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Fiberglass is hard to weld....

Put chain hooks/slots over where hydraulics/arms attach to bucket, seems to be strongest point on bucket... Not a real fan of lifting/pulling from center of bucket but its ok to secure a load in bucket.... Several threads already on forum that address this issue...

Look under relay pack for wire colors? Maybe check owners manual for wiring diagram...

Maybe try to identify line to (at) 3PH and follow it back to manifold block (on valve body) and it should identify PB port...

I would be more in favor of bolt on as in post #2.... Or as some others state 3PH style receiver on rear...

Maybe raise top plate up a tiny bit and put a sheet of cement board between plate and plywood as insulator....

I did, spent $25 for kit with 5 "O"' rings and instruction sheet.... Followed instructions and was very cognizant of all things being clean and inspecting everything. Got it all together....Still Leaking.... Easier to throw a quart of oil in reservoir (old splitter uses DEXRON II) now and then...

A side issue is maybe trailer is to big or to small to do job.... My 16ft tandem axle car carrier can certainly be moved by my 25 hp. SCUT but it's a impractical trailer for most of (75%) of my property....

Awesome.... Finally got to use my new build the other day.... What a improvement over sawhorses and plywood or garage floor....

Scroll way down or search.... IF the 1725 is similar in design as a 1715, there is a thread of how the lines are run, how to easily intercept them and so on.... Possibly some information to help you here...

Maybe you should have her do your welding projects from now on.....

Well some days I may be a welder, but some days I'm a "grinder"... Once I get past grinder stages, I'll give up my amateur status....

Mine free wheels with brake off and out of gear (in neutral).... Its something that must be tractor specific, not HST in general.... Each tractor owner needs to experiment on how HST operates and adjust its use accordingly.... Apparently not not all tractors with HST function the same....

Most impressed with the one that is highlighted, but I'm just a amateur at this....

Interesting video....

|Or parking brake in your car or PU truck....

Only problem with HST'S (at least mine- MF GC 1715) if you do not set the brake, and take it out of gear it will [free] roll..... Always brake on, then take out of gear, put in gear then take brake off..... And dropping FEL for the drag it causes on ground is extra security....

Low end rebar is pretty much junk/mild steel rolled with not much regard for quality.... BUT.... Good quality rebar will have information about its source and composition.

I actually have two low end ($$$) 1/2 drive impacts and both have variable settings....Usually just "snug" things down with impact and use torque wrench for final torque for critical items like wheel lug nuts.... Never really trusted "torque setting" determined with impact alone... Saves...

But some of us can not invest in both.... For some of us it's either pneumatic or more portable battery.... And this tit for tat game can go on forever.... I have a 4:1 torque multiplier that can handle up to 250 ft-lbs input and produce 1000 ft-lbs out put, sort of trumps you Onyx air...

So what, I have 120 ft. of hose ... Hose is cheapest part of equation... Still does no cover my 5 acres..

But its cheaper for me to buy electric as IF I go with big air (which I only have small air now and limited air tools ) it's going to cost me $1000 for good compressor, and tools is still attached by a hose.... Does not help if vehicle I am trying to change tire on is beyond limit (length) of...

ITs called living on the edge.....

Check high and low pricing on e-bay, put yours somewhere in the middle for local sale..... There is always someone on local "Craig's List" looking for a "deal"...

If a MIG welder you are considering is flux core only (FCAW) or does not come hose and regulator for solid wire welding (GMAW) just walk on by.. This goes for any brand or price range..... The mistake I made was I bough a welder that was to small for "some" projects.... I have a Hobart Handler...

Problem is (for me) its still attached to compressor....

Very true, my welding manual states a good brazing rod can have a 70,000 psi rating were may arc rod are below that....

Do you mean a capstan....

If you are having trouble seeing where your weld bead is going, and you have AD helmet try turning shade down a little, try 2 diopter cheater lenses in helmet and add a lot of ambient light to where you are trying to weld.... I find adding head lamp like in image below for old tired eyes...

By the documentation supplied above.... I would be highly suspicious of Fuse #5 in fuse block... It seems to supply "12 volts" to just about all lamps in dash (you did state all the lamps were not working) .... And yes lamp #55 is your Alternator lamp...I would start trouble shooting for...

