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Read this from another forum: https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/rebuild-hydraulic-breaker.106975/

I looked at all three 4609 versions, 2013-14, 2014-15 and 4609M, Tier 4 2015-19 and they all show the same fan, hub, pulley assembly held on with 4 bolts like @LouNY said.

https://www.abilenemachine.com/used-thermostat-housing-am181521m1-u?srsltid=AfmBOor1VU0-BMj7qIyhfPQrA96N6X5olUwnug8J05oso-dMOR5Bbyoc https://www.robertstractor.com/Massey-Ferguson-35-40-50-135-Thermostat-Housing_p_8112.html

Read about it here at the bottom of the screen, on the second page: https://injectionpumps.co.uk/cav-dpa-manuals/

Welcome to TBN! The part (bushing/tophat) attached to the line in the bottom of your 3rd picture is what holds tension and the parts in the end plate to regulate the low pressure fuel. You can use standard fuel line, but the leak at the bushing is most likely a missing or damaged oring or...

The fuel runs out under the cap. I should say, you are bleeding the air out of the filter, so run the fuel out from under the cap until you see few or no bubbles. Filling the filter with fuel first will keep from having to bleed so much out to get rid of the air. The solenoid is located on the...

I don't know that tractor, but possibly could it have a PTO controller that isn't sensing that the PTO is off?

Not good news, but hydrostatic steering would be simpler to install and probably the best solution for a loader tractor. Industrial tractors with power reverser or shuttles have PTOs, but not very strong ones. The Ford C and D series were good, but becoming hard to find parts for the transmissions

That is original on the emissionized engine. Before you start, make sure you have at least a half tank of fuel. Turn the fuel off. Unscrew the black ring at the top of the filter and pull the filter down. Look to make sure there are not any seals stuck in the filter head. Push the new filter...

If the sound doesn't change with rpm or hydraulic load, probably not the pump

Discount Hydraulics has this guide: https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/mm5/thread_guide.pdf

Being that the PTO system is a hydraulic pump and motor, a premium hydraulic/transmission oil is the recommendation. Don't expect much from that PTO system though. And dot 3 is the brake fluid in that system

Are you talking about the toplink storage?

Yup, but that would be 3113B, 50#. The 99# option, 3022B may work, but you have to be careful not to overweight the front end. Good company,, dealer sales only, lots of options. https://northstatesales.com/suitcase-weights/

Agree with fuel drain/flush. Change the transmission oil if boots are gone as water has gotten in for sure. Boots: 82007346 about $22.00 from New Holland Change rear end/hydraulic oil as this is cheap compared to hydraulic pump or PTO parts

Loader filter: New Holland 7702218 r/b: 86546604 Kit Napa 1590 Wix 51590 Outer Air filter: New Holland E6NN9B618AB Napa 6449 Also, you have 1976? Date code should be something like 6B16B which would be 1976, February 16 Messicks parts book is a good place for information on your tractor...

Yeah, it seems like a glorified shovel, but beats shoveling by hand@

730 system capacity 10.5 gallons plus 6.5 gallons for 750 backhoe, but unless you purge all the cylinders you won't need much more than about 8 or 9 gallons. Don't forget to change the filter on the loader lefthand upright on the bottom

That is the block on the 1210 to tie into. I am pretty sure the front port is pressure for the loader and the back port is return. With the lines hooked up, you need to turn the slotted spool, on the block, so that oil can go to the loader.

Engine oil w/filter 7.0 qts Coolant 2.75 Gallons Transmission/rear end 13.8 qts PS 2.0 qts I will find the loader/backhoe for you 730 loader/750 backhoe setup

There is an adapter block that has to be installed on the top cover assembly to get a supply and return for the loader. It is pictured here, but not available anymore. Kleiber Tractor has one for sale: NEW HOLLAND Part # SML25854 INACTIVE:BLOCK » Kleiber Tractor and Equipment, Texas Ebay lists...

Welcome to TBN! Engine antifreeze - at this point, Prestone mixed to your coldest weather specifications Engine oil - a good grade diesel motor oil. Probably 15w40 All other oils - a hydraulic transmission oil from New Holland, Deere, Kubota, Cat, Tractor Supply, Napa can be used. You may save...

I agree, but the hydraulic oil saved will pay for it quickly, not to mention the mess that it is creating.

