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Hoping for some insight on removing the main gearshift lever and shifting tower on a 5410 collarshift transmission. I'm trying to figure out how much stuff has to come off the tractor (open station straddle mount) to get this off.

For what it's worth to anyone else, I believe this also holds true for the other Workmaster series tractors, 60, 65, 75, etc, with mechanical injection pump. At least it has in my experience.

I would suspect the problem is a rusted pivot joint. I have seen it many times. In fact both shifters are prone to it in this part of the country. It's no fun to get to it, and often I have remove the entire assembly, then heat the joint to break it loose. The joint I'm referring to is where the...

Weak pump? That's what I thought at first too, until I saw this. https://www.sanyamerica.com/products/construction-equipment/excavators/mini/sy35u/ Having never heard of the machine I was curious. I don't know if his machine (2014) has all these features, but when I got to the part about...

Hard to tell from out here, but my first thought would be you might have a stuck clutch disc. That is provided the pedal travel, free play, and pressure plate spring tension all seem to be where they were back when it worked correctly.

Agreed. Service manual won't tell you much unless you plan to take it apart. It will have little or nothing about what to look for in your case. Pictures won't help much either, as they will be blurred black and white reprints of the original manual. If you can make out any usable details in...

If there was "nothing out of the ordinary", it would go into gear. Pull the cover. Be careful of the wires to the neutral switch, and the detent springs. The springs can sometime try to jump out of the bore if bumped. Once the cover is off and the pressure is off the springs, you should be able...

Put the module back in place. Then pull the dash out. If you look down in there you will see some relays clipped to the structure. There is one that controls the fuel shut off on the pump. You need to find it (I think it's on the left side) next. Unclip them one at a time, turn turn them around...

I have a solution if you're willing to go around the operator aggravation module.

I think you need to revisit the two lines to and from the loader valve, where they come from and where they go. I agree that your finger is showing what is most likely a power beyond sleeve. Just my humble opinion here, but if I were you I would endeavor to keep it and put your current return...

You don't need a dealer, you need someone who knows tractors. In too many cases these days, dealer mechanics don't know much more than you do about your tractor. Owning a handful of tools doesn't make one a mechanic. Your tractor worked properly before you swapped valves? You changed it mainly...

Adjusted pressure on what? No offense, but your statement makes no sense to me. With a standard open center system there is (or should be) little or no pressure anywhere until a function is activated. Oil flow is then diverted and pressure builds until demand is met. With all valves in...

I can't tell for sure from the photo but I suspect that's an F3L912 engine, which would have an inline Bosch pump. It could have either a manual shut off or an electric rack puller type, whichever the grinder manufacturer decided to go with. A photo of the pump might help identify it.

"Really aren't hard to make"? Have you ever seen the harness on a 3930?

It seems to me that all those two cylinder tractors (1100, 1300, 1500,1700) had no electric shut off. You simply close the throttle all the way. You have to remember to open it a bit to start or it won't start. With those pumps you need to check the oil in back of the pump.once in a while...

No doubt it's a connector for a water sensor. A number of tractor fuel filters have them now. The loss of which is no big deal. Unless of course, the tractor has a computer that monitors that among other things, and puts up a fuss because it's not there. Stopping the leak at the bottom of the...

Still could be electrical. Remember the fuel pump gets power through the operator aggravation module, not just when you turn the key on. THAT decides whether the pump turns on or not. It doesn't care how much fuel flow you have or where you have it.

I've run into a "no start" problem on a couple Workmaster 55 tractors, the blue cousin to yours. In all cases it turned out to be no power to the fuel pump solenoid. It was never intermittent though, it was just a dead circuit. You could test the wire to the pump when it occurs next to see if...

Well as far as that diverter block is concerned, if the loader works, then the spool is probably turned the right way. It should turn about 1/3 of turn either way and then stop. In one direction the loader will work. In the other direction it won't, only the lift and remote will work. The spool...

Am I wrong or are there only two lines from that block leading to the loader valve?

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So is this guy still working on it, or have you moved on from there?

https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/newhollandag/haytools/mowers/nabh56mow340disc/disc-mower/attachmentsheaders/gearbox-assy-2008-and-earlier/cn/57BE66CC-B8BF-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6/AAF8724F-E6BE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6

First check the oil level in the main gearbox. If that's okay and looks all right, you may have an issue in the gears just below it. The gear box fluid is sealed at the bottom, but the shaft, gear, and bottom bearing don't run that oil. They are in separate sealed box packed with the same grease...

