Search results

Use WIX Number....

It's not lack of respect, but tractor/ground work which most of us do is a whole lot different than aerial/tree work... Anybody watching a arborist 50-80 feet off the ground on one 1/2 inch rope has to give a lot of respect for the rope....

Personally I use chain for about 90 percent of my tree work because Its already down..... As for rope, I use not to expensive hardware story ropes and to me it expendable.... As for knots, try to learn "nonbinding" knots exclusively.... My Favorite is a bowline...

After all these responses I think my solution I put up in #2 is still the best for me.... Mainly because it's what I have and can't see where anything else might work better....

Appears to be check chains to limit how far down cutter is allowed to drop.... I have check chains on my ballast box so I don't have to continually adjust the ballast up as it tends to drop on it own over time.....

Ummm.... https://manoa.hawaii.edu/exploringourfluidearth/physical/density-effects/density-temperature-and-salinity/weird-science-macroscopic-changes-liquid-water-volume#:~:text=When%20water%20is%20heated%2C%20it,volume%2C%20it%20becomes%20more%20dense.

Simple to add break controller if you are concerned, and if tractor has no brake lights or 7 pin connector, just add universal brake light switch to brake linkages and appropriate wiring...

Aaaah.. It's a expansion tank.... As water heats up it expands and flows into expansion tank, after engine cools a vacuum in radiator/engine block should draw water from expansion tank back into block/radiator.... If system is functioning properly you should never have to remove radiator...

My GC 1715 has a over flow tube going from cap of catch reservoir down to below tractor chassis.... Also I would check the screen in front of radiator to see if plugged with grass and debris....

If I have grab hook on end of chain I can wrap around log and "hook", why do I need a "choker"....

Don't have winch or anything on rear of tractor with notches/slots....

Depends on what you want to carry on "Pallet/Ballast"... Personally I have a steel box full of concrete (24x24x12) with four 2 inch PVC pipes inserted vertically to hold shovels/rakes/hoes and any long handled tools.... Personally I don't find big huge carry box/pallet useful, but again my...

Can someone explain to me how you use this style choker, I understand about the chain hook wrapping around log but fail to see how you attach choker to tractor to pull....

I typically use a 20 ft and a 35 ft chain with grab hooks for my skidding, and I find this really short chain is a real helper on several instances when I need to grip logs differently or instantly adjust length of chain or something in lashup like make loop in middle of chain to loop over QH...

Generally "system" power is taken off directly at battery terminal (second wire to/at main cable to starter) or a double up connection on terminal on starter solenoid.... Anyway whatever point the power is tapped off of it usually goes to a "master" fuse or fusible link on newer tractors that...

On could put a section of pipe or steel bar across lower hooks on 3PH to keep log away for rear of tractor IF that is a worry........

Ditch the generator and regulator and replace it with "generic" one wire alternator.... MAybe a modification of mounting bracket and a little fiddling with wiring and you should be good to go.... https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/why-convert-to-a-one-wire-alternator/28748

In my mind this thread should have been more like "How Much Ca My Tractor Stop"....

Just to increase knowledge level.... https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=seal+replacement+in+hydraulic+cylinder Have you tried looking here for replacement cylinder? https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Cylinders/Double-Acting-Hydraulic-Cylinders/

I tend to agree, when chasing parts it seems most splitter part numbers come back to MDT..... THE funny thing is retail product "X" states part no longer available, but product "Y" with exact same part number and exact same product description say part is available.... On top of that, all the...

Agree 100%...

I bought a old DUERR splitter (made by MDT in the late 90's) that had blown Briggs & Stratton motor, replaced motor with cheap Harbor Freight Predator because it was cheaper to buy new motor than try to get parts for the B&S, long story quite short (here).... Almost any wheeled splitter can...

I would not select tractor by color again.... I would read about maintenance/repair issues and how good local dealer is about "service" and then make my decision if I had to do it again...

Not sure if you have a problem or not, my 3PH will allow load to settle to down position over 6-8 hours, did it since new.... Since all I usually have on 3PH is my ballast weight I put stay/check chains on it to keep ballast at constant height and takes strain off of the hydraulics.... BUT you...

Best thing may be to put down a slab and build shed on top of slab.... Have three wood floor sheds on my place and would not trust them with my 1400 Lb. SCUT (actually more like 2000lb with ballast attached)........

