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Be carefull with a mesh cover as you may just end up with packed snow behind it.

Just did the oil change on my tc40 yesterday..and it didnt blow up. I just used a small funnel and greased the unit while I filled it.

I log at least 3,800mi towing per year. Alot more than 1,000mi in 6yrs. I'm just carefull about not pulling over on the shoulder, not hitting things, checking air pressure and not overloading. Also every pit stop I touch every tire and wheel hub to check temp.

I have changed them my self. Sledge hammer, few prybars and a jug of soapy water. I have calcium filled tires so needed a liquid fill adapter, 55gal drum and cheap 120v pump.

I have done this and it tends to blow appart the grease but then spreads it all over the machine. What's the best way..idk as I dont clean mine like that.

unfortunately with these auctions you generaly have to pay then go see what you bought. I would pass on this. It will prob come back up at auction and if they list the trans problem I bet the price is lower. If they dont list the trans issue you can either bid again or know there could be...

I have family who put aftermarket TPMS sensors on a RV. It had rubber valve stems. In a years time they had to replace all 6 valve stems. We think due to the size of the sensor going at speed caused failure of them. Replaced with steel and no issues.

Cheap, black and round..they also need to be radial and hold air. In 8-10yrs your going to need to replace them anyway. I run just cheap tires on nearly everything I own. And no I'm not changing tires every 500mi. Never had a blow out in 20yrs.

Dont throw parts at it. Test things like you have been. There may be a clutch switch and PTO switch. You could try to jump power to the starter to see if the starter is working. Then jump power to the start side of the ignition switch.

That's not that hard. It's not a high speed bearing or roller.

As long as there tight and make good contact with the flat part of the eyelet the nut is really there just to hold it, not so much of a contact point.

Express steel and tomahawlk both make quality USA built grapples that are strong enough for a large machine like yours. I would definitely be looking for smaller slots in the bottom like the one your showing here. They do make them with a solid bottom too.

becids cheap parts I dont see this thing worth fixing. Your not going to replace the engine or generator.

"As short as possible" then types out a novel. Lol If you have 13v when running your charging system is good and I suspect you have a draw.

The longevity of any road will be greatly Iincrease the faster you can get water off it.

Could be some junk in the tank clogging the outlet. Next time it's happening instantly take off the fuel line right below the tank and let her drip for a bit. Low flow there and it dosnt matter how good the rest of the system is.

That's a good catch. Now why did only 2 of the 4 brakes lock up?

I should note too that I have used rustoleum in a HvLP spray gun on a few bilco doors and have to re paint about every 8yrs. They get faded real bad and paint flakes off.

I have used this one to spray 5gal of water based poly on pine tongue/grove and trim. No thinning and no issues.

Theres no acess cover? If so spray it penetrating oil and try to free it up.

I use to cut chain link fence lines with a boom mower like that. I dont see why you couldn't with a side flail.

It's only a tractor so prety minimal pannels to move and you have acess to nearly every wire on the machine.

Cold on both sides of the evaporator tells me you dont have any air flow across it. No gauges, pressures or calculations needed.

You should adjust your valves. Had a similar issue with a champion and sportsman unit. the sportsman one actualy showed up as knocking and blowing blue smoke.

Let me guess theres 100-150hrs on it?

If you can split the machine your self why not change the seal your self?

They also benefit from the starter relay mod. Basicly takes away alot of the load from the key circuit and puts it on a external relay...or you could have have a stuck starter. Next time it just clicks hold it in the start possition and tap the starter with a hammer. Do this a few times. If...

I have also had compressor seals leak and condensers have holes that where 2 weeks old. In fact I replaced the condensor 3x on one vehicle in 1yr. Finaly figured put that out of the box they had multiple pin holes. Could be a million reasons for a leak. I have a leaking service port on a...

It sounds like the system is working. Maybe not working well but working. Are you sure the evaporator and condensor are clean and clear? Can you see light through them?

I havent but that is my favorite type of pour spout. I even have a bunch of VP raving fuel jugs. The problem with them is you need to lift the whole jug while trying to make it into the gas tank. Not the "no spill" you just put the spout in the gas tank then start the flow. It's really handy...

Presses are alreaty really top heavy. You go adding more weight and making it roll may no be good. Just think it's going to tip over the first pebble or hole in the concrete it hits.

Considering the white rope broke in 2hrs I think we are going to find abuse of the cable. Also if your wire rope broke do not use synthetic. They arnt nearly as abrasion resistant as wire.

