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I've never worked on the red versions, but have seen a few of the blue ones some years back. I don't recall any "known common" problems with any of them. No offense, but even someone "up to speed" on the system would have a hard time providing any answers for you with so little information...

That looks like as good a choice as any.

That is simply a diverter valve, not a control valve. It has only one supply and one return so flow will only be in one direction. You will need to run that flow through a separate valve to change directions.

You unplugged the quick connects, started the tractor with nothing connected? You didn't turn the spool in the diverter valve before starting the engine? If so, the three point won't work but the system relief valve will get a workout.

You saw smoke and vapor out of the breather while cranking? If that's the case, added to the "no start", it's a bad sign. I'd pull the hose off the intake manifold and look closely for signs of dirt ingestion. A compression test would confirm your suspicions, but it probably isn't necessary...

A 4WD tractor w/loader for that price is going to have problems somewhere, and it looks like you found one already. I'm ASSUMING here that you bought this long distance and never heard it run? If it's a gear drive tractor you might have better luck tow starting it considering the circumstances...

If you have a Workmaster 60, it's a whole different system than the Workmaster 55. I can understand your frustration with it. All of the newer (2015 and up) Workmasters are a POS from bumper to drawbar.

I'm a firm believer in "simpler is better". That tractor is at least ten times less complicated than anything sold today. 320 hours (if that's accurate) is as close to new as you can get with a used tractor. Even if you could find something similar new for that price, you're still better off...

I won't say I blame you. I was never overly impressed with Mahindra over all, and not just that model. I was with a dealership that had Mahindra as one of their tractor lines when the 35 series was first sold new. There were a few problems with the Nimco valves that were commonly used on...

You mentioned "both filters". Is one of those the water separator under the right side ladder? I've found numerous problems with those and have eliminated many of them because of air leaks into the system. That said, another common problem is the inlet fitting on that filter. The banjo fitting...

I'm not suggesting the couplers aren't properly connected, I'm saying one of them could be bad internally, and only allowing flow in one direction. I've seen that before, and have replaced a few because of it.

Does your setup have quick couplers between the loader valve and the lines leading to and from the loader cylinders? Your symptoms could well be caused by a coupler that's not fully open to flow in both directions. Not a given, but possible.

Well I must admit you've had more than your fair share of failures with that hub. I've been through a number of them and have never had repeat failures to that degree. A few problems where I didn't get the nut tight enough, but none resulted in any gear failures. In the case of the photos just...

A "little wiggle in the hub" is no good. You can't run it that way or you risk more damage. Are those photos from the first failure or the current situation?

You asked for opinions. You have three already suggesting you stay away from it, (four now actually) but it sounds like you really don't want them. Remember, there is no free lunch, but if you're all that intrigued by it, then by all means, go for it. You might make a big score.

When I do it I split the tractor between the transmission and rear housing. I don't think it comes out the top.

I'm not seeing where the nut not being tight enough can cause the gear failure. I've been into a number of units where worn or failing bearings were loose enough to take out the seal, with the hub moving from side to side, and the gears weren't damaged. I've seen some damaged gear sets, yes, but...

Whatever his problem was, I doubt it was timing. If he didn't lose any shims the timing wouldn't change whether he turned the motor while the pump was out or not.

Funny, but that was my first thought as well when I read the first post.

I'm not sure where you're getting a TN40. Maybe you're thinking of a TC40? That would make more sense.

In my opinion (for what that's worth) you didn't get the nut near tight enough. Okay, that said, here's what I do. When I did the first one (many years ago) I made a socket to fit the nut. I took the nut off with a hammer and punch, basically beating the snot out of it and rendering it pretty...

That would be the PTO plate adjustment. I would start by measuring the gap (with a feeler gauge) between the end of the bolt and the plate it contacts when the pedal is depressed. Your manuals, one of them at least, should have that dimension. Again, probably between .060 and .090 or some metric...

Looking at the parts list I don't see which "bolts" you're referring to. What I see is three lever assemblies with pins, washers, etc, and each has two adjustment nuts. Three bolts and nuts for the PTO adjustment, and six bolts holding the assembly to the flywheel. The assembly of the three...

For openers, I'm seeing a number of different front axle hubs and gears listed in parts, depending on tractor age/version/serial number and all that. Which one fits your tractor? A quick glance at parts lists didn't bring me to any of the numbers you listed other than the main seal, but I was...