Probably. But Why?

Seems that certain Besko valve controls are of suspect quality. I think I've seen more than one complaint about broken linkage components. https://www.tractorforum.com/threads/mahinder-besko-2638l-loader-valve-repair.46139/...

Yes

This one's cheaper. https://tractorpoint.com/pdf/Long-Service-Manual-360-460-510-series.pdf

The concept you're describing works. I've done it many times, only I use a 250 ohm resister. I do use a switched circuit to supply the resister. I can't say it's necessary, I just don't feel comfortable wiring it live. I have no idea why Ford engineers decided to include the battery temp...

I ran into that problem a few years ago with a Workmaster 75. Same Iskra alternators that didn't last two days. I ended up putting one of these on it. https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/new-holland-ford-tractor-alternator-5640-6640-7740-7840.html Same frame style, fit right on. I think I...

No, you're not the only TC owner to experience this, and for what it's worth, there are Kubotas out there doing the same thing. Probably other brands as well. That return line connection is not a "new Holland only" concept. Your "heating the fuel" theory may hold some water, but I see many newer...

What I mean by "flashing" is to touch the wire terminal to ground for just a split second, don't hold it there until you know the needle won't fly to to the full mark, smack the peg, and possibly damage something. Some gauges can take that others can't. It depends on the internals of the gauge...

Typical test for a fuel gauge problem is to remove the wire from the float unit, turn the key on, and "flash" it to ground. If the gauge and related wiring are good, the needle will move towards full. Have you tried that? I never ground the wire and hold it until I know for sure the needle...

I'm not sure about that. I'm no Deere expert. In fact I try to stay away from anything that's both Deere and computer related. Wiring diagrams can be scarce, since Mother Deere gradually eliminated public access to them. Yours is old enough it may have escaped that, but who knows? I doubt it's...

Since you're into checking and testing, how about the shuttle switch? Have you tested that?

You don't know you need a new one if you haven't tried to adjust it. Try tightening the nut under the disc a few turns first and see what happens.

"as if I had turned the key" You can't rule out electrical problems. Have you confirmed you have 12 volts to the injection pump?

I keep going back to logic of the return line to begin with, and then to the logic of a check valve. Why would there be excess fuel in a filter base that operates under vacuum from the supply pump? If it were me, I would snip the hose and plug both open ends. Then see what happens.

https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/newhollandag/category/batteries-accessories/battery-cables-connections/cabls-batry-cnctrs/cable/p/86572246 Try this number. At that price you must really want it. I think you can find a new cable somewhere for less than that.

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I don't have a service manual, but I suspect there's a good chance you may have problems with shift linkage rather than internal transmission parts. Look this over and see if it appears to match your tractor. try removing some of the panels around the steering column and see if you find anything...

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It might be an option, yes, but a mighty expensive one. It may include all the factory steel lines, banjo bolts, joystick, cables, brackets for same, along with a sizable price tag. It wouldn't be the direction I would take, but it's your choice. Once you get the word on price and availability...

"Pumping fuel while cranking"? Assuming that means pumping out the bleed vent on the injection pump, not to the injectors? Yes/no? You replaced fuel shut off solenoid, and of course verified that there is battery voltage TO said solenoid while cranking?

What do you mean by "linkage is tight"? Like zero free play in the pedal, or the resistance when operating the pedal feels like you think it should/shouldn't?

I'm betting the blockage (if that's what it was) was more likely on the fuel tank to filter side, and the suction from the supply pump pulled air from the return line into the filter base. Seems more likely to me than the return line being somehow blocked.

The earlier post from dlctcg describing an experience with a similar (if not the same) problem, in which it was stated that it was solved by basically removing lines, etc, and thoroughly blowing everything out. Apparently no parts were actually replaced. Sounds pretty similar to what you've...

If I were fighting this, my next move would be to remove the bowl and filter. Remove the problematic return line from the filter base and blow some air into fitting it came off of, mainly to see if it connects to the inlet side of the filter element or the outlet side. That probably makes no...

I would be looking at the passages that involve the return line from the filter base leading up to the tee. I've never understood the need for that port. Most all the tractors I see with that type filter base have no such vent or return line involved. It's just fuel into one port, fuel out of...

I have to wonder if this is a "suddenly developed" problem, and has something involving hydraulics been recently added or changed?

Makes more sense than replacing the lift pump.