Same oring. 87016S95 is replaced by 9961976 and again, I would suspect the fitting 9621483, about $17.00, at this point. Regardless of the fit of the oring in the recess, it sounds like the fitting has an imperfection allowing the oring to push out of place. The pressure off of the main pump is...

Welcome to TBN! The parts manual shows 9991976 0.070'' Thk x 0.739'' ID 90 Duro. I would look at replacing the fitting as that is where the oring seats and any distortion would come from the track for the oring.

Welcome to TBN! Are you sure the issue isn't with leaking cylinders on the batwing? Ram stops would stop it for a predetermined height. Transport latches for the wings would hold the wings in place, but if you are saying that you leave the mower raised when you stop and in the morning it is...

Welcome to TBN! @thepumpguysc is his handle. Parts book, but doesn't show much on Bosch pump: https://www.farmtracpartsonline.com/_files/ugd/819289_eec45a53b297466a87e628805d8d1e1e.pdf

Welcome to TBN! Remove the mounting nuts, #14, on the platform/floor in the front and back. This will give you flexibility to lift up the cowling around the fuel tank enough to get the tank out. I think I put 2x4 or 4x4 pieces on the front mount to keep the it propped up. There is enough...

Welcome to TBN! Not difficult if you are mechanical and have the tiols. The hardest thing on most any cylinder is getting the piston bolt loose. You may need to heat it some to get it loose. Likewise, it should be Loctited on and torqued. The loader should be a 730 or 735, which can be verified...

If you are getting air bubbles, it is getting in somewhere along the fuel line, filter or valve

I would say that your turnbuckle needs to be adjusted. Neutral is pretty finicky to find, but I believe it is adjusted to the extreme so that the centering valve cannot center.

Maybe Servis/Rhino, maybe Bushhog. Any casting numbers on gearboxes? Closeup photo of gearboxes?

@bvanek so, so, sorryly true!

Interesting read on another forum: https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=orphans&th=17994 It looks like you have to contact India: https://eichertractors.in/eichertractors/eicher-tractor-485

I've had this set for years. Really versatile.

That would be the best way to remove the shield washer and the seal.

Welcome to TBN! I can't see a plate over the seal, but you could probably pry it out.

You are missing #12, rubber bushing that goes over the cable end bracket

Just saw this. You can see the parts and order from here: https://www.messicks.com/catalogs/new-holland/3000-series-3-cyl-tractor-01-65-12-74

Welcome to TBN! Your 445 is an earlier version power shuttle that requires the engine to be near idle when shifting from FWD to REV or vice versa. Not knowing what the oil level was when you started makes it difficult to say why the oil was leaking out causing the hissing sound. (It would...

Agree on a spray pump like a Hypro Shurflo diaphragm pump or equivalent

Welcome to TBN! If whatever he did blew out all of those fuses, it's a good chance it fried some other terminals or contacts. You say you have power at the switch coming out. Can you follow that circuit to the fuse block? I would look at the fuse contacts or the connection at the fuse block...

So I agree with @beenthere. Which line blows off, the pump to injectors or the injectors to tank. Probably a kink/pinched line in the injectors to tank line

Welcome to TBN! The ball joint is too stiff?

Okay, understand. I noticed you were looking for a 56/6610 cylinder. Glad you found the problem and q solution. That cylinder doesn't look to be built very stout.

What are you waiting for from Amazon? You have the seal kit and have it apart?

Essentially, that is a 5000 series Ford copy

Interesting. I see two blue u-cup seals on the bench. Where does the second one go? That would be the one for the rod end, but I agree, I don't see it going in the bore easily.

Welcome to TBN, by the way. Hope we have been helpful.

The only thing that I can add, and I think you already alluded to this, is that the rotor is bad where it mounts to the shaft.

Pictures will not come up due to permissions. Can you just attach to your post? Also, your description is unclear as I read it the same way as @John0829

Welcome to TBN! Doing a Google Lens search, it appears to be a Lely Super Zip 380 or 420

Welcome to TBN! If you look at the parts book, the oring for the 3000 measures 2.825" (0.215" thickness + 2.61" inside diameter), so it can't be 3". The only place the roughness of the piston would cause problems is around the oring groove. You can clean the old one up and take the sharp edge...