No matter what happens with the drive shaft, when one tire turns the other should turn in the opposite direction. Since that's not happening the driveshaft is not part of the problem. You need to dig deeper.

Which one won't release? You took measurements before disassembling. What did you measure? The PTO adjustment bolts appear to be similar to most other dual clutches, and are adjusted evenly with a feeler gauge. Typically to somewhere between .060 and ,090 inch. The three levers usually aren't...

I've replaced more clutches than I care to count, and for most of them I had no specs at all. I guess I've never found it necessary. What are your concerns regarding said "specs"? What all did you replace, and why do you feel you need specs? If they're not found in the manuals, how would...

I'm not sure what good that would do. I would just empty the water out of the tank. Empty out the filter and all supply lines and blow them dry.. Drain and blow out as much as possible of what's in the pump head and related passages. Loosen the injector lines at the injectors. Start with good...

28 years old? So is the tractor, but you plan on using that don't you?

There's the right answer. Don't worry about adding a filter. More trouble than it's worth, and will be of little or no real help.

You don't need the dual pump package to handle a rake or a tedder. There are many choices out there for replacement valve kits that will fit those tractors. You can also find many single or multi spool monoblock valves with float position that you can mount on a fender and plumb yourself. More...

I read somewhere that the 135 is one of the most sought after tractors around. There are lots of pluses for the old girl. The drive train has twice the beef of most new tractors even fifty hp or more. OEM, aftermarket, and used parts are always available. With many of the new tractors sold today...

The 1210 alternator is externally regulated. Do yourself a favor, do a little trouble shooting. It could be the regulator as well as anything. If it does turn out to need an alternator, don't start looking for a way to mount a one wire. There are plenty of replacements available in the $100 range.

If your 135 doe the job for you, keep it and save your money. ANYTHING you buy new will be more trouble down the the road than that 135 will ever be. At least when something goes wrong with it you can find someone who knows how to fix it. With the new stuff it just doesn't work that way..

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/79074/referrer/navigation/pgId/11513357 Item #8

You don't need to fool with the axle. The seal you're after is under the drum. You need to get the drum off to access the seal. That part can be a challenge.

As I understand it the Fermec line was formed partially on Massey backhoe and skid steer lines. That would lead me to believe the three point could well be mostly based on what Massey used in so many of their tractors for years. If you can confirm that with some photos of the lift portion and...

Your choice here. You can try to anchor the wires better so it's harder for stuff to snag it, make some sort of protective cover or guard, or simply stay out of the "thick stuff". Unfortunately most of these tractors really aren't built for what many people put them through. Wires, hoses, steel...

Look for the wire to the PTO solenoid valve to have pulled loose while out in your "thick stuff". Valve is under the right side floor plate area. Square looking block with a solenoid coil on one side.

I don't think there is a suction screen on that tractor. Just a single filter ahead of each pump. The loader is operated from the tractor's remote valves with no dedicated loader valve I assume? Does the jerky motion apply to the three point as well? That operates strictly from the internal...

I'd say chances are it failed more from age than from hours of use. Some seals can survive for many years but none are guaranteed to do so. Having never seen a weep hole on one of those pumps I rather doubt there is one. I'd pay close attention to the oil level and consistency.

I didn't say charge it. I said replace it.

If that's the case, the cables don't make much difference. I think you need to revisit the battery. Do you have another one you can stick in and try it?

Which "hot post"? the battery or the starter? If you jump at the starter then either cable is suspect.

Well as I see it on the diagram I'm looking at the start relay is grounded through all the safety circuits. The relay has a four pin connector with a black and white, a black and red, a white and black, and a yellow and black. The white and black is the ground wire. I would try skinning back...

That indicates a possible problem with your existing ground cable. By jumping the negative cable to the frame you bypass the ground cable and it starts.

The wiring diagram I saw doesn't show a dedicated safety controller. It's mainly a series of switches, relays, and a seat safety switch timer. (whatever that is)

I'm sure it was answered, but it obviously wasn't reported here. I, for one, can't make out any leaks in his photos, maybe you can. If you have "the exact same problem" maybe you can explain what it is? If it's a fuel leak "on" the pump itself, your best bet is to plan on removing the pump and...

Check your PM inbox

How dedicated are you to factory OEM wiring/components with all safeties in effect? If that's a priority for you I will respectfully butt out. I tend to work around certain items I disagree with in order to simplify things but still get the job done. I find that many times people just want the...

