Search results

Yes, all that is normal for that tractor. Typical six speed, non multi-power, live PTO, 165. All similar Massey models had straight cut transmission gears, and yes, they are a bit noisy. The hydraulic pump and PTO are both driven off the center disc of a two stage clutch, so that disc must be...

And by the time you start using the PTO again your warranty will have run out.

There are definitely pro's and con's to both. I once put three clutches in as many months into a little l3250 Kubota. They traded for something with a hydrostat and have been happy with it ever since. Hydrostats are great for people who really don't know how to treat a tractor but insist on...

Turns out the "kit" he mentioned is only a rotating group. ONE rotating group. Not really part of the problem at all. The latest option was a complete unit at $6500. A tough bite to swallow, but at this point options are few. I'll wait and see what he decides. In the mean time I'm looking...

Would you care to bet on that? Today's installment is more bad news. I got it running this afternoon for maybe thirty seconds, probably less. The leak is still there, same place. But wait, there's more. The piston stuck again!! (yes, in that a short a time span) When I bolted the pedals back on...

Not much to add today. The tractor is back on four feet again, lines hooked up (enough to run it anyway), pedal linkage is back together and the oil poured back in. Once the unit was back in the housings I sprayed everything I could get to in the dry areas and blew it all out so virtually no oil...

Before getting all carried away with wires, circuits, grounds, and other complications try putting a voltmeter on the AC output of the alternator (the post that powers the tach) and see what it reads. Most other model New Holland tractors with alternator driven tachometers need to see around 8...

Pay particular attention to roll pins #5 and #6. Known problem areas.

No, not really. I've kinda been avoiding it finding other projects more satisfying. The more I study this thing and the more I look at it, the more confused I become. For instance. The seal I messed up while taking it back apart is at first glance the input shaft seal for the hydrostat unit (but...

Would anyone have any diagrams to share concerning the circuits involved with the fuse labeled "key switch'? This is my first time dealing with this model. Assuming it's similar to its larger brothers (5055E, 5065E, etc.) but I see I don't have diagrams on those either. I'm working on one that...

If your pump looks more like fig. 231 then the tractor must be equipped with pressure control. That was an option, not all tractors came with it. If so, then yes the standard relief valve will not be in the mix. Check your PM inbox.

Yes, but is there a list of what styles/sizes of fittings the adapters fit? My problem is that with all the different fittings used today, I never know which one I'm dealing with until I take one off. At one time If I had adapters for NTP or J.I.C. I could get into most any system. Those days...

For give the ignorance, but how hard can it be? How many wires are you dealing with other than those that go on the main post with the battery positive cable. One small wire goes to the solenoid, (usually a spade terminal) all the rest will have ring terminals the same size as the cable end...

Pretty neat kit. What do all those adapters fit? Assuming they are adapters.

Well I'm not assuming that at all. In fact, I'm assuming it's got only two lines, not power beyond configured, and no sump return line. Load on the three point stacks pressure through the entire valve body. Over time, that, along with some increased clearance in the spool fit, can overcome the...

First things first. Before you do anything to the valve, look to see if it has two or three hose connecting it to the tractor. If it has only two, replacing O rings on the spools will only last a short while. Count your hoses than come back.

Glow plug resister?

The relief valve is a preset self contained little unit, usually threaded into the lift pump somewhere. If you have external hydraulic remote valves there will be another relief in that unit as well, but that is for the auxiliary pump circuit, and has no effect on the three point.

Some people do that. Personally, I'm not a fan of the concept. If the lift cover is off, I would pour some through, scrub a little, flush and then let it drain out. But running it with diesel instead of oil? That I have never done, and probably never will.

To start with, the drive coupler is splined onto the pinion shaft. It turns when the tractor rolls, no mater whether in any gear or neutral. Second, before you go into the pump, drain the rear end and remove the small three cornered tin plate under the pump. Then you can remove and clean the...

I can't answer that, I have never tried. If you can see the linkage through the hole on the bottom, and you tell if it's all there? It's basically a rod going up through the hole, and some pins, and linkage toggles on the control valve support. The missing part is probably only part that...

There is a hole in the top of the bell housing not far from the end of the rod in your photo. Originally there was a bushing of sorts, and a rubber boot around another rod about the same diameter as what you have, That rod went down to the mutipower control valve inside the clutch housing. The...

I'm really not into U tube videos. I get tangled up in some now and again, but when it comes to those tractor related, I usually disagree with much of what they put out, so why waste my time? Often different videos on the same subject will go in different directions. If you're interested in...

Well today's installment is no better than the last. I went back and studied the situation again, and determined which of the possible problem areas are NOT involved. What i saw running out on the floor came from an opening in the clutch housing, just slightly forward of the clutch housing/rear...

