Search results

Carefully inspect headlight wiring. You may have had rodents snacking on the insulation.

You could of course replace the PTO shaft but as stated another option is an extension. A third option is an over run clutch.

If a circuit breaker trips with no change in the load it should be replaced. When they get a few years on them they can trip for no reason. Never assume when you flip the handle the circuit is broken, either. ALWAYS check that the circuit is dead before working on it!!

I had pretty good luck searching for Mitsubishi tractor parts on eBay. If you can't find what you seek you can get many parts from Valley Power. They're also a wealth of information and even have some manuals...

Many people will recommend bars of Irish Spring soap or some kind of mint as a deterrent. It hasn't worked for me. I find providing an alternate food source works to keep them off the wiring. I keep a tray of D-Con behind each headlight in my car. If it runs empty unnoticed though I will...

If you do some surfing you'll find the difference between the two resides in the additives used. They do not interchange in all cases. I don't know how hard you've looked for GL-4 but online I can even find it at Walmart.

If you don't get further response here I strongly recommend contacting the nice folks at Valley Power. They will talk to you over the phone and even carry parts if needed. My old Mitsubishi (they bought Satoh) was well supported there. All of its hydraulics operated in a normal manner.

It may be a sign of starter failure. It's possible it's not spinning up fast enough or with enough force to engage the pinion with the flywheel. You could also have a Bendix problem but generally the starter and Bendix come as a unit when you buy a starter. I'd start by being sure of the...

Go through the bleeding procedure to be sure you are getting fuel to the pump. These pumps have no capacity to suck, they must have fuel at the input to get fuel out.

Lifting speed is controlled by the three point control. Try moving the control slowly until it starts to lift then ease it up slowly to raise further. Downward motion is gravity controlled. Some tractors have a lever, others have a knob. It opens and closes a valve like a faucet to control...

Did you use diesel rated oil? Was it of the correct weight? I tend to order my lubricants online. If I spend enough money (easy at current prices) shipping to the house is free.

Did all your problems crop up at the same time or have they been adding on over time? They seem kind of unrelated. Black smoke is usually a too rich mixture but that can be caused by a dirty air cleaner. Your tractor is twenty years old which is not old for a tractor. How many hours are on...

Try to score a wiring diagram for your tractor. You could also try You Tube.

Generally hydraulic fluid runs hot - hot enough that you don't want to handle the metal fittings with your bare hands. If you can connect and disconnect lines without acquiring first degree burns on your bare hands you're probably well within tolerances.

I believe you'll find 18 volt batteries available for longer than you expect. All of my battery tools are 18 volt. Note that many of the older 18 volt batteries are Ni-Cad while newer batteries are Li-Ion. The battery chargers are not the same though newer chargers may sense battery type and...

Are you getting activation voltage to the solenoid? If not, Dan's solution is probably the correct one. If you are getting power to the solenoid is it activating?

A universal temperature gauge would probably work. You can get electric or mechanical. With mechanical the sensor is permanently connected to the gauge and you have to figure out how to route the line without disconnecting anything. If you go for the electrical kind the sensor needs to match...

One tip would be to always buy tires in pairs. I get my tractor tires from Les Schwab. They can even fill them if desired and for a reasonable price. If the difference between your tires is enough to tilt your loader they're not even close. Be sure both have proper pressure. Put a mark on...

I keep a pack of D-Con behind each headlight in my Charger. I put a pack on top of the intake of my wife's Fusion. If my Charger D-Con runs out they eat my headlight wires. You can't buy just the connectors and a new harness is about $900. Last year the labor was an additional $1500. My...

You're getting a lot of good suggestions. If you can access the circuit board check the solder connections. You are looking for cold solder joints and cracked or broken traces.

I find Lowe's to be less hassle and have better prices to boot. Yes, I do have my DD 214 but I need not remember to take it with me to Lowe's and the discount is automatic if I order on line from Lowe's. I'm not sure how Home Depot handles online orders.

Welcome to TBN. If you can isolate which wires feed the gauge you can try feeding it a low voltage - five volts or less. If the needle is going to move that should move it. Depending on the electrical system that could put you at half scale or full scale. Even with a twelve volt electrical...

I had a Mitsubishi tractor. (They bought or merged with Satoh.) When I needed parts or help I would contact Valley Power in Roanoke, VA.

Try Amazon Amazon.com : 14 x 17.5 tire

You obviously don't have enough land.

If it's some kind of crud or blockage you may wish to pull the oil pan and clean it out.

I rented one about fifteen years ago for $40 a week. I work slow so I probably had it two weeks. For the next roof I bought one from Harbor Freight. It was $80 or $100. It hasn't given me a moment of grief. I drip a little oil into the air intake each day and it works well. I'll use it...

