Search results

Ok... I'll say it again, the TM151119 full shop/repair manual.... It the one that is about 500 page large.....IT cover all the "E" series from "E100" thru "E180"....

Anybody know where I can get a PDF copy of TM151119 manual for JD E180 Riding mower? Really not willing to spend arm & leg for little bit of information I need...

Something a bit different...

https://www.lindstromequipment.com/other/pid40777/suction-strainer/

Basically with my sub compact (MF GC 1715) , I made a approximate 600 pound ballast, its a box 2 x 2 x 1 feet (4 cubic feet) and one square foor of concrete weigns in at 150 piunds... No ballast... With ballast, about 600 pounds (JD riding mower weighs in at 520 pound accord to JD...

Cracking of this sort is usually caused by fatigue and not by hitting something..... If its cracking the structural design is to weak to maintain the forces needed to keep tensioner operating properly....

I uses 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x .140 square stock.... Its a bit light, they were made for "light" brush work, but the seem to find their way into heavier work....... Maybe 2 x 2 x .145 would be a bit better..... I have bent some of the tines but 8lb sledge brings the back into alignment.... Across the...

Actually the frame for forks are held in place by the single 1/2 inch bolts in each side..... The slots on buckets and with chain links and lynch pin are added bonus provided with bucket from manufacturer... ..

OK... Here Goes.... Bucket lip to hold forks rigid to bucket lip... Inside of Bucket... Outside of bucket... Hope these are detailed enough.... Don't know if you are aware of slot in bucket (or if yours has one).... Chain link and lynch pin...

I have R4's on my subcompact, seem to work well in any situation on my 5 acres.... But for mowing, wife loves her riding mower....

Mine is simpler yet.... And no need for any tools (usually)...

Dealer is going to try to sell you deck $$$$$ Welder on wheels a lot less.... Get welder and learn to weld will be a lifesaver for ever....

latest incarnation of brush forks....

I just use a set of add on forks I fabricated to move brush piles and if I drop a pieces a piece of scrap ply wood on them I can load enough fire wood FEL can't actually lift it with out my ballast weight on....... Then there is this sort of option made from some sort of discarded...

Not sure why you would want to buy expensive tool to use maybe 2-3 time in lifetime when "master links" are cheap and used in thousands of applications over many many many years without a problem....

I'm beginning to believe anything with a Honda motor on it is ok....

Why?..... Ground & neutral should always be same potential and connected to driven ground rod..... Makes no difference if power is fed from utility or generator....

I went three inch spacers (BROTEC) on my GC 1715, don't really envision ever having MM mower.... Made tractor a lot more stable....

Did you check to see if bulb is burned out?

And there is this....

Then there is something like this that takes all the hassle out of connecting a generator.... https://www.portablegenerators360.com/generlink-vs-home-run-meter-mounted-transfer-switch-better/

Yeah... Had that issue, a little "tweak" (bend) solved the problem...

Go to GOOGLE IMAGES and look up "grizzlies".... They come on all shapes and sizes from light weight DIY to really huge massive things.... I have no idea why they are called "grizzlies"...

IF fuel line is rubber.... Pinch it off with vice grips or stick a golf tee or pencil in it.... IF clamp on fuel line is just a spring clip, common pliers should work on it.... BUT fuel filter is probably not your problem if problem "suddenly" appeared....

Usually a "grizzly " works for me as the cost of a rock bucket in out of the picture for my needs..... Not mine but something similar works for me...

I stick to solid wire and shield gas.... Tried TIG, but old eyes and lack of coordination only caused me to ball up tungsten's and never quite got the hang of TIG... But I really don't have any need for TIG....

About your 20 amp breaker trip..... My Hobart 140 running near top settings drawn about 24 amps.... Yes the 20 breaker rating in manual is a joke.... Installed a dedicated 30 amp breaker with 12 gauge wire and all is good.... Yes by national electric code it good.... Check manual on you Amico...

Pretty generic pin set up.... Local Tractor Supply may have them or any one of a dozen tractor hardware suppliers.... Try "GOOGLE SEARCH" for "CAT I Draw Pins"

Here in Cali and just recently having a wild fire at my doorstep, I tend to keep fires relatively small (4 ft. diameter) and easy controllable.... Being a pyro is ok if you must, just not in my neighbor hood.... Also just complete portable water tank system with tank and pump and hose to move to...

