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How much play are you allowing in your arms? And are your pins the largest that will fit? Edit: and which direction are your pin holes set? Have not lost any on mine in 3 years.

Gear oils emulsify and then separate again (they do not homogenize), as I said they are helpful and show when you have an issue right after use. From your link: "Low emulsion formation Gear oils, more than almost any other commonly used oil, need to emulsify water in order for it to be...

That is what the specifications say: ISO VG 46 (Agri UDT) is specified to not emulsify when exposed to water and is viscosity stable at all its full temperature range. SAE will emulsify when exposed to water/condensation and is viscously stable at a specific temperature range and is derated...

Just check your axle often if you switch to an SAE, when it emulsifies, drain and dry the water out. It will happen more often if you have wide temperature swings.

This is the basic configuration (it's out of the MT160-MT180 manual and the port is on the side and not the front, but the premises are the same).

Yup that is what I expected! That hump is where your hydraulic adapter is supposed to go for the FEL and when you re-route to support your 3-point and FEL

Can you show the second image without your left comment? It looks a lot like they bypassed the hydraulic adapter port and disabled the three point. On yours I am fairly positive it is on the front flat part under your comment bubble.

Stake your levels so you know when the 2" is out.

Final drives switch to gear oil? I am out of date.

There are a few different flow control types, some are central, some are on each spool valve. Anyway, if it's not your flow control: (and the very obvious hose split is ruled out), spool seals in the valves or bypass are an easy check, your hydraulic strainer is harder to check, and I hope it...

The usual reason not to switch is that you have enough leftover in the pail from changing your hydraulic fluid to fill the front as well. One less oil hanging around on a shelf.

You check that you didnt bump your flow control?

Can always make a shorter auger: grind and tap for a new cutting edge set. Auger cutting edges are usually under $20 each.

Were they not replacing their cutting edge?

I hope you mean something like OX-guard which is an alloy oxidation inhibitor and not a dielectric.

Damaged an auger that heavy, no. An auger that heavy and that size will be rough on a 19hp, do you have the hydraulic flow to run it? Skidsteer pumps are a fair bit higher than tractor, you may need a flow doubler.

So... did you put the dielectric grease between the ground ring and chassis? If so take it off and clean between the ring and metal and screw threads. Dielectric grease inhibits electrical connections, stops corrosion, high voltage can still jump through it, however low voltage (like ground...

Stakes, string, level, and a 2x4 or 2x6. Laser level is hard to see in sunlight so the stakes and string work.

Don't basic tractor injector pumps run on a normal cam type system?

You would have to buy the powersport version for a high aluminum system at twice the cost of a regular system.

Okay I was lazy and looked up the troubleshooting list: #2 after wong/bad coolant is/are clogged deisel injectors for producing heat above the normal operating temperature of 175-185F. I had forgotten about the pump and injectors possibly causing heat issues.

Salvage yards, military surplus, shipment manifests, etc. Could pull serial numbers for 3 cyl Yanmar, Mitsubishi, and Kubota engines used in generators, reefers, waterpump stations, mairine drives, etc. There are also many 1 and 2 cylinder air cooled diesels out there as well. Or we could...

Well over half of the diesel engines in existence have no thermostat. Especially on industrial engines, it has very little impact or need, they do not utilize a bypass.

If you have a direct gear drive you can turn your crank any direction you want. The engine is not really going to enjoy being unbalanced in a non-interference engine (the mass starts rotation in the wrong direction). You may want to consider a different pto connection, either a hydraulic...

The image appeared to show little to no air movement on the the plastic bag, so it seems the drawthru might be impacted. The grasshopper ZT have went through a lot of engine combinations; difficult to know if this is original or a repower. That was the only reason for the question of blade...

Cheapest will be from a reefer unit or a bobcat style welder. The reefer units would probably be the easiest to find.

There are many, it is a generic industrial engine. Measure it and look it up.

Were you using an aluminum coolant additive (some ford trucks and other specialized vehicles require it)?

Diesel and petrol engines use additives for different reasons. However, I see that it has not been asked if the fan blades have damage or even worse was put on backwards? The only image has the fan running. The question about the worn belt was a good one as well since the fan will slip.

Most are concentrated, they fall into a few types: High Aluminum Systems, Asian-Euro import spec, American Domestic Spec, Above zero F, below zero , and a couple others. Mitsubishi are industrial engines, you can use either import spec or american spec. Unless you get more benefits and live in...

You do not really need one... maybe if it is hot enough where you are, but then you should be working early/late after the heat is off the fields. Standard coolant suitable for your climate.