As I see it for the lift pump to be the problem, it has to be trying to pull fuel through the filter faster than fuel can enter. The injection pump demands nothing. It has no vacuum or suction. Those engines survive quite well without supply pumps, just on gravity feed alone. No matter how I...

I think I would start with the key switch. If you can get it out far enough to reach the back side of it with a test light ( I much prefer working with a test light than a voltmeter) terminal 30 should be battery lead. It's powered from a 40A slow blow fuse probably near the starter battery...

I guess I don't understand your logic. I thought the fuel routing from the tank went to the filter first, then to the supply pump, and on to the injection pump from there. Maybe I'm wrong on that?

It's not a 2510, more likely a 2010. Early sixties vintage. There might be more demand if if it were a diesel, but I certainly agree that you should at least TRY to market it. Even if it doesn't run, if the engine is free and turns with the starter, it's mostly complete so it surely is worth...

Most of the TZ series tractors had an inline fuel filter behind the left rear tire. Has that been changed lately? Most owners didn't know it was there until fuel starvation problems came up. As I recall the best way to access it is by removing the tire.

The only switches I see in the diagram are on the clutch pedal and the PTO switch/lever. Trying to make sense of a fine line, tiny print diagram with limited eyesight is sketchy at best, but as I see it the key "on" position supplies power to/through the PTO switch, then through some various...

I have a reprint of the 1260 service manual (much the same tractor) that has a wiring diagram covering the 1240, 1250, and 1260. It's pretty fine print and hard to follow, but If you like I can work with you on it, and maybe get you sorted out.

Most all of the Ford tractors of that size from '65 on used a similar shut off tap. Yes it has (or at least had) a screen in the fitting up inside the tank. Your problem is not at all uncommon. I won't claim to have the "best way" to solve it, but what I do is first siphon as much fuel as...

What exactly about your tractor is "the same problem"? As for solenoids, there could any number of them depending on what options your tractor or transmission came with. Does this look familiar...

Look at your fuel lines. Mahindra tractors of that vintage used lines that had steel on both ends with banjo fittings. The center portion was hose with steel mesh around it and crimp sleeves connecting the hose to the steel. When I find air ingestion problems with those lines I cut the sleeves...

The single spool valve in his photos proves there is no engine driven pump. The internal gear pump will supply 7 + GPM. Lots of those tractors with loaders on them, they get by well enough.

From his photos, it is an eight speed. Doesn't really matter though, the hi/lo is basically the same with either. If his problem is back there he still has more digging to get to it.

The gasket would have little or nothing to do with it. Now the cover is off, you see the shift gate and rail are intact. The problem must be in the hi/lo itself. With the spring and detent plungers loose you can easily shift any of the rails by hand, so what does the hi/lo rail feel like? In...

No, pretty straight forward. I usually hose it down well with brake cleaner and compressed air in the process, so the new disc rides on clean, dry surfaces. Put it all back together and tighten the nut until the lever stays where you put it, then another turn or two so it's good and stiff.

Where is it? It's right on top of the transmission, under the steering column and all that. The casting with two shift levers sticking up and the transmission filler plug you mentioned earlier. You don't know where that is?

If that's the case, it may be the issue has something to do with the end of the shift lever, the gate it fits into, or the bolt securing the to the rail. You might be able to remove the lever by first removing the roll pin holding it into the casting, but it probably won't gain much except a...

If it's the same tractor then you should be looking here. https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/newhollandag/tractors/compact/naba17com0553cyl/3-cyl-compact-tractor-20-series/cn/1DEA724F-E6BE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6

Excuse my ignorance here, but if the tractor is a Ford (new Holland ) 1220 why are you looking at Japanese parts diagrams?

I don't think it will be that simple if the problem is with the hi/lo portion. Whether it's a six speed or eight speed, the hi/lo shift rail is on the far right side and can't be accessed through the filler plug opening. Can you feel the detent when you shift from hi to neutral and back again...

Common problem with tractors such as yours is drive shaft splines and snap rings not keeping couplers in place. Have you checked that. Usually the front one.

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I believe you're wrong with that assumption. The T1510 is pretty much the same tractor, but it has no steering reservoir. It joins the steering pump suction line to that of the hydraulic pump.

If the oil quality and/or moisture is affecting your steering, it would also affect the rest of the hydraulics. Any problems there? I would revisit the symptoms before wasting all that fluid.

Suggestions? Start with a set of gauges. You need information on what's happening within the system, not just an absolute first guess. Air conditioning repair isn't really "homeowner maintenance". If you're going to just guess at what's going on, you'd be better served to find someone with...