Same manual...

Also check out ONLINE auto parts places like Summit Racing or JEGS as the use a lot of these types of silicone hose for supercharges and cold air intakes on competition engines.... Also consider maybe a section of PVC or Aluminum tube to span distance and just two short section of hose as...

Really?

Pump some air ( or water) through water line (inlet to torch) and see where it comes out....

IF alternator in "Internally regulated", one of the two smaller wires is a +12volt supply to initiate the charging cycle of alternator, and second wire generally goes to the "ALT" lamp on dash panel... Generally the alternator puts out a ground on "ALT" lamp lead ( key on but engine off) as...

Pop the latches back to closes position once you have disconnected from removed implement, you can then just come up under pins and the spring load feature will allow the locks to push in when they contact the pins of implement you are connecting to.... The spring load of latches is sort of a...

Still NO FIX for missing delete button?

The difference is if tractor pops into gear or left in gear or even out of gear and rolls backwards, it can not run over you if you are standing out side of the tires track.... Also my owners manual for my tractor it states clearly on almost every page to "turn key to off and remove key and put...

IF clutch is smoking it indicates to me its not adjusted properly, maybe not tight enough, and is slipping which causes friction which causes heat, which causes it to smoke.... Same sort of abuse you get when clutch is slipping in your car or truck and you can smell that nasty "burnt" smell...

IF you use a regular QUICK HITCH.... You don't need this..... This "extra" seems to just be another awkward point in the PAT's system....

IF you have a DL 95 FEL on tractor and IF you have manual for FEL it suggest the dealers have a "quick connect" system available for loader...

Always thought the width bar on Pats was kind of a joke on user that the latest generation of QH eliminated....

Not sure on sway chains, but I have stabilizer turnbuckles on my arms, and I have set them once when I first put QH on tractor, have about 1/2 inch side slop all through hitch arc from all the way down to all the way up....

I have rewired my 7 pin so it only put out 12 Volts to trailer battery when truck or Jeep is running.... Not really a fan of trailer battery possible draining vehicle starting battery... But its a personal thing and many may not agree....

Sounds like defective machine.... Pull the trigger, wire should run....

I hate those things.... Every time it was repaired on my work truck it mysteriously "broke" again..... Just find it and unplug it as mentioned above....

Funny the gender identification has been around since biblical days..... Suddenly in a relatively short period of time (a few years) its become a political hotbed for new terms to change the description of obvious things.... Guess you "binaries" have some explaining to do... But then I never...

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-point-quick-hitch-27-3-16-inch-clearance-97214.html?_br_psugg_q=quick+hitch

For those who are not really bored about using a plow disk for cooking... So.. As far as I can see, nothing new on this TBN page... Expand your horizons here...

Remove mower tail wheel during transport....

Ok that account for the shaft with nothing attached...

Does your setup (tractor) have two PTO output shafts?

But it is the only one that violates the industry "standard".... You set up each implement with proper bushing once. leave bushing on implement, there is no problem.... Fix each implement once, be happy for ever...

There has to be at least a dozen brands of CAT 1 quick hitches available..... If a CAT 1 implement does not fit the CAT1 QH its the fault of implement (manufacturer) and not the quick hitch.... Only negative I am aware of it most post hole augers will not work with QH and the QH may make it...

Some resources.... https://www.smokstak.com/ http://www.hitnmiss.com/ https://www.rustyiron.com/antiquestationar.html

I cheated.... 1 inch water pipe on my CAT 1 Pins.... This is on my 600lb ballast box.... This is affordable way to have bushings on every implement And yes its a draw bar bolted to ballast box with 3/4 inch threaded rod...

You one time modify your non conforming implements so your QH works on everything and you don't have to remove it....

I love mine too..... BUT I have found that by just setting the depth, and angle and not trying to adjust amount of cut mine works well... What I do is use the flexibility of unit to push it (grinding head) side ways to contact tooth minimally to put a edge on tooth....

Have you put a pressure gauge on system.... Your pressure relief valve (in FEL valve body ?) may not be functioning correctly ...

Depends on if you want always on (just switch controlled) or only on when ignition is on (+ switch control) ..... They make a tap fuse holder that may work on your fuse block you just have to select a fuse location on how its powered... Check local auto parts....

I have vehicles in two of these and both have lasted about 10 years....