In cases like this details matter. I wonder just how are you jumping this thing that works for you? Simply clamping jumper cables onto the existing battery posts with original cable ends still installed? In effect the power from the jumper source is still traveling through the tractor's battery...

On the left rear corner of the three point lift housing. Should be a fitting there with a plastic plug screwed into it.

Post some photos of what you have. If anyone can make any sense of your description they're far smarter than I am. Could be your best bet might be to just invest in a new loader valve and be done with it.

I can't help wondering why you have that question? I can't imagine why it would be aluminum.

Did your problem come on every twenty minutes like clockwork? Go away after stopping the engine, restarting, then return again after twenty minutes? Most fuel line and/or supply problems don't quite follow that pattern.

It's not just smaller tractors, the larger ones are in the same boat. It's not the size that matters, it's the overall concept. Too many signals, too many switches/sensors, far too much wiring, an over rated, over priced computer, and no answers for anything. It happens many times every day, no...

You see, this sort of thing is what drives me crazy about the state of tractor engineering today. Unsuspecting individuals go looking for a tractor. The common prevailing thought is "new is always better". Buy something new and you're trouble free for a long time. Maybe so at one time, but not...

I'd be looking for a tractor that doesn't need all that crap.

Only 42 hrs since new, or 42 hrs since you added the loader? If it's new you should be crying warranty. Let the dealer sort it out, or you will be on the hook for it forever.

I would simply take the other one out, use it as a sample, and look for a bolt and nut the same size. It's probably m10 or m12, and most likely 1.25 thread pitch.

Get a bigger pump. Why are you limited to 20 GPM?

An awfully complicated arrangement for little gain in my opinion. While combining the pressure sides might be possible, splitting the return would be even more complicated. If it were my project I would more likely just go with the a larger PTO pump and keep it simple.

The bolt and jam nut are for centering the brake band. You don't want to simply seal up the hole. Oil leaking there indicates a seal leaking between the axle shaft and differential housing. Did you not notice the other holes with cotter pins dangling? You have dry brakes operating in those...

They are indeed low pressure. Almost nothing in fact. One goes to the shaft seal area case drain on the front of the hydraulic pump. the other goes along the top of the engine to a fitting on right front corner of the transmission shift cover. Rarely is there ever enough pressure to cause a leak...

It won't be the steering box. If everything up front were functioning you could steer it both ways from the front without touching the steering wheel. With a new pump and the linkage working properly, about the only thing left is piston seals in the steering cylinder.

While that is probably a good way to proceed, I would caution you to study the system before disconnecting ANYTHING. You have a pressure out, pressure in, and sump return line there. The two pressure lines MUST be somehow connected in a loop when the loader valve is out of the system or you...

https://www.magisterhyd.com/hydraulics-shop/product-category/hydraulic-cylinders/loader-hydraulic-cylinders/ I've had good luck ordering replacement cylinders from these people. Find a size that best matches what you have and order a pair. You may need to adapt the plumbing, but it's usually...

Like most mechanical lift pumps it works off a cam lobe so rotation must be in the right spot or the manual lever won't produce much. If in doubt try bumping the engine over a few times while working the lever.

Oil dipstick blew out? That would more likely be high crankcase pressure than high oil pressure. I think you may be looking in the wrong direction. Look for a crankcase breather, vent or filter that might be restricted.

Where you need to start is with the linkage. As I stated earlier, the linkage has to move the control valve spool in order for the power portion to operate. Enlist a helper if need be to turn the steering wheel back and forth while you watch the linkage. You can do it by yourself but sometimes...

That wouldn't be my choice. I've put as many as three of those on one tractor. Not one lasted for an hour. What I use is this. I have one or two on hand all the time...

Injection pump is the LAST item on the list. It never had a lift pump. The engineers decided to let the injection pump pull fuel from the tank through the filters. Wasn't a great idea then, and even less so now. Change out the hoses first. You need to do that anyway. I've added electric fuel...

Wow! And you didn't see that before you took it apart?

Actually, there is no feed pump. If it had one this problem might not be there. Sometimes the addition of an electric pump can be quite helpful.

If the tractor still has the factory fuel lines, I would suggest you start right there. The lines were nothing but problems since the tractors were new. If it still has the braided steel covered hoses, I would carefully cut the crimp sleeves, peel them off and remove the hoses. Replace them all...