Probably dealer gets a better bulk buy from NH on oil. JD does have different recommendations for some of their industrial stuff. JD excavators call for JD hydraulic oil while Hitachi excavators, which make larger JD excavators spec'ed their oil only!

Welcome to TBN! The 1210 will run a 48" flail just fine. Many to look at, but here is one that is just a flail mower: https://valleytoolmfg.com/vrisimo/minimax-flail-mower/

Welcome to TBN! It sounds like you broke your differential side and/or pinion gear(s) on the differential. #9, 10

Pretty sure I heated the tapered pin to get it loose.

Welcome to TBN! Hard to tell whether you would need to split or not, but my guess is, being a prison unit, the shifter was forced and something like a fork is bent. Not a terrible repair.

I resealed/rebuilt a 4500 not ling ago that yses the same system. I can't remember how I got the tapered pin out, but it was something similar, just minus the air hammer. The leaks are the easy part. Fixing the play in the linkage could get expensive. I has one part machined to replace a worn...

Well I'm used to the Autocut on my Stihl KM110 as you load the two lines, then just push the lines through the slots and snap in place.

Welcome to TBN! Yes, it does. #12 in the illustration.

Through the plug in the top of the can, #35

Yes, through the PS shaft seal, #11 in the illustration.

It is an FSA86R. And yes, the batteries are expensive! What I don't like; when it runs down, you need to have another battery ($$$) or wait for it to charge. Also, the head that came with it, Autocut C 6-2, is absolutely the worst. I have some $99 B&D trimmers with better heads. The Stihl head...

Absolutely the best. My Kombi is 25 years old and I have never used any special gas or Stihl mix oil. It runs great today and beats my electric Stihl every time!

Welcome to TBN! I can't find the parts page that shows this. That said, I would guess a snap ring and washer holds it in place, but at this point, you will have to replace the gear and shaft. Correction, here is diagram...

Searching the internet, it looks like what @Sportsman762 said about it possibly a Minnesota brand, prison built spreader. Linked is on very similar https://www.fragodtauctions.com/auctions/10162/lot/27588-minnesota-5-x-10-manure-spreader-single-beater-540-pto-20-tires-on-8-bolt-rims

Only one way to fit and bolt the factory valve and an oring out of place would blow oil out of the valve to mount. Did you just have the original cover in place before installing the valve and where did the valve come from?

Most overflow hoses are the same size. I think 5/16"

Welcome to TBN! Are you talking about the lines to the cylinder? If so, hook them up. If wrong, switch them around, it won't hurt anything.

Welcome to TBN! As long as you are using it on that tractor, it will be fine. If you leave it on the grinder and put it on a larger tractor, you will probably have a problem. You can actually get away with a seies 3 for that tractor as it is rated for 30 hp

Exactly as @mjw357 said, not too tricky

Here you go

Welcome to TBN!

Yes, but you can buy either the housing bearing assembly (number on casting) OR the bearing insert only. There is a number on the spherical bearing itself.

Yeah, got that. I haven't looked at or done one of these before and I don't see what the shim in that position does. Tapered bearings on the shaft, but the shim is on the outside. Parts book shows the same thing. Also, the book shows the shim and a flat washer under that nut. I don't see the...

Take it to a bearing shop OR look at the bearing number and Google it.

I had a customer with a 4720 that had blown out the bottom spindle plug, but when I replaced, there was no noticeable wear in the hub. Not familiar with the washer you are showing or a different style of hub you are talking about.

They look to be standard on the deck, but the tractor appear to be metric

The link you have is the tool only currently, but here is the link for two XC6.0 5.0Ah batteries and charger...

Right, like I said in an earlier post, they no longer sell them and yes, low demand most likely. Thanks for sharing the drawing. When I make up a set, I will go with thicker material.

Thanks for sharing the skid drawing. The old skids can be used as a pattern, but this is great. And, as you show, it is not critical to use plow bolts as the bolt is just holding the skid in place. At one point, when I could get the skids for a decent price from Flail Master, I used carriage...

And that is California for you!

It is ISO 68 hydraulic oil, which is available in many brands, but under warranty I would stay with John Deere. Here is a deal on Amazon...

Welcome to TBN! I am guessing that you may have your depth setting too low when you go to float. I don't see a manual on the Woods TPR7200, but have a link to a Harley power rake. This is basically the same and may answer your questions...

