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Finally put this one to bed. I had a guy come over with a skinnier closed-end wrench and a willingness to apply more force to squeeze the wrench between the by-pass tube and the sensor. After that he was able to remove the sensor without removing the by-pass tube. Back in business at last.

I'm managing to drag this repair out pretty long. To remove a defective cold start advance sensor you need to remove the bypass tube from the thermostat cover, a procedure briefly mentioned in the workshop manual for the JD 3029 engine. The attached diagram is the important part. My question is...

The resistance measurement was misleading, greater than 10 ohms, which wouldn't blow the fuse. It takes a higher current source to demonstrate the issue. The definitive check will be to disconnect the sensor and apply variable power to one of the leads. If there's current to ground then that's...

Yet more info here. Replacement part John Deere RE503242 is currently on Amazon.

Ok, it's the "cold start advance sensor". Found the name in this video describing the same problem. Theory of operation described here. Sounds like the short to ground occurs in the sensor itself.

I could use some more help with this. The short is not in the peripheral wiring. Instead the pump circuit itself is drawing too much power. There are two sub-circuits: one appears to be the main fuel-control solenoid, and is ok—powering this alone allows the tractor to start and run. The other...

I'll blame my assistant for thinking a visual inspection of the fuses was sufficient. I went back and tested them and sure enough one was blown. I replaced it and it promptly blew again. So now I've got a short to track down. Or I could opt for that bypass solution. But there is one other thing...

It appears that in the 550 as well as these later models there is a direct path for power through the ignition switch to the injection pump. I believe the safety interlocks prevent cranking of the engine, which is why I've been assuming they are not the issue. I've been bitten in the past when...

Much appreciated. The PDF schematic is a lot more readable than my paper manual and clears up some things. Although the 550 doesn't have a separate electric fuel pump, much of the circuitry is very similar.

Thanks for that. I was wondering if I could try applying—fused—power directly to the injection pump—after disconnecting the original wire—but want to be sure I won't fry anything.

This regards a TYM 550 that was running fine, then after sitting a couple weeks would crank but not fire at all. I replaced the fuel filter and bled it. The only thing I've found so far that seems suspicious is the lack of voltage on the single wire to the injection pump when the ignition is in...

My TYM 550 started overheating, so I'd like to pull the thermostat. But I cannot see how to get both bolts out of the cover, picture below. The arrows are where the bolts are. The upper right bolt has maybe just enough clearance from the exhaust connection for me to get a socket in there. But...

DR PTO trimmer: Generally good first impression I assembled the DR trimmer yesterday and plunged right into some challenging conditions. Here's what the open box looks like: The assembly was pretty simple, with just a few main pieces, including the three-point bracket, wheel, PTO shaft and...

It arrived today, but I'm in the middle of other projects so it'll be some days before my initial report. As you can see it comes in a big box on a pallet. The freight company docs say it's 311 pounds.

So DR recently came out with a PTO trimmer for less than $1000, and apparently it's very popular, with a five- to six-week wait. I'm interested, but the implement is spec'd for a Cat 1 hitch and mine is Cat 2. I just got off the phone with a nice lady from DR. But maybe it's a case of men are...