If I were you, and the lift works for you, I wouldn't worry about it. You can google draft control and learn more about it, but it really only applies to ground working equipment like plows, chisels, and subsoilers. Probably something you will never need or use.

Regardless of the seized hinge, does the three point operate at all? Does it not work and your thinking this may be part of the problem? I believe what you're asking about is related to top link sensing draft control. Many of the early Mahindras were built on old IH patents and designs...

I get the picture, and yes, my question was answered. Thanks to one and all.

And you have seen how many tractors damaged by improperly wired relays? I've only been working on tractors since 1972 and haven't found one yet. Go figure.

Before it's buttoned up? Not exactly. The only things left on the floor were the floor mat and the two side braces for the loader mounts to the rear axle housings. Another update (for anyone who still cares). I took a break from it for a few days to let my attitude clear. I find that with...

How about that? I've installed more of those relays than I can count, on all sorts of tractors, for all sorts of reasons. A good many with computers. No one has ever accused me of damaging their computer because of a diodeless relay. You learn something new every day, whether you want to or not.

From that I'm picturing something on the order of induced voltage as in an automotive ignition coil. Points open and close, circuit in primary coil winding generates voltage in secondary winding, that sort of thing. Maybe not precisely the same, but some of the principles overlap a bit.

Not really. I don't have anything I can post and am not computer literate enough to make one up.

I've been studying the circuit diagrams and operation of various electrical functions in the service manual for the Kioti DK 35 45 50 tractor. I see a number of relays (not all, but some, including the start relay) that have a diode placed in a loop around/between the terminals for power and...

For what it's worth, just skimming the 3525 parts lists, it looks to me the seal in question fits into the support for the differential carrier. From the inside. My take is the support has to come off to get to the seal. The bull gear and pinion combo they used looks like the axle housing and...

If you wish to operate your equipment that way, fine. I wouldn't suggest for others to do it, particularly since in this case a clutch replacement is already on the table. The expense is his, not yours.

Just curious, but what is the actual pressure you're working with right now? Regardless of what your manual says it is. This is a backhoe attachment, yes/no? if so, then where does the flow and pressure come from? The tractor system?

You know you can add an aftermarket valve and do your own plumbing for a few hundred bucks. I've done that on many different tractors. It's easier than you think, and much simpler than adding all the factory stuff. (most of which is unavailable anyway)

I would think a sudden loss of everything as you describe indicates the hydraulic pump has stopped turning. For whatever reason. Mechanical failure in the gear train that drives it? Maybe the center hub tore out of the drive plate on the flywheel? Something like that. Start at the pump itself...

A/C lines are not hard to find. Many hydraulic hose outlets can make them. Most NAPA stores carry a line of hose and fittings to make them. Provided they have some sort of commonly used A/C fitting style.

Another day, another kick in the head. So the little beast was assembled far enough to start it up today. Results were a mixed bag. Some good news, some not so good. The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly. First the Good. The hydrostat functions as advertised. A minor (I believe this to be the...

First mistake. "disassemble and inspect control valve". Most hydrostatic hand pump/steering valves are not really "homeowner serviceable". Depending on just WHAT you took apart, it's very easy to get the internal timing messed up. When that happens you get problems as you described. Start...

I'm not sure why safety switches would be a problem. They weren't before. That should only affect starting, nothing transmission related. It's back on four feet again. All the structural bolts are in and hydraulic lines (except the steering valve) hooked back up. I gave up for the day after...

FINALLY!! We have a winner! Remove the pressure port plug you installed and look for another allen head plug inside. Remove that, and you're good to go. Stop bothering with loops and extra hoses.

Yes, four bolts and the seal retainer comes off. But before that you need to get the axle out. Now it's not so "fairly simple".

Backing off the relief valve probably lets whatever the pump puts out flow directly to sump, building little or no pressure. No squeal, but no work being done either. You screwed up when you removed the loader valve and didn't get the plumbing right. You need to revisit the "block" and the...

The unit is now back in the case. (which is still on the floor) The few seals we got have been installed, the bulk of the mess has been cleaned up, and I plan to start putting the tractor back together tomorrow. Getting the three pieces back into one doesn't look too bad, but assembling all the...

The wrong filter may cause A problem but it won't cause THIS problem. Your problem has to do with the "block". The three ports on the side had three lines connected to a loader valve? You removed those three lines and installed the three plugs we see in the photos? Do I have that right? If...

There is no servo pump. I believe it works off charge pressure, which is steering return flow as I see it. The steering return line leads to a valve body on the right side of the tractor which as I understand it, regulates charge pressure at 250 PSI or so and flow is directed internally to the...

I see the link has vanished. Expired at least. I thought I had it downloaded for future reference but that's not working either. Unfortunately my computer skills are still at third grade level. I really don't know what I'm doing much of the time. The link came from member ptsg back when I was...