Any major tractor/farm supply should have one ... All you need to know is the "length"...

If its a "One wire" system this is typically a VW lament when converting from generator to alternator.... But its typical of how many alternators work... BUT you can also create a condition called "run on" its when alternator is in charge mode and can supply enough voltage through lamp to...

After revisiting this and other parts of forum, really beginning to rethink this... Might be cold rainy nigh project in the heated shop... https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/bucket-level-indicator-rod-useful.436927/page-4#post-5979756

Got to be at least 50 possible tools here (and other crap you can ignore) ...

Will agree to smaller winch.... 12k is just a bit over kill with maybe a 1500 pound log....

SS is great for that.... Only use SS when necessary for food grade work, and only use food grade "dope" for lubricating threads....

Probably if you take a rag and cover ball and give it sharp rap against chassis or with hammer, it will release pressure and you may end up with small wet spot on rag, or not but pressure will be released... There is also some different tools to supposedly ease the problem, have seen...

The thing is one can prevent pieces of PTFE tape from coming lose and clogging system if you start the tape wrap leaving 1-2 thread bare at beginning of fitting....

Ditto.... Dont think a reputable manufacturer would place a hose just so as to make it vulnerable. Think ZIP tie or spring to hold it up.... And reroute and guard plate would be even better.....

MY 1715 spec at 1920PSI....

Then there is this option if the Everlast does not meet you ideals... https://www.hobartwelders.com/equipment/welders/multiprocess/multi-handler-200-m30242

According to this site it would appear there is no PB (power beyond) capabilities if this is correct valve... http://www.princehyd.com/Products/Hydraulic-Valves/Mono-Block/Log-Splitter http://www.princehyd.com/Portals/0/valves/ValvesLsRD25.pdf?020820160708

Sorry but your initial comment does not read that way, and I don't really thinh I was name calling.... IF you really want to learn...... https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/bucket-level-indicator.443713/

NO wonder the is no drawbars and nus and bolts at local farm supply.... NO wonder the is no drawbars and nut and bolts and washers at local farm supply....

A couple of things I find useful...

How complicate can it be to swap a couple of wires or flip a switch?....

This subject has been addressed many time in many forums..... Some of us find them very useful and some are to stubborn to accept the fact the some tools work for others even if you don't fine them useful..... For me it's kind of nice to know when I have my brush forks on and can not even see...

Weigh difference is between old skool full transformer machines and new inverter machines, my understanding is new type inverter machine they up voltage and frequency of input so it can be used with a greatly reduced transformer size (weight) and them brought back down to tradition (industry...

Use Google Images and look up "log skidding sled" ... Many options...

As said before electric winches are not really compatible with tractor electrical system.... Have 10,000 lb winch on Jeep and have very large amp hour AGM battery and 100 amp alternator and winch can suck so much power from system in a few minutes of pulling, even with engine running it will...

Obviously through this discussion there is a lot on misunderstanding about NPT fittings... Back to NPT VS NPTF https://www.buyfittingsonline.com/pages/npt-vs-nps-vs-nptf-thread-connections-the-difference.html

Dont usually carry chain's unless I think I'm going to need them.. But I did this for basic storage (rags, tools, extra clevis pins, mechanics tie wire etc).... 50 Cal ammo box.....

Lots of good information about batteries and maintaince here.... http://www.batteryfaq.org/

FYI they do make "thread gauges" in Both SAE and METRIC so its easier to identify thread pitch instead of bringing home a assortment of nuts/bolts the don't fit...

IF you are only going to use wire feed welder for thinner materials, maybe a simple top of the line 120 Volt welder that can do either FCAW or GMAW is in you future..... Limiting your self to flux core only is probably not a really good thing, I use solid wire and shield gas almost exclusively...

Some auto parts like NAPA and O'Reilly's do make hoses and usually have substantial supply of "common" fittings...

Just a note that the BROTEC comes with everything you need to install.. No micky-motion, no exasperating Google searches or trips to hardware store....

Use this on water, fuel, oils, and anything with tapered threads...