Disconnect the cable from the carburetor. Route it as straight as possible and check for difficulty of movement. It should move pretty freely. While the cable is disconnected see how freely the choke lever on the carburetor moves. This should tell you how freely each piece works. Now route...

Fuel starvation could be the problem. There is a fuel shutoff solenoid in the carburetor. On some machines if it overheats it shuts off the fuel. They can be somewhat temperature sensitive.

The why may have to do with the price or availability of a replacement Kubota ignition switch. When I replaced the ignition switch on my Mitsubishi D2350 I didn't like the price so I got a switch from NAPA then wired a push button to energize the glow plugs. It may be the installer of the push...

How are you supporting the roof where there are no openings? If you've got a clear sixteen foot span the length of the building the same support should work at the ends. The weight is supported by the walls not the center.

The holes may be for some accessory sold for some models. You could try pushing a thin rod through to see if they align. As far as fluid I'd just use a general purpose tractor gear and hydraulic oil such as NAPA or most tractor suppliers sell.

If you have a leaky seal on your hydraulic pump it can allow passage of hydraulic oil into the crankcase. Monitor your hydraulic fluid level carefully.

$4600 appears to be a big jump to gain ten horsepower - especially when you consider they may use the same basic engine. However, there's more than meets the eye. The additional cost is for a diesel particulate filter and the computer needed to run it. I believe the warranty on the emissions...

They may have been used to hold the ladder shut during shipping.

I don't know if you can get a replacement at a big box store. I know you can find one at Ace - that's where I got mine.

I check oil before I start it for the day. I do not check it again through the day.

Usually safety switches will prevent the engine from turning over at all so I don't think it's a safety switch. If you've followed the bleeding procedure after checking fuel flow consider checking the air supply - both the filter and ensuring a clear path from there to the intake manifold.

Short of disassembling the alternator the easiest way to test for leakage is to disconnect it and / or the voltage regulator while watching current draw on your ammeter. You can disconnect other electrical things not controlled by fuses the same way for troubleshooting.

If you're using LED bulbs polarity is important. They will probably not work if connected backward. If they are twelve volt bulbs they will need connected in parallel. That is the plus terminal on one to the plus terminal on the other and supplied by the positive battery terminal. The...

I'm seventy six and remember Colgate toothpaste as well as several other no longer existent brands. I seem go vaguely remember the name Gardol but I'm not sure I would have drawn the connection to the Colgate brand, though perhaps I would have. I'm usually pretty good with stone age trivia.

Welcome to TBN. It appears you already know you have a drain on the battery. With the tractor not running and the key off connect an ammeter in series with the battery. That will tell you how much draw you've got. (Remember you must disconnect a cable and connect the ammeter in series.) You...

Please try to clarify your request.

I agree with 32 chev. To confirm charge your battery. Measure the voltage. Continue your measurement as someone attempts to start the tractor. The voltage may drop clear to zero. Of course you should clean the battery terminals and the connectors, tightening fully when done. Clean and...

A GFCI outlet could replace a regular outlet to feed your jacuzzi with no issues. Pay special attention to the "line" and "load" terminals to be sure it's installed correctly. The input power goes to the "line" terminals. I'm unsure which breakers would work in your panel but my old...

The first thing to determine is whether the sump pump or the jacuzzi is a 120 volt circuit. The only time a neutral is needed is for a 120 volt circuit and two 120 volt circuits should not share a neutral. For that matter if they are 120 volt circuits they should not be tied together at the...

Do your tail lights work? How about your four way flashers and turn signals? Do you have a wiring diagram?

Welcome to TBN. As a general rule if turning on the key gets no action other that activating dash lights check to see which safety switches have not been satisfied - seat, PTO, clutch, etc. If you have an HST transmission and the pedal is not in a neutral position there is a safety switch on...

I don't know New Holland at all. Kubota has some grease zerks underneath for the HST pedal as well as the clutch. You could start by being sure these are lubed. While you're under there look for anything which may have been picked up and binding the operation. Your problem could really be...

Welcome to TBN. Running the tractor with well water was not a good thing. Minerals will build up deposits. I only use distilled water for that reason. If you've flushed and reverse flushed the engine and block and you know the thermostat works put it all together and fill with distilled...

I have no detailed instructions. When adjusting valves on my Mitsubishi I'd turn the engine over to the point of minimum or no pressure on intake and exhaust rockers. I know it can be more time consuming that way but that way I was sure it was done right, especially after rotating it through...

For 220 (or 240) volt heater use there is no neutral, there are only the two hot wires and a ground wire. The number six copper wires are probably correct for the heating elements - sized for the current load. Getting into larger wires the ground wire is usually one or even two sizes smaller...

