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The closest to what I'd potentially call a truck is my 3500, and even that is debatable. Since I made its flatbed easily removable and it's off every now and then, without it there's no cargo area and it becomes an incomplete vehicle again, like the door sticker says.

Well, I'm obviously aware of the differences, and that using full power (over twice of what my Cummins has, and about the same torque numbers) for extended periods with the 1500 isn't feasible in real life. If for no other reason that the 33 gallon tank would be empty really quickly.

No, thank God. It's already rated to pull far more than I think a 1/2-ton should.

Yes and no. I think it's largely a styling exercise. For example, my little 1500 puts out more power (on paper) than my 3500 Cummins does, and it has a relatively small grille. Then again, it doesn't have an intercooler, just a charge air cooler.

Okay, I'm getting an allergic reaction to these excessive mentions of "truck". Could we please refer to pickups as pickups and save "truck" for actual trucks? By the way, this has been festering for over two decades, when a neighbor called his S10 Blazer a "truck". And full disclosure: To me a...

Something you wish you could unsee.

I dunno. I have vehicles ranging from minuscule to weighing some 40,000 lbs., and from quite slow to (supposedly) able to reach 199 mph. Therefore I only trash the ones that makes little sense to own no matter how you look at it. Thankfully I'm not in the least opinionated, which helps.

Okay, I'll be giggling over that one for the rest of the day. And maybe some tomorrow, too.

Maybe some of this newfangled stuff isn't so bad after all? Like parking sensors.

It's far from a medium duty. Not even close. Keep in mind that while it says Heavy Duty on a Ram 3500, it's still a light duty in real life. Actually, I wouldn't even think about calling it a "truck", but the pickup it really is.

That the C&C has a narrower axle was one reason I like those over a pickup. All Gen 4 Rams have it as far as I know. My flatbed is probably meant for a SRW with the bed being just about even with the outside sidewalls. Of course, the trailers are wider no matter what, but the narrow bed helps...

Voluntarily, yes. But not too bad. Sold it to a friend for what the dealer offered as a trade-in. Could've obviously got more, but I got rid of it and my friend loves it. That's worth a few bucks.

It could also be because the new one isn't broken in yet. Not that it could've had anything to do with normal break-in, but my C&C ran extremely poorly at first - to the point that I ordered a pickup with the HO engine as a replacement. Well, when going to pick up the new one the odometer...

You must perform?

People do. That's how the infamous "dead pedal" discussions started. Apparently they can get it even with an empty pickup.

Come to think of it, the little pickup I drive by far the most often has manual windows, steering, brakes, and transmission. And no A/C.

That's why I generally order my vehicles. Start with the least expensive version, then add a few options as desired. Unfortunately, most things are in packages these days which is why I don't have a heated steering wheel, which I really would've liked to have. Freezing a bit at times is still...

I'd be fine with a crank for the driver's window, and an automatic can make it a little easier at times when towing. Although, I really liked the 18-speed in my Pete. A/C? Yeah, there are times when I end up in places where it's nice to have, but I wouldn't call it essential. In the tractor...

Meanwhile, my Titan palletforks are holding up well after several years of frequent use, both the 48" and the 60" versions. Sometimes I've tried lifting more than the loader will handle, but from 20' sticks of 6x6 0.25" square tubing, small cars, and full 325 gallon totes, they've done the job.

It sure seems like those with the derated engines generally use their Rams to pull more. To have over 1,000 ft.-lbs. of torque is probably more of a bragging right than having an actual use for such power. Besides, how often are those foot pounds accessible in real life? I'm guessing that the...

My guess is that they figure a C&C will actually be used for its intended purpose, where a pickup may never be subjected to more than getting a few sheets of plywood from Home Depot. So to ensure longevity they use a derated engine and the Aisin transmission. Which is what I have, and am quite...

In my case it's always the length and axle placement of the trailer that dictates how tightly I can turn, not the tow vehicle's cutting angle. Okay, the 359 Pete was an exception as it was a long wheelbase/short trailer combination with a lousy cutting angle.

Well, everything's relative. Between my girlfriend and I we bought 11 new vehicles within a year about two years ago. We both like powerful vehicles and a bit of a performance war started between us a few years ago. One I can't win since he has money. Anyway, last week it seemed like the...

I abandoned GM when they went to Inferior Front Suspension. Never did have enough tools or patience to own a Furd. Worked on too many of them to want one. Switched to Ram in '10, and we've had about 10 of them since. Very happy with them overall - even my "gutless" 3500 C&C with its derated...

Easily avoided if using the proper equipment, I think. Maybe even with the wrong equipment, by simply attaching to that horrible ball mount up at the receiver tube level. Safest would've been to use a heavy vehicle with a powerful enough winch. But I can't blame them for trying with what they...