That does look like the same package. I'm still betting the problem is the fit of the shaft through the support housing. That assembly should come off (after draining the oil) with no fear of anything internal falling out of place. You can then work on getting it apart, cleaned, lubed, etc on...

I think what you have here is probably not a major problem, parts or expense wise. I suspect though, that you'll have get "down and dirty" with it before you're done. I'm guessing the problem is mainly rust, crud, you name it buildup between the shaft (shift lever entry into transmission...

I'm not suggesting the hole or the fender moved, merely that something in all that linkage may have changed. What I see in the diagram looks like the panel with the slot offers very little extra on the length of the slot. If you had more travel on the lever, then things down below may work better.

The parts list shows a slotted tin plate the handle fits though. Can you remove that plate and gain some stroke with the lever? That might show you something. Maybe the fender still limits the travel, I can't say. It also shows a roll pin through two parts that apparently fit through the center...

Okay, you're on track now.

I can't comprehend a $265 seal kit for that size cylinder, but hey it's your money. Spend it as you see fit. Post a few pictures of the "business end" of the cylinder so we can see what you're working with. There aren't all that many designs. If nothing unscrews, then it probably has snap...

Assuming you have totally ruled out the possibility of loose rim to center dish bolts, right?

You don't need to mess with anything other than the ports on diverter valve body. If you hook it up right, the oil flow will go to the loader valve first, then back into the lift system. The sump port will come into play only when actually using the loader. Don't disturb anything on the tractor...

If they aren't marked, you can figure it pretty quickly with compressed air. Start by shutting the tractor off and lowering the lift arms. Then put a pan under the valve block, and remove the three plugs. Now move the lift control lever to full raise. Turn the spool with a screwdriver. It...

You're convinced the coolant is actually as hot as the gauge says it is?

One more word of advise. If you have fuel in the oil, DON"T worry about finding a seal to correct that. Plan on removing the pump, sending/taking it somewhere and have the pump work done right. Getting it off and back on, with some help if needed, you can do. The pump itself, you're not ready...

I see. I hope you have better luck than I'm expecting. I'd say the odds of someone reading your message and actually having a similar machine, built for only a couple years some twenty or so years ago are probably pretty slim. I do however, have a few ideas on some options you might consider if...

https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/newhollandag/tractors/attachments/naba05att094mower/ford-light-duty-flail-mower/complete-machine/blades-carrier-drive-parts/cn/9648B1CD-B8BF-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6/27FF724F-E6BE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6 Could this be it?

Sorry, I just had to ask. I still wonder where you came up with that.

Electric driven pump? How would that work?

I have a few questions on this problem myself. I'm not quite sure on the supply of brake fluid on these tractors. I suspect it's part of the steering return flow but I can't confirm that. With a gear drive transmission, there are no clutch packs to supply, so other than transmission lube what...

I think it might be best to determine where the problem is before deciding who will fix it. While the brake shafts and bearings might well be somewhat rusted or stuck, the brake cam in the rear is also suspect. You might try removing a few cotter pins, disconnecting some linkage, and then see if...

Diff lock was an option. Not all tractors were equipped with it.

It could have been this guy right here. https://www.amazon.com/230-235-245-231-240/dp/B011VANCB6 Breaking that is not unheard of. Was it pulling very hard?

He's been told that before, but I guess he didn't believe it.

There is no external adjustment screw on this box. There is nothing under it either. If you have play internally, there isn't much you can do from the outside. I wouldn't suggest tearing too deeply into it without the appropriate manual. (of course your choice there) This is what it looks like...

Possible maybe, but doubtful. I'm more curious about your return plumbing. You have a power beyond port but it's not being used? What's in that port? The plug visible in your photo? This is just that, a plug? What does the inside of the valve body look like with the plug removed? Is there a...

I don't know about kits, I work primarily one step at a time. Decide what's needed, source the valve(s), fittings, couplers. etc. Fabricate what I need that can't be sourced. Sometimes I make the hoses as needed, sometimes I use ready made hoses, depending on space, price and what's available...

I'm not at all familiar with tractor mounted winches, but is this something one operates while standing behind the tractor, or from the seat? Assuming you looking to add a single spool valve to the existing tractor hydraulics to power this? Is that basically all that's required here? If that's...

You won't get much help until you provide more information. You may know very little about hydraulics, and probably know even less about the hydraulics on this tractor. You obviously found a way to send pressure to your new loader valve, but how/where did you plumb the return? That must be...