Again, it is a pain to get it in and out, but removing the injection pump is not necessary. Finger pincher/knuckle buster yes. To get the rear bolt, use a 3" and a 6" 3/8" drive extension to lay in behind the solenoid. At least you don't have to contend with a frame rail that is on the 575D

Flail Master used to sell the skids for a reasonable price, but no more.

Welcome to TBN! The blades are not worth sharpening. Order the the heavy duty FM7 blades from Flail Master. The cut is nice, they are tough and the price is right. Of course you will have to order 66 blades (70 as I think they come in 10 packs). I have a newer 917H, not much different, and I...

Welcome to TBN! I don't mean to sound harsh, but why do you want to take a 755 backhoe (750 series) and replace a 765 series backhoe???? There would be no drawings available from Ford as Ford sold off the tractor division to Fiat in the 90's. It would be a miracle if someone had them.

Well, here is a video that is pretty good on this engine. You will probably need the cork valve cover gasket (C7NN6584B)

Welcome to TBN! I might. I'll check.

Welcome to TBN! Had it been running? When was the last time it ran? You could check the valve adjustment first. 0.014-15" intake, 0.018-19" exhaust

The answer to the replacement is yes, the 5" will work. It is even more cumbersome to install and remove, but it works. Installing it requires you to put the butt end of the starter in first, lower the whole starter down into the starter area. then angle the nose into the bell housing hole.

Well, good luck getting to the 'important ' things.

How goes the battle? Did you find the problem?

A puller on the pulley is the best. Not hard to rebuild. Very similar to a wheel bearing repack.

Okay, so I think then that the holes that the retaining bolts go through a galled the shaft? If so, take a drill larger than the hole and use it to clean up the raised area of the shaft. To pull the shaft, fashion some wedges out of wood or stacks of metal behind the sprocket to help pry the...

I'm missing something, but when you removed the setscrew, did you unscrew the collar from what's left of the bearing's inner race? The collar bites into the shaft to hold the bearing.

ECU Not Detected on CAN bus. Read this post: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/farmall-70a-dtc-3157-resolved.471551/

From your description and pictures, I would say that the bearing is stuck on the shaft. Did you unscrew the set collar, #7, on the bearing?

Not sure why you would use vinegar and why 3 of 4 don't leak. Unless the cylinder has a hole/crack, it should not leak. It also shouldn't move, but it is kept in place by the head.

Messicks is good, but parts are expensive on old Fords. May be easier to make the shafts. https://www.messicks.com/catalogs/new-holland/753-series-backhoe-01-75-07-80

Here you go

Here is the parts picture and descriptions

Welcome to TBN! Put a sleeve over the threads that seats on the shoulder just below the threads. Another way is to thread the nut back onto the shaft, upsidedown if a castle nut, until flush with the end of the spindle. You can still damage the threads this way if you beat on it enough. A...

Welcome to TBN! Here is the diagram of the senders. It is below the oil filter, #2

That is the only thing I can think of that would cause both stabilizers to work together. The bushings in those pivots are nylon-type, but it is possible that the bushing is gone and things are binding. Lubrication will help.

Look at the picture. Top and bottom pivots

Most likely one like this. HELLA 8EA 015 642-651 Démarreur - 12V - 3kW - pour p.e. PERKINS Amazon.fr Most starters I've seen for this engine are not gear reduction type

Being that the controls operate on a pivot rod and the bellcranks for the controls operate on another rod, I would look at the pivots for the stablizer controls at those two places. Look for the control and bellcrank pivoting on the shaft rather than the shaft pivoting with the movement of the...

A stump jumper will cut down on shearbolt replacement, but is not necessary, just a nice option.

Sticking together? So if you operate the right stabilizer, the left will move too? The levers are located on opposite sides of the controls and the valve. Just trying to figure out how this is happening.

Wow, that was fast shipping!

Thanks to @eKretz for coming up with a simple, inexpensive solution to save an otherwise dead tractor.

Agree with the Flail Master and the F7 blade like the Ford 907/917

Hi Gary, You can govto Messicks, TC40, Transmission section, 4wd dropbox, pictured here. New Holland TC40 - 4 CYL COMPACT TRACTOR(01/98 - 12/05) Parts Diagrams If you can wiggle the shaft, you have a bearing going out. Drain the oil, disconnect the 4wd driveshaft and drop the dropbox.

