both sides of a double ended shaft.

The 2120 is a better tractor overall (opinion sneaking in here) even though it's fifteen to twenty years older. Much simpler design, less electrical circuits, much easier to work on, and it has NO TYM connections. Parts availability? That's going to be an issue in both cases. The 4110 wasn't...

There has to be a seal on that end. On the Ford tractors that used steering cylinders similar to that the "stepped down area" as you put it, unscrews from the larger diameter barrel portion. The seal and wiper involved was accessed while it was apart. Your photo don't show the joint area in...

Nothing electrical unless it's a power shuttle. Your description of events kind of rules that out. There is one thing that comes to mind. On the mechanical shuttle tractors there have been a few issues where the roll pin securing the shuttle shift fork to it's respective shift rail has sheared...

Lots of ideas out there, some I agree with, some I don't. Personally, I think you're spot on with your assessments. New is NOT always better, regardless of what some people think. Yes, new comes with warranty, but so what? When NEW quits running or won't move, warranty isn't much help when even...

Suit yourself. You made the claim that there isn't enough travel to get the PTO clutch released and still have free play at the top of pedal travel. I'm saying adjusting the length of the rod won't alter that. You would need to either increase pedal travel overall, of shorten the distance...

So it no doubt has at least one remote valve on the back, totally separate from the loader valve. If you plug your gauge (or A gauge) into one of the couplers, hold that valve open, what does the gauge read? In theory, (mine at least) that's where you should have started. Typically, the loader...

At this point no one knows WHAT'S possible because no one knows what you have. Is this a dedicated loader valve that has the problem? Cable operated joystick type mounted under the cab? All we know is you have a gauge plumbed into a pressure line (somewhere) and it doesn't read much pressure...

I guess I'm just stupid, but I can't see where adjusting the rod is going to gain anything. If the pedal linkage design is wrong and the amount of pedal stroke is limited by pedal up and pedal down stops, then change THAT. The rod adjustment merely puts the clutch release lever in different spot...

ANYTHING aftermarket is a crapshoot. I'm surprised that YOU'RE surprised it didn't fit. Try another supplier. Might get one from a different part of China.

https://www.mycnhstore.com/us/en/caseih/na/tractors/agricultural/naaa01agr089under100hp/international-tractor/hydraulics/hydraulic-pump-and-control-valve-hydraulic-lift-attachment/cn/87C3B762-8FBF-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6/22CD6496-EFBE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6 That indicates only two transmission...

I'm not talking about automotive type systems, mainly the tractor systems. In the automotive world the sheer volume alone dictates that far more resources can be devoted to R&D, product support, and a much better trained and equipped work force. In the tractor world that simply doesn't exist.

Unfortunately, what took place "several years ago" may no longer apply. These days it seems all too many dealer shops have digressed to the point where little to nothing gets done in a timely, cost effective manner, and much of the hired help is sadly lacking in both attitude and aptitude. It...

No matter who builds the engine, there is no comparison between the old "common sense" fuel system and the (highly touted) common rail system. With one, when it fails, almost ANYONE can get get it going again before dark.. With the other, when it fails almost NOBODY can get it going again. With...

Explain how you tried to "engage the starter manually". If you did that correctly and it still won't turn over, your problem is not switch or safety circuit related. It's battery, cable, or starter related.

Typical "chain of command" on those tractors is the start signal begins with key switch. One tiny wire from there leads to the PTO switch. From there another tiny wire to the neutral switch. Then it goes back up to the actual start relay which is under the cluster in the steering column area...

Wrong fluid types can cause a few different problems, granted, but not that one. I've run across some Kubota couplers that leaked when not being used. Simple (and least expensive) solution was to get a male end to match, screw a pipe plug into it, and plug it into the coupler. When you need/use...

This is testing voltage where? At the battery? at the starter? at the key switch? What counts is the voltage at the start signal wire on the starter solenoid. Have you checked it there? First thing I would do (if you haven't already) is get rid of the plastic cover over the starter. Locate the...

So this is an M100, cab tractor? Has a loader with mid mount cable controlled two spool valve under the right cab door? The hydraulic pumps are under the cab just below the seat? You have a gauge in the pressure line leading to that valve? The loader currently doesn't function at all? Yes/no so...

Lots of replies so far but not a lot of help yet. Why not start over. Tell us about the system, what went wrong to begin with, why you needed a gauge, what works and what doesn't. Curious minds need details. Without the comments don't mean much.

I think you're adding confusion to the situation. There's nothing wrong in adding a tee and pressure gauge (which as I understand it is what was done) to any circuit. You're ASSUMING he has valves in parallel, which although a possibility here, is still unconfirmed. I'll wait to get more...