I'm not well versed in the servo control concept either. In fact, this is my first experience at it. Considering the lack of product support (parts wise) from Kioti on this particular issue, it may very well be my last. That said, I think I understand enough about how everything works. Well...

Time goes by and so little gets done. Here's an update for anyone who may be interested. The parts availability for the hydrostat on this tractor is disappointing, to say the least. Kioti can't (or won't) supply much of anything for it any more. This tractor is barely ten years old. Kioti can...

Are you having hydraulic problems that may be pressure related, or are you just curious? No long winded answers here. The hydraulic system ( remotes, three point, any auxiliaries) should be 2250 PSI or slightly above. That does not apply to the hydrostat relief pressures.

Why would you go through the trouble and expense of all that? The system most likely has a relief valve somewhere now. Cutting into hard lines, adding in a bunch of new parts and plumbing makes no sense. The common sense approach would be to look the system over, figure out what went wrong...

I think he's confirmed it's GETTING fuel, just not sure why it's not delivering.

Key on or off makes no difference in flow TO the injection pump. The action of the shut off solenoid and the related internal parts it contacts is what affects the delivery from the pump units sending fuel to the injectors. THAT seems to me to where the problem is.

Revisit the fuel shut off solenoid. If you don't hear or feel it click on and off with the key on and off, then find out why. If that's not working (for whatever reason) or the part in the pump component it pushes against isn't moving, you can bleed forever and the pump will not deliver any fuel.

If you expect much meaningful help, it might be wise to post some photos of your system, maybe explain some of the details concerning what the tractor has (hydraulic wise) other than a three point lift. Any history of work recently done, anything changed in regards to hydraulic before this...

"The block"? is that a diverter block with a spool on one side you can rotate with a screwdriver? If so, and you didn't rotate it when you removed all the loader plumbing, that's how you messed up the pump and line. You might be about to mess up another one.

Start by testing to see if the three point will lift WHILE using the loader controls. If it does, then some hoses are probably crossed on the loader valve return lines back to the tractor.

Maybe so, but having only spent about a half hour looking over a machine I'm not at all familiar with, and it having a couple different problems, I figured a little research would be a good starting point. All the Yanmar engines I've been around so far were indirect injection engines and glow...

This tractor has nothing like that. I expect it's more like this. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/75863/referrer/navigation/pgId/2784560 I see them on a number of different engines on many tractor makes. Deere uses something very similar on the 5000 series. I've seen...

What's so important about that line that you can't work a way around replacing it?

Sounds like a failure there would result in the engine not running at all. This one seems to run just fine once it gets going. It seemed to to start just fine the second time. I'll listen for the solenoid next time out there.

Okay, but what are the symptoms of a failure of the part?

Sorry, I'm not really up to speed on John Deere's thermistor concept. I understand the principal (for the most part) but haven't had much experience with dealing with problems in that area. I would think if that were an issue here it probably wouldn't start or run at all. Is that not what...

By cold start I'm referring to the first start of the day. The day I was there the temp was near 50. It shouldn't have needed heat, since it's apparently direct injection, not a glow plug engine, I didn't know that at the time. Next time I will pay more attention to the fuel side of things...

I don't know about the .039 runout. I've never felt the need to make that particular measurement on a dry clutch disc. Then again, I don't recall a similar situation where the problem wasn't self evident. I would think the travel distance of the pressure plate surface when fully...

Fuel shut off solenoid is working properly. What does that mean? You have removed it entirely, plugged the wires on, and tested it with the key switch in various positions and see the plunger rod move back and forth? Have you tried cranking with the solenoid removed? With solenoid removed...

There are other diverter valves out there. Most only direct oil to the lift or the externals, not both at the same time. Typically you would place the lift controls in constant pumping to supply externals. Having the lift tied in when doing so will create problems when lift gets all the way up...

The FEL is NOT easy to drop, because the hydraulics currently don't work either. If the heater was even visible, let alone accessible, I would already have checked that. And yes, turning the key on and pushing in on it activates the glow plug light on the dash. That tells me at least the first...

Not really confusing at all. The new valve you're planning on using is set up the same way. In fact, most power beyond capable valves have at least two outlet ports, only one is machined for the sleeve. The rest are just just open to the internal passages of the casting. You really should try to...

Unfortunately, you don't really have a lot of options with that tractor. The hydraulic system in most of the early Massey's was designed primarily just to operate the three point, and not much else. At some point they added a second pump to supply flow for a multi power transmission and in some...

Maybe it SHOULD, but it doesn't. Nothing wrong battery wise, cranks well enough. Next step is to check out the heater. See if it's getting power, working or not, that sort of thing. I just couldn't tell what it has yesterday, what with the fuel tank, coolant overflow tank, and air cleaner all...

