Search results

Perhaps you're not letting the fuel go long enough to get all the air out while bleeding. If you've substituted a different fuel filter it could be defective in some way. You may be able to rinse out your original filter in diesel to clean it then reuse it. If the filter does not seat fully...

If you remove the wire from the top and use the proper size deep well six point socket placed firmly onto the glow plug you should have no problem. Impact sockets are usually six point. An impact wrench may facilitate removal. The big trick is to make sure you don't apply torque at an angle...

If the tachometer was hard to turn in the past friction may have caused it to read low. Now you say it's reading higher than it should. I don't mean to offend but how do you know it's reading high? Have you borrowed or used another tachometer to learn the actual rpm? Perhaps a non contact...

If you have not done so go back to the person who sold you the tractor. I believe the three point hardware is removed by the vendor when the backhoe is installed but is given to the original buyer of the tractor. Of course from there it could have been lost, sold, or discarded.

The penalties on Social Security only apply if you begin drawing before your "full retirement age" which is determined by your year of birth. They also only apply to "earned income", wages paid by an employer. You are correct - it is definitely time to start retirement planning. Write your...

Blow air or run water from the engine side of the radiator to clear the outside of the core. A lot of stuff gets trapped in the cooling fins and needs pushed back out the way it entered. If you have a screen in front of the radiator clean it, too.

If there are markings on your existing glow plugs they should identify manufacturer and the specific glow plug. I would be very surprised if NGK could not provide glow plugs for your tractor. Try contacting them directly through their website. That's how I learned the type that should have...

I'm sure they could be designed shorter and of course they'd be slightly less expensive as well. I suspect they are the height they are so the operator doesn't bang his head on them. If you regularly park your tractor in a specific stall perhaps you could consider hanging a sign in that stall...

Try a six point impact socket that fits. You may need a 22 or 23 mm metric socket. In many cases in sizes over 3/4" or so an American socket is close enough to work well.

Look carefully at the dash of the new truck. With many newer vehicles there is no "under the dash". The actual location may well be somewhere hidden behind the panel which constitutes the lower dash.

Your money, your deal. My only advice is to be very sure the truck has not sold before buying the plane ticket.

It certainly sounds like one or more additional safety switches or possibly a malfunction operator presence control box.

You can probably buy the parts from Valley Power

If you have good flow and pressure the system should work. What kind of flow and pressure did you have? Look for any pinched or kinked hoses. Replace the hydraulic filter. Do you have a screen somewhere on the suction or return side of your system?

If you need a wiring diagram for your tractor check out http://www.satohparts.com/. They were my go to source for parts and information about my Mitsubishi D2350. The ignition switch is pretty generic but will probably go for about $80. Mine went out and I replaced it with an automobile...

LS is a very large South Korean tractor manufacturer. I have been told by the local LS dealer that if I need parts I can get them from New Holland as LS makes their tractors, too. I've heard from another source that LS also makes Case tractors. LS does offer more bang for the buck, possibly...

I know nothing about your conversion. I do know lithium batteries don't necessarily use the same charger as lead acid batteries. Find out if yours takes added electronics in your charging circuit or if the circuitry is built into the battery. There are some advantages to a lithium battery as...

A variable speed controller is a frequency varying switching power supply. The motor in the well is generally a three phase and quite smooth. The down side is the price of that controller. They are not readily repairable and I know of no source for rebuilt controllers. Since my old pump was...

Your brakes may or may not have enough strength to unstick your clutch. If they won't get it try putting your tractor up against an immovable object like a big tree. With the clutch pedal depressed either the clutch will unstick or the tractor will stall. You may wish to put it into your...

You may not need to replace the clutch, only get it unstuck. Whether you can replace it in a weekend depends upon you, your level of experience, your supply of tools, and your work location as well as the availability of parts or whether you want your existing clutch rebuilt. The simple answer...

Start by checking in owner manual how to bleed air from fuel lines. Ether is not recommended for diesel engines as it can cause damage due to the low flash point.

You could contact local law enforcement to inquire about theft reports.

I think you're comparing apples and oranges. If you want to compare apples to apples look at the Kubota L2501 versus the Kioti CK2610. They are of comparable weights. The Kubota LX is not as much tractor, it may be in the same power range but it's a much lighter tractor.

Nah, I got one who goes to the dealership with me to help pick out the tractor. Oh, yeah, the same one who went to the Harley dealership to help pick out a bike. She KNOWS where the tractors and bikes come from, approves, and even helps pay for them.

How is the steering wheel made? Many steering wheels are based on a ring of steel. The plastic or resin simply coats it. If that's how yours is made you could just get a lace on steering wheel cover to hide it.