I'm always in favor of a creative workaround to help beat the system. Been there, done that, more times than I care to count.

You claim the clutch and compressor are working, but your results don't confirm that. No matter how much refrigerant you add, if the high and low sides read the same pressure, you have an expansion valve problem (for openers). No offense intended, but as I see it you're in over your head on this...

https://www.pneu-draulics.com/ This is where I go. You might contact them with the sizes and dimensions of the parts you can't find elsewhere and see what they can do.

I've never been to Hercules Seals, but from their website it looks like the sort of place that would have what you need. I'm wondering how your "friend" approached this. Did he take the old seals in for comparison or just contact them with a loader brand and model number? The place I go to for...

Pretty straight forward. Have done it a number of times. Plenty of instructions out there. Just stay away from the three dollar relays. Get one you can count on.

I wouldn't worry much about it. Personally, I get tired of all the comments I see involving "change the fluid and filter(s)" every time a hydraulic question is asked or a problem mentioned. Lots ex spurts out there who swear by that, even when they can't see the tractor, the oil, or the problem...

Why don't you try the basic test? Remove the signal wire from the starter. Put a short jumper wire on the spade and "jump" that to battery positive. Do that a few times. Do you get the same result as with starting (or attempting to start) with the key? If yes, then you have a starter, battery...

Maybe if you describe the symptoms more accurately it would help. "Seldom starts on first, second, third start" What does that mean? Starter spins but the engine doesn't? Starter does nothing? Something clicks but nothing happens? Details matter.

Depending on how the starter is made you may not need to "find a wire". You can "double up" on the signal wire to starter, or maybe if it has a two post solenoid attach a wire to bottom post that sends power into the motor brushes. I've seen it done that way.

Many systems do it that way with no problems.

Many systems tie the pull coil to the start circuit. Engaging the starter activates the pull coil. When the starter is released the hold coil takes over. You might consider that rather than adding a button.

Maybe there's something else available that will fit. Seems there are all sorts of those things out there. Can't say for sure just what, you're looking at it, I'm not. Seems a shame that Koreangineering can't supply replacement parts for more than two weeks.

Well, sometimes one must get a little "creative" when dealing with things like this. Cut the connector pigtail off the old one, cut the connector off the new one, and join the two together. Make a separate extension for the ground wire (if you need it) and bolt it to something.

Forty series SLE tractor wiring diagrams are in multiple pages. Some are in the electrical section of the service manual, some are in the transmission book. You won't find any simple diagrams anywhere for free.

Are you sure you can't use one with three "contacts?" One of the three will most likely be nothing more than ground wire. You indicated yours is self grounded, yes/no? If you test your wiring, is one wire hot with key "on" and the other hot in "start"? That's how many of them work.

I've never done it, but I suppose someone has. Would it be worth it? I guess that depends on how "it" price tags out. It would be a much better handling tractor, no doubt there. It would require the entire power steering column assembly, and probably the front bolster assembly as well, including...

You can't remove those bolts with extractors. That simply won't work. Your only hope would be working the housing off the bolts first, and chances are you ruin the housing in the process. I fear if the gasket leaks you'll be pulling the head.

Ihttps://www.mycnhstore.com/us/en/newhollandag/na/tractors/compact/naba17com0543cyl/3-cyl-compact-tractor/engine/cylinder-head-1710/cn/FE7ABCCF-B8BF-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6/71EE724F-E6BE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6 I'm curious as whether your engine might be pretty close to this. Sounds like you...

Not uncommon. Some of those older IH tractors can be a royal pain to get primed once you remove the filter and drain the housing. My advise would be add another four or five gallons of fluid. That will "flood the zone" and help fill the passages to the pump. Wouldn't hurt to do that then let it...

Replace the gear and the shaft? Major project. And for what? A ground PTO feature that's (probably) never been used, and chances are never will be. I'd be looking for a short section of pipe, the I.D. of which will closely match the O.D. of the messed up portion of the shaft. Slice it length...

Typically cylinder seals are not proprietary. People who build cylinders (and loaders) source them from what's commonly available. Having been through a few hundred cylinders I can't recall any that I couldn't find seals for. Some designs are more complicated than others to work on, granted...

Yes. Part number is 359293X1

Your symptoms indicate a possible slipping clutch, not a low power issue. The metalic sound you heard, could it have come from the clutch area inside the bell housing? Dos the pedal have any noticeable difference free play since this incident?

As I see it, you have few choices. You live with what you have. You split it and go through the clutch.

I make no promises in that regard, but it looks like an obvious starting point.

I think you need to provide more and better details of the failures and repairs before any worthwhile replies will happen.