6.5 HP Predator is 212cc.... And outlet from control valve to tank should be low pressure side... The pressure relief setting controls max pressure from pump to control valve...

Nope, welded factory wheels..... Only go on one way...

OOPS... Mouse poniter must have slipped when making link selection and being the dummy I am I didn't catch it....

I was thinking Honda or B&S to replace blown engine on my acquisition, but the cost were in range of $350 and UP.... Can buy 2-3, 6.5 HP Predator motors for that amount of one Honda or B&S if HF I have now does not survive well...

Put wheel spacers on axles and problem goes away..... Also horizontal stability increases...Win-win... https://bro-tek.com/products/index.php?s=&searchc=1&addon%5B%5D=Massey+Ferguson&addon2%5B%5D=1825E&srt= Buy once, cry once, be happy for long time...

Did same thing on 30 year old DURR splitter.... Repairs on 5 hp Briggs were more than cost of 6.5 HP Predator from HF.... Everything bolted up just fine.... And some of the explosive "pops" are surprising specially when it spits the log out... Leaned to stand sideways to the splitter, got to...

Where is close?

Finally don't have to improvise.... https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/finally-a-welding-table.446866/

Mine...

Weight of basic tractor is 3640 pound's, plus what ever attachments. Trailer should be fine as designed..... Most straps are rated at 2-3000 pounds working with burst to around 8-10,000 pounds... Strapping down a tractor should be no different than a car IF STRAPS ARE IN GOOD REPAIR....

I hate rust....But not to point a item has to be hospital sterile... All the salvaged materials were of different colors....

As BCP states..... Do your own independent search........ $2,800 for two axles is more than you can pay for some new trailers... You might consider putting brakes on only one axle... I have a 7000 gross weight tandem axle trailer and it only has brakes on one axle... Always found "etrailer"...

Definitely need counter weigh is and serious lifting with FEL And no pics are not photoshoped... There is low bumper on JD (that you can not see) that wedges under lip of bucket... And JD weights in at 520 lbs. according to JD documentation

Would seem to me it would be easier to repair the receiver once, than have to change the quick change plate every time you want to change usage/application.

Where does you right hand normally rest on steering wheel....To me that would be logical position... But my SCUT has power steering so I don't need any knob....

Question from hydraulic newbie.... Why the label of "N" on port, am I to guess it is also to be the less common designation for "PB" port that would go to down stream hydraulics such as 3PH in a series plumbed system? Sort of wonder because all the hydraulics study I have been exposed to the...

I fabricated a set of forks, to do various jobs around the property, mainly for brush work, but it also doubles as a sort of pallet forks and could be used for various lifts.... Depends on what need may be "after" construction work is done...

Had a problem with tractor whistling when throttling up.... Traced it to a mouse (dead) and mouse nest in air cleaner.... Easily put a screen on tube feeding air cleaner, solved problem so far.... On my JEEP I leave hood up and put mechanics trouble light under hood area on a time clock....

I have had best luck is "sticky boards".... But you have to have strong stomach with live critter wiggling in sticky goo and have to send it off (.177 cal. pellet pistol) to its final resting place... Would actually prefer "snap" traps but finding a bail they like has been a mystery....

Go to YOUTUBE and watch some of the videos on heavy equipment fails.... You will quickly realize countries out side US have little or no regards for human life and properly operating.. equipment....

Guess the "WHY" question was not well under stood... it was WHY would you want a buddy seat on your tractor....

WHY?

Had a brand new can of Rust-oleum paint just being miserable, was sputtering and causing runs and just nasty to work with..... Set can in pan of hot water for about 10-15 minutes and can was comfortably warm to touch and it sprayed great....

Missing return spring?

And the reason?

Well after several false starts and road blocks I have a welding table... A while back I acquired a piece of 1/4 inch plate that measures 26X28 inches....A while after I got a set of casters from local tractor supply... Some time has gone by... A few days ago I went to local metal supplier and...

Here is a thought.... IF you are using a PTO or Hydraulic device like generator or hydraulic log splitter maybe make a "bypass" unbiblical to seat switch and have a mate plug on device wired to same parameters as seat occupied switch for device that requires tractor to stay running while...