It could indeed be a safety switch. With my Kubota I must depress the clutch to start the engine. You may also have safety switches to be sure the shifter is in neutral, somebody is in the operator seat, and the PTO is disengaged. I'd check those possibilities first - and perhaps check the...

While you're shopping ask the Deere dealer about the price on the Kubota L2501 or L2502. It will probably be a bit higher in price than the Kioti but may still be less expensive than the Deere.

The manual may be generic and apply to the whole CK series of tractors. I purchased a Kubota L2501 specifically to avoid having a DPF. It is the only member of the L family which does not have one. It's a pretty basic tractor - no computer either. Tier 4 tractors are required to have a DPF...

I don't have that issue but sometimes if the collars get loose at the end of the cable it can cease to drive the gauge. Pull it apart and see if the center section is intact. You may be able to get a replacement center cable from an auto parts store without buying the whole cable if it turns...

It could well be fuel related. See if the fuel flows freely from the tank. Sometimes algae or something will build up, preventing enough fuel flow. Be sure your vented fuel tank cap isn't plugged. Clean or replace the fuel filter. Bleed your fuel lines per the operator manual. Check the...

I agree with Paul. Have a hydraulic shop look at it. They'll have the parts and expertise to do a good job for far less than a new steering cylinder and less stress on you, too.

You normally remove the ground cable first. That way if you bump your wrench against anything there will be no spark as that terminal is ground. Once that cable is removed touching any wrench from the remaining terminal to the frame will do nothing. When reconnecting simply connect the ground...

You'll have to contact your dealer or check the Kioti website to learn what the warranty covers. Given the age of your tractor all your issues should probably be covered.

It sounds like a weak battery for sure. Charge battery and have it load tested. Clean terminals and cable ends. Replace cables onto battery terminals and tighten securely. If you can move they they're not secure. Follow ground cable to frame. Clean and tighten securely. You may have other...

I would expect it to be open when not energized, too. Does this mean your starter runs all the time when the key is on? That would not be good. Does everything else work properly?

You could try checking in with Agristore: https://www.agristoreusa.com/collections/pto-shafts-and-parts/binacchi

Consider taking them to a local hydraulic shop. They may be no more expensive to do the whole job than just the price of a kit from Deere and they'll likely guarantee the work.

You should put on a ply rating equal to or exceeding the original tires. Higher is generally sturdier.

The conversion price sounds high to me but I don't know what's included. I suggest doing a little surfing. It's a pretty simple conversion. If you want to go back and forth between gasoline and propane I guess it could be more complicated.

The last time I needed an odd size switch I found it on eBay. Amazon may be another option.

Try a local diesel repair shop, like where they work on "big rigs". Our local diesel repair shop does a lot of work for at least one of the local tractor dealers. They rebuilt the injectors for my Mitsubishi D2350. It turns out the parts are pretty standard. I would suggest Valley Power but...

Perhaps it's serendipity. For years my car and my pickup (a Ford and a Dodge) used the same oil filter by Bosch. Now they each have a different part number. One is very similar to the original pickup filter. The car filter is smaller in diameter. Either filter will work in either location...

The three point lowers by gravity and the knob which Eric mentioned controls the rate of flow for the lowering. It may be a knob, though on some tractors it's a lever. I don't know your tractor. Since it lowers by gravity, after opening the valve you may have to add some downward pressure to...

1647 cc is about 100.5 cubic inches. 87 cubic inches works out to about 1426 cc. The engines are obviously not the same size and I suspect a typo on the spec sheet.

You could start by contacting Nimco: https://nimco-controls.com/

The tractor may well be a Satoh. Mitsubishi purchased the brand at some point. The hydraulic system will take about five or six gallons of fluid. Use general tractor / hydraulic fluid. I had a Mitsubishi D2350 with a three position lever on the fender to the left of the seat. It was for...

Try taking one (or all) to a diesel repair shop. They may be able to rebuild them or suggest a replacement.

Sounds like you're doing everything right. Do you get any smoke? Does it try to start at all? If it's getting fuel try cleaning the air filter and make sure there's no blockage in the air path.

I don't know where you'd find the end you seek but AgriSupply carries a line of Eurocardan parts. https://www.agrisupply.com/eurocardan-parts/c/3500006/

Welcome to TBN!! Try checking in with Valley Power

I wonder if the clutch could be slipping. See if it will go in a lower range in 2WD. You could also check the clutch adjustment. You should have about an inch of free play (more or less) before you come to the resistance of actually operating the clutch.

I'd grab the manual and go through the bleeding steps again. (Don't ask.) Make sure glow plugs are getting power and working. Be sure you have a good air path through the filter.