Might also try this link... https://parts.agcocorp.com/en_US/apbsearch/model

Personally I would walk away.... Have had projects with way less damage that turned into a "daymare' (nightmare in daylight) .....

Got to be 50 videos on youtube on how to adjust toe in... Whether its tractor or riding mower, 4WD or family sedan it all the same...

https://parts.agcocorp.com/en_US/apbsearch/model Use model number "GC2300" in search filed Maybe if you have part number? Check Page 254... Is there parts you you need? https://parts.agcocorp.com/en_US/apbsearch?q=masseyferguson/651794/l&name=GC2300+%2F+GC2310+TRACTOR+EFF+S%2FN+JNA25201 IF...

Big winches pull tremendous amperage (current) under load, best cable would probably be #4 or #2 welding cable.... Do not be surprised under hard pull winch will severally drain battery and even maybe kill battery and alternator... As for connecting winch to tractor system if winch will only...

Simple Google search by part number show the the are available in many places... https://aftermarket.express/john-deere/am36597 https://www.tractorpartsasap.com/spindle-john-deere-part-no-am36597.html https://www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-ARM-AM36597.html...

A display of horsepower?

My dog's house is 2600 sq-ft, has AC in summer and heat in winter and has two servants....

Just be sure your "temporary " repairs are good, because they tend to become permanent...

OUCH.... First time ever I have seen these temperatures in California....

Cali has blackouts and Cali has blackeyes from Pacific Graft & Extorsion (PG&E)... A company more worried about what they are worth on stock market than providing service to its rate payers.... Its only 104° here to day and hoping like hell they can maintain power.... Generator only runs well...

I made a 2 x 2 x 1 ft. steel box (weights in about 550 pounds), added four 2 inch ABS tubes for tool holders (bottom drill for drains) and also a lifting loop (yes you may need it if box gets over) and large angle iron on read to attachment point for ball hitch ir to drag my chain harrow...

Maybe... https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Hose-and-Hose-Assemblies/Hose-Sleeve/

Best battery I have had over the years has been ODYSSEY AGM batteries... Believe one in Jeep is about 8-9 years old and Jeep start like magic every time... https://www.odysseybattery.com/

Possible try a better browser for your cell phone/PC/tablet.... All browsers and browsing apps are not equal ....

Internal corrosion (invisible) in cable will cause resistance, resistance causes heat... Might be easier (less expensive ) to replace cable to see if it solves problem... IF it does not solve problem, then yes its probably starter...

Sorry... I though you meant the "bracket" that holds "anti-scalp wheel assembly" (parts 020 through 060 ) to deck.... Did you really mean the (060) K5221-72680 PIN....

By the Messick site it looks to be part of the mow deck ..... https://www.messicks.com/ku/93378 Get a welder and learn to weld....

I had my GC 1715 buried to frame in mud of seasonal creek and I hooked up my Jeep with 10,000 LB winch,,, Guess what I was able to slide the 4500 pound Jeep till I blocked all four wheels... Yes lightly stick it may be OK with small winch,,,, But if really stuck think 3500 pound winch is not...

EDIT to ZIP because my DELETE KEY DISAPPEARED....

Never had any problem getting chain and hooks at local ACE hardware..... Only thing I ever had problem finding was a Large ring made with 1/2 inch OD steel steel with about a 3 inch ID.... Finally ended up making my own rings....

You may also want to add tool rack as "chim" suggests.... Also I found it great for my use to have some ability to "connect" items to rear of weight box... In pic is a 6 foot length RR track when drug behind tractor smooths ground and erases a lot of tire tracks.... And maybe some sort of...

Kudos on the fix and finding the real problem... How did you deal with the cross shaft situation....

TSC has pins with flats on one side...

https://www.messicks.com/part/67156-34340/ring-snap https://parts.kubotaofomaha.com/kubota-snap-ring-67156-34340/ https://www.colemanequip.com/parts/details/KubotaParts/RING--SNAP/67156-34340/ https://www.hoober.com/kub-67156-34340-ring-snap...

Yeah.... GOV. Nuisance if Cali. already realizes he has to extend Diablo Canyon Nuclear plant end of life because with drought hydro electric is failing, wind does not always blow and Pacific Graft & Extorsion (PG&E utility company) really does no want you tiering your solar into their grid...

This is why I suggest you wait on your build till tractor is available to take measurements....