I always look forward to snowfall, and the more the better. Largely because every time I use some sort of machinery to clear snow I get a little better at it. And I love learning.

A Ram 3500 Cummins CC longbed, two sets of wheels, and three sets of tires. Plus all the damn TPMS sensors. My back will hate me after the mounting and balancing sessions.

Umm, you obviously haven't heard, for example, Emily Compagno talk. Not only is she gorgeous, but also a lawyer. Best watched on Gutfeld, I think, where she can get a bit potty mouthy. Either way, she's most likely more intelligent and speaks better than you and I combined.

Aside from the absurdity of using chocks instead of proper tie downs, it would be hopelessly illegal on public roads.

Used that dozer blade off the HME to push snow out of the way every now and then, but ended up getting a snow pusher for the purpose. Replaced the rubber edge with a cutting blade so it can be used for "landscaping", too.

Not that it looks all that likely to happen in this case because of the placement in the rim, but I've had metal valve stems that were unnecessarily long on the inside puncture the liner of the tire. When running low pressures, that is.

You've never driven on a wet dry lake, or a sand bar in a river?

Okay, a valve stem can obviously be installed with the outside in...but how would you make it function? There are simpler ways to to plug a hole in a rim, if that was the main purpose.

I'm surprised you didn't notice that when first getting the machine, and checking fluid levels and things in general. Which you did, right?

The common SEE (some 2,800 made), and maybe an occasional HMMH (forklift/crane), but I seriously doubt they ever had an HME. Either way, this HME is likely less money than what they seem to want for a repainted SEE.

I have half your miles on a '17 3500 C&C, only used for towing. The only issue so far was completely self inflicted. Supposedly '16s and older can use a lot of distilled water in the DEF, and '18s and up will only tolerate so much. Well, nobody seemed to know about '17s so I tried putting the...

Okay, but don't overlook that it comes with a free Vermier trencher. One of those with low hours must be worth a few bucks, I'd think.

Would you believe that this one's for sale? It's an HME, by far the rarest of the three FLUs with 13 built, dozer blade up front and a trencher in the rear. There might be one more in the country, but I haven't been able to verify that. Heck, I'll throw in a set of Pewag MRAP chains, but...

Here's one that's used mostly for snow. With locking diffs it's quite capable, despite the crappy tires and no chains. Of course, it helps that it weighs 16,000 lbs.

Spacers? That's what I put on the little BX25D...mostly so it wouldn't blow over, but in the process it created room for tire chains.

I used to do that, but it got old (as did I) going to the not so nearby fuel station once a week or so and fill 10-12 cans. Actually, it was decanting the fuel that was a real pain. So I started buying in bulk, having it delivered. Now it's just like at the station, pull out the hose and...

That's when I appreciate the hydraulic lift cylinder, or that the implement has side to side hydraulics. Plus the extendable lift arm ends, of course. Those makes hooking things up easier no matter what.

"Chocking" could be code for tie downs. Hopefully.

If I indeed have to have it, I have yet to see any kind of evidence of it. Maybe the Star Tron (used Sta-Bil initially) takes care of it? No special filtration, never had any water come out when checking the standard Fill-Rite setup.

3. Back up straight to it at the correct angle. No need for a digging bar.

I didn't want to cloud the picture by also mentioning that I've had steel tanks exposed to the sun for years. Temp fluctuations? Check. It's not uncommon to have 50-degree swings in a day here. In general, from -10 to a bit over 80 during the year.

Not exactly work, but man is this thing nice to pull the little harrow with. Great suspension. It got worked a lot harder the first winter, when I was figuring out what it could and couldn't do.

Makes me glad I'm highly unlikely to drive anywhere near Richmond, VA.

The oldest fuel I've used was about 12 years old. It was treated with anti-gel, and eventually also Star Tron. It was in an OTR tractor's aluminum tank, outside but on the shady side. No issues. My Generac generator is fed fuel almost as old, but from a plastic tank that's in the shade. Same...

Had a valve freeze (and crack) right by a hydrant. Supposedly 80,000 gallons leaked out. Pulled the hydrant and it was barely moist down there.

Is it just me or aren't these things all over the place for about for $5K, or less, delivered? Looked that way last week when I Googled "mini excavator".

I have found every pipe, wire, and more, that I needed to find (and quite a few that I didn't) using a simple pipe finder. Basically a telescoping antenna with a very low friction handle, costing about $15 Downsides; it doesn't work well if it's windy, and you won't know what you found until...

I don't, but that's probably because I don't have one. Sure don't regret getting a 10-foot mower, being used to a 6-footer.