Yes, I found that already. I also found a diagram of relays stating it's for a 4300. Doesn't say for what version, just 4300. It shows a number of relays, four of which pertain mainly to engine functions. (start relay, fuel shut off rely, etc) One listed as K1 manifold relay. What might that be...

4300 hard starting cold. My first thought was glow plugs not working. Parts book shows no glow plugs, just a manifold grid heater. I can't see much of the top of the head without removing the air filter housing. So would it be safe to assume there are no glow plugs? The air heater and related...

That doesn't look like a valve I would consider using for what you are hoping to do. I don't see a relief valve anywhere, and don't see any power beyond capability. If you connect that valve directly in line from the pump with no relief, you will bust something wide open the first time you use...

That's worth a try I guess, but I doubt anyone at Koyker will be able to tell you what valve you have. I could be wrong on that. You could also post some photos of the valve from different angles. Someone may be able to tell you what it is, and most likely be able to tell you if it's a power...

While I agree with some of that, placing the valve after the steering flow divider will reduce a rather small flow to begin with, to an even smaller flow. Judgement call there. He would need to evaluate for himself just which option would suit his needs more. I'm guessing the loader is already...

Rick, do your own research on power beyond as it applies to series plumbed open center valves. Don't believe everything you read here. Misinformation is worse than no information at all.

What does that prove? It's your loader valve that that's in question.

If your valve has a sleeve installed it will have three lines connecting it to the tractor systems. If it has only two, then power beyond is not in play.

I agree with all of that. The existing loader valve SHOULD have the proper power beyond sleeve installed. It should have been done that way at the start. Unfortunately, not all people installing loaders and related valves understand (or even care) about that. I've done this many many times...

Check your PM inbox

Is that valve power beyond capable with a built in relief valve? Do you have the power beyond sleeve for it? If so, then what's the hold up? All you need to do is interrupt the pump pressure line, ( that should separate somewhere near the engine/transmission split area) connect a hose from that...

I know how I would approach it, but how you would go about doing it would depend on a few different factors. Are you familiar with open center hydraulics at all? Are you hoping to install all (or at least most) factory, O.E.M. components, and wanting it to look "factory" when finished, or just...

I'm familiar with that operation, but both AGCO and Kubota sites don't support that. They only link to the home page. You must navigate to the desired page on site. Work your way through the make/model, go page by page to find what you're looking for. Not hard, once you understand their system...

Somehow I doubt anyone has the part in question available to photograph. I also suspect the one currently under discussion probably won't be "out on the table " any time soon. If you're familiar with the AGCO parts website you can go to the hydrostat pump and motor page in the 1010 parts book...

I'm no authority on that tractor, nor hydrostats in general, but what I see in the parts diagram tells me the square shank piece that broke is (or was) actually part of the swash plate itself. I can't say without seeing the actual part, but from the drawing it looks to me there may be enough...

Maybe so, I guess I could go back to the DH45 PDF that ptsg put up on my first thread. That book gives a thorough description of all the working parts in this thing, theory of operation and all that. When I read through all that I hadn't seen the inside of any of this yet. A check valve in...

I don't think so. I believe it's a plug for cross drilling through the piston. I don't think it sticks out far enough to touch anything. Not sure though, guess I could check that next time out there.

Yes

I guess my next step tomorrow is to check the local Bobcat and closest Kioti parts counters and see what seals, gaskets, and O rings are available. The Bobcat parts list shows many of those I would like to replace are listed as NLA. Maybe Kioti will be more help.

It works on my end

https://www.noltspower.com/oempartfinder#/Kioti_Tractor/HYDRAULIC/HST_PARTS_GROUP_EX45H-T195B/01-07%7c%7eDK45HSE-M-HYDRAULIC/0107DK45HSE0135/y Let's see if this works.

That's what I expected. Only goes to home page. Not much help.

https://www.bobcatpartsonline.com/#/catalogBrowser?path=%2F0000-Compact%20Tractors%2F0000-CT445%2F0000-ABHL11001%20%26%20Above%20W%26%2347;O%20CAB%2F0003-Drive%20Train%2F0022-HST%20Parts%20Group Not sure if this link will work or not, I've never tried to link to this site. This is a breakdown...

Pilot valve is inside the piton. It's not nor was it ever stuck. Before disassembling anything else the actuating control lever was removed exposing the valve. It could easily be moved back and forth against its spring pressure with little effort. It was the piston the valve operates that was stuck.

The tractor in question is branded as a Bobcat CT445 but it's still Kioti. Posting this here because I'm thinking the Kioti name may have more "eyes" on it. It's a DK45 HSE tractor as far as I can see. The problem is this. The hydrostat decided one day to stick in the forward direction. The...

Proper cranking speed = battery + starter + CABLES. No mention yet about your cables/connections. I would go there before worrying about switches and wiring.

