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Generally the first valve body (relief valve) in system controls system pressure... If you try to use downstream pressure relief, it subjects any valve body (hydraulics) before relief valve to full pump pressures....

Yeppers, if I remove FEL tractor becomes yard art....

I tend to back up "blind", looking where FEL (load) is and not whr tracto is going when in woods and it seems a tree is alway moving into the path I want to take....

What are the rest of the numbers.....Enquiring minds want to know....

Look at valve body closely it may have a "P" designation on one port for Power in and a "PB" designation for Power Beyond for out port, and possible a "T" port for tank (design dependent) ...

Almost every hydraulic control is in series, from pump to power port (P) on first control valve, out of power beyond (PB) and in to "P" on next control valve and out at PB port into next "P" port and out "PB" to next "P" port and so on... Does not matter if you have 1 or 2 control valves or...

I have more of a problem with ballast running into things when backing up.....

I have JD L120 that has 450 plus hours still going strong.... have replaced blade spindles and have has to weld up a few problems with deck.... But still going... Going to have to keep it going because After Jan 1 2024 can not purchase a new one in California unless its 'lectric.......

Be sure tractor is in "NEUTRAL" and try jumping the starter solenoid (hot wire from battery plus to trigger terminal on starter solenoid), if that works and engine will crank, problem may be as described above, bad relay, or one of various safety switch's...

The wider you go the more stability the tractor will have......Also the wider you go may put more strain on axles and bearings.... I put 3 inch on my SCUT and it made a lot of difference in its stability... As for strain on axles and bearings.... We will see about the longevity as time goes on....

Keep in mind most electric winches are designed for intermittent "recovery" use and have large draw on battery and alternator, be sure battery and alternator on tractor are up to the electrical load winch will put on system....

But did you notice the dress,,,, My guess was India or Pakistan or general area....They see to get a lot of good work done with out a lot of technology/power tooling....

My question also....

Use any solvent that does not leave oily residue behind.... Petroleum Spirits (paint thinner), Acetone, Carb Cleaner (in spray can) and paper towels and Q-Tips and such.... Its not complicated....

Got to be at least 10 thread already on installing bucket/chain hooks..... I oped for home made...

The only type of fitting that uses a "sealant" is tapered thread fitting like NPT (and variations) ... All other fitting use either a flair or sealing washer or 'O" ring to seal... Straight thread fitting do not require or use sealants...

Permatrans is basically a 10-30w oil (with specific additives) .... IF MF recommends it, it can't be bad if front end is designed around that oil/fluid specification...

Explain "quickly".... Yes my GC 1715 leaks down... Never timed it..... But when working with just a ballast on 3PH (which is most of the time) , I use check/stay chains so I don't have to worry about it...

The actual cost of weld...$2.... The travel time, the depreciation on equipment, the time spent in school getting the certification....$298....

That is just it... Rumored..... When I search for the "kit" by part number, I always windup with reference to the JD power beyond kit....

Probably find any adapters/fittings you need here.... https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Adapters-Fittings/

Three way?..... I believe a typical hydraulic pump only has a suction side and pressure side....

All the information you need to know might be on the slide ring/body of the female couplers....Should be manufactures name and part number... From little bit I can see the couplers look like they may be "Pioneer"... https://promo.parker.com/promotionsite/pioneer/us/en/quick-couplings

Yes.... New fuel line seems to the cure for hard start and the bad fuel line had a leaky part that would allow air into fuel system,....

Some will say "yes" some will say "no".... A lot depends on the mods of the HF unit.... Personally I sold my Lincoln 180 amp "tombstone " and later replaced it with Hobart Handler 140 MIG and so far it has done all the things I require of it for up to 1/4 inch materials in single pass...

Put locked up wheels on dollies(?) then push, tow with truck....

Anybody thought of using a DRO (Digital Read Out).... Maybe something similar to this...

Yep... It's a "lift" pump to supply fuel to the injection pump....

Your hydraulic lines should be self bleeding once you reconnect them and cycle through their movements few times....

Keep in mind some applications have external diodes across relay socket, some applications have diode internally inside the relay case..... When replacing a relay do it by part number(style)...

If your tractor has a computer the diode is there to protect computer from a voltage spike as magnetic field collapse when relay is deenergizes....

