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How do you extract copies of the reports from the videos ?

Thanks for the Messick's link. I was on their page but was unable to find the parts diagram. They certainty don't give those filter away, pretty costly (120+ for both).

I believe I have located both of the filters. The large one is behind the right rear wheel and the smaller one is on the left side of the engine in front of the firewall. I need to verify each of them to be sure.

Where is the best place to drain this to ensure I get most of it out ?

A follow up to all of this is; I thought that the hydrostatic and the hydraulic were different systems, but that may not be the case here. It has now leaked enough fluid so that the tractor will not move, nor does it even sound or feel as if it is pumping. So I guess I'll replace both filters...

Thanks for the WIX data and the heads-up on the WIX Filter Finder. I searched a bit and I managed to find the WIX Filter Finder page. Each drop-down selection is a bit long in the tooth but I managed to find the same data that you supplied, it's very helpful.

To tell you the truth, my plan was to buy a bucket or two of the low grade oil from Tractor Supply (about $40 a bucket) to rinse the system and then dump it. First on the list, though, is to repair the leak at a hydraulic block on the right side of the engine, how the fitting loosened up enough...

OK, I need to change the Hydraulic Oil and Filter on/in my TC33D, the current system is extremely contaminated with water, so I need a little info. I checked the price of the oil at the local dealer and it's about $150 bucks for a 5 gal pail, that's pretty absurd. Tractor Supply's...

No Power Follow Up ! It seems as if I took a couple hundred voltage and continuity checks in the attempt to solve my no power problem. All to no avail. I stopped off at the local New Holland dealer (H&M Amsterdam, NY) and discussed the issue at length. I left there with a new ignition...

I spoke a little to quickly. I had looked at it and I thought I had a similar one in my paper work from the Repair Manual. I do not. The one you provided is a much more complete schematic/wiring diagram of the entire system than what I have. I'll need to look at it some more and compare it...

I looked at it. I have that one in my 3-ring binder. It's one of the better ones. I'll use it once I open up the dash/console. Maybe later today, if time permits. I've got chimney work going on that I need to keep an eye on.

I didn't know that there were relays that were the same. I can try that once I open up the console area..

I have not taken the console or knee panels off yet so I have not taken any voltage measurements there. There is however voltage at each fuse location in the fuse block and all of the fuses are good.

I do have some schematics, those in the owners manual and the repair manual. They about the worst designed/laid out schematic/wiring diagrams I have ever had to deal with. They look as if they were drawn on napkins and then taped together to form a complete diagram.

I was able to take a few voltage measurements at the Fuse Block with the fuses removed. Each fuse location measured +12 Volts with the Ignition Key in acc/run position and 0 volts with the key off. That should indicate that the +12 Volts is passing through the Ignition Switch to the Bus Bar as...

There is zero volts present from Neg Post to the frame.

As I noted in my write up. NO lights are working. The 15.7 is with the charger connected so I guess it is supplying the large excess over 12. I did measured it with the charger off when I first started this merry-go-round and it was well above 12 but I don't remember exactly what it was. In...

The tractor was running fine when parked. I returned a couple days later to be greeted by what appeared to be a completly dead battery. There is absolutely no indication of power; - The Battery is fully charged (15.7 Volts), - I connected the Battery Charger and attempted to use the "200 Amp...

I have NH TC33D that I use to remove snow with in the winter (Blower in the front and Back Blade in the rear). In the winter the 3PH has almost always been a little slow to lower the back blade to the ground when I first start the tractor. The lowering speed increases after I use it a few...