That stuff is only for commercial use here. I can be at 39,000 lbs. total (with a 25K trailer) on a basic drivers license since I only transport out own stuff. No CDL, no stopping at scales, etc.

I can often save some money by going a bit faster. One common place I go is 450 miles from here, where I drop off and/or pick up cars. If hitting the road somewhat early I can get there, do the paperwork with the sales guy, tie down the vehicle on a trailer, and be back home in time for a...

Imagined or not, there are lots of owner operators out there. And they drive whatever speeds they want/can. Not sure why you'd say that it's my imagination. Guess I can take photos next time...although with today's technology they could be altered. Looks like I'm losing this argument.

They're Hunter units. That road force balancing feature is what's really nice. Tired of substandard balancing jobs, even at places that has the right equipment. Just not competent operators. My usage varies a lot. I may not do any tires or balancing for months, and this coming week it'll be...

I sure don't regret getting a good tire machine and balancer.

Well, much like the terrain and weather, speed limits vary across the nation. When on an Interstate with an 80 mph speed limit I still stick to 80, getting passed by cars and some tractor trailers in the process. Nothing criminal about it. On the basic highways with 65 mph limits, is doing 80...

I try to keep it at 80, which is 2,000 rpm with my 3.73s. The engine seems to really like that rpm, thankfully. Yes, I'm definitely losing mileage by pushing the less than great aerodynamics, but as far as engine longevity goes I think a late model Cummins is far happier at 2,000 than at, say...

Same here. As long as a tow (or any) vehicle does what I ask from it, I'll feed it whatever it wants. And in my case, I could likely increase the mileage of anything I drive on roads by 20% or so just by slowing down. But, by going 20-25% over the speed limit, I get there 20-25% sooner. That...

My '17 Ram (C&C) gets around 10 mpg. Then again, I have no idea what it'd get without a trailer behind it. Or if I didn't drive too fast, and mostly in the Rockies. Ironically, that's not a whole lot better than what I used to get with the Pete, with much worse aerodynamics and more total weight.

I had a 1500 with the V6 for years. Not too far behind the Ecodiesel in mileage, and without the 15% failure rate. I know someone who has two of the damn things, and he's talking about buying a spare engine. Despite being part of the Ecodiesel cult.

I don't remember...how did we get from a measly Ecodiesel to vehicles actually suitable for towing?

A Cummins cab and chassis (which has the derated engine) pulls 25K just fine. But instead of going with a medium duty, I'd suggest looking at used Class 8s instead. Bought one years ago after finding out that both the vehicle itself and the parts were significantly cheaper. And after 20 some...

The real question is, will they burn as nicely as Teslas, the Jeep 4Xe, etc.? I know, I know. Just don't park them in the garage, or next to another vehicle, and don't get them wet. It'll be fine.

Probably because they (wrongfully) believe that they save gas that way. Getting into top gear quickly does save gas, though.

It's extremely simple to follow the turn by turn directions to here. It's one turn off the main highway (assuming they find the correct one - there aren't many around here) and one mile down the road. Yet people insist on using their GPS and generally end up 10 miles down the road. I've gotten...

Makes me wonder how you pronounce "pneumatic".

Out of three, the L3800 gets used the most often, because it's quick and nimble. But, there's a lot it simply can't do that the M6040 handles with ease. If one of those had to go, it'd be the L3800. Yes, many smaller jobs would take a little longer with the M6040, especially in tight quarters...

Also, it may take a few miles for a new trailer suspension to start moving somewhat freely. A run with a decent load should help with that.

If the trailer came with a full 80 psi in all tires and there's no load, it will react to any road imperfections. Ideally the trailer's pressure should be adjusted to match the load on the tires, just like with the tow vehicle. I doubt that the tow vehicle's suspension is at fault here, but...

Not necessarily true. My 32-foot PJ gooseneck rides great, whether empty or at a full 25K. Of course, I did order it with air suspension. Also not true is that 26K requires a CDL. I'm perfectly legal up to 39,000 lbs. (14K plus 25K) in this state. Anyway, I would try balancing those trailer...

I think I mentioned it earlier. but if not, you can get a Case 580 on the back of an ex-military Unimog for that kind of money, even today.

That's pretty much what I had expected. If I had a need for another tractor I would've bought one of them, but a larger model. And drained and refilled all fluids (front axle, too) before starting the engine.

I dunno. My girlfriend's Porsche Macan must've had two dozen switches in the center console, and maybe 10 on the door. Once learning which one did what they could be operated by feel, in theory anyway, without having to look at them. Now those rotary dials for shifting are just plain evil...