Yup, fusible link or fuse is usually the culprit.

Do you have any other PTO implements to see if it will make a similar noise? Or, when pushing a heavy load with the loader does it make noise? Without isolaing an area for the noise, I would guess that it is probably in the rear PTO drivetrain like a bearing. Could it also be possible it is the...

On the starter, you have a small, flat terminal covered with an insulator. Remove that wire and jumper from the large post on the starter or from the + post on the battery to that terminal to see if the starter will turn over. Make sure tractor is in neutral. When everything is in neutral and...

Welcome to TBN! Can you start or turn over the engine at the starter by bypassing everything?

Welcome to TBN! I do not know the tractor, but you may look at the top, main post of the starter for a loose connection or a fusible link that moght have melted. Alternately, you can follow those wires off of that post to see if there may be a main fuse inline to the fuse box.

Welcome to TBN! Look at this page, is this what you are looking for?

I believe that the 4WD is the same on the SLE with the solenoid being on the transfer box. Power to the solenoid turns the 4WD off, no power turns it on. I think, but not sure, that the dash only displays the gearing, but doesn't have anything to do with the powershift. Of course, if you want to...

Yanmar engine? Does it not turn over or does it turn over and not fire?

What model do you have? 4WD controllers on Fords usually controlled auto 4WD. When the controller is not working the 4WD is engaged all the time.

Go to Napa and have a hose made to your needs

The red wire can be run to the + on the battery or, better yet, the top, big post of the starter. Install a 15 amp fuse inline if one isn't supplied. Watch this video to get some ideas on the box mount and wiring:

I have to apologize. I looked for it and realized I had sold the manual.

Welcome to TBN! Most likely the pin siezed in the end of the cylinder. Heat the pin and let cool

I will look later today for the TV6070 service manual, earlier version of the TV145

Well, if it came from a golf course, it probably was abused or little maintenance was performed on it and engine work needed. Nice looking whatever way you look at it. Knowing it is a 231 is helpful if you ever have to replace an axle half or spindle, but beyond that, it really is a high...

Look at the parts book detail on the cylinders. It shows a measurement from the from the supply tube to the end of the cylinder to determine which cylinder you have. 13mm = SBA344951810 = SBA344960206 KIT 28mm = SBA344952581 = SBA344960440 KIT 28mm = SBA344952610 = SBA344960440 KIT...

The thing that made/makes it a 231 rather than anything else was that it should have a shorter spindle. From your profile picture, that looks to be true. It was sold as an LCG, Low Center of Gravity tractor-industrial. Similar to a turf tractor designation. Ford had a plethora of model offerings...

The rod bearing is the problem, but if you are using the old bearing in the same spot, you may be simply overtorqueing the bearing. Make sure you have plenty of lube on the beatmrings and the bearing is properly seated. Torque should be 85.417 newton metres/63 ft. lb. or, if you don't have a...

Most tractors of this period have had an overhaul at some point. The D designation in the serial number indicates that the engine was either swapped for a new 201 cid BSG engine or a reman engine installed, so the old carb would have been more correct for the engine size. I was thinking of...

What is wrong with the new carburetor and what was wrong with the old carburetor?

Welcome to TBN! The engine would have a serial number on the RH bottom of the block stamped just above the oil pan with a C to indicate it has a 192 cid engine for a 3600 or 231. The casting number just indicates that is the block of the period. It coukd have been a BSG332 or 333. With that...

A long bar tobturn the engine over is not real normal, but it does take some effort. You oiled the cylinders and bearings when you put it back together? Following is armature testing: http://www.gozuk.com/blog/dc-motor-armature-testing-859984.html

It is missing the plug/dipstick. Here it is:

Welcome to TBN! You might reach out to Gandy themselves: https://gandy.net/collections/parts

Welcome to TBN! Not sure, but may have to bleed the pilot line for the swing valve or the swing line itself, although most cylinder circuits will bleed themselves

Good news. Have you removed your old one to see what it looks like?

8x8s should all be the same. Nice to have a workaround

Welcome to TBN! Find the engine model, tell us what kind of transmission you have and take more pictures of thevoverall tractor.

Is the valve you are using for the loader on the loader? If so, you may want to temove the valve spool cap at the end of the loader valve and see if there is something binding the spool in the cap.

