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You could use a spark tester to verify spark from the operator position. If you are loosing spark, the condenser is your prime suspect. If you have an analog VOM, you can test the condenser as follows: 1. Discharge the condenser by disconnecting the lead and shorting it to the condenser...

With this new information, I would suspect the control valve isn't sealing properly. With your ballast on the lift and engine running, remove the hydraulic fill cap under the seat and look for a very small leak. There are 4 valves in the lift system: Control Valve, Unloader Valve, Check Valve...

Thank you for the kind words. It came to me with a Howard auxiliary transmission and I added a Sherman Combo when restoring it. First gear and low range on the Sherman and Howard really make it creep. You can see the Howard shifter in photo below. This too is a barn queen and it will never work...

Personal preference but I like the way it looks with lights installed as shown on my 1950 below:

The tongue and groove being worn would not cause a loss of spark. It may fire imprecisely but it will still fire. To help us troubleshoot the problem, we're gonna need more details. Since we aren't there in person we are depending on you for information. The quality of our troubleshooting steps...

Please pull one of the spark plugs and verify you are getting blue/white sparkies or invest in spark tester shown below that will also provide spark intensity.

The pump may be worn but you could also have a worn ram cylinder. Load the lift with your heaviest implement and pull the plug in photo to see how much it's leaking from the cylinder. A steady drip is OK, if it's pouring out, you've likely found the problem. Also, what hydraulic oil do you have...

Replace the points, plugs, condenser, rotor & cap. If the wires are cracked & frayed, replace them as well, or you will spend days trying to find that one short. Tune Up Part Numbers Borg Warner - Available at O Reilly Auto Parts Points A97H or for heavy duty A97V Condenser G111 or G125 need...

P/N 504 in the diagram is the fork that SG was pointing you toward - They sometimes come off the T-shaped control valve linkage (P/N 640) which makes the lift operate as you describe.

Joe, if we're talking about the same spring (99810 in below diagram) that allows the governor to move the throttle linkage to the carburetor without moving the hand lever below the steering wheel. My earlier post is germain to your original problem with the throttle lever not staying put.

The objective is to flatten the Welch plug so that it spreads out and jams in the hole: 1. Ensure the plug receptacle in the block is squeaky clean. 2. Coat the block with Loc-Tite and insert the plug. Permatex Form-A-Gasket #1 is a suitable alternate. 3. Use two ball peen hammers - One as a...

HTH

Here's a visual to go along with Soundguys good advise. Just increase the tension on the "spider" by tightening the nut. You may find the fiber disk is worn or even missing.

"Tomorrow i hope to run the tiller through it but i'm unsure if i need an over running clutch adapter. The tiller has a slip clutch and the shafts mate" You only need an ORC for a rotary cutter. The ORC acts as a ratchet to stop the inertia of the heavy, spinning cutter blades from pushing...

Just to help you out, they're call Welch Plugs and there is somewhat of a technique for installing them. The objective is to flatten the Welch plug so that it spreads out and jams in the hole: 1. Ensure the plug receptacle in the block is squeaky clean. 2. Coat the block with Loc-Tite and...

I agree with SG on the non working generator contributing to your run issues providing you keep your battery charged up. Here's how I added a temperature gauge to mine: Here's a couple of alternatives if you don't have the boss cast into the head:

Harbor Freight item 91352 - Best $10.00 you'll ever spend. Hook the thumb behind the seal and hammer it out. Tap one side and then move to the other, walks the seal out every time.

Most modern PTO couplers have a push button that engages a radial groove on the tractors PTO shaft to keep the shaft from sliding off. If you have the original 1-1/8" PTO shaft on your 8N, it doesn't have the radial groove like the later model 1-3/8's shafts to capture the mowers PTO shaft...

The "spider" tensions the throttle to maintain the position of the throttle lever. Sounds like the threads may be stripped in the housing or on the stud. Might be something JB Weld could fix?

Are you using an alternator or generator for the conversion? If alternator - Is it a one or three wire? Here's the schematic for a 12 volt conversion using a one-wire GM alternator. HTH