I'm just guessing here, but it looks very similar to the rear end housing from the 5000 series tractors. Based on this diagram I would say you can get to the seal after removing the PTO guard support (assuming that's what's covering the seal retainer) then the retainer itself. Again, this is...

"Something I should be looking at?" Probably so, but some knowledge and experience on your part (or whoever is working on it) would go a long way. You changed hydraulic oil and filter. What filter? You need to understand that just because it's a 235 doesn't mean all 235 tractors are identical...

You're describing pedal free play adjustment. What does you manual have on the internal adjustment? Assuming you've been there? Have you tried this? Working through the internal adjustment access hole, wedge a pry bar in the clutch/flywheel assembly to prevent the engine from turning. Block the...

"Did I make a mistake buying a Mahindra with a computer and EGR?" Do you really have to ask?

Typically that style PTO clutch lever has a latch mechanism (similar to a brake pedal lock) where you can lock the lever in the up position. Maybe that one doesn't. If not you can always tie it in the full up position for the process.

Lifting the lever should disengage the PTO clutch disc (same as depressing travel clutch pedal) so the clutch disc stops turning and you can shift the PTO lever into gear. In your case it's probably stuck to one or the other of the pressure plates. What you might try. Put the transmission in low...

You're still not getting it. The sleeve goes in the N port and yes you need the third line. T port needs to connect to tractor sump by whatever means necessary. It can have a dedicated line to the tractor case or to a tee in the existing sump return line from the loader valve. If the valve...

Without a power beyond sleeve in the valve you risk having the downstream circuits blocked if/when you need the relief valve to function. Overthinking might not be necessary, but underthinking can be dangerous. Probably a good thing you decided to show us your engineering. Better order the sleeve.

I'm not at all familiar with that tractor, but many similar systems pipe return oil from the steering circuit through a pressure reducing or regulator valve maintaining 200 to 300 PSI. That flow is then used to supply hydrostat charge pressure, PTO, any other clutch packs or low pressure...

Now I'm curious about the line to the PTO valve and your description of the noise it makes. That can't be right. Does that line get warm to the touch quickly? That would certainly make me wonder what's going on in there.

Just guessing but there's a good chance the bottom seal was leaking so rather than fix the problem someone pumped it full of grease and kept running it. How many times have I seen that? It's not necessarily the wrong solution, I've done it myself. The thing is it's not too effective if the...

Possible? I guess most anything is possible, but that wouldn't explain why operating a mid PTO would make a difference. What happens if you run just the rear PTO?

I can see the filter gasket seal having some effect on air ingestion, but the PTO use (or not) should have no bearing on that. This is a belly mower using mid mount PTO? I can see the additional gears turning having some bearing on this depending on oil level, but it shouldn't cause any problem...

Actually, the take apart is not all that easy. Having been through a number of that style boxes I know what you're facing. Yes, bearings, seals, shims, even shafts and gears are available, but they don't just slide off and on. There are tricks involved. Some of the bearings can be pressed off...

What's it look like? Is this a single spindle rotary cutter?

Just throwing some ideas into this. Did you notice any foaming of the oil at the beginning of all this or just since the noise went away and came back? Do you notice oil foaming if you don't use the mower? Is the oil level overfull?

Looking at your diagram I would say item 4, the "steal" ring is the key here. A number of single acting cylinders use that method. The difference here being that the one's I'm familiar with use a straight open port for the oil supply. You can look (and work) through the port to position the rod...

Headliner.

I guess I'm just a downer, but I have my opinions of TYM. They're not favorable opinions.

I see tractors nearly every day. Not as many as I once did, but more than enough to keep me occupied. During my many years as a dealership journey level mechanic I saw my share of engine problems. When they failed it was usually pretty obvious why. Granted, I freely admit that just looking at it...

I'm just guessing too, but I wouldn't condemn the steering valve just yet. The steering pump was replaced. Was that because of this problem or because it had other problems? More details are needed. The steering wheel going around and nothing happening. That could be for more than one reason...

Well it's obvious SOMETHING changed. The clutch was working fine one day and suddenly it's like this. You've changed the pressure plate and gain nothing. That says the problem must be in the geometry of the linkage between the clutch pedal and the cross shaft, the cross shaft and the fork, the...

How does the fork fasten to the cross shaft? Pinch bolt with a dimple in the shaft? Keyway with key stock? Roll pin (hope not)? If you can't get enough adjustment using the pedal free play adjustment to get the clutch to release properly (and the problem was present with the previous clutch) I'm...

This is a "suddenly appeared" problem? You split the tractor, replaced clutch disc AND pressure plate? (Clutch "kit" usually includes both as well as both bearings) The old pressure plate did not appear to be broken or damaged to speak of? Now it still has the same "feel" and same problem? Next...