Totally clueless are we..... You don't get 24 volts you get more like dead short....

I thought third function was used in place of hydraulic (diversion) for bucket curl/tilt, so (in most cases) it could operate a grapple....

Go to auto parts and get "rubber" breather hose in correct ID to fit pipe and fitting on valve cover....

Ths is how my GC 7115 reads.... i

Need better description of "loader will not work" do you mean raise and lower of bucket or curl and dump of bucket, Or all the above?

Check fuses, there may be a master fuse that is blown, owners manual should show wiring diagram and location and value of fuses.... Probably looking for a 40 to 60 amp "main" fuse.... According to this PDF file there is a slow blow fuse coming off the battery/starter that supplies power to...

My GC 1715 with probably same ISEKI engine, manual says 1250-1300 RPM when warm....

As others have said, get ID of seal location in gear box housing and OD of the shaft also depth of seal housing........ Inexpensive digital calipers should be accurate enough.... Take numbers to good bearing supply house.... OR spend some time online (MCMASTER?)...

Closest Tractor Supply to me is the pits, have to drive 40+ miles to go to good tractor supply store, unfortunately for TS the local welding supply is only 37 miles from me....

A little late to the show but others may find this document useful...

My wife laughs me for hosing down tractor when dirt/dust gets pretty thick.... Clean tractor makes it easier to spot potential problems and fix before tractor becomes sidelined what you really need it..... Agree with previous post about looking at contractors equipment as to how its...

The popular concept of using fixed size QH is to mod older "non standard" implements (one time) to fit "standard" QH size...

What about the part of statement "to the farm" sort of indicate to me "over the road"...

Don't overthink this... The tractor will pull/move anything it can till it won't... Tractor is made for pulling, that is why it has different gearing so in can pull resistive loads as disks and plows and scrapers.... Trailer is not going to be resistive load once it starts to move... My main...

I have slotted "hooks" on my loader also, BUT I try to get a way for using them as not to bend or distort loader..... Always try to pull from chassis locations....

Did you look here.... https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Adapters-Fittings/BSPP/ If loader/hydraulics came out of SE Asia area manufacture its probably BSPP....

I have done 50-60 pulls of some very stubborn tree trunks in very difficult situations and the 1/4 chain is successful ( but my tractor is probably 1/2 the size of yours) .... If log/tree trunk is not going to move tractor just digs in and tries to bury itself..... JUst be sure you are pulling...

These are pretty effective, but you have to be persistent... It's a Macabee....

Actually do voltage test with volt meter in place and trying to start..... IF voltage of battery drops below about 10 volts during attempt to spin up engine its probable toast, no matter what it tests at with no load....

Besure slip hook has lock lever that keeps chain from falling out of hook though....

Now its all about time.....

Chain..... It's easier to work with and adjust length and connect and what not..... And its safer too... IF you have high tension on cable and it breaks loose it can come at you like a knife blade.... https://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-x-35-ft-chain-coil-47698.html...

.177 caliber pellet rifle works for me, but its only good in really early morning before gophers plug the hole for the day....

Could also chain one of the logs to the 3PH...

Well My tractor is a SCUT.... And it has about a 840 (breakout) or roughly 600 pound lift capability at the bucket...... JD riding mower is 520lbs according to owners manual and counter weight (ballast) on rear of tractor is 500-600lbs.... And you have to realize you have little or no...

I drag a 4-5 foot long section of railroad track....If not that a section of chain link fencing that is folded over and some big heavy rocks inside .. essentially it is anything that resembles a harrow....

But does it start and run without spray bombing it....

They make tools for releasing pressure in hoses/connectors..... Using C02 to cool connector is a probably waste of time because you need to cool all the lines associated with connector to get fluid to contract...

Fix indicator and move on... I made one for my tractor because it did not come with one...

Whatever you do, DO NOT use anything that clamps on, only use ball attachment that are securely bolted, pinned or welded.....

Go with highest pressure/CFM..... Get one that will only run at 50% duty cycle when you have your biggest air user attached and going....

IF trailer is wide enough for tractor to easily fit, only question may be are ramps long enough for easy angle of attack... Have seen trailers with 8 ft long ramps but they must weigh a ton.... Or there is attached ramps that fold and are hinged in middle .... Option are varied.... Seriously...