Regulators don't need to match, they just need to properly regulate pressure needed to maintain sufficient flow to torch.... "Matching" in most cases is purely aesthetics... Probably a lot cheaper to have regulator rebuilt again... IF it has blown diaphragm its probably just old tired material...

A $125 tablet can bring your computer based manuals right to your work site...

IF its direct from tractor manufacturer it may be ok.... IF its back woods scan of paper manual be ware...

Pictures.... Helps us understand the problem...

See post #22.... https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/chain-sharpening-woes.445560/page-3#post-6186438

Replace the Optima with an Odyssey. Ever since Optima moved production to MEXICO it has been crap.... https://www.odysseybattery.com/ Have one in my Jeep, probably going on 7 years now, twice I though something killed it (dome light when door was not shut properly) when it was so low it...

https://weldingtipsandtricks.com

Adjustable end wrench, fencing pliers, roll of "mechanics" wire, some extra lynch pins & hair pin clips, band aids, paper towels.... Couple of clean rags (stored in ZipLock bag) for things to big for band aid... Hmmm... A pair of channel locks might be good add....

I don't disagree but here is opinion from my welding manual...

IN theory the hose from PB valve (valve in series ahead of BH Valve) should connect to the P fitting of new valve and the Tank line for new valve should use the same line for "tank" as BH valve ... Main loop of hydraulics for "new valve" should be exactly same as for BH valve...

My MF HST requires shift to be in neutral..... All tractors manufacturers seem to have a different approach on concept of tractor running when operator is off the seat, just as some live by them, some swear at them, some disable them....

Lean to put tractor in neutral and set brake..... Tractor should continue to run when you leave seat...

Video has some nice music....

Auto body shop at times use a MIG welder to tack about ever inch or so along seam/crack.....When they reach end they start over and tack next to existing one... Repeat process till seam is completely welded, grind, auto body filler, sand, paint.... The tack weld concept reduces weld burn...

Can we 'can' the political BS and get back to the issue of "hooks"....

A panhard bar might give front axle more side to side stability than the wishbone stabilizer.

IF you need to tow something from front end.... Go right to tractor chassis. As my SCUT didn't have anything on front to attach to, solution was simple....

ITs still there... Check you browser....

Quite possibly.... Have not really **looked** at it yet....

Hire professional arborist if tree is that important......

No welding required.... 2x2x1/4 angle iron, hacksaw, grinder, 'lectric drill....

Steering issues are probable alignment issues as Vigo327 states.... THE power beyond valve thing is probable a misunderstand in how valve operates Its my understanding that PB port with correct plug/valve should NOT cause valve to act as a closed center. I believe open or closed center is a...

Here is my take..... I have about 6 DeWalt 18 V tools and one drill has already died and gone to junk tool heaven... MY big 1/2 drill is showing signs it is going to be needing replaced soon.... But my 1/4 impact is good, my 6-1/2 circular saw is good and reciprocating saw is good... The...

This diagram seem to be the details you need.... .

I would try to find a manual first, then look under hood or "dash" for what may be a grouping of relays..... Cutting open a harness should be a last resort or just plain desperation... Did you check manual for tractor , mine has rudimentary wiring diagram included.... .

Sounds reasonable. but it is possible you have overfilled the reservoir, my 20T's manual say to keep fluid at least 2 inches below top of tank (not 2 inches below top of filler neck) ....

Ten pages going for 20 ...OH the drama.....

Hard to believe..... 5 amp for 4 plugs?.... ITs probably the control circuit to operate a relay someplace else.... I would expect at least 10 amp per plug, 4 in parallel would be 40 amp...

Obviously the comments about not clearing fire/fuel are a little on the naïve side..... Try living in California the new coastal desert.... We have fires of 300,000 acre's or more and some fires take out whole towns (Paradise Ca.) and most places within fire zone that have survived have had...

Horn too... The two dumb asses supposedly helping you are to busy BS'ing to pay attention to tractor....

That is usually when one gets hurt....

Add simple cover plate over existing hole and drill it for new size of newly acquired switch...

Read instruction manual the come with tractor ....Twice...... Best thing I did was add chain hooks to bucker and ballast weight for any heavy FEL lifting.... Wheel spacers add side stability if you are on hilly ground, there is no place where land is dead flat.....