Been doing burn piles since rains stopped.... Lost maybe 30-40 full trees (oaks) and as many as 200+ limbs on my still standing oaks.... It was so bad I actually had to have a crew of 4 with mini excavator in here for 5-6 days and still only have about 1/3 of what needs to be done to clear my...

One or more safety switches has stuck in non operated or operated position..... Suggest you first look at or work with safety switch on brakes to see if it is operating correctly.... It may be jammed or just plain failed....

Face it you generator is under nourished to get full welding power out of your welder.... Common theory on welding sites is the generator should have a power rating (wattage) about 50% more than what welder requires.... The convention wisdom is the the larger the generator better is will...

If you have 240V 30A outlet on generator (NEMA L14-30) yes this is probably adapter you need if your welder is 240V (NEMA 6-50P)....

What you really need to understand is outlet rating on generator.... MY 6500 watt generator has two 120v 20 amp outlets (NEMA 5-20R) and one 30 amp 120v (three prong twist lock NEMA L15-30R) outlet and one 120/240V 30 amp outlet (4 prong twist lock NEMA 14-30R) but in many cases the Neutral is...

Did not know 240 Vac was two phase..... Most power in US is single phase or three phase....

Oddly found 3-4 places that list mower, BUT all are call for price/quote....

In one of the other ballast threads it discusses using a section of corrugated plastic culvert and filling with concrete as picture above shows....

I like Simple Green because it cuts the oily mess and is biodegradable....

It was put there so you would have something to ask a question about....

Need ideas?.... Go to GOOGLE IMAGES and use "tractor ballast weight" as search string...

You can just bolt them to something like this... https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/field-tuff-3-point-trailer-hitch-ftf-013pth-1571208?cid=Shopping-Google-Product-1571208&gclid=CjwKCAjw8-OhBhB5EiwADyoY1aCZjCTp78gTZBhmeR7553e14h2No9eCsJmDhpS6eC55aHAfAkouTBoCh0wQAvD_BwE

JUst hope by "part number" its the correct pin....

If you are going anything bigger than 5 gallon cans, keep in mind the larger the can/tank, the logistics of moving it be come more complex..... IF really large you may have to consider truck mounted tank or onsite delivery....Personally my SCUT only holds about 7 gallons and I never let it get...

Ummm.... First place I looked.... https://store.montana-tractors.com/bt664-72600.html?viewfullsite=1

Bu this about welding not woodworking....

Personally I always check battery terminals first..... When getting a new battery or doing any needed maintained on some newly acquired vehicle I always clean battery post with a light abrasive and in side of clamp, then neutralize battery top and clamp with bicarbonate of soda and water, dry...

Yes it will work just fine....

Can we stick to the current welder model in this discussion... https://www.lincolnelectric.com/assets/servicenavigator-public/LINCOLN3/IM237.pdf Apparently Lincoln original equipped the AC/DC 225 with a NEMA 6-50P plug and expected it to be plugged into a NEMA 6-50R receptacle .... All the off...

As Tropical Jack says... Two hots and a ground 240V AC welder typically do not use a neutral...

This is how my joystick on my MF GC 1715 is defined.... Yours may be similar and yes there is a hard detent to overcome to go into float mode....

There should be a electrical solenoid valve controlling gas flow into oven burner (independent of top burners) ... Agree with thclimer on #17...

Change angle on switch engagement by bending bracket...

Don't really need full time monitoring unless you suspect problem in system.... If pressure relief is set properly the gauge is just a added place for damage or failure ... A gauge on hose with QC and a moment of deadheading the hydraulic line should be quite enough to tell if system is up to...

You would be foolish to try to use "micky mouse" hook up.... Use a real 5th wheel hitch or don't do anything.... Nephews back bumper of his Toyota has a imprint for tie down points on rear of a car carrier trailer because it got away from a stupid lashups of clamp on hitch and no way to secure...

Just buy one diode stack...

I would be ware of any welder the uses a battery jumper cable clamp for work lead..... It's a real cheap item and it makes me question the quality of rest of unit.... IT would be first thing I would change if I were to buy unit...

This is real basic and all you need to do unless you are searching for something or someone very specific...