I hate touch screens with a passion, so all I really ask from them is to let me play the music I want to hear. With their complete lack of tactile feel they're useless and/or dangerous for someone that likes to drive fast on curvy roads. I can't afford to take my eyes off the road for long...

I can deal with that, but when getting an owner's manual for a late model vehicle and 5/8s of it is about how to install child seats and other useless nonsense it irritates me. And that over half of the remaining 3/8s are warnings that should only apply to people that shouldn't be driving it...

There, I fixed it for you. And by hot I mean it's 80 degrees or more.

When making about 100 gallons of stale gas usable again, it was well worth the cost of a few ounces of Star Tron, I think.

In my case it has almost always been LTL shipments, and the trucking company that handles the last leg must take pride in destroying stuff. That's not Titan's fault. One time I got a snow pusher that not only had the shipping beat on it hard, but one support strut was made wrong. They quickly...

Diesel seems to be perfectly good after 10+ years, if stored in a a reasonably well sealed tank/container. The main thing is to keep water out of the fuel, since water allows bacteria (what people generally call algae instead) to be able to grow in the tank. And if needing to use the fuel in...

Alright, not having oxygenated gas, and with water (condensation) not being an issue here, I'll keep using Star Tron since it sure seems to work well for me. Maybe in a humid environment the Star Tron Marine version would be better?

Speaking of snow... Removed the little mower and installed the salvaged Rhino blade for winter duty. As you can see, the blade itself isn't exactly as delivered. That's because somebody had bent the original blade, repaired (badly), and bent again a few times. But at $50, the price was right...

Add some MEK into it. That'll perk it right back up.

Two years is the most I've had regular StaBil in gas, and it worked. No stratification when I emptied the tank. But the gas was no longer potent enough for a couple of vehicles.

Alright. Does it seem to work better than the normal version?

Have never tried the marine version. How does it differ from the normal StaBil?

Hmm. I'm blissfully unaware of what's happening on You Tube. Instead, I go by the results of my own "testing". But I'm definitely open to any suggestions of better products yet. What seemed to be the problem with Star Tron in the You Tube setup? And what time periods were used. One winter...

That's when Liquid Electrical Tape comes in handy.

Titan can't control FedEx deliveries?!? The nerve.

As promised, hers is the one to the left.

Hah. Yeah, I know that some frown on it, but I have a box of badges from various cars, doing my best to make them appear like lesser models. For example, I had a Trackhawk, but it was really the most limited Jeep I've ever owned, so where the Trackhawk badge on the rear lid used to be, I put a...

Can't necessarily go by the badging. When she ordered that Turbo S I managed to (unbeknownst to her) check the "badge delete" box. So that one didn't even say "turbo", but was plenty quick and fast.

A 911 Turbo S is very close to a Challenger Hellcat in performance. The Challenger is understandably slower in 0-60, but supposedly wins in the quarter by few thousands. Naturally I had to point out to my girlfriend that she'd lose in a 1/4-mile race. She didn't like that. And she really...

Yep. Too easy to say "One of" I guess.

Why is it called a frame-off restoration when it's so much easier to take the body off the frame instead?

Got tired of constantly going to fill 8-12 cans, then manually fill stuff from them. Bought two 200-gallon tanks with pumps, one for gas and one for diesel. That delivered fuel is cheaper than going to get it in town doesn't hurt. And neither does my back..as much. But after not using my main...

If StaBil does anything for preserving the octane rating, it isn't much. That's why I switched to Star Tron, which seems to do a better job.

Nice! I made a very simple swing arm setup for a cut down trailer axle, then bought a cheap hydraulic cylinder for the height adjustment. As it turned out, the cylinder is really only used for transport, then set to rough height for moving dirt. Cutting depth is then fine tuned with the...

I had ethanol free 91 octane lose its potency after two years, and it was treated with StaBil. At this point I'm convinced that the container must be well sealed for the gas to stay good. The 200-gallon tank with the 91 was not, having the typical vented cap. When down to about 100 gallons...

StaBil will keep gas from having the ethanol and water separating out for at least two years, I've found. But it had lost its potency at that point. Which is why I went in search of something better and came across Star Tron. It apparently rejuvenates old gas, and after having successfully used...

I keep getting reminded of that people don't know the difference between OE (a part) and OEM (the manufacturer of the part).

Have had good luck with StaBil, but found Star Tron to be quite a bit better.

Alright, the first measurement from an 8-foot box blade isn't all that precise, as I don't think I got the angle finder centered on the curved cutting edge. Anyway, that one came out to 40 degrees from vertical. A little 4-footer came to 35 degrees. Sorry, but the 7-footer I couldn't get any...