My solution was to have professional come in and drop the tree..... Just because you can do it does not mean you should do it....

Probably going to have to drop any dead snags and chop up anything on ground to a size the will fit in FEL, tractor with FEL is good for moving things, just not what a bulldozer will do for you.... IF it requires bulldozer work hire it out... Probably a one time expense.... IN last few years...

Shop manual would have break down diagram... It appears if 1235 is similar to 17xx series after removing drive shaft to front axle that you can unbolt pinion shaft carrier (#11) in diagram and pinion shaft may come right out...

But a 300 ft. extension cord is not practical (voltage drop) where I do my splitting and then the cost of buying and maintenance on a generator to run a electric splitter............

I avoided having my tractor tied up with splitter when I need to move up to 36 inch rounds into splitter (in vertical orientating) .... Bought a abused 22 ton splitter for $200 and it need carburetor for B&S engine and found out I could buy an new HF Predator (6.5 HP) engine for less ($139)...

This is what I did, works well if no back hoe..... Finish has held up over a couple of years now.... Keep in mind ammo cans were made for military and probably has more rugged finish than your tractor....

After abusing chain with dirt contact and using Dremel and rotary stone and hand files with poor success, I finally resorted to HF grinder..... BUT found instead of trying to adjust all the gizmos other then angle and depth of grind I let wheel drop and push "head" sideways to lightly contact...

If you are still using 2014 battery that came with tractor, that is most likely your problem.... IF you put a jump box on battery/tractor before first start and it fires right off, its a good indication you good battery is not so good...

And that folks is why a stand alone generation system designed to spec is much more simpler to operate....

Your weird screws are probably what is know as "sex bolts"....

The concept you didn't grasp was I use a old tire chain to cradle rock or other large objects in bucket in stead of a single chain around item that may slip off.....

And you misinterpreted my post about using tire chain as a cradle.

MY low end HF saw states fill gearbox with 140 weight oil till it reached lower lip of gear box with saw frame in down position...

I use a old set it passenger car tire chains to act as a "chain cradle" coupled with regular chains to hold really odd shaped objects .... EDITED FOR CLARITY: I use the set of old tire chains to cradle/basket large awkward objects in stead of a single chain around around object as shown in...

I have had Oxygen fresh off the LWS dock at 2100 PSI and Acetylene at 200 PSI...

Something that is useful that some scoff at is back to back hooks...

There was a thread of a hydraulic angle adjustment for back blade a few weeks ago.... A "search" may locate it...

Actually.... You could use the ovals... There are on sides of my FEL bucket, took a while to figure out what they were for........

Fixed it (maybe)....

Did you mean these....

With all the hype and hysteria about things going electric, no matter what side are you are on, has the world even though of or envisioned the environmental waste for depleted battery systems in the future, are we going to have toxic cess pools from dead and dying batteries just like plastics...

Looks like winner to me....

I find this a really good reference for tip sizes and pressures combinations... It can be found online or at most welding supplies... And if availability of acetylene is a issue may be propane or propylene could be alternative....

Do I understand the video that you have to have matching adapter on each attachment to match unit on 3PH on tractor?... Seem to me if you have a lot of attachments it could get quite expensive... https://www.jiffyhitchsystems.com/

I'm thinking he needs to reduce his inventory of FX110s....

Kind of where I'm at, just curiosity to see if system pressures are actually what are stated in manual... Then there is the "restored" log splitter that sort of has 3 different tonnages for same model between stickers on unit and owners manuals, but so far the 20 ton unit has handled...

At least with hose you can move gauge amount to here you can look at it from various positions.... Might be a real convince of you are adjusting pressure and you can actually have gauge facing you when actuating a control... If you are constantly monitoring something it may be ok for a gauge...

Suck it up and do the work to set wheels at widest form factor.... You will also enjoy the extra stability it give tractor other than just top be able to install chains.... As for width adjustment checks out graphic in post #3...

One can almost buy one for same price as ordering all the parts and assembling it oneself...

One thing I have learned is some paint cans are same "button" as my cheap carb cleaner spray cans, simply transfer "paint" button to carb cleaner can and spritz the button to clean button, doing this just after finishing painting cleans nozzle well... Be aware not all buttons interchange...