You give very little info to go on. It does sound as though the clutch may be slipping. The cheapest and easiest starting point is checking clutch adjustment since forward motion and PTO power both go through the clutch. As a ball park starting point adjust your clutch linkage to your have...

Try to determine if that model had a work light option. My L2501 does. I have a connector under the left fender which supplies power when the key is energized. I use that connector to power may light bar. The circuit is only rated for ten amps. I purchased a 240 watt light bar which would...

With the age of the diesel, drain the tank. There may be a buildup of crud at the tank outlet. If you can't drain the fuel you'll have to address that problem first. Replace the fuel with fresh fuel. Replace the fuel filter. Bleed the air out of the fuel lines then give it another try.

I picked up a couple of the older welded four inch edge tamers in 2020. I thought that was a great product and saw no room for improvement. Now they're improved. Good deal!! I'd definitely do it again. Great product!!

I'd start by checking clutch adjustment. I suspect you should have an inch of free play before you can feel the force of the clutch. If you have no free play you may be slipping the clutch or have it partially disengaged. Why did you have no hydraulic fluid? Is there a major leak somewhere...

Are you using winterized diesel? It could also be a safety circuit, perhaps the seat switch? The switch comes to mind as I had some snow under my seat yesterday. It was enough to prevent the seat from pressing hard enough on the switch causing intermittent operation.

In addition to a possible defective receptacle (I've run into them, too) If there's another wire or fixture between that outlet and the panel the problem could be the interim outlet. Look at your outlet. If it's the type where wires push into it to make the connection the contacts may be...

I don't know the Boomer but Kubota HST units also have a clutch. Check your clutch adjustment if you have one.

Increase the duration of applying power to the glow plugs. They need to run a bit longer in cold weather. Check to see if the glow plugs are getting power. Voltage at the plug should be about 10.5, give or take. If they get power when activated check to see if they're defective.

It appears if you're writing about the L2850 it's old enough not to have a computer. That limits a lot of damage and expense right there. Since you tried to jump it backward you should probably start with the basics - fully charge the battery and do a load test. Clean terminals and cable...

I'd probably start by going through all the operator presence sensors, especially the seat switch.

By all means, jack it up to remove weight from the tires. If the stem is at the top and liquid still squirts out you may have too much liquid in your tires. I believe they should be about 3/4 full, not clear full.

They have sensors for various pressure ranges. Perhaps you need a sensor for the higher ranges. Tires also have various load ranges. There are recommended pressures for each range. You need to be sure you're not putting too much pressure into your tires for their capability. For instance...

If you don't mind dismantling it you may be able to connect with somebody with a hay trailer. You can't readily put a twelve foot wide piece on the highway but if you can secure it vertically it should be a go.

You may have to go by what is currently produced rather than by what came with the tractor twenty years ago. There's also the matter of what brands your dealer carries. The last ribbed tires I purchased were by Carlisle, I think. You could do an online search for best ribbed tractor tires or...

People usually ask about the cooling system as a whole, not just the radiator. If you have sixteen quarts of coolant on hand you should be good. If you don't need quite that much, it never hurts to have a little extra. If that's not quite enough it will get you running until you get more.

I'll agree with James but be sure to practice your welding skills and get to know the welder before entering into the project. It's a lot easier to do it right the first time than to redo it later. You may even try to get some pointers from a neighbor who has done some welding. You'll just...

It's kind of interesting. Their address is in Michigan but the phone number given is in Alabama. You're right to be leery of the site and more investigation is in order. If you see a deal which appears to be too good to be real it's usually not real.

You could mount a regular security camera at or near the house aimed at the end of the driveway. Many of them have motion detectors as well. When they detect motion they will immediately alert your cell phone and you can see who's there. Of course a stray cat, dog, deer, or whatever will also...

It sounds like a short to ground on the hot side of your headlight circuit. Your light switch may have failed internally or the wiring may be abraded or pinched at some point, possibly where it is routed through a hole or tight space. You may only have one wire from the light switch to the...

What's the condition of your battery? Have you cleaned the terminals and the cable connectors? Are the connectors good and tight? Follow the ground lead to the frame. Clean and tighten. From there you should make sure your glow plugs are getting voltage - nominal 10.5 volts at the glow...

I don't know where you'll find the block drain. I always just pulled the lower radiator hose. You may be able to get the information you need or perhaps even a manual at Valley Power

I don't understand the question. According to Tractor Data your tractor has a twelve volt charging system. Group 31 is a physical size and these batteries seem to also be twelve volt. Where does 24 volts come in?