The ones to the right are pepper trees, which burn quite well, and should indicated that the fire front came through somewhat quickly. Which makes sense since there was good clearance to the northeast...where the Santa Ana winds generally come from. Don't know if they survived, but looking at...

Start with the normal angle, whatever that is, it can always be changed with ease using a hydraulic top link. I can measure a couple tomorrow if you haven't found what "normal" is by then.

Well, it was my old house in California, not Hawaii, but that part doesn't really matter. The wildfire that ended up taking out the house a day after the fire blew over, and the following day the garage, apparently having left embers in both. So technically it was a wildfire that started the...

1. No, they're not nice to drive on paved roads like a car. But then, neither is a tractor. 2. Parts aren't any issue, yet anyway. There are a few places just here in the USA that do nothing but sell parts for them. 3. Agree. Most tractor tasks a proper Unimog will do better. 4. Yes, they do...

I dunno. That closest steel I-beam, about 18 inches tall and quite thick, is obviously bent from the heat. The far one survived much better. Yep, there was a Tesla under the bent one.

Ha! It's only a 1/4 mile, and practically flat. But there are other places near buildings and such where it's useful, plus I occasionally clear parts of the "horse roads". My main reason for using a snowblower is to be able to put the snow up to 60 feet away, where it won't be in the way, and...

Thanks. You probably shouldn't have talked yourself out of getting one, though. They're fun and quite capable. That was the first one I bought, but I suspect that the one tacticalturnip referred to is one I bought later, for parts, which turned out to be better mechanically than the one with...

Why settle for a "mini-Unimog" when the real ones can be quite affordable? Okay, I paid $16K for this one, but it came with all the hydraulic tools, which was nice. Then another 4 or 5K for the snowblower. And I had to convert the loader to SSQA, but that was affordable. Anyway, it works well...

Yup. I had a 359 Peterbilt and a custom built toyhauler (an ex dry van) for several years in CA. Tried every which way to not have it registered commercially, and failed. It was even insured as an RV the whole time. Eventually got away from the $1,600 registration fees and all the other...

I'm a bit angry with myself for staying there as long as I did. But on the other hand, now I appreciate the newfound freedom here even more. Much like moving to the USA in the first place.

Okay, then I did misunderstand your situation, thinking that you had to go get the tanks or the tractor filled. As far as the 325 gallon totes go, as mentioned, I'm having the fuel delivered so legality is not an issue. Besides, when wanting ethanol free 91 octane gas in one 200-gallon tank...

If I understand this correctly, you take either a tank or the tractor to get filled a couple of times per week? That sounds like work. I may only use it every two weeks or so, but sure like my pump equipped 200-gallon Lee Agra tanks, this one in a modified trash can enclosure, being replenished...

It wouldn't be hard to build a PTO powered trailer, using a basic live rear axle with reasonably correct gears, then fine tune it with tire height.

It sure does. I've been thinking about when flotation is the most useful, using my Jeep as an example. It's built very light and with wide bias ply tires it works quite well in sand, on at least partially frozen snow, and also in mud (if it's somewhat firm). It works because it can usually...

If you don't have rubber tires, yes you could.

Okay, far better flotation in the rear, but what about the even smaller and narrower front tires?

After doing tire testing for several years, and with emphasis on off pavement usage, I got a decent idea about what worked where, and why. Many knowledge gaps were filled in at Yuma Proving Grounds, where very sophisticated instruments eliminated the use of tape measures and other crude (in...

Hmm. We have brutal UV here, but I do try to keep things in the shade.

Okay, if driving through a swamp, the duals could be helpful. Not for traction, but flotation. Not that it would matter much as the front tires would sink in.

Traction is generally a function of contact pressure. A small tractor has very little to start with because of its low weight. Duals would only make it worse. If stability is the goal, spacers are likely a better option.

Holy cow! I have never needed 40 to 60 gallons (of diesel) in a week, no matter what I do with the M6040. It obviously lives a very easy life compared to your tractor. Anyway, isn't there a valve towards the bottom on larger tanks that allows filling smaller ones?

Fair enough. But then I have even easier access to propane. All I have to do is make one phone call and the delivery truck shows up. So far.

My oldest hoses from Surplus Center are only about 10 years now, but not a single one (out of quite a few) has been problematic. Despite some mechanical accidental abuse. Similarly, after buying couplers from various places, the only ones that leak are the OE ones on the L3800's remotes...

That's not exactly what I'd call easy access to propane. If everything always worked as intended I wouldn't even need a generator. Or lots of diesel on hand to keep it running. There's a reason I'd like to either add to the 1,000 gallon tank (for the house) or get one that's 5,000 or so, then...

Nice! So probably a 10,000 gallon tank or better, right? I forgot to ask the propane guy yesterday, but doesn't it require electricity to pump the propane from the storage tank into a delivery truck or smaller tanks?