Explain what you meant by "disconnect". If you're referring to the missing lift links etc, that's one thing. If it's the hydraulics portion, that's another. If hydraulics are the issue, I'd be looking at how the loader was plumbed, and how that plumbing was changed. It's quite possible the...

I don't know if I agree with all that. I've been cutting hydraulic tubing such as this and doing custom work on them for years. I've had no problems from it. You don't know what his new pump is, what style/size ports it has, or anything else about it. No need to dictate what he can or can't do...

I can't help but ask why do you feel the need to do this? Is there damage to the tube?

I doubt this was caused by simply lifting the three point. The first post indicates an auger (possibly stuck?) in the ground and attempts to free or redirect it. We don't have the full story here but the tractor was probably moving in one direction or another in that attempt so the forces...

The part is less than $150. Why would seriously consider welding it? It fits more than just your tractor, you might find a good used for even less.

Well, you're right about splitting the tractor. You PROBABLY haven't done any expensive damage, but who knows? Most likely all that happened was a sheared bolt. Just a grade 8 3/8" bolt, 2 1/2" or so in length. That's what secures the fork to the shaft you can now move easily by hand. It may...

Something's grounded that shouldn't be, yes. Both the solenoid and the wax motor should have power with the key on. There is probably a fuse somewhere between the key switch and the pump. Have they been there yet?

The wires on the injection pump aren't grounds. Check them again. Not the one on the big cylinder on the side, but the one closer to the top that's hardest to reach. That will be the shut off solenoid. No power there and it won't run.

Are you saying it won't compress far enough, or you can't compress it with one hand and start the screws with the other? I had a similar problem on another tractor, same type of steering column shock absorber. I was able to push it in far enough, just couldn't keep it there long enough. I...

It DOES have a two stage clutch. And it doesn't operate with the clutch pedal. It has a hand operated lever that simply goes over center to engage the PTO portion of the clutch by pulling on a cable. That cable is the most likely source of problems. At least it has been on all the Workmasters...

Good question on the thermister. I don't know the purpose either, but I don't think it's in the starter circuit. I was under the impression it had to do with something fuel related. Shutoff solenoid, or that sort of thing. Maybe some who knows will straighten us out on that. As for the starter...

He said the starting problem involves the starter not working. Doesn't sound like "spinning fast but not starting". I'm no Deere expert, but I wasn't aware that any 40 series tractors used a thermister. Always good to learn something new.

Many possibilities, some already mentioned. It starts when it's cold, but not when it's hot? No click or any starter related action? If I were faced with that situation, what would I do? Wait until it does it again, then go fishing with a volt meter? With a hot starter on a hot engine, and...

I see nothing on a T1350. I suspect it's actually a T1530. The gear drive version with independent PTO is not controlled with the clutch pedal. It drives from the flywheel so that follows with your first post. It also appears to be controlled with a manual valve connected to a lever. Not a...

What is a T1359?

I could be wrong but I'm not sure how much of that applies to tractors built twenty years ago. I wonder if the same universal standards of today's symbols would have been in use then. Maybe.

I'm just wondering if there might be someone out there familiar with the warning lights and what they indicate. The tractor in question is a 1225 with hydrostatic drive. Any takers?

Yes. I missed the pressure line, thinking the port with the plug was the only one on that side. What's missing is the power beyond sleeve. All that's there is a fitting now. Both ports are joined internally and connected to sump. Hence no pressure to lift system. At least that's my take on it.

I think you're confused on a couple of different fronts. First of all, the 5902 valve plate doesn't have power beyond simply by virtue of three ports. The 4902 is also for power beyond, it merely forces you to find a third (sump) port somewhere else. Should one choose to ignore that, connect...

Easier than you think. Remove the cab floor plate and the lines are in plain view. I think the lines are J.I.C. on both ends.

The hoses in question are not for a remote valve. The reason they are under pressure is they are connected to the load monitor system this tractor is equipped with. It will be involved with the three point. I believe you can remove the hoses and cap the fittings without issue. After all, the...

On many Massey tractors of that era had externally regulated Delco alternators. The fuel gauge was powered from pin 4 on the regulator. If the system isn't charging there is no power to pin 4 (so no fuel gauge operation).

I doubt the fluid you saw came from the standpipe. With the small plate off, the standpipe is connected only to the pump. Another port an inch or so away from the standpipe leads to lift cylinder and that would be where the fluid came from. With the cover off the fluid in the lift cylinder is no...