On a straight gear drive tractor (assuming that's what you have) changing fluids and filters won't give a worn out clutch new life. A clutch adjustment is just that. An adjustment. It will not rejuvenate a worn clutch. If done properly and done when needed, it can help minimize clutch wear...

You say the fuse is good. Have you confirmed power is actually getting to the fuel solenoid?

Not sure what "having it calibrated" amounts to. None of the pump shops I've ever dealt with would put a pump on their test stand that wasn't disassembled, cleaned, then re assembled in house. There again, maybe you have access to one that will.

An injection pump is not a gearbox or a power steering pump. I work on those on a regular basis myself. Just my opinion here, but an injection pump is not homeowner serviceable. If you choose to "rebuild" one yourself at home, then by all means, go for it. You may be better at it than the rest...

Just curious here, do you also plan to "do it yourself"?

I take it you've never actually done this particular repair before?

No, I wouldn't do that. I would use the prybar and a small block of wood. Get behind the pipe near the bend and pull the line towards the front of the tractor. Replacing the lines is a judgement call. I would probably consider brazing up the worn spot unless there are just too many of them or...

That block with the plugs is what you're looking for. Your two spool valve needs to be power beyond configured to operate properly. That's your starting point. If it's not PB capable, you should seriously consider exchanging it for one that is. You need to remove those three plugs, install...

They are just stuck. They will come out with a little persuasion. If this is your first experience with those lines, I suggest you mark one of them before you remove them. Once they're both out and removed from the tractor, you will be lost going back as to which one goes where. They will each...

Who told you that you can't take it apart? Someone put it together didn't they? You should be able to empty the fluid, remove the hose and fitting, then pull the rod out nearly full stroke. Look through the fitting port and at some point you should see the end of the rod, a groove around it...

Testing the solenoid isn't hard. Take the wire off, then unscrew the unit from the back of the pump. Reach in with your finger and see if you can move the rack move rack and forth against slight spring pressure. It should move with little effort then spring back. Take the coil and connect a...

Here's someone who just went through this. He has the books on the system. You might try a PM to him. Maybe he can help you sort it out. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/jd-770-dies-when-put-in-gear.464755/

Okay, so we're making progress on the little Bobcat nightmare. Another question for those who know these tractors. What type/style hydraulic fittings does Kioti use on the steering valve and hoses? I took one off today just to look at it, and I couldn't identify it. I know I don't have either...

The Bobcat manual I refer to is not an operators manual. It's a three inch thick stack of pages filled with reprinted photos depicting various stages of disassembly procedures. It contains no information on anything related to how those parts work and interact. Basically worthless to anyone...

Thank you very much. THAT is a manual, nothing like the lame excuse for one that Bobcat supplies.

Yes, that looks like the same diagram that's in the Bobcat manual, and the same as what shows up in the CT445 parts breakdown. My problem is I don't have any information concerning the "how and why" operation of this unit. That was why we ordered the manual to begin with. Maybe the DK45 manual...

I think a DK45SE may be pretty similar. I found a few Kioti parts sites, but for some reason I can't find a breakdown on a hydrostatic transmission on any of them. Tractor Data says it was offered with a hydrostat but none of the parts lists I see acknowledge that. Do you have any information...

No, I'm not sure what (if any) Kioti tractor models would be a match. Maybe someone out there can add that. The Bobcat manual has NOTHING like what you posted. The hydrostat in the 445 is a bit different than what your photos show. On this one the shaft that the control linkage connects to...

As I understand it, the Bobcat tractor is actually a Kioti in Bobcat colors. I can't help wondering if the service manuals Bobcat provides are of their own design, or are they merely a reprint of what Kioti supplies to them along with tractor components? I'm currently looking through the...

Check you're PM inbox.

No doubt you will get an assortment of answers to this question. Here's mine. Do with it what you will. I do this when and where the ambient temp is reasonably comfortable. This is because the seal material doesn't take to being manhandled when it's cold. The warmer the better. I remove the...

How does the flywheel fit on the old crank? Same as this, or was it a tight enough fit to self center?

Are you serious? I'd hate to see your list of do's and don't's for something with a real problem.

Did this combination run before, or has something been changed here? The shim mentioned shows up on engines with a rope type rear seal, but not with a lip seal.

No personal experience on that cylinder, but I would expect it to be right hand thread. Looks like a stepped down area on the threaded side of the piston. I would anchor the rod securely somewhere and try to break it loose with a pipe wrench. That area would not be in contact with the barrel...

I find that searching for cylinder shaft, piston seals and related O rings by application (or even by part number) is all too often a waste of time. You're better off matching parts individually by style, shape and dimensions. Provided you have the old parts, or what's left of them, to work...

A lot of machine work for little gain. Much simpler to cut the line. Possibly in two places, depending on the layout of the line, the location of the loader valve, how and where to anchor the line(s) once cut, etc. Lots of variables. I would look it over, decide what will go where, then...