It sounds more like a computer or electrical problem than an oil pressure problem. You may just have a loose or oxidized connector somewhere in your system. Try checking or reseating connectors.

You don't give much to go on. When you turn the key on you should get the alternator light and the low oil light. Lack of them would seem to indicate no power. The lighting circuit and turn signals are probably separate. You may have lost a fusible link or mice may have gotten into your...

Have you checked to see if the glow plugs are functioning? I don't mean just the indicator lights, I mean whether they're actually getting power and heating.

Have your tried adjusting the clutch? Try setting it so there's about an inch (2.5 cm) of free play in the pedal before disengagement actually starts. If you have too much free play it won't disengage. Of course with too little free play the clutch may slip.

For answers to all your questions I suggest getting an evaluation and bit from a second HVAC contractor. They are NOT all the same. HVAC generally falls under the purview of a mechanical engineer. Finding one of them may be a wise investment. If your contractor doesn't offer the option of...

I don't know the BX at all, On the L series there is an unused connector under the left fender. It's not real obvious as it's tied in with the other wires but it's there. It comes from the work light fuse, which powers it. If Kubota has a work light option for your tractor there is probably...

Definitely appears to be roomier than the oem unit, and probably sturdier, too.

The old black powder may no longer be available but there is a modern equivalent out there. You do not WANT a current powder used today for reloading ammunition but if you do a web search for black powder you will find it is available. Once you get the cannon ball out you can probably fire the...

I thought of upgrading my headlights but since any after dark work will probably be with the FEL I opted for an LED light bar on the ROPS instead. Kubota used some oddball bulbs in some of their headlights - shop carefully.

Welcome to TBN from the dry side of Washington.

The knob may actually be a lever, it depends on the tractor. It is generally located centered under the seat. If tightened all the way it can prevent the three point from lowering at all. The three point is powered to raise but lowers due to gravity. You may choose the lowering speed for the...

If you start by checking to see if the stop solenoid does in fact have power to stay energized then you could indeed have a diode problem. If it does not have power then the stop solenoid may have issues. From there you could check with the dealer to determine the actual diode location. The...

I'd just look for a universal tractor fluid. Your transmission generally shares the same reservoir as the hydraulic system so you want to make sure it's properly lubricated.

You could try copper sulfate. You can get the granules and spread them in the area of concern. Roots don't like it!! You could also treat the ground with some kind of pre emergent weed killer while they're dormant.

Killer deal!! It should work fine. I'm running Shell 15W 40 in my L2501. I've found it works fine here, even in the winter. We rarely see temperatures below 20 degrees Fahrenheit.

Normal charged battery voltage should be about 12.6 volts. Start by charging your battery and having it load tested. It does sound as though your alternator has issues but before tearing into it clean your battery terminals and connectors. Tighten the connectors. If you can turn or move the...

You give no indication of the expected weight, your question seems to pertain to whether forks would fit your L2501 without modifications. I'd give you a qualified yes on that as the LA525 loader is used on several L series tractors, the L2501 being the smallest of them. Mostly I move...

White smoke usually indicates the presence of water. It could be a bad head gasket, cracked head, or just water in the fuel. More guesses may follow but you didn't really give much information. If you only get white smoke when you first start the engine it can be just cold.

The only time you'll get much pressure from your pump is when there is back pressure against it. You can check pressure with a gauge. It's a low volume high pressure pump.

Older tractors (and cars) have no catch tank, just an overflow on the radiator. If filled to the brim the coolant will overflow when it gets hot due to expansion. I'll usually fill these to perhaps an inch from the overflow to allow room for expansion. If you want to look for water movement...

I've never done that. I don't have a TIG setup and I shake but I've heard of the method before. Thank you for going to the trouble of providing an illustrated step by step.

I don't know about pulling with the three point but however you pull be sure the connection to the tractor is below the centerline of the rear axle. You do NOT want to be doing a wheelie going up a hill. That's a recipe for disaster.

This is not a Chinese or Japanese phenomenon. What you are calling a Phillips head screwdriver is one of a type known as a cross point screwdriver or cruciform. You should first understand there are sizes to Phillips - 00,0,1.2.3.4 and like that. Smaller numbers are smaller sizes. Numbers 1...

What Aquamoose said. As a further explanation, the sight glass is located on the reservoir. If you raise your bucket or your three point or whatever fluid is taken from the reservoir to fill the selected hydraulic actuator therefore the level drops. When checking fluid level all cylinders...

You could also try New Holland or perhaps Case. LS tractors are sold in a variety of colors and brand names.