Well for openers, the internals of most injection pumps,(at least the pumping units of the inline pumps) are very particular about clearances and clearance tolerances. That's only ONE reason why pump shops keep their work environments spotless. That allows them to lay things out, assemble parts...

Maybe you could elaborate a little on what exactly "swapped out O rings" actually amounts to. In my experience disassembling and reassembling injection pumps is not a homeowner type of repair. No offense, but if that's where you are, it's no surprise that it won't run.

Just opinion here, but if it were mine I would lean heavily toward the long shaft and forget the center bearing. I see way too many times where inexperienced operators try to turn too sharp with an old Woods mower with that center bearing setup. It simply will not take tight turns. The shaft...

I would bet your problem isn't hydraulic at all. The bushings where the rock shaft fits through the lift housing are filled with crud. The shaft is simply stuck in the bushings. I ran into that problem once. I had to remove the lift housing, turn it over and press the shaft out. Cleaned the...

Lots of 40 series tractors develop that issue, the SLE probably more so than the others. You're sure it's not the alternator itself or the battery temp sensor circuit? If that's the case you can spend a great deal of time tracing all the possibles, many of which are behind the dash/steering...

To me it sounds more like the ground cables are still bolted to metal parts which are in turn bolted to the tractor. A known problem area getting good current flow. Longer ground cables bolted to the engine block solves a good many of those particular symptoms.

Check your PM inbox.

You might search this number for openers. 718347013 kit. If you can find one it should be around $1200 or so by the time you get it home. If that suits you, great. If not, there are some less expensive options. Your choice.

Does the new valve have three lines connecting it to the tractor? If so, did it come with (or did you also order) the correct power beyond sleeve and install it when you hooked up the lines? My first guess is that the problem is somehow related to that.

Deal.

I have no doubt that I could make that work. Yes, I would need to locate and study a wiring diagram for your particular model/version (as there are probably more than one). Depending on the complexity of the module you're bypassing it may require an extra relay added somewhere, but probably not...

The port is (or was) 3/8-16. I doubt tapping it to 3/8 - 24 will work. You would need to go larger than 3/8 since there will be little left to tap. Not to complicate things, but you might consider going to 10mm if you can find a short enough bolt that size. Taps are available. The biggest...

100% way of checking it? Not likely, other than trying a different unit or trying your unit on a different tractor. Neither option is very appealing, I know. Again, it's your call. I'm not interested in putting anyone's kid in danger, but there are ways of circumventing these modules without...

The information I have states the signal wire from the key switch is labeled 385 green on the wiring diagram. I hope to get out there tomorrow and hopefully get something accomplished.

$537 and you're still playing a guessing game that it's the component and not the mating connector. I would need to be 100% in love with the safety controller concept to go that route. You know the tractor starts when the "connection" is right. I would be inclined to simplify some of the...

Pushing the key in is the trick I'm looking for. This tractor currently has no grid heater, but I'm adding one. The instructions mention connecting the wires (power and ground) that trigger the relay, once installed, and where to find them. Or at east where they SHOULD be. I'm trying to...

I'm not sure they are the same in this regard. Maybe so. What I'm currently working on is a 5303. The information I have covers tractor models through 5x10. apparently at 5x20 and 5x25 something in there changed, not sure yet just what, but somehow the wiring must be different. So on your...

I understand that, but it doesn't help explain how, on this particular tractor model/series, does the operator activate it when attempting a cold start. That's what I'm after here. Not so much the concept of grid heaters on tractors in general.

A question for anyone with a 5x00. 5x01, 5x03, 5x05, or 5x10 tractor with a manifold grid heater. What activates the heater on your tractor? Is it a position of the key switch? A separate button somewhere? A timer that starts each time the key switch is turned on?

Your assumption is correct. Swing the battery out and look at the intake manifold on the engine side just a few inches from the air cleaner hose connection. It's just below the battery tray support bracket.

The value of any tractor has to be based on more than the condition of the PTO clutch. You would need a lot more information than that.

Wow! I can't believe this has gone on this far. Typically, I glance through the day's posts, and look for anything that looks interesting. Usually not much, I might add. Any threads with more than four or five replies I don't even look twice at because they often have a bunch of replies from...

Okay, but I'm not sure how that applies to what this discussion is about.

You can stand by that if you wish, but I have yet to see a control valve that doesn't have at least an O ring on each end. Those are placed there to seal only low pressure, and the area behind them is open to the return passages of the valve body. They aren't expected to be subject to working...