Small world. I make that trip quite often. The closest Deere and New Holland dealers are both in Mt Sterling.

While that does look pretty sharp, in all honesty a loader is a loader is loader. Where this gets interesting is the choice of control valve, how and where it's mounted, how and where it's connected to the tractor hydraulics, and all that. That's the the part I enjoy.

Then all you need is the right valve, fittings, hardware, and some fabricating. It's not all that complicated.

It doesn't really matter what they are. If you follow the advice you mentioned in your first post, you won't need them. Just make sure you source a power beyond type loader valve and order the matching power beyond sleeve with it. The rest is just nuts and bolts, hoses and fittings. I can't see...

From your description of the events, I wouldn't expect much damage in the planetary gears. No matter where they are, they are not forgiving. Almost ANY problem with parts/pieces getting between them and you will hear and/or feel a definite problem. Your symptom is more likely a snapped pinion...

If you plan to replace the broken rod, then yes, the axle will need to come off. If it were me, I would deal with the messed up clevis first. Get that apart, threads cleaned up and repaired as needed because that's the brake adjustment. Once past that, I would replace the seal, put the washer...

Opinions on what part of it? The tractor, the price, or the hours? Long built simple, dependable, no frills machines. I've worked on a number of them and have nothing bad to say about them. (provided it's 2WD) The price seems reasonable enough as prices go for used tractors these days. Of...

It seems to me the main issue is brakes. Exactly why, I don't know. Wet brakes and wet clutches have been around as long as I've been working on tractors (long darn time). Case, IH, AC, Ford, Cat, Deere, all had them. Every one of them pushed their oil as the best product for their tractors...

It's not just the price, although it is a consideration. The nearest dealer is seventeen miles away, while TSC is just on the edge of town, open late and on weekends. Sometimes that makes all the difference.

It's second hand smoke in this case. The tractor's owner is catching the flak. I just can't help getting pissed off when I hear that stuff.

Thanks but that looks like PIA to get into.

Understood. Again, your choice.

The reason this rant came to mind again was because of one particular tractor. A 6200 power quad. It's on a local horse farm, purchased used about five years ago. Does nothing but empty one spreader load of manure every day. The tractor has had a bad brake on side for some time, and recently...

That's precisely why I would try supplying 12 volts to the coil to see if it actually works. If it does, then you know you have a working switch and a working solenoid. What's in between is up to you. You can keep buying nonreturnable parts, maybe get it right, or get creative. Your money, your...

I can't help but ask Did you try testing the solenoid with 12 volts? If so, did the 4WD disengage?

I expect this has been covered before, but the truth is I have never mastered the search feature on this site no matter how many times I tried. For the last fifty years I've been told John Deere tractors MUST have John Deere oil. Or else! This happens, that happens, brakes fail, clutch packs...

I'm not sure where to start, other than to disconnect the front axle driveline and see what changes. If it still won't roll, I would drain the oil from the transfer box and see what falls out.

I had a question posed to me concerning rebuilding the cluster on a 6415. I see a handful of websites claiming to provide this service, but don't have a clue which, if any, are reliable or problematic. Anyone have any experiences to share regarding past cluster repairs, good or bad?

Maybe you could describe in a little more detail what happens. The tractor won't MOVE in 4WD? The front wheels don't turn, just skid? They roll okay in 2WD? None of the wheels turn, the engine stalls? Give us something to work with here.

I'm betting there's more than just "a relay". I suspect there's a computer somewhere as well, brake pedal switches, the 2/4 WD switch, and possibly even more. Just because you turn the switch off and on doesn't mean you're actually sending signal to the solenoid valve.

At this point there should be no reason to worry about the steering column or control valve. Nothing much in there that would contribute to air in the fluid.

The pressure the pump develops has nothing to do with air in the fluid or oil running out the filler. Replacing the shaft seals usually takes care of that. The pressure really isn't all that important. Once working, if it steers, it's probably okay. That style pump was used on a number of...

More than likely the shaft seals are causing your problem. The pump is off, you have the kit, just do it. Bear in mind though, if the pump is original (or simply old enough) the double sided shaft seal you find won't be in the kit. You will get two single sided seals that will go in back to...

I would agree with the press idea, but not the heat. I have straightened a few of them, always bent them cold. You can heat it if you like, but I wouldn't suggest for someone to do that. Your tractor, your money, your choice.

There's no reason any open center two spool valve won't work for you. Provided it's rated for whatever pump flow you're dealing with, or at least close. That said, you might find that buying the $63 valve may not be much of a savings when you see the price of the "no problem" BSPP fittings as...

No. That's running the pump output through a Hedland 30 GPM flow meter and jacked up to 2000 PSI.