Welcome to TBN. Generically it's a PTO driven mowing deck or brush hog for a three point hitch. Specifically I can't tell you the brand or model.

The three point goes up from hydraulic pressure. The down motion is gravity only. If you can't get it down with weight on the arms you may have an internal leak around the control valve forcing it up.

If the engine runs check your shift lever. If the tractor has two ranges (high and low) the shifter may be in an indeterminate position between them effectively putting the tractor into neutral.

The smoke color would be helpful and the conditions under which it smokes. Many tractors smoke slightly when first started - it's pretty common and not a problem.

Hi, and welcome to TBN. Unless you've had experience rebuilding hydraulic cylinders the wise path it probably to take both to a local hydraulic shop to be rebuilt. The price for them doing the rebuild may only be a little higher than purchasing an off the shelf rebuild kit - if such a thing...

I don't know how critical that location is. Fluorocarbon greases do not mix well with standard petroleum lubricants. If using a grease gun you should use one which has never had another grease in it. When the two types of lubricant get together they kind of form little balls and the lubricity...

Welcome to TBN!! If you've not already done so try opening the lowering speed valve. It's usually a knob or lever between your feet or just behind them.

By al means get a half inch ratchet and breaker bar as well as a set of half inch metric sockets. In addition get a torque wrench (half inch drive is fine) that goes to at least 200 foot pounds. I don't know your tractor but my Kubota rear wheel nuts are 160 pounds and the loader mounts are 166.

I don't believe there's an O ring in that type fitting. Try holding the lower fitting with a wrench while tightening the fitting on the hose a bit. Make sure the hose itself is dry and not leaking somewhere along the length of the hose and running down.

There are still similar expanding plugs out there. While you have your "cork" out you could also see if the hole is threaded. If you're not the original owner it's possible the original owner lost the original drain plug and installed the "cork". On the bottom of a tractor would not be my...

I had a three point which wouldn't go down all the way. I found a stop clamp on the three point control. After I moved it to the end of travel I could move the three point lever further and the hitch complied by going down further.

I can't help you for sure. Lacking other input look for some kind of threaded rod in your clutch linkage. For a starting point try adjusting to allow about an inch of easy pedal travel before pressure increases and you're starting to disengage the clutch.

If you don't feel "worthy" because you think you're not interesting or knowledgeable consider it a mark of your being outgoing. We're good either way.

I do not get many offers for unwanted stuff. Why? I use Thunderbird, a free Mozilla product to access my email. It has a pretty good junk filter. If I get junk I can flag it as junk and won't receive it again. If something inadvertently goes into the junk folder (it happens from time to...

I'd go through the normal stuff of cleaning terminals and checking battery. Then I'd have one person place a voltmeter on the starter solenoid to see if it's getting volts when a start is attempted. If you've got volts and the solenoid doesn't kick in to power the starter it may be defective...

Although not advertised or marked as such I believe any multi viscosity oil in the 5W range is a semi synthetic at least - at least that's what I was told by the service guys at the dealer when asked if I wanted synthetic 5W-20 or regular oil. You can get 5W-30 Pennzoil now in full synthetic or...

You could check in with Valley Power in Roanoke, VA. They have a boneyard as well as connections for machine work for repairs.

Check into a local shop that does drivelines. They probably do agricultural PTO drivelines as well.

You sound like a newcomer to eastern WA. Wait for some of the good spring winds. We're getting a taste of that at the moment.

I have a Kubota but it also has the ability to dump the hydraulic fluid during filter change. However, if I put my shop vac on the filler port and pull a partial vacuum it overcomes the atmospheric pressure and I lose very little beyond what's in the filter. I've also read that if you plug the...

The starter is intended only for short term use so if you left it to spin without catching that could have caused your smoke. It sounds like the Bendix gear has failed. You may be able to replace just that part or you may need a whole starter. A starter shop can either fix it or guide you to...

On top of everything that's been said, if you do go ahead with your own troubleshooting - aside from various safety switches - and find a defective part you're unlikely to be able to score one before Monday anyhow.

Go through the manual to determine what safety switches you must satisfy. Anything preventing the seat from going fully down tells the tractor you're not sitting on it. Do you have a neutral safety switch? Did you accidentally leave the PTO engaged? If you have an HST transmission the pedal...

For the amount of use you'll have for it, if the run isn't over fifty feet you could even consider a cheapie from Harbor Freight. Have you thought of renting one? To prevent root growth try putting copper sulfate into the pipes. Roots tend to not like the stuff.

Try cleaning your connections and grounds. That may help. On many vehicles the instruments do not run on twelve volts. There may be a lower voltage regulator of five volts or so for instruments. Yours may be erratic. Check your schematic.