I usually get my info from Tractor Data but all I got for yours was it was built from 2004 to 2009. https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/003/4/5/3458-montana-3840.html

I get it. 3G service will be discontinued. I did not know that. I had understood that the CDMA platform was being discontinued and if a phone wouldn't perform on GSM it would no longer work. GSM phones are the ones which require a SiM which the service provider provides - some free, some for...

Tractor Data tells me it was produced from 1984 to 1991. You may be able to get more specific information from Valley Power https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/003/1/8/3186-mitsubishi-mt180.html

Many newer batteries are sealed and you cannot readily add fluid. If you don't let the battery go dead it should last five to ten years.

I don't know the setup on your 6060. My local Kubota mechanic advised engaging PTO at idle. If you depress the clutch as I have to and engage the PTO then the gears slow to a stop regardless how high the engine is wound. If you can release the clutch smoothly you should be fine regardless -...

Since it's a standard transmission (as opposed to hydrostatic) any general purpose tractor transmission - hydraulic oil should be fine. You can get it at NAPA or most farm and equipment suppliers.

A solar battery tender would be good. If you don't use the tractor much you could even remove the battery and put it on a battery tender in the garage or somewhere.

Check to see if you have power coming into the fuse box. If you lack power there it certainly won't go anywhere else. Try to find out if there's a large main fuse somewhere, a fusible link, or a circuit breaker somewhere prior to the fuse box. You may need to procure a wiring diagram for...

You can try The Clutch Guy - tractorclutchesrus@yahoo.com He had the best price on a water pump for my Mitsubishi tractor and it was exactly the same as the original.

The first step is probably to analyze how the system should work and why it works that way. It is pretty much the same as the cooling system on your car. The radiator will have a cap but it's not a pressure relief cap and is not normally removed other than when changing fluid. It will have a...

When engaging the PTO, with the engine at idle depress the clutch. Engage the PTO. Release the clutch. Bring the engine up to PTO speed. Always depress the clutch before disengaging PTO.

A good first step would be to determine where and how your hydraulic pump is mounted and plumbed. Remember, the hydraulic system has a LOT more pressure than the lubrication system. You could even consider asking the dealer or his mechanic about where the pumps and things are located...

Whether it's under warranty or not, I'd check in with the dealer. The tractor is probably computer controlled, that is the computer sets the throttle, not you. One of the sensors may be defective or the computer itself could have issues. It is not good to go full throttle on a cold engine.

While the deck is off attach EMT (thinwall steel conduit) for the long runs. You don't have to use the boxes and all the fittings, just use the conduit to protect the threatened areas.

You may want to look at the new L2502. It's pretty much the L2501 but I believe they've moved the brake to the left side and made a couple of other changes. There is an upgraded front loader for it as well.

If you're sure it's rust you can try draining the tank completely. Use a shop vac to get out the last of the diesel. It should also pick up any loose rust. I suspect the problem is more biological than rust, though. Is there any sort of filter screen at the output from your tank? If so...

The easiest fit would probably be the Kubota LA1055 loader. You could also opt for an after market loader such as Koyker which would come with related mounting hardware. The choice is yours but whatever choice you make it will be costly to add a loader to an existing tractor. TractorData.com...

I'm glad your problem is resolved. Many older lubricants which were once specified are no longer available. The newer gear oil probably has better lubrication qualities than the old one anyhow.

I had a Koyker loader on my Mitsubishi tractor. It was a great loader. They're made in South Dakota. They have a range of sizes and could probably recommend the correct size for you but be prepared to pay $5000 or so. Another option would be to go shopping for a tractor that has a loader and...

I went surfing. Direct and indirect injection diesels both use the pop off type injectors where each is fed separately by the injection pump. Timing and duration are mechanically controlled. There are pros and cons to direct versus indirect injection. Common rail generally runs at a higher...

Do a network search. Diesels are direct injection. Common rail is a newer technology and generally more fuel efficient. It is normally computer controlled and can adapt more quickly to changing conditions. It also tends to run cleaner.

In addition to the above, check your air cleaner if you haven't cleaned or changed it since last summer. It sounds pretty basic until you experience problems as I did. Then you become a believer in checking air filters even if you think they're clean.

You could also post your query on Orange Tractor Talks, a mostly Kubota specific website.

I bought a commercial three point ballast box. It already had a two inch receiver attached. It even came with the retaining pin.

Tractor Data is usually pretty accurate and they indicate your tractor was built in the range of 1973-1977. The tractor shown does not list a loader as an option and it appears really light to add a backhoe. That causes me to wonder if you have stated the correct model number or if Kubota used...

I'm sure the dealer has all that information on hand and would be happy to sell him the required fluid and filters.