I'm not dedicated to that particular item. Simply wondering about that style of unit. I don't need (or want) one with a relief, and have seen any number of them listed from many sources. Assuming the basics of operation are pretty much the same with all of them. I've never seen one used with...

I'm currently in the process of setting up a hydraulic power unit, consisting of an engine driven closed center pressure compensated piston pump. When I got the unit it was my understanding it would be rated at 17 - 18 GPM. I am planning to use it to run a hydraulic motor rated for +- 19 GPM...

There should be some sheet metal panels you can remove to expose the top of the transmision and the shifter housings. It appears there is a neutral safety switch with two wires mounted in one corner of what they call the rail housing assembly. This would be on the top of the transmission, a sort...

From what I see in the wiring diagram the start signal from the key switch passes through a safety start relay. It's a normally open circuit. The relay is energized by an ignition circuit when the key switch is on. That signal flows through the PTO switch, then through the main shift neutral...

My first thought would be to "jump" the starter solenoid spade directly to the battery cable post when it acts up. Make up a jumper wire that you can slip onto the spade terminal after removing the existing start wire. When you touch that to the positive cable post the starter will crank (if...

Finding a step down hose would be difficult at best. I would most likely try to fab an adapter to put between the two, one side 7/8 the other 3/4. Short hose splices on each end. I just went through a similar problem a week or so ago. You have to scrounge around and find the right size scraps...

How long is that section of hose? That will affect the options available.

If your problem was battery or cable related it wouldn't crank by jumping at the starter. I have a book on that tractor somewhere with the wiring diagrams. If you're still working on this, maybe I can help.

I don't know a lot about that model, and will state that up front. However, I can't help wondering if your problem is more pedal/linkage related than a brake issue at all. It looks to me there is only one pedal that operates both brakes? With an enclosed cross shaft connecting the single pedal...

You stated you "have everything apart". Does that include the radiator? You really don't want to mess with those steel lines with the radiator in place. Does what you're working on look something like this...

Now you know what the noise was.

Have you looked at the right side shifter? Below the tin cover, on the outboard side and just below the boot. Is there a wire harness connector there? The PTO switch should be on the other side, somewhere near the point where the PTO engagement lever pivots. It will be actuated by the...

Regardless of which seal is leaking, the critical part here is how much (if any) lateral movement is there in the shaft that seal rides on. If you can feel it move side to side when force is applied, you're looking at more problems down the road if you don't address that. Adding grease to...

As I recall the last time I dealt with that it was on a 240. Virtually the same tractor in that regard. What I ended up doing was fabricating a clamp/bracket assembly that I attached to one side of the lift housing around the area of the rockshaft bushing. Then with a long forcing screw from a...

My book lists fault code 74 as "ECM supply voltage too low". It says if the ECM detects the voltage at connector 2, pin 34, or connector 2, pin 10 is less than 9 volts for longer than 0.3 seconds. Result is it will disable the transmission. It may be re-enabled by cycling of the key switch. The...

That doesn't look all that complicated. Mostly a matter of locating a nut of that size and thread. A couple proper size set collars or sections of pipe. Set it all up and weld it together. I'm sure I could do all that myself, so there should be no reason why any qualified weld shop couldn't...

So far we have air in the system, a bad steering valve, or bad piston seal. I guess we wait to see how it turns out.

I wouldn't get anything. A serpentine belt usually won't squeal, so I'd rule that out. If you suspect the alternator belt (or the alternator bearings) just loosen that up, spin the alternator pulley by hand and see what it feels like. Start it up briefly with the belt loose and see if the squeal...

I would lean more toward a piston seal leaking in the steering cylinder.

Probably not the best combination to run long term, but certainly not the reason you have a clutch problem. Why would they recommend changing it again? Most likely because it's more hydraulic fluid than transmission fluid. Will it damage anything? Not really.

The item pictured is not a regulator, it's a flasher unit. As for a wiring diagram, even if you manage to find the one that actually matches your tractor, I seriously doubt it will help you much. I say that based partly on the fuses that are also pictured. I'm guessing yours is a European...

Well you realize that makes a great deal of difference for anyone trying to imagine what might be going on. In that case, then by all means, split the tractor. I've heard a similar sound many times with dry clutch button disc plates. I believe it's occurs when the buttons wear down to a point...

I've been following this from the beginning, not because I know anything about this transmission, more because I thought I might learn something. After looking through some of the parts diagrams, it seems I know even less about it than I thought I did. This is a power reverser transmission...

Bypassing the seat switch will only work if that switch is the problem. There is simple way around the issue, if you're willing to go around the operator aggravation module entirely. You can bypass its control over the injection pump without disturbing whatever else it does.

The fluid type in this case has little if any bearing on the operation (or non operation) of a dry clutch. The 1715 has a gear driven 9 X 3 transmission. If you have a clutch problem, you have a clutch problem. It's not a "fluid type" problem.