Another good document on tractor draw bar pins and connecting implement to tractors... https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/ppp/ppp-94.pdf

Just a FIY....I have several outlets in house built in about 91 that the upper part of receptacle makes really poor or something no contact with plug but lower half or receptacle works fine.... Also IF you have Aluminum wire, the wire tends to heat and cool and expand and contract and...

Awhile back VOLVO announced a small all electric excavator on facebook.... https://www.volvoce.com/global/en/this-is-volvo-ce/what-we-believe-in/innovation/prototype-electric-excavator/ https://www.volvoce.com/united-states/en-us/products/electric-machines/ecr25-electric/

Do they supply a tow behind diesel generator for battery charging?

Now there are relays..... This was very popular in early telco crossbar switches . Until most everything went solid state.... Spent many a hour with close association with these. In comparison the average relay found in car/truck/tractor applications are very simple....

To test the flasher you need a power source (battery) and a simple lamp that will draw enough current to cause flasher to operate.... Sketch below is basics of old style (not solid state) thermal flasher is constructed........

Never heard of a 3 pin relay .... Only 3 terminal device I can think of is a turn signal flasher (possible referred to as a "relay") .... All relays I have ever been associates were (minimum) 4 pin, two pins for coil to operate relay, 2 pins for contacts in relay.... The there 5 pin relays...

The 113 in model number indicates welder was manufactured for Craftsman by the Emerson Electric company.... Might be place to start... https://weldingweb.com/vbb/threads/62524-craftsman-113-202460 https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/bxcnb7wcyy-000247/craftsman-11320246-welder-parts...

One thing nobody has mentioned is CUTS/SCUTS are small and adding fluids to tires are not going to make a lot of difference due to small tire size... There for rear ballast...

Might consider a more substantial "temporary" shelter ""IF"" ROPS/Roof will fit under door frame... https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/category_tarps-canopies-shelters+instant-garages-shelters-sheds

I mounted my grill/guard on my brush forks since that is about the only time I need a guard...

THE hoses from surplus center worked well for my splitter rebuild..... Suggest you sleeve hoses to protect from blow out AND weather checking from UV exposure.... https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Hose-and-Hose-Assemblies/Hose-Sleeve/ Be sure to order extra, bends take up...

Two picture are for broken pump motor... Motor body with armature and magnets... End plate with brushes...

The HH 140 is a 120v machine and will handle .030 solid wire and C25 quite well... I use .030 almost exclusively with mine...

Clean all surfaces to bright shiny metal... Grinder is to clean surfaces before weld not after weld.... Setup welder for basic setting by door panel chart.... Run a few practice beads to be sure of settings ( you may need to tweak them a bit as the are just ballpark numbers) and you hand is...

Would not say he is the "inventor", when looking at Google Images site for snow skid shoes for my FEL blade, it seems there are quite a few companies already producing "wings"...

Just replying to CoveredWagon2 for clarity of why my set of forks were less than his.... https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/clamp-on-pallet-forks.445180/page-5#post-6164761

That's good... But I have small tractor (SCUT) and not a lot of heavy brush work and no use for pallet or realty heavy work...

Tube is 1-1/2 X 1-1/2 X .140.... Small tractor small forks..... May have been a little shy on material size, maybe 2 x 2 x .145 or .188 would have been better....

My Smittybilt (XRC) purchased about 6-7 years ago is made in China....

MY 10,000 pound winch will definitely slide my 4500 pound Jeep even what all four wheels locked (on dirt) .... Sometimes I even need wheel chocks....

Wheel spacer to get rear wheels wider also help immensely to stabilize tractor....

Loader specs state 870 Pound lift capability at pivot points, and 580 pound at 20 inches in front of pivot point.... I'm sure tractor frame and loader dimension are within safe operating specs as to not damage tractor.... Frame rails are folded steel and I'm sure it will bend long before it...

NOT PHOTOSHOPPED... JD has a low front bumper designed to keep from bumping into trees and rocks and cracking plastic hood.... Discovered bumper wedges under lip of FEL when it died on most remote back corner of property (naturally most inconvenient place) and I had to move/drag it down to shop...