I can't help with your specific issue. The tach cables and speedo cables frequently have the actual cable inside a jacket or sheath. You may need only to replace the inner section which slides out when one end is disconnected. Many auto parts stores will sell just the inner part which you may...

One consideration not mentioned is detergent versus non detergent oils. If you use a detergent oil to replace an older non detergent deposits can wash away leaving things pretty loose inside. I don't know when detergent oils came into being but there's another piece of research for you.

You apparently haven't camera shopped in awhile. Solar charging is an option for many cameras as is battery life measured in months. They connect to your wi-fi router but can be programmed to notify your cell phone if an intruder is detected. You can even view and program them via the phone.

Your dealer is correct - those pumps rarely fail. Since you've changed fluid and filters it is possible one was defective or has failed. Find out if there is any screen in the hydraulic system which could be clogged. There is also a possibility it could be your over pressure relief valve. If...

Kubota probably buys the seals just like you do. You'll probably have to remove the seals to get replacements unless you can read the numbers off them. They will be seal numbers not Kubota numbers. You could also take the cylinders to a local hydraulic shop to be rebuilt.

According to Tractor Data they were either gasoline or diesel. The gasoline version was six volt positive ground, the diesel was twelve volt negative ground. TractorData.com Ford 641 tractor information

If it's the first filter change try cutting the paint all around the filter. After doing that the strap wrench or whatever should work.

If the change is acceptable to Mahindra there should be an update to their technical or service manuals. I doubt any "field service manager" is authorized to initiate such a recommendation. If the tractor runs normally but only blows the fuse on shut down you may try to learn exactly why this...

If you have an HST transmission stick with the Kubota fluid. If you have a manual gear type transmission you may get away with a more generic choice. Be aware that the transmission and the hydraulics probably share the same fluid.

According to Tractor Data it has a diesel engine so you would want a diesel rated engine oil. The normally recommended weight is 15W-40 but there are others out there. Figure in needing six quarts though it could take more. As far as the transmission and hydraulic system, they share the same...

If your major concern is dropping and losing parts try spreading a clean sheet (preferably white) under and around the engine area. Any small parts falling onto the sheet should be easily seen and recovered.

It's a new tractor. It's on warranty. It's defective. Have the dealer track down the short. If the forty amp fuse blows quickly the sixty will probably fail as well. That is NOT the repair!! After you get it back be sure to check what size fuse the dealer used to "fix" the problem.

You can get top links in different lengths. I needed a longer one when I added Pat's Quick Hitch. You may also be able to substitute a short length of chain for your top link. You may also be able to remove the rippers from your box blade. Mine are held in place with easily removable pins.

By all means try to find a manual for your loader - perhaps online? The stands don't always swing down. There may be supports slid into a hollow part of the loader frame and pinned in place. Look it over really well.

I can't be much help. According to Tractor Data that tractor should have a nine speed synchromesh transmission? TractorData.com Mitsubishi MT210 tractor information When I had Mitsubishi troubles I'd ask Valley Power

Note that if you have a weed chopper type fencer and use fencing with the fine wires in it the fine wires will burn as well as the weeds. In those areas you may wish to resort to plain old wire.

I'll go along with Jim on the owner's manual. The newer tractors have several safeties built in which must be satisfied. There is the seat switch and the PTO switch of course but there may also be a clutch switch, a neutral switch, and a sensor on the HST engagement (if the tractor is HST)...

Welcome to TBN. You could start by disconnecting the tach cable and see if it's broken internally. There's a cable inside the sheath you see. Sometimes they break. If you know the length many auto parts stores sell replacements.

Are you sure the holes need to be four feet deep? I only needed three foot holes for my pole building. I rented a Bobcat with auger for that. The rental auger may or may not do the job for you - it kind of depends on your soil conditions.

If you've not already done so you could try replacing the fuel filter. It's inside the tank and accessed by pulling that big rubber plug where the fuel line exits the tank.

If you're not within the warranty period for some reason a local hydraulic shop can probably either repair it or direct you to a less expensive replacement.

Has it ever worked properly? Start by making sure your three point control is not on the full lift position. If it's not adjusted properly that can cause loader slow down and lift weakness.

Welcome to TBN. I suspect your tractor is old enough there are minimal (if any) electronics to fry. Start with the easy stuff and check your fuses. If you can score a schematic you might try to determine if you have any fusible links as well. It is possible you have fried your voltage...

Welcome to TBN. If you have need for the attachments it's probably not a bad deal at all. Only you can determine your needs. You can price out whatever attachments you think you'll use and go from there. Just adding a loader to a tractor can set you back $4000 or more.

I considered welding hooks onto my bucket but arrived at (what I consider) a better solution for me. Home - BoltOnHooks LLC They were well designed and you can't get much simpler than a bolt on installation. They came with the necessary reinforcement.