Were there any shims or washers under the switches? If so it's best to keep them in the same place they came from. They can be involved in positioning of the status switch signal to computer monitors.

No, not the pump. The line will separate on the end of the steel portion.

If it's the hose in your photo, it's not mean to come apart. You replace hose, line,and all as a unit.

Look for a friction stop adjustment. There's probably a nut you can tighten to increase tension on the lever.

Probably not a lot of "experts" on that tractor out here. If you post a few photos of what you're looking at in there someone may offer some ideas.

It's quite possible the old pump wasn't a large part of the problem to begin with. More likely it's mostly a wear and adjustment issue with the shafts, pins, bushings and related linkage int the steering mechanism. You can remove the grill, start the engine and do some "self tests" with the...

I can see a few possibilities. How was the steering BEFORE the pump was replaced? Was it pretty much the same as now? Maybe the pump wasn't the problem. The steering mechanism on that tractor has multiple wear points that can affect steering performance. Most all of that is in front of the...

There are two open center pumps involved. They are combined into one flow for the closed center valves on demand. Flow from either pump can be diverted for other functions (sort of power beyond I guess) if done so upstream of the combining valve. I've seen (and done) that a few times using one...

So it's a new steering pump. It wouldn't be the first time that a "new" replacement part didn't live up to expectations. What sort of warranty came with the purchase?

So far it seems those in favor of such a feature slightly out number those opposed. I have to wonder why anyone would oppose it to begin with? There must be hundreds of features on this site that a great many members don't use or even know about. This would so just be one more. It wouldn't...

Maybe some others who agree will step and say so too. I can't see how the feature would create any loss to the community. We're just skipping over threads we wouldn't read or participate in anyway.

Too bad. It might be more popular than you think.

Actually, I'm hoping to get a response from someone in administration as to whether or not it's possible. Maybe it's not.

I'm not sure just what that means. I don't click on the threads, I just get tired of scrolling past them over and over.

Thanks, but that's not the solution I was hoping for,

I understand it's possible to "ignore" certain members' posts if one chooses. Is there a way to do the same with selected threads as well. There are some that I would like to ignore if at all possible. Some that seem to go on and on forever, with hundreds of replies, pages and pages of them...

Don't forget about the flow control on the back of the remote valve. (assuming it works) I would set it at minimum for openers, see how the unit works and adjust up if need be.

I think it's safe to say the unit is no good. I would suggest you shop for a replacement. Then again, depending on cost of said item, I might also consider mounting a choke or other control cable and just using that instead of the electric shut off. That was the standard for the industry for...

I don't think he really knows just WHAT he has. He's thinking closed center because that's the nomenclature that was used with the Ford "deluxe" remote valve. It's actually the same dual pump system Ford had used on a number of models during that era. It's two open center systems combined...

You might consider a Tisco HV5902 valve block. That will give you direct flow from the tractor's internal pump and about 8 GPM. Assuming that would be sufficient for your laser system? Using the current remote valve tied back will work but that's forcing twice as much flow through the system...

The power steering is supplied from an engine mounted pump, totally separate from the lift and auxiliary pump. It has it's own reservoir and shares nothing with the hydraulic system. My starting point would be draining the transmission/rear end, removing and cleaning the suction screen on the...

You can go about it any way you choose, but I think most people would do it with the cylinder on the machine. I do at least. I think in most cases it's less work to do it that way than to try and remove the whole cylinder. Sometimes if it doesn't come apart easily I will jack it up and take off...

As I see it you have a few different choices. You can continue to fool with it until you get it right. You can pull it off, take it to a shop and pay someone to fix it. You can give up on it, pull it off, and replace it with another valve. It doesn't have to be another identical unit. Many many...

If your tractor has standard hydraulics it should look something like this. If you have item #48 in this diagram then you don't need any adapter plate. You already have what's required. All you need is a proper valve and some plumbing.

Some better details might get you some better answers. "Not working" doesn't help much on the diagnosis front.

I probably can't do much from here, but what sort of help are you hoping for? Is it a double shaft style cylinder with a ball joint on each side or just a single cylinder on one side. Parts book shows both types.

https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/newhollandag/na/tractors/compact/naba17com0543cyl/3-cyl-compact-tractor/hydraulic-systems/lift-cover-arms-1710/cn/706C1CCB-B8BF-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6/71EE724F-E6BE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6 The seal is available for $42. You can try an O ring and if there's room...