Picture 3 shows where you would connect your FEL lines. Currently you do not have quick connects, I would suggest adding them myself. A local hydraulics or tractor shop can provide them. Unfortunately, without the connectors, it will be a messy job to swap. How I would do it is: Make sure...

That second image is from a tractor supply in Poland.

This is from the MT180D parts catalog, since you have a Grey MT1601D you have a mix of MT180 and MT160 parts. https://tractorandtillerparts.com/10070641001-seal-case-pivot/ Valley wants $38/each https://southern-global.com/shop/front-axle/oil-seal-fas-mt1007/ Southern Global wants $24/each...

Pull it, read the numbers stamped into it or measure it and order some. Lots of places to get seals many specifications from. Not sure if yours are the same as mine, but I'll see if I can pull the numbers. Your other alternative (for a while) is to go to a thicker oil; what were you...

Standard Satoh/Mitsu extra valve and ports.

You mean for the hydraulics? You would plug them in at the ports near your seat after the FEL is mounted on the tractor

Okay, you have a full FEL. You just need to build/adapt the belly mounts/bracket.

Without the ability to down tilt, are you planning to shovel out the bucket every time you use it? With a static shovel bucket, it uses a higher lifting point than a blade does, you would be better off using your three point. Alternatively you would need two more rams and one more valve to...

You sure it is not one of the Haban MTM48 Rear mowers?

Depending on where you live, good condition greys are usually between 2-4k, excellent are 3-8k. Towards the higher end price range if they have FEL. Usually a tractor is something you need and comes along at a price that works. If it does its job, it is worth the price, if it doesn't...

... why are you looking for a valuation?

Yup, just have to find a spot to mount it.

It is a diesel, no. You can refit and use a spin on filter for water separation though. It definitely needs to be bled for it to get the diesel into the injector pump and injectors. It's a simple process, crack the flarenuts until the air is gone. If you want the old ring, most older ag...

Its actually a standard industrial plug.

Go the other route: use the block heater pad. It's hard to say if you can get or cross that plug. Or park inside a semi-heated shelter.

Has it been verified that he even has a fuel shutoff solenoid?

That is not always correct, the starter uses a different ground path than the rest of the system.

Check your grounding.

This says the fuse is for your lights. If you are not getting power to you glow plugs when you have the ignition in the glow position, there is a good chance the broken wire is one of the wires to them. Maybe it will attach this time? There is a RW to both your headlights and between your...

The MTE 2000D should be 4WD, I do not have that specific series in my I&T service manuals.

Aha, the thread came up. Tapatalk didn't want to find it for me. The I&T manual does not specify any difference, you can also check sparex.

Great job! Sorry, I forgot to restart tapatalk and was not getting updates. Depending on your fluid specs you might be able to get away with a single bucket of 66 Agri Power Trans fluid for both of those. Both my hydraulic and gear oil specs happen to fall within that one and it makes it...

There is this interesting comment from Mitsubishi on their glow circuit. I have yet to figure out which wires are the heat and timer wires on mine- either that or they are missing.

Yup Kernopelli is right (and faster at reading than me too!). Number 15 is your hi-low gear, just in front of the case bracket. If it moves on the shaft a bit, then it is the "range shift arm" that goes through the case that is seized up.

Yeah it's just the safety starter switch. As you can see from this image, the high and low speed shifter is not that complex. If it's not the linkage, then its internal.

The clutch has to be engaged to shift high/low at a stand still. (Just stating the obvious) You might need to pop the top off and make sure there isnt a problem with the gear mesh. You should be able to see any issues from the top side. I attached an image of the 6 forward gears, in grey are...

ACC is usually accessories, you would not want to attach your glows to this as it is always on. It's for lights and stuff. Maybe this is a better image for yours:

They need to be connected to power momentarily, if you note the conversion image: power is supplied on TS (glow), and on the start position. When the tractor is running there is no power to these. Not sure if this will zoom up enough, but I cant extract the page easily on my phone.

You should be stopped, in neutral when you shift high and low. Also your clutch is in OR out, you do not feather it unless you want the fun of splitting your tractor to replace the disc. I had the same ignition issue, but due to the key being lost and not being able to get the proper switch. I...

An image of the markings would be helpful, one might just be a casting flaw or rating. Mine, from after Mitsubishi took over Satoh, is the inside mark on the pulley. I attached the capture from the service manual for mine - if it's the same the second mark, it is the IT mark. I am guessing IT...