Does the choke actually function or does the lever just move? Pull the air cleaner and see if moving the lever actually moves the choke plate. You could have a clamp slipping on the cable or linkage. Oh, and welcome to TBN.

Measure your battery voltage. With the voltmeter still connected try the starter. The battery should be about 12.6 volts initially. If it drops below, say, ten volts it's time for a new battery. If the voltage is indeed good check the voltage getting to the starter.

Keep your attachment point (whatever it is) BELOW the rear axle. Excessive pulling force applied will then tend to pull your front end down not up.

I wouldn't be as its CAUSE. It is from water leaking from somewhere, now or in the past. I see a hose just above the area. I'd check it carefully for possible leaks.

I would not assume condensation unless it's on the input line to the heater. Moisture doesn't tend to condense on a warmer surface than the surrounding air. I'd look for leaks or drips somewhere. The drain valve could be dripping. The input or output locations could be seeping a bit. The...

The third wire on your genset is neutral, not ground. That is why a ground is advised. Ground the frame of your genset to the house ground, a ground rod, or a metal water pipe. I'd be more concerned about preventing the panel from feeding back into the grid. At the very least you should plan...

Go to your fuse panel and see what fuse is in place for your accessory receptacle. I doubt it's over fifteen amps. At full draw that would yield a maximum of 180 watts (15 X 12 volts). That is NOT very much heat. You need a different heat source.

Three weeks isn't very long for a battery to hold a charge. Your tractor apparently isn't right yet. Is there a REPUTABLE dealer within driving distance? Beyond that get a service manual to track down how it's supposed to be wired. I think you still have wiring issues.

If you put an item in your cart you haven't yet purchased it. The price is not firm until the final purchase. Much of the stuff at Amazon is purchased THROUGH Amazon, not FROM Amazon. It works basically like eBay, Walmart, NewEgg, or many other places. Amazon prices are not always the lowest...

I've read of this but never experienced it. As I understand the normal issue, it's like the clutch is always out. You can depress the pedal but the clutch won't operate. You can start the tractor in neutral but can't shift into gear. If you start in gear it's moving. The pedal not returning...

I doubt the oil found its way to the clutch plates. If the engine speeds up, especially in a higher gear, but the tractor doesn't that is frequently a sign of a slipping clutch. Selecting a lower gear may get you by temporarily. Try adjusting your clutch linkage to give you about an inch of...

Normally the vapor barrier on insulation goes toward the inside of the building. I would go with a vapor barrier if you plan to insulate and heat.

Actually Satoh and Mitsubishi merged in 1980. In 1984 the Satoh name was dropped. My Mitsubishi didn't have a radiator drain I could ever find. If yours is threaded into the radiator you may be able to tighten it. Inquire at an automotive repair shop. It's also possible it can be replaced...

If you have run the tires on the vehicle at all you can't stud them. Minute bits of dirt collect in the hole and the studs won't stay. Studs are generally for icy roads, anyhow. The road surface doesn't matter if it's covered by ice and snow. If you can see it's a gravel road you probably...

Before tearing things apart I'd try fishing. I don't know the shape of the piece you dropped into the tank but if you can see it using a flashlight from the fill port you may be able to grab it with mechanical fingers. You could also try bending a hook on a piece of stiff wire. If it's steel...

You must have had a reason for the replacement harness. Would the tractor run before you replaced the harness? Does it have an ignition coil? When you turn on the key do you get power to the coil? Will the starter turn the engine over? I can walk you through the troubleshooting but without...

I got a longer top link when I put Pat's on my L2501. My existing top link was at the limit. I measured the length and used that for a mid range on the new one. I had to get a longer drive shaft for my mower, too. It had been marginal but Pat's put it to scary.

The top mark will indicate full. The bottom mark is to indicate too low. Anywhere between the marks is good but even with the top mark is ideal.

My suggestion would still be a box blade. One side of my three point has a threaded turnbuckle for leveling. It can also be used for angling the implement. The box blade can then be used to cut a kind of V on the side of the driveway without touching the driveway at all.

I had a D2350. I sold it last year. I bought my repair manual from Valley Power. It had a wiring diagram in it as I recall, as well as other good info. The operator manual I purchase didn't apply to that tractor, though. They're located in Roanoke, VA.

I don't know about your hydraulic system. Your engine is a diesel so be sure to used diesel rated engine oil. Your manual should tell what weight to use. In most cased 15W-40 is the common choice.

If you have a schematic diagram available or can score one it would facilitate the process - perhaps even allowing repair of the original circuit board and permit use of the original light mounting.