Boat (trailer) owners are the worst for wheel bearing and tire maintenance... Usually that is all I see along side of road, is a boat, a lady sitting in boat and a wheel/tire missing off trailer and no tow vehicle in sight...

A 4k tractor and a 3.3k unladen weight (tare) on trailer put whole rig at about GVW 7.3k... you are Nowhere near max GVW of trailer and trucks towing specs.....What was your question?...

Try this... https://www.weingartz.com/assembly-diagram/john-deere-parts-lookup/model-lx188-lawn-tractor-with-48-in-mower-deck-pc2317-carburetor-lx188-fuel-air/4275-35648-489953

Had best luck here.... And you can't beat their $9.95 shipping in most places... https://www.weingartz.com/

On my 1715 (same setup as 1705) there is a second set of holes about 1-1/4 inches back from where it is mounted now, BUT it may depend on how your seat was initially mounted whether you can move it back (holes exposed) ....... And there is some sort of limiting "stops" inside rails...

Think its spelled winch....

You are free to leave anytime....

This is what I did for moving brush and moving logs (rounds) to splitter....

ahem...

Ok kiddies.... 39, plus 39!

Does not have to be in FW to have front diff failure..... Failure is a failure....

Have to disagree with Lesson #6..... No cross straps...

I would check visible wiring between fuse and solenoid, if nothing obvious, might unplug wiring from solenoid, it would pretty much eliminate problem with wiring when you replace fuse and it does not blow with solenoid disconnected ...

I usually buy what ever is on sale, but have learned to sharpen the bits once dulled... Have only bought real expensive bits a few times when exact size and real precision is required.. Bits used in drill press under better control (speed/pressure) will last longer than bits used in corded or...

Make a free standing chute that is wide at the top (bucket width) and narrow at the base (cart width) to exit into cart... Something you can move around with loader.... Kinda sorta like this ...

Not "U" bolts.... 5/8 bar stock heated and bent around a section of pipe to create the "U" shape.... I actually use 4 ratchet straps (2,500lb working load - 10,000 burst) left over from race car days and tie down to chassis points....

Another thought is tie down points...... I have a Carson 7000 GVW tandem axle trailer when it came there was NO REAL TIE DOWN POINTS..... Only stake pockets... I had 5/8 inch diameter steel "U" shaped loop welded to each corner of trailer because it was a real pain to put the hooks on my stripe...

Might get a better response in the MF forum... THis diagram from the MF GC2300 parts book pretty much shows there is 2 snap rings deep inside the differential.... Indication to me that you are going to have to split the case (rightside) to get access to left side axle.... See...

You could always put one on a timer.... My understanding is it not a problem charging, its a problem when charged and left on charger for extended period of time once charge cycle is complete...

Grade 2 "shear bolts" $2.99 each, generic grade 2 bolt $0.79 each....

Your grade 2 bolt with initials were probably price codes for cashier... Tractor Supply has grade 2 and grade 5 and and maybe grade 8 by the pound..... Probably all Chinese counterfeits though... Use a lot of grade 2 around property for non critical things, have not has any failures yet...

How is hydraulic pump driven?.. Mechanical lash up or belt driven?.... I guess what I am asking is how does hydraulic pump get its power...

You have to consider that a "jump" battery (or any battery) will try to produce all the amperage it can when there is a demand, its a natural chemicals reaction of battery to try and maintain its "voltage".......... Most early jump packs have a 12 volt 12 amp hour battery.... I was surprised...

Something to consider is an automatic drain system so you don't have to remember the chore of doing it..... Several difference concepts out there some research may be required to find one that fits you needs... Associate has one the drains tank every time compresor shuts down (but does not...

Should work if thread dimensions are correct.... Be sure its steel and not brass though... https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Adapters-Fittings/NPT-to-NPT/NPT-Female-to-NPT-Male---Straight/

Pictures?

Bit of a clue here... https://www.shoproudebushequipment.com/products/3283679m91-cap-fuel?variant=24875821448

And there is this... https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/hv5902-installation-guide-on-my-ford-4100.449167/

But what is battery voltage during cranking process, if battery voltage drops to below 9-10 volt during cranking, battery has no capacity for cranking and should be replaced.... Both my JD lawn tractors start with the cheapest "U1" group battery (because locally only cheap 6 month warrantee...