And you need this adapter because...?

Not telling you what to do here, it's a matter of choice and fittings, but I think you would be better served to tee in the gauge ahead of the loader valve rather than after it. You can actually operate the tractor doing things and test more functions that way.

https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/005/9/4/5946-ford-5030.html If this is what you have, it has no glow plugs or glow plug lights. Misinformation there. It MAY have a thermostart, as many Ford's were so equipped. If it has that feature, there will (or there was if someone installed an...

You do realize that proves nothing in regards to condition or operation of the clutch. If the clutch isn't driving you can shift smoothly all day and the tractor still won't move.

More likely an electronic issue. Power shuttle tractor, right? It COULD be a status switch or circuit related to to low range. Just guessing there. Best option is to go looking for error codes. New Holland software can retrieve stored codes. That might help narrow it down.

The term "free up" is a bit confusing in this case. Is this a situation where the lift arms are stuck in one position where they are down and won't go up? Up but won't go down? Explain the situation a little better and you might get some help.

Your SURE the clutch isn't the problem?

By the looks of that valve there's a good chance you could get something put in wrong. It's certainly not the simple two spool loader type valve we commonly see. I can't tell much about it from the single view but I don't see anything familiar about it. Maybe one of the smarter guys here will...

Post some photos of your valve, the three hoses involved, and explain where on the tractor each hose goes. Pictures from multiple angles will help identify what you need to know.

I suspect there's also a circuit in the PTO switch that interrupts the start circuit. Have you been there yet?

And that made the tractor not start?

My take as well. I finally got the photos large enough to read the print and concluded the internal plug inside port A must be part (or most) of the problem. That would be the next place I would look.

"You know where to look?" Actually no you don't, because if you did you wouldn't be here asking about it. What you need to do is take (and post) some photos of your loader valve from different angles so we can see what you see. Show us where the oil flow comes from, where it enters the loader...

I believe you will find that gas and diesel engines in the 3000 share a lot of common parts. Mounting the shaft is no ten minute job. mind you, but it should work. You will probably want to remove the radiator and shell in order to better access the front pulley, clean out the boltholes, etc. I...

I'm not familiar with common rail Kubota engines, but think the hydraulic pump drives off the back of the fuel camshaft and mounts on the right side, so I doubt the pump has any part in the leak.

Well it looks like it should work. At least the concept is correct. Your loader valve looks good as well, and yes some do use a plug threaded into an internal port to convert to power beyond. That seems simple enough.

You lost me part way back. You made your own sandwich plate but you don't know which holes are which? If that's the case how could you know which ports in the block to connect to connect with internal passages? I think your game plan was missing a few pages at the outset here. Maybe you can post...

It's power beyond CAPABLE, but you need to order the sleeve separately. Did you do that?

No way to know what seal (if any) is the culprit, but you can narrow it down by determining whether it's engine oil or hydraulic fluid. That shouldn't be too hard.

Are you keeping those temperatures and pressures secret?

I've been told a lot things too, but the 5103 is at least fifteen years old. Tier IV hadn't been invented yet.

Been sitting a few years? You have fuel TO the pump (you're sure about that?) and the solenoid clicks with a jumper wire. Loosen at least one injector line on the back of the pump and crank it a few times. If nothing shows up you probably have internal pump problems that will require qualified...

A 5103 with a computer controlled fuel system? When did that happen?

I got much the same impression from the original post, but details as sketchy as this aren't much to go on. Maybe we'll find out someday what his problem was.

You lost me on that. If the engine starts and runs, he can put it in gear and the engine stalls when he lets the clutch out, then why would you pull the starter and/or go looking for a possible stuck clutch issue?

When in neutral and you slide the shift lever from side to side does it move from the first-second gear position to the third-fourth gear position? The external pivot joint on that transmission is the most common shifting problem. Item 2 seizes on item 5. Then the lever won't let you change from...

Well my friend, good like finding a filter that will do what you're hoping for. Maybe someone has some answers for you.

Once you have water/oil mix like you're experiencing, it doesn't separate as easily as it does in diesel. Somehow I doubt there is a filter out there that's reasonably (or even unreasonably) priced that will do what you ask. I don't know that for a fact so will withhold judgement on that. I...

Your tractor has trailer brakes? Where do you live, or where did that tractor come from? I see trailer brake components listed in parts books and service manuals frequently but have yet to find a tractor so equipped. As for the electrical (non) functions, the fuses may be good but is there...