Right, I had the wrong description (deleted post) for a 1715. The relays are flasher and safety (neutral start) relays. No timer. It does have the old style glow plug circuit and is very straight forward. Ignition to glow plug coil to glow plugs.

Same here, I have a Ford 550 that I store in a metal hangar with a dirt floor. I lower the boom coming in, then raise it up, umcurl the bucket swing to one side and drop it thr bucket teeth into the dirt. I raise and block the loader to get it in further. It is an open door shelter, but I have...

Yes, they should fit your tractor. The tractors were built in Japan, mounted on a skid or metal pallet, less the wheels and partially broken down to ship.

Looks like the coolant system drain. The left hose is pretty hefty though. Where does it go, to the block?

All 1210s were built in Japan and distributed via skid. There were variations in Europe, that is why I asked. Yes, Ebay has a great international shipping system and the seller should sell to Malaysia.

According to your unit/date code, 6M01B, yours was built in Dec 1986. Does yours have a 2 speed, 540/750 rpm PTO? I am asking as they made models for the US market and European market. That is one thing that is different. Was this tractor sold in Malaysia originally?

Rabet, pretty sure this is what you need if yours is bad: https://www.ebay.com/itm/326404596525?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=bG-xdxcuQEi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=V7KhAEDrRbW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Curious, how do you get your internet?

Love Tuscany. Thanks for sharing and welcome to TBN!

When the piston is at the top of the cylinder, it is at top dead center (TDC) 1 and 4, TDC, bancer weights will be down. 2 and 3 TDC, balancer weights will be down. Balancer shaft turns two times to every one turn of crankshaft.

I always say that hydraulic oil is like blood; a little makes a big mess!

A banjo bolt is essentially a hollow bolt with a hole drilled across the diameter to allow oil flow through it. Copper crush washers, typically, seal either side of the banjo. Nicks in the sealing surface of the banjo or bolt will allow oil to leak and the washer can't seal. The bolt can be...

This manual might answer your questions: https://www.ebay.com/itm/256858749410?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=q1rV0fF1RyK&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=V7KhAEDrRbW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

The side with the shaft sticking out has a seal on it. Pry the seal out and you will probably see a c-clip and the bearing(s) The coupler on the other end is either welded or held on with a set screw to the shaft.

First off, last 7308s sold were in 2004. You can look aftermarket/other brand loader or buy a used loader from someone like...

No gasket between the housings. Originally used sealant when bolted together. If all the other bolts are tight, then chances are it will keep seeping. The tractor would have to be split there, sealant applied and the halves bolted back. Clean that area up with parts cleaner or starting fluid...

Agree with @Farmer495. The clutch isn't disengaging and being that it is a synchro shuttle, the synchro is not able to get into gear easily.

Unless you really rammed it, which, it sounds like you did, the relief should have taken the shock.

Inside micrometer...

Great example

Hard to say from the picture, but I think that is just an alternate inlet port. As far as the loader goes, if switching the hoses resulted in the loader lift doing the same thing, then the lift cylinders are your problem, not your valve.

Nice write up and great job. Using the loader pins as a holding device to disassemble the cylinder is a method I employ often in the field. As far as purging the air, cycling the cylinders after you assemble will purge tge air without wasting oil.

Welcome to TBN! Hard to tell anything from your pictures as they are very close up. You can test the pump by putting a gauge on the outlet of the pump only. This essentially deadheading the pump. DO NOT START THE TRACTOR. Crank over the engine to get a pressure reading. Guessing you should see...

Being that the 1210 (and other models) has a transmission PTO, it has an internal overrunning clutch. I wasn't aware of this until this post, but it does exist.

Rabet, if you were in the states, I would recommend a salvage yard, but you’re not. My advice is take it apart and see who made the bearing. Maybe it is salvageable. The 1210 is a different setup and bearing than the 1215/1220, but those bearings are not available from New Holland.

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/threads/balancer-timing.1438340/

So yes, that is a 1215. The 1210 manual shows the overrunning clutch in the rear transmission/rear end. It may be like the 1215 or part of the PTO engagement coupler. Not clear. It appears to be part of the coupler

Welcome to TBN! Interesting to hear. Not connected to a feedlot, but interesting to hear that someone is looking at efficiency.