I had a Mitsubishi with the same issue. The shaft seal on the hydraulic pump would start leaking and since the shaft was driven off the crankshaft the hydraulic oil ended up in the crankcase. Replacing the pump fixed the problem.

If your fuses are good and you have nothing to the dash you need to trace the wire. Possibly chewed by a mouse somewhere along the line and it finally separated. It's also possible there's a fusible link in there somewhere. Try to score a wiring diagram.

Check with a local diesel repair shop. Perhaps it can be rebuilt.

Black smoke and difficult starting can be attributed to a dirty air filter. Don't ask. If you put a voltmeter on your glow plugs you will get a reading (nominal ten volts or so) on the meter. If they are getting power they can get quite hot. You can check each glow plug with an ohmmeter to...

I don't know that it matters whether you call it hydraulic oil or hydraulic fluid. ISO 46 is what you're after regardless of which name used.

Before tearing the engine down try checking the air filter. If it's clogged from a summer of dust it will be getting too much fuel for the amount of air coming in.

You want to spend more money for less tractor? Unless the LS has turned into a money pit with lots of repairs somewhere along the line I'd stick with the LS as long as I could get parts when needed.

You should be able to readily pull the pump. I'm not sure how you plan to check it. Your Case is made by Mitsubishi. I had a Mitsubishi tractor of about the same vintage. I took my pump to a local hydraulic shop where I learned repair parts are not available. I was able to find a brand new...

You may have a hydrostatic transmission and still have a clutch - I do. It is important to have a bit of free play before it starts to engage, though. About an inch is usually good. Sometimes the transmission will find itself between gears in kind of a pseudo neutral. If you have a manual to...

It may work like a car. In many cars when you go to the start position most if not all other electrical circuits are disconnected to allow maximum power to the starter. When the key is released to the run position the starter disengages and everything else comes on. That's not a for sure it's...

You can put a meter on one of the glow plugs and see if they get any voltage. That may help track it down. It could also be a defective fuse. With temperatures in the thirties the glow plugs should definitely turn on. Many tractors allow you to move the ignition key to the left to activate...

Try to identify the source of the oil leak. Make sure it's not dripping down from somewhere else. Since you say oil not grease you probably have a four wheel drive tractor. They do have a kind of gearbox near each front wheel.

It certainly does not sound normal for the manufacturer to spend the money to add a light connected to nothing. If you can buy or borrow a wiring diagram you should be able to solve your mystery fairly quickly. As a work around you could run a wire from a glow plug to the light so you'd know...

A common problem among two stroke engines is a clogged fuel filter. Many of them hide it within the fuel tank. Some are easier to access than others.

You dismiss the battery very quickly. Why do you think it's not a battery thing? That's the first thing I'd suspect. The tractor is five years old and has been sitting for a year. Put a charge on the battery. After charging have it load tested. Clean the terminals thoroughly. Clean the...

I don't know who's good and who's not but if you're looking for a well made boot consider shopping at Home. Another good one is West Coast Shoe Company. These are quality boots which really can be rebuilt. They even do custom fitting is you wish.

I'd start by putting a volt meter on the glow plugs to see if they're getting voltage and how much.

Using ether to start a tractor is not the best way to go. It has a much lower flash point than diesel and its use can potentially damage an engine. If the dealer can't diagnose the problem perhaps a real diesel mechanic can.

Check with the local game warden. You are probably within your rights terminating the offending animals. The warden will tell you about how you may legally dispose of the carcass.

After you're done checking the cables as suggested - or even before, clean the battery terminals well. Clean the clamping ends of the cables well. When you reinstall the cables on the battery be sure they are secure. If you can move them they're not tight. Follow the ground wire to the...

Your problem sounds intermittent - the worst kind. It also sounds as thought one of your safety switches is not making contact part of the time so yes, it could be the seat switch. While you're looking at switches look at how they're mounted and the stability of the device being checked. My...

This is kind of an apples and oranges comparison but lacking some important details. The rpm or engine speed will probably come into play here as well. A generator is very picky about the speed it runs to put out a specific voltage and frequency. Do you want to compare consumption at idle...

I'd go with one whose center is about 27 inches. That gives you reasonable adjustment either way.

Clean battery terminals and connectors on cables. Replace cables and tighten securely. If you can move them they're not secure. Follow ground wire to frame. Clean and tighten. Charge the battery and try it again. This may not fix your problem but it's always a good starting point.

Have you considered checking at an auto parts store? I have a couple locally that could probably match it.

It appears you're well into the hard stuff. It may seem pretty obvious but have you checked the air filter and airway from there to the intake? Experience has shown me the dumb stuff can create real problems. Along the same vein, how about the fuel filter and a supply of clean fuel?