Really and truly, if the job was mine to do I'd just take it to the local hydraulic shop.

I've not seen a connector like that before. I like the cigarette lighter receptacle type as they're pretty standard. I prefer them switched so I don't have an accidental drain when not using the tractor.

Welcome to TBN. If you have an old glow plug you can read a number from it. Many tractors use NGK plugs. Even if yours aren't NGK you can contact them providing the make and model of your tractor and they can tell you which of their plugs is appropriate for it.

Happy Birthday and congratulations on getting that far. I wish you many happy healthy more.

You've got schematics. That's good. It appears the voltage regulator is inside the alternator. What happens if you charge the battery from a charger then try starting the unit? What is the voltage output of the alternator once you get the engine running? If you have not done so, clean...

Start with a schematic diagram of your Telehandler. It may have a wiring issue or it may have a defective external voltage regulator. There are many possibilities for your problem. If the alternator is new it is probably capable of charging your battery. What's its output voltage when running?

You'll find opinions both ways. I use synthetic in my tractor and my cars. If you shop for a crate engine for a car you may find regular oil recommended for the first 500 miles but after that either is okay. What you do is pretty much personal preference and experience.

I couldn't find the proper replacement switches for my welder. I measured carefully and found some that look original on eBay.

Based on experience there does seem to be some sort of spring in there that disengages the lock at some point after you remove your foot from the pedal. As Roustabout said, release is not instantaneous.

I had a Koyker loader on my Mitsubishi tractor and was very happy with it. The company should be able to direct you to a vendor in your area. https://www.siouxsteel.com/explore-our-products/koyker-manufacturing/koyker-loaders

A bit of talcum powder may help locate the leak. Be sure the area is clean and very dry. Dust it lightly with talcum powder. Watch for indication of your leak.

Hi, and welcome to TBN. The three point goes up under hydraulic pressure. It goes down from gravity. There is usually a valve centered on the operator's seat between your feet. It must be opened to lower the three point. How far it is open adjusts the lowering speed. If the fluid is milky...

When you're flushing try reverse flushing with the garden hose. That is, put the hose in the top of the engine to flush gunk out the bottom. You may be surprised how much crud is in there.

Welcome to TBN. I suggest disconnecting the fuel line as close to the tank as you can. Check that fuel flows freely. You may have crud or algae built up at the tank output point. This could permit fuel to slowly flow and refill the filter bowl but not flow fast enough for the engine to...

Welcome to TBN. My first thought involves removing cables from the battery and cleaning battery terminals and cable ends. Reinstall and tighten securely. If you can move the connector tighten until you can't. Follow the ground lead to the frame. Clean and tighten there, too. If the fuse...

The loader can be supplied a couple different ways but before replumbing it be sure the three point lever is not in the full up position. There should be an adjustable metering rod that prevents this from happening. If improperly adjusted this can really slow down the loader. If this isn't...

I agree with the above. I would start as close to the tank as I could ensuring free flow from the tank. Algae and crud can build up in there preventing free flow of fuel. If that's the case very little will even GET to the filter. Sometimes new filters can be defective, too.

You don't say how you plan to lift the soil. The front loader is out of the question. The three point should be capable. TractorData.com Kubota B3030 tractor information

Tier 4 refers to the EPA pollution requirement level. Currently anything over 25 horsepower must have tier 4 emission control. This adds (in most cases) a catalytic converter and possibly some other stuff. Many of these requirements came into play in 2014 which is where the question came in...

Put your voltmeter on the battery. Have somebody hit the starter and see what happens to the voltage. It should not drop below, say, eleven volts. You can have a surface charge on a battery but if it has high internal resistance the voltage will drop way off.

The price does not sound unreasonable to me. Do a little surfing and see what they go for. I do wonder about the actual age. According to Tractor Data it was produced from 2007 to 2010. The owner may have purchased it in 2010, though...

In addition to all the good stuff you got from Jeff you can also add rear weight by filling the rear tires with liquid. The best choice is currently beet juice. This will not counter balance the loader as ballast on rear would do but it will improve traction.

NPT is generally tapered to ensure leak prevention. A small amount of thread tape will smooth the tightening of the fittings. Of course you could use "goo" to help by lubricating and sealing the threads.

Glow plugs do eventually fail - just like light bulbs - usually at the time when most needed. They're connected in parallel so you'll have to disconnect and test each individually.

Be sure fuel is getting from the tank to the fuel filter. Sometimes there will be a blockage at the fuel tank outlet. Try cleaning or changing the fuel filter. Bleed the system per manufacturer instructions. Check the fuel stop solenoid as Ruffdog suggested. The problem does sound fuel...

It sounds like either you didn't clean the terminals well or the connectors were not adequately tightened. Follow the ground terminal to the frame. Clean and tighten there as well.