Go to GOOGLE IMAGES and put in "tractor telescoping boom" in search string.. https://www.google.com/imghp?hl=en&tab=ri&ogbl

And there is this.... JIC 37° and SAE 45° Flare has same thread size and thread count... See Page 4 & 5

Watched a very good arborist that has all the latest goodies.... Has the little Stihl 12inch(?) one hand electric the cost in neighborhood of $800 and it stalled out 2-3 time in 5 inch limb.... Have really old Homelite 12 inch gas saw that cut circles around the Stihl..... Not going 'lectric...

Still digesting this but I really believe this is on track to what the problem is....

By "pintle hitch receiver" do you mean one of these? I would go with bolt on approach as it put receiver at lower height, and does not protrude with end in back of box to fill with dirt.... As for removing bolt on receiver when pushing brush....WHY?.... It not going to be damaged by the...

IF there is not a kit available, check locally to see if there is a auto/truck electrical repair shop.... Some places have shops that specialize in starter/generator/alternator repairs....

Hoho223......Your operation is not the same as the MF GC series... It does not have a "joystick" but it has a control lever, pull up lever from "neutral" it raises 3PH hydraulically, press down from "neutral" the valve opens to bleed off hydraulic pressure and 3PH drops... Sounds like to me...

Maybe..... https://www.swtc.edu/Ag_Power/hydraulics/symbols/symbols.htm

Can you back off a few feet and take pictures showing more of whole assembly, you pics are so closeup its hard to see what the overall situation is...

So does smaller Massey Ferguson... And probably any tractor manufactured off shore (Thailand)...

Then there is this...

Also dont get into a fixed pattern, use a random pattern the moves dirt is all directions...... I just drag with a make shift harrow made from chain link fence material folder over a "T" post and filled with a few large rocks, OR drag the 5 length of RR rail that acts like a land plane......

Another gimmick somebody is trying to push because the are invested in it and need to make a return on their money...

3PG does nor have any down hydraulic action, its pure gravity, only thing lever does is release hydraulic fluid from ram...if you want speed back off rate control knob or add weight... I actually have to use stay chains when my ballast weight is on, if I don't use chains the "natural" leakage...

Think it depends on size of tractor.... Mine weighs in at about 1500lbs (with out 600lb ballast) and I use ratchet straps left over from race car days, each strap is rated at 2500lbs working and 10,000 burst.... Think it keep tractor on trailer quite well... And I'm in Kalifornia where law...

On slopes I always go up the slope or down the slope never across the face of the slope....

Kind of sorta of depends on size of tractor..... For your BX 2350 I would guess between 400-500 lbs.. My SCUT, MF GC1715 has a box weighing in at about 600 lbs.... Its great for traction and really counters the weight in FEL well, but may be a bit heavy.... Did you check your owners manual...

Harbor Freight 6.5 HP motor is half the price....

Well got it back from dealers shop..... $37.99 in parts and $1100 in labor..... They had to remove ROPS, seat and back fender and floor board assembly's to just get to tube to replace it.... One expensive poke of a stick...

If its a "simple" harness, roll your own.... https://delcity.net https://waytekwire.com

IF this was originally equipped with BH and you disconnected (removed ) it, you probably don't have a through circuit for hydraulics to TPH, you will need a loop hose to get through flow through the "power beyond" circuit for BH as it is ahead of THP in hydraulic circuit.... In these SCUTS the...

Quick and dirty test of hydraulics/pump would be to put a gauge into one of the quick connects for the FEL and dead head the control valve long enough to get gauge reading.... Think pressure should be about 1900PSI... https://www.boltonhooks.com/hydraulic-tools/ Scroll down to " Hydraulic...

Put in water slide...

IF you know the size >>> 1/2-20 X 1-1/2 Lug Bolts... They are everywhere.... Or pull one out and take it to any GOOD auto parts.... Do stare and compare..

IF my welds looked that good, I would be one happy camper....

IS 9 gallons a minute going to be enough volume to effectively run mower... IF not you are going to need PTO pump/system... https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/005/8/5/5853-john-deere-4105.html

May want to take a squint at this...