I've always been disappointed when putting any kind of goop in tires, and have tried quite a few brands. Maybe six months ago I tried TireJect in a few problem tires, and I agree with SpyderLK, that stuff actually works. As far as I know it hasn't had to deal with any actual punctures, just...

Thanks, but I was hoping for about 5,000 gallons. Wow, I had the two 500 and one 1,000 gallon tank filled yesterday, for....$2.49/gallon. Would've never guessed it'd be cheaper in CA, let alone by that much.

Huge? I might be interested in that one.

How does one get easy access, if you don't mind?

Not applicable to the OP, but just to throw an entirely different version out there. Started with a 9' rear blade on the M6040, then got a front 8' plow/dozer blade for the loader. Learned to leave a little snow under the front blade, creating a level surface to drive on, then had the rear...

My generator is maybe 50 feet from the main 1,000 gallon propane tank, but it's a diesel. Why? Because with my luck the feces would hit the fan in the winter and the tank may only be half full. Now the heating and generator would be competing for that half tank, and one wouldn't work without...

Agree. The odds of bending the receiver tube or drawbar in that setup are practically non-existent. There's always a weak link, but those two components aren't it.

I've used a halfway long (wide if you will) bar on top of the cab for years now. The magnets are plenty strong to keep it in place on the roll bar even with the plastic roof in between.

Yup, that's exactly what I had in mind. But I don't think the size of the tractor makes much difference when the trailer puts up a fight and doesn't want to turn. Of course, I'm thinking tandem axle trailers, not small and light single axles.

And here's my preferred trailer mover. It's surprisingly capable.

Alright, couldn't see the weld, and figured that the bottom was bolted to the bar. Still, considering the generous length of the receiver tubing compared to a normal receiver, I would triangulate it. You already have holes at the outer end of the drawbar, so one weld close to the pin for the...

As mentioned, it was used once, to move a little 16' empty bumper pull flatbed. And it worked. For heavier and/or loaded trailers (goosenecks) I generally use a "yard goat" I made for the purpose.

We're obviously looking at this completely differently. The way I see it, the flat bar at the bottom can't support much weight in the horizontal plane, so the weight is carried by the hook. And yes, the lower pins keeps the bar from rotating, but not the receiver portion. The issue I perceive...

While it's quire rare that I move trailers with a tractor, at some point I bought a cheap clamp-on receiver for the bucket. That one was a fail, as no matter how hard it was tightened down it would move side to side when turning the tractor. A few years later I bought one that just clicks into...

Yes, I realize that, but still wondering what supports the green portion with the receiver tube laterally. That practically all the vertical force is supported by the hook on top is one thing, but it should be strong enough for that. Guess I need to study the photo more closely, again, and try...

Okay, that's good. I just can't see anything that would help keep it straight. Even if the vertical tubing is welded to the bar between the lift arms, that's an awfully small area for the twisting forces that would result when pushing or pulling a trailer anything but straight.

I'd be concerned with the lateral strength of that setup, even without the extra long receiver tube. What keeps the trailer ball from moving side to side?

If the wheels and tires came with it, I'd be tempted. Could be a fun project. Then again, I already have enough on the list for several years.

Agree. And besides, you Floridians must be good at fixing stuff that's been under water by now.

That's really not an all bad business strategy.

Got curious enough to look up the specs for a stock Willys Jeep. Supposedly the MB would climb a 65 degree slope fully loaded, although I'm sure that wasn't on dirt since the open diffs wouldn't allow it. More interesting, perhaps, is the listed 55 degree max sidehill angle. Of course, mine is...

Easiest would probably be to use a jumper wire, or pull the connector and jump it with a paper clip or something. Most of them seem to be fairly easy to get to. The only one I've ever had any issues with was on the L3800, when the one for the forward/reverse pedal apparently didn't go to the...

Yeah, I really should put them in the tractors, too, eliminating much of the perceived problem and instead having an idea about what the tilt really is. So far I haven't rolled a tractor, or even only laid on on its side, but that day may certainly come. Of course, an inclinometer won't really...

Well, shoot. No wonder I can drive up and down that slope with just about anything, without even slipping a tire...it's only 29 degrees - thankfully shy of the 30 where everything would supposedly just slide down. Except, possibly, a good farm tractor. And come to think of it, I've driven one...

Yes, tractor trailers and other Class 8 vehicles have those separate circuits, which is why there has to be a jumper (between 5 and 8 if memory serves me. It's been a few years) to combine the marker and taillights for use with a regular trailer's RV wiring. If the trailer is wired to work with...