Many many tractors use a reservoir with gravity feed to supply a thermostart. If yours doesn't work you need to explain what you used and how you put it all together. Done correctly, no reason for it not to work.

To start with there should be a separate fuse box for the cab circuits. On the right side cab post between the door glass and the side window at about eye level when in the seat. Not very big, and it has a plastic cover that snaps off. Also be aware that there is no single wiring diagram for...

Do you also see the leak is the body seal, nothing to do with the shaft seal? It's really doing you no harm (yet). Just keep and eye on the steering oil level until you have time to deal with it.

What you pictured is not a shaft seal leak, and that's not your hydraulic pump. It's the steering pump. Whatever you do with the hydraulics (other than steering) won't influence that leak at all...

I don't mean to offend, but I think you should take another look at the pump. Maybe clean it off a little better and look again in better lighting. I don't see any way hydraulic oil can leak from between the pump mounting flange and the timing cover. There is no hydraulic oil at that point...

I would say a bad starter is an excellent possibility. These days of aftermarket (cheap and plentiful) replacement electrical parts, especially starters, not many make it to the one year warranty mark.

What drive gear, and why does it need replacing? Half the gears in that tractor are drive gears.

I never left the flip phone. I've been told a dozen times or more "you need a smart phone". I don't think so. I've tried manipulating other people's smart phones and just don't like them. Too slippery for me, and I can't seem to hold one without touching a button somewhere that messes things up...

Again, if you can turn the cylinder head (some call it a gland) with a pipe wrench or large channel locks, you should see the lock ring move in the small window. USUALLY the end of the ring is right in the window, but not always. Once the end is in view, reach in with a pick or some small sharp...

You don't know the lock ring is a problem unless you try. If you can get it apart with the barrel still in place you can save some time and $$ doing it yourself. It's not that hard. Look in the hole on side for the end of the lock ring. If it's right there and you can move it a little by turning...

"This guy" has shot down everything because he is well aware (as I'm sure you soon will be) that what you hope to do here simply won't work. Your tractor is no match for your implement. You should consider a larger tractor to match the implement, or a smaller implement to match your tractor.

I would find something to fit over the lever (with the linkage off) and try to horse it back and forth. If it's stuck in the bores, you might be able to work it loose that way using penetrating oil from both sides, a lot of elbow grease, and patience.

I think it's time to disassemble the left cylinder. To me that's the obvious next step here. Something between the rod and the piston needs attention.

It could be the wire FROM the charge light is finding a ground somewhere other than the alternator. If I suspect that I will disconnect the pigtail from the alternator, turn the key on and see if the light is still on or not.

Does the pedal move at all? As in will it go down far enough to establish that there is free play? If not, I would start by removing the clevis pin down on the bottom of the linkage rod where it connects to the arm that rotates the shaft through the clutch housing. In fact I would probably...

There should be nothing to bleed on that tractor. It's a strictly mechanical clutch. Are you saying the pedal won't go down, or maybe it goes down but the clutch doesn't release so you can shift gears?

Thanks. Both are interesting ideas.

I too have a Lincoln SP 100. I have no idea how old it is. I traded for it about twenty years ago from a friend who acquired it from an estate sale type thing some years before that and had never actually used it. It had a bad guide tube at the time so I bought a new Radnor gun and guide...

There are pros and cons any way you go. Digital downloads or CD versions of the originals are usually the cheapest. They can be a pain because you scroll endlessly looking for what you want. Then you find they send you to another page somewhere for the specs you need for the operation you just...

Fuel de-priming? I'm not sure that's a word, but I don't think that's the case here either. Did you change the filter BEFORE or after you attempted to start it this last time? Personally, when given the choice I never change fuel filters on a cold engine. I always start and run it for a few...

I think you've pretty well covered the basics. I do question the part about black smoke while cranking. I must assume it never did that when it was starting better? Typically when attempting to start diesel engines the smoke is grey while cranking. What is your memory on that from past usage?

It must be in the upper right front corner of the timing gear cover. I don't see the drive unit itself listed in the parts book, but item 9 in this diagram is described as gear, tachometer shaft. The drive can't be far away...