Eleven volts is obviously not enough. A defective battery CAN pull down the voltage. Try to charge it with a battery charger. After that it may be the dyno, the voltage regulator, or even corrosion in the wiring. Good luck!!

If the tractor has a hydrostatic transmission (HST) go by the recommendations in your owner's manual. If it's a gear transmission use tractor fluid as Eric recommended.

It could be the relays. I prefer to expend on Oosik's suggestion, though. Remove both cables from the battery and clean battery terminals. Clean cable ends and reinstall tightening securely. If you can move the cable it's not tight. Follow ground lead to frame. Clean and tighten there as...

Welcome to Tractor by Net (TBN). You could contact Koyker for an after market loader. You could also try to score an operator manual for the LA4003 from Kubota. It may not have plans but there should be a drawing on the cover. The Kubota specific website (Orange Tractor Talks) may be a help...

When you replaced your battery did you clean the cable ends? Are they tight on the battery terminals? If you can move them they're not tight. Follow the ground terminal to the frame. Clean and tighten. Did you charge the new battery before using? I like to charge my new batteries overnight...

Hi, and welcome to TBN. I've really not seen enough information to troubleshoot your tractor. As far as the alternator, it's probably fine as are the rest of the components. As for the other hot wire overheating I do not know what patches were done to the wiring or how they deviated from the...

Your FEL and backhoe should be Kubota orange and have Kubota model numbers. As far as the charging system disconnect the battery. Clean cable connectors and battery terminals. Reinstall and tighten securely. If you can move them they're not secure. Follow ground lead to frame. Clean and...

Welcome to the TBN. Based upon the fact you say it's a ground wire I'm going to guess one end connects to the frame. To what is the other end connected?

Generally you adjust so you have 3/4 to an inch of free play before the pedal actually starts to put pressure on the clutch. From there you can fine tune to personal preference but you should always have some free play to ensure you're not slipping the clutch.

You could try measuring the coil resistance in the starter solenoid when it's cold and when it's hot. You may have a heat related intermittent short in there.

A plane old scythe may be just the tool for the job.

That's probably a valid thought. You may wish to consider adding a separate power line and an SPDT toggle switch to provide power to the radio when not running the tractor. This type switch select either the tractor power or the added line for the radio only - if you're a bit handy with wiring.

As far as know, I don't KNOW. I believe the ACC position came about on cars and trucks due to current flow through the points when in the RUN position. This could sometimes burn points. Many newer cars and trucks have no ACC position.

I don't know if anybody carries Mitsubishi any more. When I needed Mitsubishi parts I always had good results at Valley Power

Messick's is a frequent source for Kubota parts and fluids. They do mail order. When you install the rings don't forget the end gap. Messicks | Your home for New Holland, Case IH, Kubota & More...

I saw somewhere that there will be an L2502 as well with some of the changes you've mentioned for the other tractors in this series. The LA526 loader should fit it as well. I do not know if any changes were made to the basic tractors or if they're simply doing a superficial cosmetic type upgrade.

Insulation won't keep critters out - they like to use it for nests. I do have insulation in my pole building and the walls are mostly finished with (I think) 7/16" OSB. I surface mounted conduit for electrical boxes at about the four foot level. I find that handier than normal outlet height...

I don't know how Kioti ships. The only new tractor I've ever purchased was my Kubota. It is delivered as a kind of kit at the dealer. He installs the wheels, loader, etc. That's why it's a good idea to follow the fifty hour checklist and check the torques. I don't really know where fluids...

If the problem didn't appear until you replaced the fuel filter is there any possibility the new filter is defective? If the old one was okay put it back and see what happens. I'm assuming you turned the fuel back on and don't have any air leaks.

Thanks for the update and I'm glad the solution to your problem was so simple (and cheap).

You'll have to present any questions on this to your dealer. Since the tractors are manufactured overseas I don't know if shipping regulations permit them to be shipped with batteries, fluids, etc. Those may all be added locally.

According to Tractor Data you have a diesel tractor. It would run on stove oil but actual diesel fuel is probably a better choice. Only you can tell whether it is appropriate for your needs. Generally they don't require much tinkering. You change the oil as you would in a car - probably no...

While paying attention to what Harry said, factor in the cost of splitting the tractor and replacing the clutch if it comes to that. That is generally the way the clutch is accessed. Of course it could be a simple adjustment. All in all you've given insufficient data for an estimate.

It could be lack of fuel. That may be the float setting in the carburetor, a defective fuel filter, or blockage where fuel exits the tank. Disconnect the fuel line to see if fuel flows freely from the tank. It could also be timing or dwell, both of which are affected by the point gap. A...