Yes Roustabout, but tow truck winches are full duty recovery winches... More rugged and designed for continuous use, not like like intermittent use winches found on front of 4WD pickup trucks and Jeeps .... One has to know a bit about its design criteria of winch for its intended use...

Keep in mind, a "recovery" winch, either electric or hydraulic is intended for intermittent use when vehicles ability to navigate on its own is compromised(?) ... A logging winch is meant for continuous duty as for work like extraction wood and maybe other uses.... Yes there is a difference in...

Consider too a vehicle winch vs a forestry winch the vehicle winch will have maybe 100 ft of cable where forestry winch will have considerable more...

On my Massy Ferguson GC 1715 it mounted just after pump on the hydrostatic transmission... And yes it unlike Kubota (using shims) it's a threaded screw type adjusting assembly... Only way to tell what you really have is probably by having shop manual....Or at lease the proper page from shop...

Don't think so, you can not multiply pressure beyond what system is set up for.... IF system pressure relief/control valve is set at say 2500 psi you can never go beyond that.... But you could deadhead 2500 psi against both valves if you have valves operated improperly... And it is customary to...

Is all this to decide whether to use a big hammer or a small hammer.....

This You Tube video pretty much addresses all the things you need to know..... One thing it does not cover may be a "bucket level indicator", which may be subject of another message thread, operator in this video just used his experience/skill to "level" bucket...

Is it a vent or just a plug? Could it be a 1/2 of 3/4 inch NPT plug?... Pretty common for equipment manufacturers to use this style plug....

Empty tank while spraying and rinse with clear water..... El Cheapo pump on my sprayer lasted over 10 years, new El Cheapo pump 2 years so far....

Thought PAT's was a "Quick Attach" (QA) not a "Quick Hitch" (QH)...

Neighbor set his up on old railroad ties.... Gravel would not be a bad idea either..... Ventilation is a must to combat condensation....

This is a saw vice....

take a look at a WX 51360 or Napa 1360 for engine oil filter... WIX says it direct replacement for DENSO FC115010-5241.... https://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDetails.aspx?Part=36921 Height 2.577 OD 2.685 Thread 3/4-16 Media 21 micron gasket OD 2.460, ID 2.2, thickness 0.240 oil bypass...

I have 173cuft. .... Yes it's big, but it means less 70 mile round trips to gas supplier....For me it make it cheaper because of fuel and time... Make whatever tank holder on cart in such a way that it can accomodate any size cylinder...

I use a home grown harrow consisting of a 12 foot section of chain link fence material folded over on itself with a bar across the fold to give lateral support with some rocks captured in the folded area for weight... And other option I have is a 6 ft piece of rr track I can drag.... It all...

Typical of how to wire 2 axis NO joystick... IF you need to change directional control (up/down) to coordinate with Acton of a linear device reverse the polarity of DC voltage supply...

You don't have a ruler?

Web site... https://www.antoniocarraro.it/en

What drawers, see plastic tool box on my cart....

Can not see attachment...

Made my own...Whats not to like..... (hate little tiny casters they get stuck with the smallest things)...

And you are adding a "Tee" fitting for what purpose, is the QC in "Tee" going to Shaver, if so it seems to violate the "free flow" concept....

Find the wire the goes from fuse to starter (its entire path), trace wire, it probably has insulation rubbed raw and is shorting out to metal body or chassis... Simple to fix, difficult to find ....

If you are ordering .035 contact tips it would indicate to me you intend to use .035 wire, so need to order .035 drive roller.... Spec sheet says it only comes with .023-.030 drive roller....

On now I understand better... IT not the Shaver that is actually the problem its the tractor and its proprietary design of fill cap.... Guess I misses mention of fill cap on tractor portion of initial post...DUH! Why not get replacement fill cap and bore hole through it and add appropriate...

What is so odd about this is it seems all the hoses and fitting are "standard" (according to installation manual) except this one..... Why would a manufacturer use one nonstandard fitting amongst all the "standard" fittings.... Seems to me there is a problem diagnosing what the fitting is....

Seems to me the Pats system and a QH would have same problem of clearance under the pins.... Its a fault in design of attachment and no hitch system on tractor.... Seems to me manufacture expected for you to use the ball ends and pins at end of arms....