Call it what you want (even though I really don't care for being called a liar). It's not my fault that you severely underestimate the lateral traction of a (Jeep) tire on various surfaces. How do I know that about 45 degrees is the limit? By quickly checking the Lev-O-Gauge just as it starts...

I think inclimometers are a great help. There has been times when I started getting nervous in my Jeep at 25 degrees, even though I know damn well it can take up to 45 or so. But the 500-foot drop to the left makes even a mere 25 degrees feel like a lot. Yep, it's all in my head. There's no...

Speaking of, as I'm basically rewiring a trailer that's only a couple of years old, finding all kinds of odd stuff. For example, the wiring for charging the batteries. It was about a 30-foot run of 14 gauge, to charge two batteries. Now it'll be about 11 feet of 10 gauge, for one battery...

Yep, cooling would be an obstacle. I have had the fans come on once or twice when working the Case 580 backhoe a bit hard in 80 degree weather, but when running the small snowblower off of the same hydraulic circuit it was a different story. Then the fans would come on fairly quickly, and...

That's because in commercial applications (Class 8 tractors and trailers) the taillights and marker lights are on separate circuits. I'm guessing so that there will be some lighting left if one of them craps out. Anyway, my larger dump trailer rarely leaves the property, so on that one I...

Exactly. I'm sure that color blind people can wire a trailer plug correctly, without being distracted by the colors.

Do check the caster on the axles. It took me two sets of axles to figure out why the inner bearings would start turning on the spindles, spreading fine particles through the bearings in the process. The trailer is very light, and rarely had more than 3,000 lbs. on it, which turned out to be...

To a large extent you'd have to check for the same things either way. Crappy electrical connections, that the bearings are lubed, and the brakes adjusted correctly. What scares me about used trailers is how most people treat them. I'd be prepared to buy new tires, fix some electrical, maybe...

That means it has 3,500-lb. axles, which I learned to stay away from...the hard way. For not much more you can get the larger spindles,bearings, and brakes of 5,200-lb. axles. And don't forget that you can mix and match, using the beefier axles with 3,500-lb. springs. And while on the subject...

In my case, I'm perfectly legal with the 14,000 lb. GVWR, and my longish (32') flatbed trailer is rated at 25K. Yep, 39K CGVWR and just fine on a regular license. Now, had I still been in CA that would've been an entirely different story. Have snuck in there twice and got away with it (flatbed...

Well, many will surely disagree, but I tend to go by logic, physics, and such. My logic may not always be correct, but it's impossible to cheat physics. By the way, my Ram also have a 9-foot flatbed and has since shortly after I bought it '17, but I have yet to put anything but a couple of...

Stupidly sold a very nice and light aluminum trailer, instead of adding a 3rd axle to it. About two months ago my girlfriend bought a Diamond C...for almost twice ($11K) what I bought the aluminum one for in '10. Anyway, not much choice when it comes to where the weight goes on the new one.

I completely agree. I don't really understand 2500s. Then again, I understand 1500s much less, unless all you want is a car with a bed in the back. And I've learned to really dislike bumper pull trailers. Yes, I'm opinionated, but it's almost all based on experience.

A Ram 2500 is basically identical to a 3500, except for the rear suspension and the mandated 10K max GVWR, so I wouldn't worry too much about the weight. There are always air springs in case the rear sag is a problem.

I would definitely go gooseneck, and most likely more than 5,200-lb. axles, just in case. Unlike a bumper pull, you can get away with a lower tongue weight and still not have sway. But you probably already knew that.

I do the same thing, but with an open pintle hook, if using the tractor to move a trailer.

I use the adjustable version on larger trailers. On little ones the miserable ball couplers get replaced with a simple piece of receiver tubing. Still get about 2-1/2 inches of height adjustment capability by using weld-on tow rings with a small tab (instead of store bought straight ones) with...

There's a reason (okay, several) why I've switched all the bumper pull stuff over to pintle setups.

I dunno. Having a completely flat tire on a tractor is probably far safer than coming in a bit hot in a curve, then find out that there's severe over or understeer because one outside tire is 4-5 psi low. Around here the result could be ending up wrapped around a tree, going into a cliff face...

Not that it matters on a tractor, but a repair must (legally) include inspecting the inside of the carcass, and have a patch or other sealer installed from the inside. On the other hand, I've used Safety Seal plugs on just about everything, including to fix punctures on cars with 200+ mph top...

Safety Seal plugs would've taken care of the punctures, then avoid using water as a lubricant. Tire irons are cheap, by the way, and less likely to damage the tire bead. Also, if using a Hi-Lift to break the bead, the wheel could stay attached to the tractor. Same with a tool made for the...