I'm only addressing your starting problem on this one. I don't know a thing about your situation so I'll get very basic. Remove the battery cables. Clean connectors and battery terminals. Reinstall cables and tighten securely. If you can move them around they're not tight. Follow ground...

Let's start with the basics. Remove cables from battery. Clean cable ends and battery terminals. Replace cables onto battery and tighten. If you can move them they're not tight. Follow ground lead to frame. Clean and tighten. Charge battery and try to start. If you still have trouble and...

Welcome to TBN. I don't have a Mahindra but the normal charged battery voltage is about 12.6. The normal charge voltage is about 14.5. An alternator should be able to put out about seventeen volts and the voltage regulator drops that to 14.5. Fifteen is a mite high but shouldn't cause a...

It could be a battery near the end of its useful life or just dirty or loose connections. Remove battery cables and clean connectors. Clean battery terminals. Reinstall cables and tighten securely. If you can move them they're not tight. Follow the ground lead to the frame. Clean and...

Review your project carefully. It's pretty simple to have a catch tank if you plan to return the fluid manually. If you want it to happen automatically I think you'll need a non pressure cap on your radiator to allow fluid to flow freely to and from the catch tank. The catch tank would then...

You may have a defective turn signal switch - internal damage. It may also be your flasher. Many vehicles are wired such that the four way flashers may be enabled with the key off. If the turn signals use the same flasher you have a possible source for your problem. Get an electrical...

I believe your Iseki is a forty year old tractor. They were pretty simple. To stop the tractor you probably have to turn off fuel manually with the throttle lever as I don't believe tractors of that vintage used a fuel shutoff solenoid. If that's the case as long as the tractor has air, fuel...

Begin by making sure the engine is free to turn over. With many tractors you can put a socket or wrench on the nut on the front of the crankshaft. It may be tight between there and the radiator. The engine will not spin easily but it should be possible to rotate the crankshaft. If you can't...

Just because a part is new does not mean it's good.

As Mike did, you may have to get a bit creative and think outside the box. I don't have pictures but for my Mitsubishi tractor I relocated the air cleaner to one side then used a fairly large diameter L shaped radiator hose from the air cleaner to the air intake. When done it actually looked...

Either your wiring is messed up and lacks a ground reference, you left out a wire somewhere, or the regulator is defective. You could even try your old regulator on the new alternator just for comparison.

I don't understand. Did the starter stop after twenty seconds or did the engine start then stop after twenty seconds? A problem with starting would not necessarily mean you need a complete new harness. Instead of throwing money at the tractor you'd do better to fully investigate the actual...

I don't know how many switched positions there are. If you're not using it for anything the work light fuse (ten amps) would probably suffice. I don't know if you have that option but it does exist on my L2501. Try to lay hands on a schematic and see what fuses are on switched circuits and...

Keep a close eye on your oil level and the hydraulic level. It is possible on many tractors for a leaking seal on the hydraulic pump to leak hydraulic oil into the crankcase. This can lead to an over full crankcase condition and engine damage.

I don't know what kind of poles you're looking for but the pole buildings around my area use 6 X 6 pressure treated lumber for the poles. Many people prefer commercial girts for the added strength but builders generally do charge a little more for building that way.

It's been sitting all winter. If untreated it may have gelled. Consider draining the tank, adding fresh fuel, and purging fuel lines.

It could possibly be relief valve. How do you know the pump is working? Did you do a pressure check? Do you have a front loader or just the three point? It may sound dumb, but how's the fluid level?

I don't know what an Acme is nor what an original coil looked like but you might consider a Triumph motorcycle ignition coil. They're smaller than an automotive coil. (Just a thought.)

Try to check the current through each glow plug. It's generally about ten amps. Sometimes they will short to ground internally instead of going open. This will cause an excessive load on your controller. An ohmmeter isn't a real good test because the glow plug resistance is so low to start...

If you have no leak you have no problem. That's the purpose of that seal after all. You may want to pick one up just to have it on hand if ever needed.

By all means heed Rebeldad's advice. As I recall there are shims involved with the Mitsubishi pump and they affect the timing. Valley Power

Perhaps you could simply have the old Brush Hog repaired as required so that it does start and run properly then go from there with your path forward.

If it was a factory option your dealer could probably install it if the parts are still available. Do some further checking as it may not be worth the cost. There's a likelihood he'll have to split the tractor.

Given the age of the tractor you probably had incandescent bulbs. Those are not polarity sensitive. The new lights (from wherever you go them) may be LED. They ARE polarity sensitive. There is no cut and dried color code for vehicle wiring. Black is generally negative or ground. That's not...

Check your engine oil level. On many tractors a leak at the shaft seal on the hydraulic pump will cause fluid to leak into the engine's crankcase. Your oil level will rise to the point of flowing out the dipstick hole. If left unchecked this can lead to catastrophic engine damage.