I'm aware of the loop line, but that's not the point. If the three point is not used while the backhoe valve is connected, then it makes no difference, I agree on that. However I don't know how his hoe mounts. Some backhoes are mounted on the three point, so it's possible to apply a load on...

I don't think so based on his photos. It looks like the power beyond port of the remote valve leads to the backhoe supply line and the return must go to the lift system. At least that's what I got from the pictures. Maybe I'm wrong. Maybe the lift isn't operable with hoe attached? Some are, some...

https://crossmfg.com/parts/valves/ba-bc-series-valves/power-beyond-option Maybe this will help. If you look at your current two spool valve you will see it has three lines. That's the way any series plumbed open center valve should be. If you add another valve in series with with you now have...

I see. I guess I was a bit confused because after reading all the posts on this thread I didn't see where his advice entered in. Maybe I missed it. And maybe I just got the impression that many of those who post on this (or perhaps any) forum are mostly inexperienced, unqualified, or their...

Does your tractor have power steering? That ties in here as well. As I see it, the loader is (soon to be was) operated with the factory remote valves. The power beyond port of that valve now supplies the backhoe circuit. The hydraulic pump outlet is connected to a hose leading where currently...

The 5220 is Japanese. It has nothing Deutz or air cooled about it. Are you aware of that?

Your new valve will have three ports connected to the tractor. How many ports does your old valve have, and how are they connected now?

And so who is "him" that's so knowledgeable?

Sounds like an excellent plan to me. The hydraulic pump suction line on anything should have the fewest possible points for air ingestion as possible.

Your problem is far more likely to be a piston seal leaking than anything in the valve. When it gets to be too annoying to tolerate then plan on replacing the seals. It's not that big of a job. There are ways to determine if it's just one or both cylinders. Different people have different ideas...

5220 no start These forums never seem to amaze me in that one gets so many replies from people who know nothing about the tractor in question. There is nothing but gravity feed to the injection pump on that tractor. You know that, but obviously they don't. You're bleeding at the injectors...

I have no idea where this person got that, but who knows? As I stated earlier, I'm no expert on this system and won't claim to be. I can say I've learned enough to have solved all the problems I've run across so far. My understanding is the standby (or working) pressure is isolated from both...

I'm by no means an expert on this system, but my feeling is that Mother Deere didn't put that check valve in there just so people could guess at it's purpose. I would suspect that without it, over a long enough period of time, much of the fluid in both the surge tank and even the pump could...

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I think most people are surprised at your last question. What you have now is no doubt a two spool valve. One spool for each function, so a replacement whether it's dual handle or joystick type will also need to be a two spool. No larger than a 10 GPM for your application.

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So it's a diverter, and not "full third function". I say SO WHAT? My opinion, this a better option. You operate the grapple with the joystick, same as the the other functions. You control the speed of the action. Solenoid valves are either on or off, no "in between". Full flow or no flow. Yes...

I believe you should indeed be unhappy with that package. I must assume they installed it, then delivered the tractor, and you had no idea this is what they intended? I think you need to discuss this with the dealer, and have that redone correctly. As stated earlier, the valve should not be out...

Blow by isn't a cause of anything. It's merely an indicator. If you have piston skirt/piston ring/cylinder wall scuffing/scoring, or just natural wear, the blow by increases. All that affects compression. That's one reason why a compression test can help identify differences in performance...

I admit that sounds like more than a bad glow plug. This is a relatively new condition I take it? Does it have a lot of hours on it and/or any more blow by than before you noticed this? I guess the injection pump could be suspect as well, that type pump has been know to produce some unusual...

I wonder how long does it take to clear up? It runs fine with usual power? I can't see where pulling the head is going to show you much. If you have ring problems you will need to go much deeper than that, and if there's nothing scary in the motor oil, I wouldn't go there just yet. Injectors...

Assuming you have checked and cleaned the strainer with little or no improvement? I would suggest before removing the pump you loosen the mounting bolts on the output line on top of the pump. Don't remove them, just back them out two or three threads, then start the engine and let it run a few...

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I've been working on a little 850 over the last couple weeks, mostly for other issues, and have noticed a similar problem with one brake. I'm not sure that brakes locking up for no reason is all that common with these tractors but this one appears to be no more than rust/crud buildup where the...