And your container not supported properly could have this sort of problem.... Dear Customer: Sorry to say you item was damage or delayed in transportation....

Wonder what hazardous materials disposal fees are going to be on all the wonderful 'lectric vehicle batteries in future? Wonder if its factored in purchase price of tractor....

If you get it wrong and your hitch points on ballast are to low you will never get it off/on tractor.... I made that mistake, had to add 4 inches to bottom of ballast box and still have to have a pallet to set ballast box on to get it to release from 3PH ... Don't try to use numbers from...

Cheap junk axle assemblies out from under "mobile home"..... Original designed to get "mobile" from factory to its intended site, nothing more....

Some how or another CHEVRON think its fuels are gold and they are priced at about 20% higher then other stations, If you are along a freeway its maybe 30% higher... One has to go inland to find legitimate gas pricing ....

Think I'll wait till we get over the "go electric hysteria" to save the planet..... And in California with the crappy electrical grid, I would have to buy diesel generator to keep it charged....

Manual says to torque nut to 600FT-LBS (on page 11) ..... Should not need tac weld or locktite... https://bushhog.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/BHRotaryCutter305-306OM-03.pdf

IF you have high current draw (amperage) devices one should add fuse block and fuse direct from battery using appropriate gauge wire...IF wire gets hot its tell you its to small of a gauge and the resistant in small gauge is to much for large amperage draw.... IF it blows fuse on internal...

Kind of seems like arms and collars are pinned to shaft, have not looked real close but cursory glance they seem to be its only locked in by pins and collars(arms) ... To my dismay the shaft rides in two sleeves in frame with zerk fitting that there in no way to put grease gun on zerks (also no...

The GC 1705 and GC 1715 are NOT factory backhoe.... The GC 1710 and GC 1720 ARE factory backhoe... The real difference is the GC 1705 and GC1710 are like 22HP and the GC 1715 and GC1720 are 25HP..

Firm believer in AGM battery... Put a ODYSSEY brand in my JEEP... Ran it down so bad (twice) with winch operation the voltage dropped so low JEEP died, took about 15 minutes of rest time and it recovered enough to start jeep, and yes JEEP has 100AMP alternator and could no keep up with winch...

Some tractors do not have electric control over throttle, some are purely mechanical.... Follow throttle cable form dash lever to where it connects on engine... It may be purely the adjustment is to loose to gain max throttle....

Are you saying fans have their own batteries.... Using terms like 12 volts and USB are no really compatible as USB ports are 5 Volt...

Take "lug bolt" to auto parts store and see if the have a "stud" (headless bolt) that fits the hub.... Cut screw driver slot in stud so it can be easily removed once other lug bolts are in place and holding wheel...

For what its worth there is one mention of a 10 micron filter in maintance manual.... Anything with a larger micron size would not cause a restriction issue.... Funny thing is I can get a WIX 11 micron filter for a kabota the will fit my GC1700 series a lot cheaper then the MF filter...

Bungee cords?....

My DURR splitter (maybe 30 years old) probably made by MDT (lot of interchangeable MDT part numbers) uses Dexron II (auto trans) fluid.... Seems Dexron II is no longer available, so went with Dexron III.... Probably any 10w (ISO 32) auto trans (non detergent) fluid would be ok...

MF recommends Permatrans 821XL for the GC 17XX series tractor..... The thing is if you do research there is maybe 50 brands of hydraulic fluid out there with same specifications.... Only thing I really can vouch for it is a 10w30 weight semi synthetic fluid.... You may want to do research from...

That is why I quoted the 1600 pounds, figured it was limits was able to lift, and doubt stump is that heavy...

Quite honestly stump does not look that big..... Probably need to up RPM to get more hydraulic power... Do you have rear ballast?.... If you have the LA 1065 loader you should have about 1691 pounds lift ...

A grade 2 or grade 5 or grade 8 bolt would have same physical dimension that is why all will fit... The difference is the carbon contend and "shear" pressure in PSI required to actually shear the bolt to release its holding feature.... Same with metric bolts, but diameters and grade differ...

Might try repairing/modifying QH to work properly instead of having to change pins on or modifying all your implements...

I have used these people on various projects.... https://push-pull.com/

A way in may be here.... https://parts.agcocorp.com/en_US/?linkToSitesPopup=true

Like so many sites today, lack luster or just plain indifference to the site quality of the admins....

And yet it is a deviation from the "standard" which makes it with its own set of problems....