Next time you go out there try the air heater again, only this time put your hand on it. Hopefully you can reach it and the key at the same time. With power applied you should feel the area around the heater start to get warm after twenty seconds or so. You know the circuits work but you don't...

https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/newhollandag/na/tractors/compact/naba17com227boomer/compact-tractor-wrops/front-axle-steering/power-steering-pump-hydraulic-pump-ehss/cn/ADDE3CFC-B8BF-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6/4004734F-E6BE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6 New CNH website is not the easiest to negotiate...

Before you get carried away with internal adjustments, look at the clutch pedal linkage. I believe there are two positions on the pedal linkage to switch operation from PTO use on non PTO use. A clevis pin on the linkage can be moved from one hole to another changing the stroke of the pedal. One...

I admit I don't know much about these tractors, but problems such as this do interest me. Enough so that I will often study the situation a little if I can. In this case it looks to me the tractor has two PTO clutch packs. One for main PTO and one for Mid PTO. You've pretty well covered all...

I'd rather have the double lip in that environment.

I assume that you're here looking/asking for opinions? Here's one more. The three spool valve you linked to will work in your application, no doubt. It wouldn't be my choice, but then it's not my tractor or my project. You mentioned earlier about a valve with one float spool. This one has none...

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I'm not familiar with that model, but if it has the Kubota LA950 loader and the associated plumbing, then you should have the hard part done. It would be a simple matter to tie into the existing hydraulics and add whatever valves, couplers, etc you think you might need. There are dozens of...

That part is available from a number of suppliers. Must be a pretty common failure item for there to be that many people selling them. Any sort of leak in that area will allow air into the system. Changing it is a good first step. Unless it's below oil level, I can't see why draining anything...

There is a temporary "bandaid" you might try to get by for a while. I've seen it done many times. First tighten the fan belt. It needs to be tight. Then reach in and pull on the fan blade while pushing in on the belt. It can be rather awkward, but once you get the hang of it you can turn the...

What does it have now? An externally regulated alternator or a generator? Either way, a Delco style one wire will not be an easy fit without a fight. There are numerous conversion kits available that come with MOST of what you need. Sometimes the existing pulley can be made to work on the new...

Your problem may well be a fuel supply problem, but maybe not. Does the injection pump have two solenoids? One on the very top of the pump and another slightly lower and farther back on the pump? If it does, I have some quick tests you might try involving the solenoids.

The last time I was faced with a similar situation it was a seized rod bearing. It was no surprise since the engine had been run with little or no oil in it. Similar symptoms though. The engine stuck, was VERY hard to turn, but did eventually break loose with enough effort, and it was then able...

I think you guys (many anyway) are missing the point. Getting all excited about a (possible?) fuel problem when the engine won't even turn over? In my opinion this engine has bigger problems than a "clogged injector line" and worrying about how to treat the fuel and fuel system is not going to...

I have no idea how remove enough plastic to reach behind and actually grab the switch, but the nut can usually be dealt with using a pair of channel locks. It's on there TIGHT because if it isn't the switch will try to turn in the hole when you go to the start position. If you replace the...

https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/newhollandag/cn/o-ring/p/9861431 This should be the part you're looking for. It fits a long list of models that use that style valve and coupler. It's a teflon sort of material, not easy to manipulate. Probably best not to attempt changing them on a cold day...

The rubber hoses went to a collection bottle at one time. That's long gone I guess. The teo "covered ports" are the valve spool detent housings. Don't mess with them. The leaks where the noses plug into the couplers can most likely be slowed or stopped with new seals in couplers. Can be done...

If it's all hard plumbed and there is no dedicated test port available, I would probably try to remove one of the tilts cylinder hoses, cap/plug the port and deadhead a gauge on the exposed hose end. See what that reads. Put all that back together and do the same on the lift cylinder. You should...

You need to get more parts separated and out on the table.

Not necessarily. Most good quality control valves have load checks that keep trapped oil in the loaded cylinders sealed off from the spools themselves. This is a one way (single acting) spool, so it may or may not have the same checks as the tilt spool, but it probably has something. Both the...

I'm not buying that. If the steering wouldn't hold on that side to the point where the tire and wheel would turn left and right while the steering wheel and tire on the other side had integrity, then something's wrong. You just haven't found it yet.

Single acting cylinders. Anything "bleeding by" will show up as leak with oil all over the ground. There is a system relief somewhere, even if it's not in the two spool valve body. It's not the problem because the the tilt function works. A mismatched cylinder doesn't make much sense either. If...