Maybe nobody has purchased one and used it.... Never have any faith in sellers endorsement, to easy for seller to fake positive reviews....

Good luck with 800 to 900 watts.... We are talking 8000 to 9000 watt generator for your needs....

If you are going to use cyclone on 230 volt receptacle (NEMA L14-30R) of generator, just get a NEMA 6-50R to L14-30P adapter. The NEMA L14-30R is the typical 30 amp 240 volt receptacle on generator ... A whole lot easier than screwing with rewiring plug...

Not quite understanding why the cylinder has to move.... In most cases I have seen the cylinder is stationary and only the "ram" moves....

Because you are buying a precision grinding tool and with proper care it will last a lifetime ... And sharpen many chains (that are consumables) over its lifetime..

Could you not use something like this male/female fitting to extend one set of connectors to get clearance... These are only a few bucks each... https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/

Would not hurt to be bigger, the extra generating capacity may not be a wasted investment and a bit better (bigger) engine may respond to surges better....

Maybe some relief here.... IF 3/4 NPT fitting screws in and seal It be pretty sure that is what it is (depending on country of manufacture)...Also check out page 13 -15 of manual... Maybe some relief there.... http://www.shavermfg.com/media/uploads/HD-10-operator-manual.pdf

According to welding site I frequent (Hobart) the wattage capabilities of the generator should be at least 50% more than demand of welder... The reason being is the rotating mass of rotor in generator is small enough that if welder bog down generator excessively (surge requirement when arc is...

But do you have long enough extension cord(s) or a generator to run it.....

IF fitting work on tool as designed, I'm sure why you think you need to change them....

May flasher circuits are design to initiate flasher operation by current flow (amperage draw) through flashier, through switch, through lamp.... I would reinspect the wiring and check any inline connectors for looseness or corrosion... INCLUDING the lamp socket and lamp ..... The circuit really...

Check section 55, Chapter 1 pages 49-50-51 of above posted PDF....

The impact "shock" of air tools usually wins....

For all day every day I agree with small gas engine pump.... Perobabl cost less on long run the 12 VDC pump plus all the batteries and charge and "stuff"...

As others say, use receiver hitch.... https://www.amazon.com/Versa-Mount-Vise-Grinder-Hitch-Mount/dp/B09YGLQTV5 If you can weld, you can probably make something from your scrap resources....

Why not just extend power from tractor to water trailer if they are always used together..... Even tractor idling, alternator should be able to keep tractor battery charged and still provide power to pump... Not sure why you think you need marine type..... If it were me I would go with a Odyssey...

Receiver hitches front and rear and...... https://www.morris4x4center.com/rough-country-2-receiver-winch-cradle-steel-rc-rs109.html

I would think winch as last resort... It is something you will have to have along whether you need it or not.... I have a Jeep with 950 CCA battery (ODYSSEY AGM) and a 100 amp alternator and with one good long pull I can drain battery down and even with alternator output, to where computer shuts...

https://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/filterlookup.aspx

IF you are referring to the "R2" resistor... I am not see what you described as a burn.... It appears to be a red-red-black so that makes it a 22 Ohm and it can be tested with ohm meter...

I don't have Alexa... I don't have Siri... What am I to do.....

So much snow right now, it muffles the sounds of generators.... IN California's Sierra Nevada foothills, we usually get 2-3 inches of snow any winter in my location, in last 4-5 days 12-18 inches and still coming down.... Our UTILITY company is unable to even keep up with its failures and we...

Only time I convert decimal to fraction or millimeter, is when I trying to find a "close enough" drill bit (fractional).... But there is this.... https://joshmadison.com/convert-for-windows/ Must be something similar for Android or IPhone...

Also keep in mind, cylinder diameter + pressure also has effect on lift capacity.... https://www.baumhydraulics.com/images/calculators/cyl_calc.htm

On my SCUT turning key off operates fuel cutoff solenoid, and then releases after 8-10 seconds....

Actually my $20, 10 year old plastic gas container does just fine, I just try not to be sloppy.... Besides there are enzymes in the soil that will actually eat the petroleum products over time, if you don't spill the gas then the enzymes starve....

With 90% still useable cutter (each tooth) still on "loop", don't think it a candidate to discard at about $40 a loop...