Adding hydraulics to operate a loader would be the easiest part of the project. FINDING a loader and brackets would more of a challenge. That said, this tractor, considering its size and lack of power steering, would not be a good match for a loader. Just my opinion here.

Classic example of conflicting opinions. To me the bore looks right. To someone else, it doesn't. Which to believe?

It looks right to me. It's not hard to see how one can become confused. Once you get past a dozen or so replies often half of them are incorrect, incomplete, and/or just plain frustrating. Everyone claims to have the right answers and you get to decide who to believe.

The hood, grill, etc will come off without too much effort. Once the bolts are all out stand in front, tilt it all back toward you, and lift it off. I've done it many times. It's just tinware, won't include the fuel tank. Murphy shutdown systems should still be available. Their gauge units and...

It will, but probably not for long. That style has the shortest lifespan of any electric pump I've ever tried. I prefer the square block type. Have installed a number of them with good results...

Just another thought here. As I recall many of the "air in fuel" issues I ran into on the 4025 and 4035 were eventually eliminated by adding an electric supply pump between the tank and the filter base. At the time Mahindra warranty wouldn't recognize it because Mahindra technical hadn't...

I have no opinion on that, other than I wouldn't trust the sleeves. When you've exhausted all other avenues and still have air getting into the fuel (provided that is indeed the issue) then I guess I would cut those sleeves off as well and install clamps. See what difference that makes.

The original line with the braided cover is junk, and the crimp sleeves can't be trusted. I would keep the steel pipes, put new hose and clamps between them. What do the new lines look like? I've never seen any but the braided stuff. Maybe they finally got their act together and came up with...

Then timing is not your problem. You should revisit the supply. Does it still have the braided mesh covered fuel lines with crimp sleeves ? If so, that's the next change I would make. Get rid of that hose and sleeves. cut the sleeves off, replace the hose with rubber fuel hose and standard hose...

The port markings are largely immaterial. Remove the hose and the plug next to it, look inside and that will tell the story. The MCO means it's probably a Nimco valve. Commonly used in loader hydraulic packages.

The timer you mentioned starts and stops the cold start advance on the injection pump. Pump timing can indeed cause problems similar to what you describe, but will often follow a pattern. When that happens the engine will start and run fine for the twenty minutes or so the timer is on. The timer...

I think the fuel pump and the fuel shut off solenoid are on the same circuit. If the engine starts and runs, the fuse should not be the problem.

Markings on the loader valve may be confusing. USUALLY the pressure "in" port will be labeled P, and will be closest to the relief valve. The exit ports will be on the opposite side. Depending on the design of the valve casting there may be as many as three ports. This gives more options for...

Your snowblower issue is a prime example of a "downsteam" problem. Just because your loader valve was a factory option doesn't make it right. The non power beyond configuration is simpler, cheaper, and usually faster to install so often dealer installations go that way. Examine your valve. If...

There are probably as many answers to that question as there are wires to cut. One must understand that the Ford 3000 (on which your tractor was based) had a very simple electrical system by comparison. A key switch, a light switch, some warning lights, gauges, and a generator/regulator package...

It goes something like this. In an open center hydraulic system whenever valves are connected in series (like a loader valve, extra remote valves, etc) they SHOULD be connected in a power beyond configuration. I think MOST people who understand much about hydraulics would agree to that theory...

I can't tell from the video, but how many hoses connect the loader valve to the tractor? Two or three? If it's two, there may be part of the cause for the O ring failure

I'm not sure that drilling the cover would be possible without removing it. I'm thinking that most, if not all of the four bolts holding it on can't be reached without taking half the tractor apart. I'm leaning towards looking for an accessible spot where I can drill a hole in the box, down as...

It looks to me that all of that comes apart, one piece at a time. I would remove the bolts securing the three ball joint assemblies from the handle unit. Remove each stud one at a time. slide the respective ball onto each, then spot weld a washer or something similar to the end of the stud so...

Not sure how that would work. The two units look (on paper that is) pretty similar, and on opposite sides of the shift cover. Both look to have recessed areas beneath the links that rotate the shifting shafts. So far only the right side has the problem. I think I need to take another look at...

I see the bottom cover in the parts list but figured it would probably be nearly impossible to access. The parts list doesn't show this, but the service manual shows the same drawing with holes and plugs in the front and rear of the tower. They look like they would line up with and provide...

Surprisingly cheap, yes, and worth every penny. I've replaced three on this particular lever in less than six months. Deere warrantied them, but that doesn't solve the issue. Enough about that. So there could be water in the chamber below the ball where the lever pivots, and it wouldn't...

I'm not sure yet just what I need to take off. I'm looking for something that binds up the lever when it freezes. It's not ice, as was first suspected. There hasn't been enough rain or moisture lately to be much of a problem, and it appears to be all dry in there, yet whenever temps fall below...