I would stay with recommended size recommended by manufacturer ... Larger diameter may increase FPM (feet per minute) of cutting blade and may not be to your advantage....

Considering size of tractor batteries and alternators I am not in favor of electric winches on tractors.... But IF you insist.... I suggest receiver hitches on front and rear of chassis if possible and adapter for winch that will fit receivers....

Pretty typical of any quick hitch that is produced in China with minimum standards..... This is problem in industry today... Made cheap as possible and ask exorbitant price for item.... Another issue with quick hitches and its not quick hitch specification/design fault it is implement...

BUT just getting oil at ports does not indicate working pressure.... You need pressure gauge in system to confirm working pressure, not just presence of oil...

Generally any gauge (fuel) that reads full all the time is caused by open circuit between gauge and sender. or bad sender.......

Usually broken bolts are cause by them being loose and allowing attached hardware move around and shear bolts off.. Solution may be just better quality bolts (grade 5 or grade 8) and lock washers and torqued to spec.... And checked once in a while...

Might try tracing lines to see what function they perform... Also what is "towed equipment" better description may help with identification of lines...

Always been pretty happy with Rust -Oleum products... They actually have a rattle can or red that is so close a match to my MF red it scares me...

Really ... "Positive post"???....... That argument has raged on for years in several automotive blogs I follow and never proven either way is correct. Open either negative (ground ) lead or positive battery lead remove any current loop.... Manual disconnect switches are not voltage/ground...

But my generator is portable (6500 watts) and I would have to open up "umbilical" with NEMA 14-30 plugs (or make adapter cord) to get reading, then there is the 120 VAC circuits.... So induction devices are no always the answer..... This is why I go back to calculating the wattage demand of...

Something for all to consider for after market induction coil metering devices (not clamp on), are you willing to tear generator apart to install the induction coils..., And if you Genny is like mine, the are 9 wires coming out of generator unit to control/distribution panel, what individual...

Just use pre-flaired replacement lines, FLAPS (Friendly Local Auto Parts Store) generally have assortment of sizes and lengths.... Usually cheaper than getting fairing tool the does not work well....

Absolute believer in the 100 ft "defensible space" around structures ... Just suffered through the OAK fire in California (18,000 acres).... And fire came right up to my property line and stopped, went around my property and a few others next to me with clear defensible space and continued on...

IF truck stays on property just repair/replace enough wiring to run basic ignition/charging system and not worry about the rest.... Mice/rat chewed wiring is probably caused by insulation that is made from SOY bases materials.... Automotive industry when to a lot of SOY bases materials for...

I have about 400 feet of 3/4 inch well packet gravel drive way and it been dressed maybe 3-4 times in last 4-5 years with my light tractor (MF GC 1715) using only home made harrow, key to thing is how you use drive way, once you have all the humps and hollows smoothed out you may or may not...

Slow cranking issues are usually caused by: Bad Battery Dirty/corroded terminals on battery cables. Battery/ground cable with corrosion under insulation (no visible indicators). Poor/corroded ground cable (from battery) connection at chassis/engine. Starter solenoid (high amperage contacts)...

90% of your welding problems will be in not doing proper preparations.. Want pretty beads with penetration, practice, practice, practice.... But then I only do MIG.... Then there is this for stick junkies.... https://waterwelders.com/what-the-numbers-on-welding-rod-mean/

How do I plug in my NEMA 14-30P into it....

Stay with brand and type already used on tractor (FEL?) ....

Alternative to test "load" on genny may be to look at nomenclature tag of device(s) you are trying to power up and adding them together to see if it exceeds rating of generator...

Personally I am looking for a scraper blade with both tilt and angle as my condition change as to where I am grading. If I am cutting into a slope to create a "level" trail. tilt is most important to me in a blade... Conceptually to me a box blade can only cut on same angle as tractor (no tilt...

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-30249A-Adapter-Vanadium-Conversions/dp/B01G3VKPAE/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=socket+adapter&qid=1658328314&sr=8-5

With those medical devices/limitations I seriously would not go near an slopes with riding mower specially if there is not a flat area to turn mower around before you enter pond..... Best use of mower on slope is going up/down slope (not across face), but when trying to turn there is great...

Taking repair process one step further, It may be good idea to check all the retaining bolts on the pins, and be sure all the retaining bolts are tightened to torque spec... Maybe even removing bolts and cleaning threads and applying thread locker, or if access to back side of bolt is available...