Well, first impressions, no free play is an excellent reason for a "moves sometimes, sometimes not" or "only moves in lower gears" type scenario. By no means anything new here, regardless of tractor make/model. Locate your clutch linkage adjustment. It's probably a turnbuckle or maybe just a...

Not to beat a dead horse here, but what about the free play? Yes/no?

I would guess your problem is more clutch related than hydraulic. I would also guess you have little or no free play on the clutch pedal?

It seems a number of people are confused about grounding problems. It's a single wire circuit right? That means it's self grounding, so why search for another one? If you remove the wire (removing 12v source) the engine stops. How is that a grounding problem? What you have is a problem in the...

No, that does not make sense. A bad or failing throw out bearing will make noise when IN use (pedal down or partially down). With pedal up, the bearing is out of play and will most likely be silent. If your statements are correct, the throw out bearing is not the problem.

My, we're pretty secretive about the purpose of the lever, aren't we?

So this diverter valve came with the steering assembly, came from the same supplier, or came from somewhere else entirely? Hope you come back once it's up an running tell us how it all worked out.

Your question involves the bolt/nut threaded into the casting containing the front pivot bushing? If so it's there to adjust the end play on the axle assembly. The business end of the bolt contacts a thrust type washer which in turn contacts the front of the axle unit. The combination limits...

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If it's the multipower transmission and or has independent PTO it will be a split torque. Non multipower tractors with live PTO have the dual clutch. There is a cover under the bell housing held on with four bolts. With cover removed you can see the clutch through the exposed opening.

The AGCO online parts website is less than ideal, no question, but it's better than nothing. The books listed for the 1250 show a few different versions, based on serial number range and transmission type. Assuming yours is a standard gear drive, no HST or power shuttle? Have you tried that...

Solenoid is under the right side foot plate. The pressure line from the hydraulic pump runs to a square type block with the solenoid valve threaded into it. The block contains a pressure regulator valve as well as the PTO valve. It's a simple 2 wire coil, power and ground, which when energized...

I've been searching online for specs (GPM) of the auxiliary couplers that supply hydraulics to mounted attachments. Whether it's for standard or high flow, I keep coming up empty. All I can find is pump flow is 24 GPM. Can anyone tell me what the flow might be at the externals?

I know. Try again.

1710 remote valve? I've done this so many times I can't count them. All you need is a valve, some hoses, some fittings, a pair of couplers, and some hardware. This form is being a pain. You can e mail me at stillplayswithtractors@gmail.com I can explain it better there.

There's really not much to make, except for whatever support/bracket you need for the valve to bolt to, and maybe something to attach your couplers. Check your PM inbox.

Adding a single spool valve to that tractor is a relatively simple matter. That is unless you want all factory parts, levers, lines, etc, and expect it to look all original. Then it could get complicated. If you just need a practical way to put a set of couplers on the back then it's not bad at all.

A quick look at JD parts site for injectors, Central Equipment lists the price at $560 each. Might be different based on engine serial number, but that's a spendy experiment either way.

See. You're smarter than you thought you were.

Yours is not an uncommon problem, I've seen it many times. Many of the cylinders used on such implements are actually double acting units with one port simply acting as a vent. The piston seals are often just an O ring with a couple backup rings, not a true piston seal. If you have installed new...

For what it's worth, the hydraulic pump has two sections, one high pressure for lift and remotes, an a smaller low pressure section for the PTO. When you get the lift cover off you will find the low pressure supply hose from the pump leading up to the PTO valve. Get the PTO clutch/valve assembly...

Thank you

Not that it helps any with your problem, but can you describe the location of and/or the access to the neutral switch?

I'm currently in the middle of a wing gearbox and would like to hear from/communicate with anyone that has been through one before. This is only the second one I've seen apart and don't really understand the logic of the lower bearing/seal configuration. Looks like I need to construct some...

Was looking at a 5303 today with the complaint of very hard starting in cold temps. I was looking for a place to install a block heater but didn't see anything that appeared to be a likely spot for one. Parts book shows a listing for one as an option, but the drawing next to the part number...

I have some questions concerning the three point lift controls on a 5103 straddle mount tractor. I have the PDF service manual (courtesy of JoeCDeere) on the 5420. I've been looking through that, but I'm not sure if the two systems are similar or not. Can anyone say for sure if the lift system...

Has anyone(or anyone you know) purchased one of these "add on" or "conversion" power steering kits? If so, what kind of success did you have with it? Did it come with any instructions, parts I.D. or any paperwork? Ford / New Holland Power Steering Conversion Kit 2 3 36 361 4 |...