I went with 3 inch spacer on the REAR of my SCUT.... Made of world of difference.... Still on hillside operation its called go really slow and be aware of tractor balance all the time.... Wheel tractors are not good on sidehills ...EVER.... Yes the BROTEK are the best.... https://bro-tek.com/

Think diagonal is post to post and not outside corner to outside corner...

I have two riding mowers, and one requires blade bolt to be torqued to 110ft-lbs... I always use a 4x4 block and large "C" clamp to wood block in place to keep the blades from spinning (yes all three blades/spindles) and it has never failed me, if your wood block technique is failing you, you...

Never have had my gas supplier check the neck ring.... Supposedly a blank neck ring is "customer" owned, but have only seen one (the one I have now) , I just lay my money on counter and they get empty out of PU and replace it with full.... I guess each retail purveyor of compressed gas may have...

Tractor Supply is not best solution, I found dealing with local welding supplier (Linde) was better option... https://www.lindedirect.com/

Only open throttle setting enough to accomplish job at hand.... I have old DUERR splitter made by MDT about 1990, and its rated at 22 Tons, and its not about horsepower its about the rating of the pump (GPM/RPM) and pressure set by relief valve in control valve.... I run mine full out and have...

But Oregon is only one step behind Cali...

If your tractor has "power beyond" capabilities (back hoe capable) you have everything you need to power a splitter ram except maybe hoses, no need for PTO pumps and RPM boosters and such... Just buy a 6.5 hp motor from harbor freight and go happily on your way.... I bought used 22 ton...

First thing I would try to determine is brand and model of cylinder.... Look to see if the is a nomenclature plate on cylinder...

There is also a MF forum... https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/massey-ferguson-owning-operating/

Would not a third function kit be answer to control grapple...

Wasted effort in my world....

Looks like a "hot start" relay wiring we use on VW aircooled starters...

Usually there is 12 volt on D+ lead from ign. sw. to initialize alternator to start charge sequence.... Have you checked that.... How about battery/ground cables are they corroded?...

If it is actually a MF GC1710?..... If so it should have rear "power beyond" hydraulics in place for backhoe operation... And can be used for other hydraulics with BH removed.... One does not "TEE" in hydraulics.... Almost all hydraulics are run in series and only device in use takes advantage...

There is somethin not being told about the whole incident....I find it really hard to believe she was just asleep.... Maybe drugged out unconscious...

You sound like the guy who takes a 16ft 6in load under a 15ft 6in overpass.... Also this last winters storm which dropped at least 24 inches of snow, when we usually get 3-4 inches, storm dropped about 30% of my trees and created 40-50 widow makers in others, has cost me at least $18,000 in...

But I can put my 52 inch wide tractor between two trees 54 inches apart, can bigger tractors do that?

Same here... Never though in the 5 years I have had tractor it would be put to the test than this last winters snow storm did to property....And anything bigger would spend more time in shed because its to big for access to about 50% of property... Besides this is a first in about 350 hours of...

Might help some in future... https://www.batteryequivalents.com/bci-battery-group-size-chart.html

Maybe....

The beauty of helmet light concept is you are always pointing light on to your weld from behind the sensors in helmet there for helmet is less likely to respond to light changes and you also have light source pointed directed at your weld when you are "out of position"... Also I use 2 diopter...

Your batteries are shot... Yes you need to replace them... Go with your dads recommendation the interweb is not always correct....Really is no need for deep cycle battery... The type (group number) and capacity (CCA) of existing batteries lasted 6 years, why would not the "new" batteries of...

Again, replace fuel line.... https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/b-s-hard-starting.463247/

Will have to look at tractor when it comes back from shop to see if "Sentinel" actually comes forward enough to protect hydraulic lines.... From the web site and pictures of plate for GC1715 it does not come forward enough to actually protect hydraulic lines where damage occurred on my...

Fortunate no break downs (yet) when stuck in the mud.... Jeep with winch to rescue though....

I had that issue also with my AD helmet and just turned sensitivity down to a point where random lights did not trigger hood....

In concept..... But you can always add "work" light as ambient light source..... The brighter your work area the less strain to see weld... Something like this may be just what you need for more ambient light ...

Actually stick has to go up about 14-16 inches to get hydraulic line, the 6.7 inches is not real, mine has more room under it than that...

Yep!.... Lookin for plate and bracket material while tractor is in shop, probably first project with it when it gets home....