I would cut out damaged/rusted areas, and patch it with like sized material, if a 120V "mig" welder can't do it, it's a problem with the weldor and not the welder....

Probably BPT (British Pipe Threaded) to boot... Had similar issue of thread size/type when replacing a hose on my DL 95 FEL...

Excuse me but could you explain more, the manual says front diff and gear boxes use same as HST... The MF recommended HST oil is a blend, part synthetic and dino oils and rated as a 10w30.... Not sure how that equates to 85-90W "gear lube"...

Always bothered me to see tools like this damped...Yes I understand cost and deprecation at a commercial venture but as self support individual it makes me sort of sad...

Along the lines of longer pin concept, how about some sort of cross strap to keep "ears" in line as long as it does not interferer with ram and movement.... If it bent once it may do it again...

If you are going to do your own (DIY) filter & fluids change be aware there is a couple of online sources for filter kits.... Seems there are at least two, one for just engine (Oil & Air filter & Fuel) ) and one for "everyting"... Links are somewhere in this forum....

Some people have advocated using suction of shop vac to hold negative pressure in HST case so when they just change filter and clean screen they have minimal loss of hydraulic fluids... Seem reasonable as a concept, but have not tried it yet.... I think my dealer sort of got to me on my 50 hour...

Personally I have a Dewalt abrasive chop saw and it does fine for my needs...I got it becasue I was unsure of what my needs were going to be, but it has done everything I asked it to do.... Only negative, is it showers hot sparks and metal down on concrete and stains/scorches concrete unless I...

If it were me and I did not have correct location of switch, I would crawl under the beast and inspect all components of clutch linkage....Not going to a lot of mechaniocal stuff to look at, and there will probbl be a switch close to pedal or where throwout shaft goes into belhousing...

There is about a 1/16 hole in cap/plug that directly connects to bottom side of plug for vent, if you can take something like a can of WD 40 or PB Blaster with a wand and blow product through hole, venting is not your problem.... IF you change filters and problem did not go away, filter is...

Top left will be idle speed setting, bottom right will idle fuel mixture adjustment...

IF my welds looked that good and the piece I made fit that good I would be one happy camper....

Sure you can but by the time you buy adapter to tank, shut off valve, regulators and plumb it all together, you can probably buy a small "power" sprayer for less....

Maybe a source for what you need.... https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Adapters-Fittings/NPT-to-NPT/

Well a lot of people have tractors but who can brag they have a "dumb waiter"......

Seems like a lot of extra effort to use tractor to lift groceries. How about small electric winch operated "lift" on porch to do what is needed...

Never had to use a wrench (other than 2 pin wrench for cutoff wheels) almost ever thing I use was always put on hand tight and usually can grip it enough it will loosen, BUT if you have to use a wrench to loosen you must....

TEH top of the rail where the wheels roll will be work hardened but the composition of completer rail will be the same... https://makeitfrommetal.com/what-grade-of-steel-is-railroad-track-uses-and-tips/#:~:text=So%20what%20kind%20of%20steel,0.7%25%20to%201%25%20manganese.

Drilled a hole 11/16 because it was biggest drill bit I had, heated end of rail with rose bud torch till high red heat and "drifted" (forced ) square drift through hole... Took several heats over about 3 hours.... Its a Blacksmithing thing...

Please keep us updated on repairs...

Next process is to drift hardy tool hole in end of rail anvil...

Ditto's this comment... Also NOT a great fan of cut and weld process..... Might be time to invest in good set of torches with rose bud tip....

Not to expensive upgrading tombstone to DC...

Think this is one for heavy eq. repair shop.... Simple for them, difficult for you... But if you insist, I would get the ram off the pin first then reevaluate... You have two issues here...Possible bent ram (almost certain unless it goes straight when pin removed) .. Double bend in sheet...

Battery disconnect switches are pretty generic... https://www.waytekwire.com/products?pSearch=battery%20disconnect https://www.delcity.net/productsearch?search=battery+disconnects&x=0&y=0&it= Personally I would hunt down and fix what is draining battery so you don't have to deal with any...

There is parts compatibility problems even within a manufactures product line, hard to think that many items from different manufacturers would interchange...

That's a pebble.... In California we have real rocks....