THe problem lies in what you CAN DO and tractor CAN'T DO.... Seems to me your lifting is just free travel of the mechanics beyond what the hydraulica can do.... Keep in mind the lower links are free pivoting (at least mine are) the actually lifting is with the hydraulic mechanisms attached to...

Both sides...

While hand filing chain today noticed there is 6-8 teeth that have more bluntness and did not come to sharp chisel point as all the other teeth did with a few strokes of file.... Do i really file the blunt teeth until they are sharp (lots of file strokes) or just keep applying a few strokes...

Unless a blade has tilt feature, you are not going to cut a flat trail across hillside, a blade without tilt will alway be parallel to rear tires on tractor.... ITs simple geometry.... Dealing with same issue while contemplating a blade for behind my tractor and need to cut flat trail across...

Just exactly how much lift do you expect.... How high you can get winch off ground may be in direct relationship to how high the 3PH attachment points are on the winch....

Anti-seize and dielectric grease....

Easier link to follow....

I just build a 2x2x1 (4 cu-ft) steel box from scrap and filled it with concrete, weights in at approximately 600 lbs.... Lot cheaper than buying weights... You might try doing a "search" for "ballast", lots of solutions posted over time....

What RPM are you running engine at..... On my SCUT it says to run it at about 2800RPM and use HST as speed control....

Not sure what you needs are, but if its boomless and only come with short hose (10-20 FT) replaces it with at least 50ft hose....

Agree with others, its a roll pin and needs to be punched out....

Vice grips....

I would go with what others have said, thread existing shaft and install thread coupler nut.... Available at most farm supplies, bigbox and hardware stores...

I run close to 600 pounds on my MF GC 1715 (SCUT)..... its just a steel box (2X2X1 FT) filled with concrete.... Wheels are so small ballasting them is pretty much useless for the weight..... And Yes at times my ballast box seems a little big, something I think it could be dropped in half and...

Look for brand and model number on connector (female side) and then go to manufacture's site and put in model number, it will tell you what thread type it is... You could possible just disconnect hose at quick connect on tractor, might not need any cap or plug... That will seal off output so...

Don't screw around with funky repairs, get proper new cable from online or FLAPS sources.... Funky repairs will only come back to haunt you at some time when its most inconvenient for you... THis is the best stuff ever.... Never had/have a corrosion issue when using this.... One tube will last...

Above ground makes things a whole lot simpler.... Out here in the west at least in my area we dont use "Cycle Stop Valves" nor pitless connection... Most common control is 40PSI cut in, 60PSI cut out pressure switch.... All controls and such are above casing/well head...

Personally in my portion of country it's pretty common to have all the hardware (CSV) and anything else outside of well casing.... IF CSV is in well casing then if there is a problem you are going to have to have well company come and do the service, if all is above ground then its easy...

Might look here.... Go to this pager and scroll down some.... And yes it's ok to disconnect one of you FEL hoses and place gauge in place of hose and dead head the gauge long enough to get reading..... How you adjust relief pressure should be in your tractors shop manual...

Just may have found the problem.....Removed and replaced fuel line between tank and fuel filter.... Put a little air pressure to it once I had it out and yes it leaks...

Not a really good procedure/practice to run oil contaminated with fuel.... You don't know if it is still thick enough to protect bearings....

Like this?..

Looking at pictures it looks like the R14 is a mixed/cross between a R1 and a R4 .... Wonder what manufacturers say about inflation... My MF GC 1715 with R4 says 22 PSI in front, and 20PSI on rears...... Why not try what manual says and if need be experiment from there....

Check to see if there is a optical tachometer app for a cell phone .....

Taking a class would be best approach for understanding the various welding processes and a bit of metallurgy, or just jump in and learn by trial and error and have grinder handy to clean up the Boo-Boo's so you start over with the weld.... I am pretty much self taught, gravitated to MIG from...

I had similar thoughts for my bridges, but did not take into account atmospheric river and one of my bridged ended up about 20 feet down stream and one had water flowing over it.... If you think its high enough, add another foot to height.....

Does anybody know if you can remove this style fuel pickup and replace it with grommet/bushing (M132706) and later fuel pickup (GY21104)...