Well its good for you but hydraulic line on the MF is also up between the rails (about 3 inches above rail bottom) but when you poke the end of a stick up between the rails.....

Did the unforgivable.... While working brush, I manage to poke a branch (I guess) up under my GC1715.... Unknown to me it bent a hydraulic line up against the drive shaft and drive shaft actually ground through the steel hydraulic line.... First clue was a trail of oil drops across the...

This is the most basic diagram to get engine to run.... Yes it is for a engine test stand for doing VW aircooled, but ignition is ignition.... It will get a 4 cylinder gas tractor to run.... Only issue here may be firing order of your tractor may be a little bit different from the VW...

I has similar "bubbles" while engine was running (B&S powered mower) .... Engine was also miserably hard to start.... Found bad fuel line between tank and filter... It had microscopic holes that would allow air into system but were not large enough to show as a fuel leak.... It was all about the...

A 220Volt ac welder does not use a neutral..... White wire will be neutral on 120Volt circuit..... White wire can be hot (L1 or L2) on 240 Volt AC circuit... It is all about application voltage... If you have NEMA 6-50 plug in shop and want to keep twist lock plug on welder, make simple...

On a 240 volt machine colors with black and white for 240V with green as safety (chassis) ground if it has a four wire cord the red (or remaining color) it is probably a "neutral" if something in welder (fans?) that use 120 Volts.... Instructions in manual seem pretty clear.... Sketch below...

If it were mine, I would immediately pull pan and look for plastic.... As others state, the plastics will probably clog oil pump pickup screen..... Once that is done, then trouble shoot any remaining problem....

Did you read maintenance section of owners manual?

From the 1700 series ( believe 2300 series is same) MF tractor shop manual...

May be able to find manual for engine here... https://kohlerpower.com/en/engines/service-manuals

Yes forum was better before all the ads, ..Unfortunately the click threw money from ads always entice admins to garbage up a superb site.... Its so sad because almost all the ads are for things or retailers I will never buy or buy from...

Fuel shutdown solenoid is energized for about 8 seconds (timed circuit) after key is moved to off position... No voltage from fuse through switch means no solenoid shut down sequence energised.......

Try putting a little dielectric grease on fuse blades before inserting, it will keep moisture and oxygen out of connection and probably prevent most corrosion for a long time (if not forever) ....

Get shop manually and trace wiring diagram from battery all through all safety switches and relays to starter.... This has always been my favorite tool for troubleshooting electricals on non computer systems...

Think you are looking at a steel tube that supplies hydraulic pressure to one side of cylinder/piston .... Mainly it bring both connection "ports" to same location so you don't need longer hose to go the side of piston further from the valve...

Personally I would just use the low mount drawbar on tractor frame.... I am pulling some pretty big stuff and have concerns about the combination of 3PH, QH and BB ... I think pulling from ballast box is going to just bend/distort the box unless its full on concrete and you are probable going...

I am not objecting to anything.... Just referencing minimum requirement the welder manual states..... Which also makes reference to NEC sections...

Think so worked telecommunications for 38 years and everything from 26 gauge to 750,000 CM... And I can read the spec provided by welder manufacturer...

The legalese here is the circuit at the receptacle is labeled for "welder use only"....

The point is the spec. the manufacturer recommends in right there in the manual for the unit.... Also note the OP stated two different welders, and the manual for each welder has a different set of values... https://www.hobartwelders.com/support/manuals-and-parts

Directly from Hobart Handler 210MVP Manual...

I hear you but consider also that machine like the Hobart Handler 210MVP has plug options that are not exactly a "adapter"....

JUst use receptacle that matched power cord on welder, don't cut off plug of welder cord and graft on something different, this is no brainer because receptacles is not a problem.... And the NEMA 6-50 plug/receptacle combination has become industry standard (in most cases) .... Now all you have...

Seeing that it has been welded before and failed, it probably need to go into shop, old welds ground down, panels brought into alignment and rewelded and then a gusset plate or over lay of more metal to reinforce the repair.... Needs serious attention if implement has great value to you....

Anything that works.... Not particular at this point, need ideas, suggestions....

As title says.... Thinking of fabricating one to tow behind my scut, either 48 or 54 inch wide....