First guess would be it has a bearing failure on the output shaft, which now is no longer centered in the seal. Possibly ripped the seal to pieces in the process. Could be a result of a balance problem with the drive line for the snow blower? Not a given but should be considered.

My guess is the item labeled knuckle arm (L) is loose on the spindle (or whatever part it's attached to) as in a sheared key, damaged splines, etc. Whatever locates in place.

Assuming the relief valve is working because it comes into play on the tilt circuit right? I think you could deadhead either the lift or tilt circuit into a gauge without fear. I can't think of anything valve related that would cause this problem on only one circuit, but it seems like there...

It seems I've recently read some posts concerning problems with RX power shuttle controllers. I got the impression Kioti hasn't exactly solved all the issues there. You might research that a little if you're considering that version.

The H50 should be capable of lifting 5000 Lbs. A pressure gauge is a logical next step. Without it you're pretty much lost as to what's going on. If possible (and it might not be simple) you would like to put it between the pump and the control valve so you can see the difference between...

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It's just a carriage bolt. If you can't hold it with pliers of some sort through the opening above the plate, I would cut it off. Once the hinge drops down you should be able to go up into the support frame, remove and replace it with another bolt.

Mahindra parts list calls it a hinge assembly. Normally you would simply tighten the nut onto the bolt that supports the front side of it and that clamps it onto the round support. So why doesn't that wotk in your case? Is the bolt out of threads and things are still loose? It's really a pretty...

Next time look for a place to bleed the engine. Looks like at least one plug on the thermostat housing near the temp sensor. Anything you can remove from the area just below the thermostat will let trapped air out and coolant flow into the engine. Never trust a thermostat to self bleed.

Water separator gaskets not sealed would be most likely cause. Does tractor have auxiliary fuel tank? That makes drawing fuel all the way up to the water separator all the more difficult.

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If you're happy with what you got for what it cost, that's all that counts.

If this is a typical right angle gearbox, an inch from top is too much. It should be closer to half full. That's where most gear boxes have the level plug.

"Modern" tractors, particularly the smaller ones, are basically all the same in this regard. They all share a common "safety" concept . Yet they're all different in how they go about it. They use different style switches, mount them in different places, wire them in slightly different sequences...

Personally, I don't care much for "kits" in this case. As I see it, kits are for people who aren't really sure of what they're doing. You buy what someone else thinks is what you need. But if you buy one you're at the mercy of what comes in the box. If it fits/works where and how you want it...

Looks more like a crankcase breather than anything hydraulic. And if it is, then no it should not have a plug on it.

More likely something to do with the seat switch. Another of those "Safety Sam" intervention circuits engineers are so proud of.

If it has a relief valve it will be in the lift valve circuit somewhere. If it were me, I would probably remove the banjo bolt from the lift housing end of the pressure line. swing the line out of the way enough to get a rubber tipped air nozzle sealed against the port. With bare lift arms...

Start with the basics. Is there anything other than the three point that uses hydraulics? Probably manual steering? You might start with checking to see if the pump is moving any oil. You can do that by loosening some bolts on the pump output line, or the banjo bolt securing the pressure line...

Cost of parts and materials will depend on what you want as a finished product, and where you shop. A single remote can be done for under $500 from some sources or $1000 or more from others. If you have a loader (with power beyond already) that's a good start. If you know what you're doing...

Now that I think about it more, I recall that TL 80 and TL 90 tractors had some problems because the valves were NOT convertible to single acting. I suspect yours would be the same. They most likely will be strictly double acting. As for the pump size, I don't recall that issue ever coming up.

I guess I misread your earlier post. I was thinking this was a TN 70, my mistake. On the TN tractors the remote valves are on the back stacked up just above the top link bracket, easy to get to. Most of the valves I see on those tractors have a stem on the back side with a 10mm hex head. That is...

I don't deal in snow plows so I wouldn't know where to start, other than this one possibility. You say it has small cylinders and small hoses. I'm thinking it may be designed to operate slowly. Possibly has restrictor orifices or fittings designed to reduce oil flow to a minimum just for that...

I don't know what others do, but I save it in old plastic oil jugs, same as I do waste oil of any kind. I don't deal much in old gas, it's mostly diesel. I mix any gas with diesel, and save that for use as parts wash. Once it's too dirty for that any more it goes into other jugs along with waste...

I see a good possibility the cylinder has an internal problem. I would suggest you contact whoever sold it to you and see what that gets you. New parts SHOULD come with warranty.