Go with the "kennyd" concept, change out odd size couplers to match all couplers to same size.... Its will take less parts and cost less and will simplify everything (no funky adapter or hoses to deal with)

Have you looked into something like this.... https://www.versatube.com/

Have two simple bridges, both based on two 4x6x12 foot timbers with 2x6 inch cross decking... Actual free span is about 10 feet.... It supports a 520 pound riding mower and 200 pound operator just fine.... Think I would go bigger with main timbers before trying to cross with 1400 pound tractor...

Only real problem has really been getting fuel to dry carb bowl after machine sets for a while.... That is why thinking bad fuel line (pin hole air leak) so pump has trouble creating enough vacuum to draw fuel...Runs great once started..... See tank in video, at about 3 minute mark there is...

Visual inspection show there is no rubber grommet in tank unless its flush with top of tank and same color as poly tank.... And if I have to pull the suction tube it probably means I have to remove the whole back deck assembly, AAARG and I dont what to have to do that.... More investigation...

NOt replacing that because I don't think I can get the suction tube out of this early model tank, parts graphics shows it being held in by a grommet, but I am not seeing it....But good to know.., Anyway its almost 6 feet of hose to get from tank to fuel filter and almost another foot from...

New fuel line on order.... Funny I could get 10 foot section of line with two filters and 20 hose clamps and with shipping was less than half the price of local auto parts.... Probably know early next week if it is the "fix"...

IN future try ordering by part number from mower spec sheet or maybe proper aftermarket conversion number, there is no such thing as a generic spindle.... For instance I have two different John Deere mowers, and each one has a different part number for spindles and different method of attaching...

The one I expirmented with just unscrewed the nut that holds the flywheel on.... And yes I was spinning in correct direction to start/run....

Pictures!....

Yeah.... Thougt about cleaning and apply a bit of dielectric grease to all the connectors to prevent the corrosion problems.... As for seat switch good to know... Guess I really need to get teh technical manual for the E180...

BUMP

OK here's my story..... The L120 which has given me so many headaches and that spawned this thread started and ran just fine Saturday morning after all Fridays headaches.... IT is assumed (bad word) it is because fuel bowl is full of fuel from all the cranking in previous episodes of all the...

Yes BUT... it just the one incident and latest one that spawned this message thread.....

Its a 2004 model, yes its a a top draw tank ( access is pretty limited) .... I keep patching mower up as long as repairs are minor (new blades and belts) really subscribing to fact it need new line from tank to pump (pump and pulse tube are new)...

Generally..... Been pretty quirkey lately though.... But its winter have not needed to mow for several months.... Need to get it sorted out because wife will want to mow come spring....

This has separate manual choke cable an its verified working..... Still think a small (pinhole) in fuel line and it has trouble drawing fuel becasue the pinhole reduces the amoun of vacuum fuel pump creates... Its those silly bubble showing up in fuel filter that keeps telling me this....

Yes it has compression release.... Funny thing is after sitting for 24 hours from last run time, it started ok just fine today.... Still think its a fuel draw issue when carb fuel bowl is dry....

Similar to this....

Help a foggy old tired brain.... What is the CD? Do you mean Capacity Discharge?... Think I found it....

Begging your pardon but tractor wiring and wiring diagram shows when key is "on" power (12 volts) is applied to fuel solenoid AND magneto coils...

UPDATE: Well It just would not start this morning...Would not!!!!!! So drug it up to shop with my SCUT pulled hood off, used volt meter to check all connection to eliminate every possibility of a electrical issue... Notably fuel solenoid and power to magneto... Put old spare spark plug on one...

If there is not a control valve associated with these ports and you only have a "Loop Back" hose connecting ports, its going to take a additional control valve in "circuit" with hoses going to ram on trailer (with quick disconnects).... Try exploring "Power Beyond" setups.... Your "flow" would...

Still stubborn.... But it runs like a banshee once started....

Sort of what I'm doing now, yes drilled hole and use carb cleaner with the wand.... Carb cleaner is less volatile than ether...

I did something similar... But there is large angle iron across back of forks that allow me to remove a bolt (pin) on each side to remove forks when not needed...

Wait till you have a EV and dead battery.....

Separate control cable for throttle and choke.... Yes choke fully closes....

New fuel pump and pulse tube....