The L2501 uses a 1.6 liter engine and direct injection. The other two use a 1.8 liter engine and common rail injection. I have no idea why there's such a price difference between the L3301 and the L3901 unless it comes down to people thinking the more powerful tractor should command a higher...

You probably have a simple pressure switch screwed into a threaded hole in the block. You should be able to replace it with either a sending unit or a fitting and run either a wire or a thin oil line to the dash where you may install the appropriate gauge. Was that the question?

Hi, Phillip, and welcome to TBN. It's thoughtful of you to introduce yourself at the same time you make the potential offer of manuals available.

It should be a great old tractor. Tractors of that vintage generally used a 15W-40 diesel rated oil. If you pull your oil filter your local auto parts place should be able to measure threads and seal diameter for a replacement. The same should also hold true for the hydraulic filter. Many...

Are the two similarly equipped (transmission, etc.)? The older tractor will not have the same pollution controls as the newer one. Compare the torque between the two tractors.

I have no clue what you've got but a wiring diagram would be a great thing to have. That said, I'm going to guess the four wire connector is for speakers. You can probably determine which wire is which with the help of an ohmmeter. If that works out I'll guess the three wire plug is for...

If the fuse held when installed but blew when you turned the key the wiring to the switch is probably good and I suspect the switch is good as well unless one of the contacts is internally grounded. It would, as jaxs suggested, be helpful to start isolating circuits. One of them is apparently...

You put in another fuse and it blew immediately? Did you turn anything on or did it just blow as soon as it was installed? You'll need to isolate what is supplied by the fuse to narrow it down. A schematic would be a big help.

Dipstick location and accessibility as well as oil fill location do seem to vary by model. I would prefer a fill cap on top of the valve cover like my car or last tractor but I can live with it as it is. My dipstick is exactly where it was on my old Mitsubishi albeit harder to see.

I've never done any but you could inquire at your local welding equipment supplier.

They appear to be a wonderful innovation, especially for paved or smooth surfaces. I don't believe they'd have much gripping power in the dirt. Weight is not the only criteria for improving traction, the amount of tread on the tire or the addition of chains can be another factor. Weight is...

From what I can tell (never having seen one) yours is a pretty basic tractor, probably with no computer. If the tractor dies when you lift the ground wire that probably has to do with how the fuel shutoff solenoid is wired. Try to determine how the voltage regulator is referenced to ground...

As DL implied you definitely have some sort of controller or relay in the glow plug circuit. It may run on the five amp fuse but the glow plugs, when intact and energized, will draw about forty amps. You really need a circuit diagram to determine exactly how the glow plugs work. The...

For whatever reason your regulator isn't regulating. Look for a bad or missing ground reference. Clean battery terminals and connectors, reinstalling tightly. If you can move them they're not tight. Follow your ground lead to the frame. Clean and tighten that connection. Measure your...

A glow plug works pretty much like any heater - apply voltage and it gets hot. Glow plugs normally get 10.5 volts though there are exceptions. Put a meter on your glow plug to check what voltage you're getting. Some glow plug circuits depend on a series resistor to drop the voltage. Some...

See if the dealer has the capability to reprogram or update the program in your computer. There could have been firmware or software updates since your tractor was manufactured. It's also possible your software has a glitch this would overwrite.

40,000 is a LOT of home computers to refurbish. I've only done a few dozen myself for donation from my employer to the local school district. I think my last three computers were purchased used and I donated one of them to a needy college student. The same frequently holds true for my cell...

I don't know that there is a specific purge procedure. Install the cylinder and cycle it a few times. Check your hydraulic reservoir and top up as needed.

I don't know what's normal or average but if I get eight years out of any battery I'm happy. If yours is a bit slower to start now you may be able to nurse it along but figure on replacing it before next winter. The quality of the replacement battery will have a direct on its likely longevity.

When I needed to but a smaller switch into a larger hole I used two fender washers, one on each side of the dash. I had enough threads on my switch to go that distance.

The place to start would be a meter on the glow plugs to see what kind of voltage they're getting. For most the appropriate voltage is 10.5. More voltage will shorten their lives, less will create less heat. If the voltage is correct you can check individual glow plug resistance, not their...

Yep, 2500 does sound a bit high. Since that was the indicated rpm what was the ACTUAL rpm? Is the panel available for a tractor that old? At what cost? Is the panel actually at fault or does the fault lie elsewhere? You may have a problem but a bit of troubleshooting is in order.

I have a Kubota with HST myself. The manual says shift to neutral and depress the clutch. I have found I needn't shift to neutral, depressing the clutch is enough. Of course if I'm pressing the "go" pedal it may refuse to start but that's a different issue entirely.