Just so you know, I have two 240V 50 Amp outlets in garage, one for electric drier and one for what ever reason I need it for.... Years ago (12 to 14) I sold my 240V stick welder as I was no longer using it, about 7 years ago I needed to get back into welding and decided to try a 120V MIG, so...

This is why I installed a dedicated 30 Amp circuit for my HH 140...

A little bit you can learn from welders owners manual, why you keep popping your 15 amp breaker.... From Hobart Handler 140 manual... And A little internet electrical conversion...

Never mind, misinterpreted a previous picture... Guess my comprehension skills are fading with age...

I sneak up on object with FEL, if I engage it and FEL says no.... Time to back off...IF I keep hammering at object then its abuse....

I think first question is can pin be removed?... Al lot will depend on repair whether pin is in or out... IF pin is able to come out, detach BH and any repairs will be alot simpler...

Yes definitely move hoses off to side and shield from any heat you may apply....

Odd you should mention that , my 1715 does not have the above mentioned breather on fill tube...

My first thought would be heat and hammer, but really would like to hear other ideas...

Waiting patiently for final outcome...

You point is well taken, but if industry creates a standard, and a manufacturer does not recognize it or built to it its on the manufacturers shoulders... Got to agree with MinnesotaMorg... Push it back to manufacturer...

Seems about right.... About the same as my GC 1715... Watching video it takes about 3 seconds of cranking to start (about 9 second to 12 second mark in video)....

AND there is this....

A question I did not see a answer to is what is diameter of pins supplied with cutter....

Probably over full..... IF you can not "see" level in glass, maybe it is above the glass.....

IF that comment is pointed at me.... Well.... I use .030 wire exclusively and had to put in 30Amp circuit to keep amperage draw of welder from popping 20Amp breaker.... According to HOBART spec sheet it can draw up to 24.5 amp on AC input side, and that sort of makes me believe its capable of...

Really!.... I have never had duty cycle of my Hobart Handler 140 stop my work progress.....

We all understand the relevance of that, BUT it does not solve the issue presented....

I understand the concept of removing pins on adjustable linked and allow link arms arms to move freely, but does that no remove the stability issue of implement that the arms are supposed to create when everything is pined in place by design..... Still don't believe the concepts you presented...

Would that not actually spread the bars wider? My understanding of geometry seems to contradict what you are saying...

Check out cutting disk on this machine.... It popped up on local yard sale site just today y...

That s why anything I weld does not go off the property... Unless its just an ornamental piece...

YES... Need model number of valve.... IF you have data sheet for valve body it would also help us...

Did you check to see if "swing" cylinder(s) is still connected?

Not sure how your tractors GP's are wired/controlled.... But light may never go off if there is not a timer on GP circuit..... MY GC 1715 manual says hold key at GP position for about a 10 count then start.... I would still check GP's and associated controls. .. Even in mild weather 70°f. mine...

When things start cutting poorly then its time to sharpen.... Found out OREGON brand blades work a whole lot better and last longer than the JD blades for my riding mower... Sharpening them after every cutting session is a OCD problem, and should be avoided....

First thing I would do is open up unit and get any numbers or manufacturers data off switch.... If it needs replacing it may be readily available on (i-net) market... As for changing amperage switch there is no need to power down welder as there is no load on switch if you are not drawing arc...

Picture of problem without the duct tape would better explain your situation... For me, first option would be to take it to hydraulic cylinder repair shop and have it professionally done.... Second option may be to get male/female coupler (of proper type) and screw it into damaged bung on...

I did something similar...

The only drawback to high end 120 Volt AC MIG welders (140 amp +/-) is the most will require a 30 Amp circuit no matter what the welder manual tells you....

Seriously doubt you are going to find anything in class of welder sufficient for your needs made in USA that will be for $400 or less.... If you only need to do hobby welding and using steel then why not a MIG only.... Have a Hobart Handler 140 and love the machine.... Does everything I need...

Having trouble seeing most current pictures.... Not getting them only large minus sigh in a circle...

A little off topic but what type of lynch pin is this....

So I guess next step is for OP to pull the pins on anti sway bars and see if lift arms will actually come in closer to fitting implement

Maybe fab shop did not read website...

Looking at the measurement of implement in picture it seems to be CAT I Check the "W" dimensions in document below... Cat II Should be almost 40+ inches... And yes the "V" dimension for cat II say it should fit but tractor design prevents that...