Welcome from California! Seems a little expensive, but it all depends on hours and condition. Parrs availability is okay, but they are pricey. Good tractor and mower for sure.

Yes, it would have to be timed. I looked that tractor up a while back and it is supposed to have a Perkins 3 cylinder 3.152 or 2.5 liter engine, which I didn't think it had a balancer. Can you verify?

CMs were Shibaura built, different system.

I read your post again and saw you have a backhoe on this tractor. There is an ID plate on the control tower or the LH side of the backhoe frame with the 'True' model. It will be a 19-*** number. In general, it is a 765 model, 10, 12 or 14'. The true model will tell you length, but you can also...

Welcome to TBN! If I remember, I believe the fuses are on the RH engine compartment, but I would have to look in the book tomorrow

Welcome to TBN! Are you talking about the PTO seal? If so, drain the oil in the rear end, remove plate #26 and remove seal #30. Install a new seal and bolt up plate. Fill with oil.

Welcome to TBN! The unit number is the date code. 3 = 1983 C = Feb BO = ? Should be a date B = day shift The BO doesn’t make sense, but you have what you need. KD4 = 445A 1 = Diesel, vertical exhaust 1 = No PTO F = 4x4 Power reversing, Torque converter synchro Great model

Yes, you should be able to depress the ball with your thumb if just out of the box.

The overrunning clutch is located in the rear end. It is #32 and #29, that Ford calls a countershaft. 2nd and 3rd pictures are the clutch. #4 is the countershaft/clutch hub Quite expensive components. You could add an external overrunning clutch.

Cotter pins in bell housings keep the drain hole in the housing from gumming up with oil and debris.

The rings actually look okay. Remove them and the wrist pin from the piston. Clean everything really, really good. Get the rust and crud off of everything. Bearings look fine. You can reuse. Hone out the cylinders, clean everything, cylinders, block, pistons, oil pan, everything that has rust...

Welcome to TBN! Did you install the power beyond kit you bought? I see I didn't attach the parts picture

Welcome to TBN! Sounds to me like your spin-on filter or suction screen is still clogged.

Welcome to TBN! Pretty sure that is spring #37 in the illustration, called a restrictor connector. I don't remember the purpose of it though. Your hydraulics may have a suction air leak on the large metal line going into the pump over the bell housing. The line is just stabbed into the pump...

Welcome to TBN! A little more information would help. Creeper is on the range lever. Can you move the range lever to B¹, B² or C? The engine stop light is on or Hand Brake light? Picture?

Doing a search resulted in this: https://www.amerequip.com/100-years-of-amerequip/our-history.html Schwartz loaders were on Ford tractors for a long time. Their part number prefix was SML. Your loader on your tractor is probably a Schwartz/SML

I used to be a dealer, but if you look at the parts book for a 756B you will find the part number prefix is ARP, meaning ARPS, now Ameriquip, made the backhoe for Ford. I don't know which model ARPS or Deere it was though, but could be figured out by looking at the smallest backhoe models...

ARPS (Amerequip) built thr backhoe for Ford. They also made there ARPS brand and Deere backhoes

Most likely it is a solenoid valve.

The hone you show would work, but takes a little bit of skill to not change the cylinder shape. A ball hone, like @jigs_n_fixtures suggested is preferred to remove the rust and crud (red). It also will put back the crisscross hone that the cylinder originally had and eliminate or lessen the...

Ouch! That is horrible! Lot's of rust, no lubrication! That engine might be salvageable, but...... You Definitely!, but need to pull pistons and do a proper job.

Same "custom" tool for installing pre 1984 torque converters too.

Out west too. Hadn't noticed his handle

I believe TM1623 is what you want as it is the repair manual without the diagnostics, about US$260. TM1972 is the diagnostics only manual.

Hopefully this is helpful: https://techpubs.deere.com/en-US/Search/Equipment

Very hard to advise from here. If the engine has been sitting that long that the engine is that gummed up, you could have rust in the cylinders, the starter may be just marginal and needs rebuilding, you may have put too much diesel in the cylinders that when you put the injectors in, the...

That is a waterproof driveline, maybe a rice tractor. The parts book shows a roll/split pin, which it could be, in the front coupler. Cut the wire and see if it unscrews or drive it out.

Just looking through an old Howard book. The Rotocadet, J and HN used J blades