At this point my next guess would be a problem getting fuel out of the tank fast enough. A rather common problem, and although it's a bit messy, it's not all that difficult. It would involve removing, inspecting, cleaning, and re installing the fuel tap under the tank. It looks like this...

If you have "slop" in the joystick there's a good chance the valve spool that supplies the tilt function may not be actually moving far enough in either direction to accomplish anything. The view from the bottom shows the area to be pretty nasty, and only you can see what's actually happening...

Why don't you post some photos of you valve and linkage? Maybe some ideas will come up.

What are you hoping for here? Do you have a hydraulic problem with the tractor or a mechanical problem with a loader control valve? If it's a valve problem searching for parts is probably a waste of time. You would be better off replacing it with a generic loader valve and be done with it. They...

I'm not familiar with all the Iseki built tractors, but if you hope for any accurate answers to your questions it might help if you clarified which transmission you have. Is this a dry clutch mechanical shuttle or a power shuttle? Power shuttle systems have multiple possibilities for problems.

Splice the two lines together, toss the "black box" in the round file and go back to work.

You need to rethink the loader valve. sounds like it's probably set up for open center which won't work on your tractor. You need a closed center valve or a closed center plug for this valve. The return should go to a ported transmission filter cover. The pressure line you can tee into that line...

It sounds like there might be a spacer of some sort in the middle of the wheel between the bearings. The bolt is seized to that. A parts breakdown would be helpful at this point.

You seem overly convinced the oil has a fuel mixture. How have you confirmed that and eliminated hydraulic oil as another possibility?

Fuel problems don't usually act that way. They don't just "easily restart". It will require some cranking, possibly bleeding somewhere. It would seem to me more electrical in nature. More details about how/when/why would be helpful to understand how the brakes might be involved because there...

I think you're missing the point. I don't see the shaft moving side to side so much of a problem as the sleeve being too loose within the fork. I would be looking to tack some shims of some sort on each side of the sleeve so it has less room to try and rotate. If the fork and sleeve were a...

No connection between steering and hydraulics on a 275. Typical reason for transmission overfilled is water added, usually through cracked or missing shifter boots. If the oil looks good drain it to level and see what happens. You might crack the front (transmission) drain plug, loosen it slowly...

Then the added relay trick is a great next step.

Simple test for that. Remove the signal wire from the starter. Install a short "jumper" wire to the spade on the starter just long enough to reach the main positive battery cable stud. Key and fuel both off, tractor in neutral. Touch the bare end of the jumper to the positive post a few times...

You might try adjusting the valves. Not a guarantied fix for anything other than peace of mind.

I agree the two lines need to be hooked together, but I would try it at the couplers first. With engine off, disconnect both couplers and try to mate the two on the tractor end together. You won't know until you try.

That's often a concern on small tractors. Seems the engineers don't always think far enough down the road to make it easy. Sometimes one must get creative.

I would hesitate to say you should be looking for 12 volts. Without the proper manual for that tractor and transmission options I can't say what voltage it should have. Many of the computer controlled circuits and components operate on different voltages. Anywhere from 5 volts on up. And no...

Far too many dealerships in that same boat. Unfortunately, their shop (labor) rates don't reflect that.

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What valve are you using? Is this intended for a loader (not that it really matters)? Typically when adding valves in an open center system it's done in power beyond configuration. Granted, many are NOT done that way and they get by. It's just not the best option in my opinion. Without power...

I don't think I've ever seen a video on that one. I have however, actually done it a few hundred times. Do you need step by step instructions or just "the basics"? Basics. 1) Remove the plastic side shield covering the lift pump. 2) Work the hand primer lever on the lift pump feeling for...

Check the voltage to the clutch when it's turned on and supposedly operating. If it's less than 12 volts then try "jumping" battery power to the clutch and see if it still slips when running under load. Could be a bad clutch (even a bad compressor or system charge I guess) or could be it's just...

There really are no tricks. It's blowing just the one fuse? If you can't find any physical damage to wiring,(as in rodent nest residue) you need to first determine what all circuits that fuse supplies. Then you start following the easiest ones first. Look for wire issues anywhere, then start...

I would say that's a good plan if you can't (or choose not to) find a replacement. I would also look at the fork for wear, or just sloppy fit. Maybe you can add a bit of metal to certain spots on the contact surfaces to help reduce clearances a little to snug things up a bit as well. If you...

I think the transmission solenoids are on the right side of the transmission. Most likely require removing the right rear tire for access, particularly so on cab tractors.

You must have a common rail system and it probably doesn't use a cold start circuit. They have other means of monitoring and dealing with temperature changes. If you're blowing fuses the problem could be most anywhere.

Just the two out hoses. Don't fool with any of the others.