Reading Tractor Data I gather that the tractor has hydrostatic power steering. The transmission may be either nine speed manual or hydrostatic. If the glow plugs don't work, that can be fixed. I would not want a tractor which required pulling by another tractor to start it. Of course it's...

I suspect it's much like the cover on a PTO shaft at the rear. They commonly come with a short chain at each end. The chain at one end is secured to the tractor and the other to the implement. The shaft can then spin inside the cover which is held stationary by the chains. Two chains are...

Sixty inch decks do put a terrific load on the engine when being engaged, but also when mowing. I did have a 54" Craftsman which behaved in a similar manner. It turned out it was only running on one cylinder. You might try to confirm both cylinders of this mower are actually running.

The dipstick is probably correct and yes, a clogged vent can cause overflow. The only reason a dipstick would be incorrect is probably if you have the wrong dipstick.

If you feel you MUST lubricate consider dry graphite powder or molybdenum disulfide powder. Of course you could go whole hog and drill and tap the new top link then install a zerk. Grease will tend to attract dirt. This isn't really a moving surface except during adjustment so the main reason...

If you've not done so, clean or replace the air filter.

Has the tractor ever run for you? What did you do before it quit starting? Does the starter turn the engine over? I don't know what "the 3 drains" are. If you've run it out of fuel follow the bleeding procedure in the manual. Be sure the air cleaner is clean and the air path is clear.

The tractor appears to weigh about 3500 pounds but I don't know if that includes the blade. https://tractor-data.com/case-350/

Depending on where you get it price could be a real pro. The moisture included in it could be a con, though. I think my Kubota recommends no more than ten percent biodiesel but I'm not sure why.

You have a thirty five or forty year old tractor. If you've not done so, clean and tighten battery terminals and connectors. Follow the ground lead to the frame and clean and tighten there as well. In my experience with cars and tractors the red charging light should only be on when the key...

I think I'm confused. You worked on your tractor and it puts out seventeen volts. You replaced the voltage regulator and the voltage didn't climb at all. The system is supposed to be twelve volts. The regulator should drop it to about fourteen volts.

Before splitting the tractor check your clutch adjustment and look for part of the linkage that possibly came undone. When a clutch fails it usually gives some warning like slipping in higher gears. A failed clutch does not necessarily get easier to depress.

In cooler weather it's recommended to let my Kubota run for awhile before using it. This allows the fluids to come up to temperature. Start the tractor then have another cup of coffee. That should do it.

You could check with a radiator shop to see if it can be rebuilt.

If your terminals aren't making good contact your alternator may not charge the battery. Begin by charging the battery fully, then have it load tested. That will confirm the battery is good. Before reinstalling clean the terminals thoroughly as well as the cable ends. Connect cables securely...

I don't know what an Orschelins may be but it doesn't sound like a real hydraulic shop. I suggest finding a different hydraulic shop.

It sounds as though the lever may be moving on its own. If that's the case look for some kind of friction adjustment at its pivot to hold it where you put it.

If you lack the manual you should probably consult with the dealer. I suspect the full synthetic Shell Rotella in 15W-40 would be appropriate. Add five quarts and check your dipstick. If it's low add as required.

Your Kioti dealer would probably be happy to sell you a work light with the correct plug to simply insert. My Kubota dealer was willing to do that. Instead I purchased the proper connector online and added my own light for a fraction of the price. Kioti doesn't MAKE the connectors, you simply...

If a specific brand was hands down the best then the other companies would have probably gone out of business. What's the best brand of car or truck? I suspect it's the same answer.

I don't know old Ford tractors so I don't know the expected pressure but I suspect it should be twenty to thirty pounds. Low oil pressure may be loose or worn bearings or the pressure relief spring. Too light an oil can also lower pressure. I suspect you should be running about a thirty...

I'm sure the suggestions are good but for my Mitsubishi I contacted NGK and they gave me the correct number. My tractor had the wrong glow plugs from the dealer. I contacted Valley Power and they gave me the correct number. I also contacted NGK and they concurred.

Basic engine horsepower should also be considered. Above 25 horsepower additional electronics and hardware are required, namely a diesel particulate filter (DPF). I stayed just under 25 for my ten acres for just that reason.

Watch your battery voltage while you attempt to crank the tractor. If it drops to eleven or perhaps 10.5 volts the battery is probably good enough but you could still have dirty connections at the battery or the point at which the ground connects to the frame. If the battery goes below about...

To answer your question - the glow plug controller probably powers just the glow plugs. With the cooler weather you probably need functioning glow plugs to start the engine from cold. If your starter rotates the engine and you have fuel at the injection pump you should start - assuming you...