NOT really... Funny thing is neighbor gave me a E180 mower with 25 HP B&S that a tree fell on, it had sat for a year under a tarp and suprizing enough it started right up after motor turnover may be 6-8 timers....

OK,,, Its a B&S Intec twin 22HP in a JD L120 mower and it has to be the most miserable starting engine ever... IF it sits 6-8 days It just does not want to start (dry fuel bowl in carb?)... When it finally starts ( resorting to jump box and prime) I can see air bubbles coming in inlet side of...

No matter what causes the actual motion of the move, you are going to have to have a skid or framework that supports all the vertical uprights on its standard/correct geometry, or its going to be a pile of tinfoil.... Once you have a skid or platforn the rest is simple.... Check YOUTUBE for...

Wipe down with ligh coat of oil occasionally..... No it does not have to be "wet"....

Check with BRO-TEC.... They do list spacers for Branson's... https://bro-tek.com/

Really can not tell by sales brochure.... What is wheel (rim) lug pattern size of tractor vs wheel lug pattern on proposed purchase... Maybe somebody like BRO-TEC industries can give you wheel specs .... https://bro-tek.com/products/index.php?&addon[]=Kubota

Is hose supposed to be between tank and drain valve? Theoretically if hose is AFTER drain valve and it has no restriction, there should not be any pressure build up... Then there is this.... https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT/5013769009

The higher the RPM the more horse power the better it will work.... Yeah the manual on my FF says run at 2800 to 3200 rpm.... But I tend to only apply enough throttle to get done what I need to do.... Guess to many year behind wheel of a car/truck..... As "loggin" suggests coolant should not...

What problem??.... What browser are you using....

Seem to me first hing is to remove clip.... Need a pointy or blade to insert betweeen clip and housing at the gap and try to get clip to bend in and release from its groove.... Once clip is out more secret may be revealed..

JUst use it, it will fill in a cycle or two.... Check fluid level after a few cycles of cylinder....

I love these things in both SAE and metric.... Have both....

That probably explains the adapter and long mounting sleeves/extension .... Try search for: "kohler_replacing_splined_crankshafts.pdf"... OR "Kohler engines tt359a"...

You migh try explaining to your missus trying to fabricate home made tractor will cost 3X and much as purchasing one to your specifications....

Back to problem at hand... IF all the available 14mm bolts are 1.50mm thread pitch it would seem to me there is a error in measuring thread pitch of exiting bolts.... What are you using to measure thread pitch....

I guess alot "depends"..... IN blacksmithing world ""some"" of their anvils have voids filled with bondo before painting.... But generally in base, not on working surfaces....

Big wrench (crescent) and a pipe over it for leverage... OR long bar with hole in the end and use a bolt to grasp the bent tab....

Build a BIG skid and anchor it to skid and tow it by the skid...

I deflated a mouse in air cleaner of my tractor.... Now have screen across air intake of tractor (and PU and Jeep)....

Maybe... https://www.woodward.com/en/support/industrial/technical-help-desk

Log dog... https://www.juneauempire.com/life/alaska-for-real-the-secret-life-of-logging-dogs/

I don that with my 3PH but uses a chain....

How about "Lift Shackle".... Or maybe "3PT Lift Shackle"

A 3/8 drive ft/lb should be more than suffient (10-80 ft-lb) ... But you need torques specs for drain plug also...Have done a lot of work on VW air cooled and head studs torque to 24-28 ft-lbs which is really not to much.... And yes my my 50+ year old 10mm socket is 3/8 drive...

By directly energizing solenoid, it indicates there is either a bad connection or bad relay or safety switch between terminal on starter and ignition switch.... Also battery light on would probably indicate the generator/alternator is not putting out a charge voltage to battery....

Check these two fuses (red circle) typically one is between battery and tractors electrical "system" and one is to protect alternator output... Also what is "alligator" clip on pos. post of battery (red arrow)? Also the funky after market pos. battery clamp looks sort of nasty... A cleanup...

You guys are beginning to make me think a full time front guard may be prudent, not just the one on my brush forks in previous post... https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/front-bumpers-grill-guards-lets-see-em.445535/page-2#post-6168813

Ditto's on sharp chain....

Wire tie is old school.... Wire was really good for holding up exhaust pipes on cars we wish we had today and restored to remove wire and worth thousands........