Not really I have a dedicated location with wood "pallet" my ballast box sits on when not on tractor..... IF you tip over a 500-600 ballast box once, you will understand about dedicated parking spot....

For sale at Harbor Freight, made in China, and by the pictures, its same winch many retailers sell under their own branding.... My XRC 10,000 pound looks suspiciously the same as HF winch ... Probably all come from same factory in China under one design....

Argument for ballast weight.... Dead Deere weighs in at 520 pounds ... 1715 weighs in at about 1400 pounds and has 580 pound FEL lift capacity....

Have a part number(s) match.... Could this be your pump... https://www.radwell.com/en-US/Buy/HALDEX/HALDEX/GC6016A-18RB01/ https://www.locatepressuresystems.net/haldex/gc6016a-18rb01

Believe winch should have overload circuit breakers so if strain is more than winch is capable of it should cut electrical supply.... Never tested concept to be sure with my JEEP/winch combination, I am just very attentive to winching operations... As for the wench, after the divorce things...

Don't have box blade..... Had enough steel to build the ballast box and the 8 or so bags quickcteet was not that expensive....

Only plus for going through ignition switch is when tractor is "off' all powering drawing accessories are also off... Just draw power from ignition switch to power relay control circuit (with or without manual switch) ... Ever leave lights on in your car and come back to dead battery?

Did something similar....

Keep in mind that with two forks, that more brush will fall through the space between and out side of forks, that is why I made a wide set of forks mine is at least 5 tines and width of bucket, probably would have been better with more tines...... You have to know your brush to know what may...

I would check neutral safety switch and switch on brake system..... Would seem a bit or wear or maladjustment is making it difficult to start.... Good news is seat safety switch works....

My John S Barns log splitter pump seem to be same genealogy as "oldnslo" suggests....

This is what I made for brush moving/hauling....Works well for small logs too....

Have been able to extend the deep broken stud with a MIG welder, but requires a bit of finesse as it is not quite as controllable as TIG....

I hang it where ever I can since I don't have shop... Most of the time its by chain over tree limb...

Very good...

Might try dousing them with something like PB Blaster and then pair of channel locks and try to rotate sleeve (collar) to break any rust bond loose... If you can get the sleeve (collar) to turn its possible to work them till it will pull or push to release....

May I ask how/where you jumpered circuit?

Suggest you check you use of "T87" in your text.... Don't you really mean "T86"...

Actually best way to eliminate possible problem with relay is to remove it from tractor and bench test it.... Not energized you should see continuity between 30 and 87a, with relay energized (12 volt & ground on coil) you should see continuity from 30 to 87....

Umm... exactly where a Where are you measuring the .58 volts..... On a typical relay there should be 12 volts on one side of coil (85?) and to operate relay other side of coil needs a ground (86?)... If the operate path from ECU is at .58 volts it would appear to be providing a ground to...

I'm with "dodge man" on this one....

Funny thing about all these suggestion and posts, there is absolutely no diagnostic results that ECU is failed..... It could be many things besides bad ECU, bad relay, bad GP indicator, loose wire, blown fuse.... Until the is a full diagnosis of circuit from ECU output to GP nothing will be...

The funny thing here is there is a relay between the battery and the GP's... The ECU probably does not have a clue if the GP's are even there or not ..... Was it ever tested to see signal came from ECU to energies the relay..... So much speculation, no facts from diagnostic results. This is...

I use "cheap" carburetor cleaner on some of my gas engines (very stubborn B&S twin in mower) its less volatile than ether based fluids there for less explosive in firing, but does well... Not sure how it would respond in diesels as my tractor does have functioning GP's....

Why is this so complicated.... Simply ground control terminal of GP relay with push button and leave ECU intact... Maybe add isolation diode so manual ground does not feed back into ECU... My SCUT say to hold GP control "ON" for about 10 seconds and then start no automation or timers or ECU...

IF you have to go DIY, parts are available... https://regulatortorchrepair.com/product-category/repair-parts/

Sounds like limited hydraulic plumbing, possibly needs redesigning....

Collar on female will move either way to release male..... You just got to make them move....