My "inch" impact socket set goes up to 1-1/8 inches.... Anything large I consider "special" and buy single socket accordingly.... My "metric" impact socket set goes up to 24mm .... As above anything larger is "special" purchase... The metric set I picked up was this one, seems pretty go for...

Also NATIONAL ELECTRIC CODE (NEC) has special section for welding circuits that differ from your electric stove, air compressor, electric drier, well pump circuits.... Hard to believe a inspector would ding a installation for over sized wire....

Don't think a .22 is going to do much to a hog.... It tool several rounds from a .357 to drop one on my property...

Two things... The 50 Amp plug shown in manual is industry standard for most 230 volt welders in this class no matter what the amperage draw is for welder.... And the amperage draw shown in chart is for midrange weld not for maximum..... If wires size dictates it can be capable of amperage draw...

Might want to look into different wood types for support beams also treated vs untreated...

My go to gas/consumable supplier is a "LINDE" dealer (previously Praxair) never have problem purchasing bottles or getting exchange refills, only negative is closes on saturday/sunday... BUT I'm retired so weekday trips are not a problem...

This was my DIY solution for a grab handle... A piece of 3/4 inch black pipe, a piece of angle iron, a couple of bolts....

I have something similar but smaller and I find that with brush it seems that at least half falls off between where I gather it and the burn pile, my thinking is I need a grapple but then again the hydraulics involved and complete rebuild of front end makes it not so much in my futire...

Got manual on how to do maintenance?

Really think the bottom line in all this is "follow the money" to the electrical industry...

Start at lamps the are not lit up and trace back to power source, a broken wire or corroded connection will do you in...

Does your tractor have a "BATTERY" or "ALT" (alternator) lamp?... IS it functional.... If you turn key to on position (not starting motor) does the battery/alternator lamp light?.... Many alternator system need the voltage supplied through lamp to initialize charge sequence of alternator...

The numbers on the connectors do actually mean something.... Go with them first.....

You smack the dash of a what?.... Check electrical connectors where wiring meet the dash assembly for starters...

Does your dash have a ALT lamp?.... IF it does, check it... It usually supplies 12 volts to alternator (through bulb) to initialize the alternator to start charging on start up....

On my GC 1715 its mechanical off the tachometer drive.... Engine running, hours registered..Engine off, no hours registered... On my JD mowers never payed much attention to hour meters...

I would bet the was a weld failure on back side of tube (horizontal) where we can not see..... This allowed all the strain of FEL on back side of vertical tube.... Also bet it was a robot weld with poor preparation because it appears there was no penetration....

Probably... https://hylomar.com/en/universal-blue/ I use Permatex Aviation Sealer (non hardening) almost exclusively on this type of joint... As with any sealer just wetting surface is usually enough....

Typical of a lot of gauge systems is for them to go full scale (pegged) if there is an open circuit between gauge mechanism and its sender.... You need to trace wiring from dash panel to sender to see if there is a disconnect or loose or dirty plug/socket.....

Reduce size of "bucket" so you don't overload system or ditch the pallet forks and slide bucket deeper into FEL so system has better leverages and figure different way to secure it.... This is my leaf bucket made for a old guard off some sort of (unknow) machine...

What seems to work well for me is to use something like unscented/non clumping cat litter to absorb most of oils/fluids, then scrub down with petroleum spirits (solvent) and wash immediately with Simple Green. and water....

Saw short blurb on another site the AGCO and Kubota has signed memorandum of understanding with Farm Bureau on right to repair issue.... https://www.thefencepost.com/news/farm-bureau-signs-right-to-repair-agreements-with-agco-kubota/

Yep you need wiring diagram .... Sounds like short circuit in wiring.... Do you even know if added electric fuel pump is even wired into fuse that is blowing?...

Maybe information in this file about threaded fittings....

I would just rewire the plug to use a common one readily available that would accommodate both tractor and radio/stereo, might be easier than trying to find a non existent plug...

Link to Video?

A wiring diagram would help.... Maybe get shop manual.... Maybe try to bypass "suspected" neutral safety switch (two wires out of transmission) and see if it solves problem...

Down shift and boost RPM's up....

I use 4x4 block and "C" clamp (clamped to mower deck) to block blade from spinning then you can use just about any method to "torque" the nuts.... Personally I have no problem accessing the "nuts" with torque wrench as tractor front is jacked up and I have easy access to nuts.... As for the...