I should probably point out that my forklift isn't of the typical kind. It doesn't have A/C, which doesn't matter to me as much as that the windshield is heated, visibility isn't great, but it does quite well on uneven terrain. As does most Unimogs. Also, no side-shift, no power adjusting...

To me, lacking power when scooping up stuff with the bucket isn't an issue with HST. Of course, I don't just drive into a mound of dirt with the bucket still level. Using the lever I can get a full scoop without running out of power or traction.

I can't see the tips with any of them, but the 60-inchers make it a bit easier. Still moving 325-gallon totes somewhat frequently without getting off or out of the tractors. Usually, if getting out to check, it's to see how close to whatever is behind it a new load is. But now I'm curious to...

How do you figure? I use pallet forks quite often, mostly with the little L3800, but also with the M6040. The latter has a cab, but I don't understand what difference that makes. If the load is much over 2,000 lbs. I use the actual forklift, but all it can do is lift more weight, straight up...

Two wide? I wish. The last mile of road to the driveway where I used to live in CA is both quite steep and has some serious curves in it. Just imagine pulling doubles with a Peterbilt and then come up on a flock of 30 to 50 bicyclists using both lanes. Yep, couldn't do much but shift into the...

After measuring what collapsed and extended lengths I need, I look through what's the best fit on Surplus Center's web site. With some luck the diameter of the pins is correct, too, without the need for sleeves or welding. And then also order the hoses and fittings needed. Done.

Looks like s simplified mini version of this creation. Which has only one engine - it's all hydraulics.

Found the "after photos". It's probably best to do this modification on similar blades before things get bent.

When it's a bit over 20 miles to go, at 2.37 mph, a stereo (Sirius XM) is a lifesaver, I think. Of course, it helps a lot that the newest mower is 10' and doesn't leave windrows. Before getting that one I felt like a Nascar driver, only making left turns.

Yup, looks familiar. You might as well add some (stout) material around the bolt while the welder is warm.

As promised, photos of a disfigured 7' 3-way blade. It was fairly obvious that the surface area on the "boom" and the corresponding contact area around the pivot bolt were nowhere near large enough, putting too much force on the bolt. Unfortunately I have no "after photos" readily available...

Remind me to dig up photos of a "better brand" blade that got bent to crap - without hitting any stumps. Not being a fan of warranty claims I ended up adding (much needed) material in the area of the pivot pin, mimicking an RV 5th wheel if you will. Bad designs aren't brand specific.

Hmm. That would mean I couldn't use my actual forklift. It's impossible to see the tips of the forks with the Unimog HMMH. Yet I somehow manage when needing more lifting power than the Kubota has to offer.

I dunno. That'd be like saying that if you bought a larger tractor, which would have a longer loader and larger bucket, you'd be running into things with it. Or that I would back into things when towing a longer trailer than usual.

Driving my 3500 infrequently, it's more common than not that I take off with winter fuel in the summer, and vice versa. For winter driving, it's easy enough to add some anti gel. Which the storage tanks also need even though they're not going anywhere.

Yeah, that's why I mentioned "well under 12 degrees" since that's supposedly when DEF starts to freeze. Anyway, a vehicle used daily probably wouldn't be nearly as susceptible to frozen DEF as one that sits for months, like in our case. And people have installed heating blankets on tanks...

Had one DEF tank freeze up completely. Can't really blame it though, as that pickup had sat unused for about three months and it had been well under 12 degrees for the very most part. Seems the heater in the tank couldn't keep up with the demand for DEF, so after about 50 miles the dash lit up...

Most of my trips are a minimum of 300 miles, one way, and with plenty of long and steep grades. Yet, the lifetime average speed is 62 mph, and that's by far mostly on twisty 2-lane roads. It sure seems like it's the people that seldom tow, or very little weight, that crave the extra power - be...

Oddly enough, my '17 3500 C&C (with its derated engine) works just fine in stock form. Well, I've never been (much) over 39,000 lbs. GCVW here in the Rockies.

Oh, I sure didn't get that one for it's road manners or fuel economy. And if it wasn't a rotator, it wouldn't be nearly as useful to me. While I did put an 18,000 lb. winch on one of the FLU 419 SEEs, the M936 is a far better puller. Also, there are things the crane on the FLU 419 HMMH just...

An M936. Since it weighs about 40,000 lbs. and the rear winch is good for 45,000 lbs., it should work. If not, I have four snatch blocks for the 3/4" cable.

Now that you mention it, this is the Peterbilt I bought for real towing. But it has since been replaced by something that actually could pull a house off of its foundation.

I can definitely relate. Bad knees since I was two, and screwed my back up at 18. If there's one thing my dad has right, it's him somewhat frequently telling me that a stupid head will make the whole body suffer.