Does one end have a hose clamp? It's hard to tell.

They sold tons of these TC series machines with the japanese engine. And I bet there are still tons running around every day. My machine has 3100hrs with no major issues and I didnt even know about this until a few weeks ago.

Theres a saying that goes for a $20 tree you want to dig a $40 hole. This means the better the hole you put the tree in the more likely it is to survive. For 9in pots I would be tempted to use a 12in auger and dig way deeper than needed. Then widen the hole with a shovel and put the spoils in...

I dont believe that crack would cause a blown head gasket or to get coolant in the combustion chamber. Depending on the price of a head I would be real tempted to weld that crack and lap the those two valves. However if the machine is low hours, in good shape and you want to keep ot for many...

Everyone that's willing to learn or do things them self is in over there head at some point. It's how you get out of it. If your going to smack every project with your check book you will never learn anything. OP AC in this and vehicles arnt very hard to work on. We just need a few key...

Is the compressor turning?

For yours..if that jack is welded on I would recess the 2in reciever through the front lower bar. Weld it to the lower bar and the jack. I would still put a brace on the bottom of the reciever. Minimal material needed and prob the strongest your going to get on that trailer.

Never needed to located the compressor relay for a completely drained system. Did it drain out by its self? If so just add refridgerant until it kicks on. If you opened the system you should pull a vacuum or the system wont work properly.

A flail mower does alot better job than a rotory cutter on grass. Where they dont and a rotory shines is woody thicker material. I think you just have the wrong mower.

Why do you need to dig the stump out? Would grinding it be good enough? I was clearing a site for a small cabin with my 3,500lb mini ex and after the immediate cabin foundation site was cleared of stumps I decided to not dig any more up. Digging stumps is hard on machines and can actualy be...

Did you clean the battery terminals?

I would start with cleaning the battery terminals. Then disconnect the signal wire like stated above. My tc40 died on me climbing a pile of dirt a few weeks ago. Stone dead, nothing for power. Turns out the battery terminals where just dirty. Parked undercover also. Cleanes the terminals...

Good catch. I suprised the shaft even went together 90* off. Typicaly these are 3 spline with 1 being different.

Geez it's not like there a days drive appart and you dont even know the scope of the work.

Could your lift pump be getting weak?

Look up the starter relay mod.

Yup. Do this. I built a set of pin on forks and hardly ever changed them..then I got another tractor and one had forks and one had a bucket. Then I got a machine with SSQA loader and sold both.

Is the knocking in the lower end or up by the valve train? Could need a simple valve adjustment.

If everything works I woulnt go tearing stuff appart just to find where they came from. A bit clue on where they came from may be where the fluid comes from to get into that filter. Usualy it's on the suction side of the pump.

Bent pins are prob just the start of the problem. Bent pins usualy means you have oval holes.

I wish my machine came with a 3rd function..it did come with a rear remote. But its kind of awkward lifting/curling the grapple with the same hand as the rear remote has to work.

My suburban with Michelin ATX tires would need 4x4 on to also not be stuck on flat grass. They had 75% tread too. Worst AT tire ever made. It also has a positive rear.

You can handle it. 98% of the job is nuts and bolts. 1% replacing the seal and 1% making sure your changing the right seal. Clean that all off with a pressure washer and drive it again to really see where its leaking.

A1 and b1. I suspect the number correlates to the spool. And the letter the port. If not..just swap hoses. You want the cylinder to be on the same spool. Thus it can open both ports. One port to pressurize and one to take fluid.

19hp..I would buy the cheap one.

It sounds like you have a starting issue. When was the last fuel filter change or full service?

No cab, no heat/AC and cant be registered in many places. Granted it's new. One thing to think about on these Kei truck is parts can be very expensive.

Hes alreaty got a tank and the whole setup but dosnt want to change the pump..just wants to smack it with his checkbook so I dont think building one is on the radar. Lol

When you hear of doom and gloom in the stock market..that's the time to buy. In all honest though 45days is a mear blip on the radar for a IRA. And I mostly only buy mutual or index funds.

See how they best lay and hook them up.

I would check the safety switches.

Why not just use a resistor inline with a 3 possition switch. Center could be off and up/down could be hi/low. I would not but over 10v to the brakes as they will prob lock up.

Very carefully and remember righty tighty lefty loosey.

I built one of these years ago, it also has a trailer hitch. I honestly never use it any more. My tractor has a 6' bucket and a chainsaw mount along with a trailer hitch in the SSQA cross bar. Any big things are going in the bucket so I dont have to get off and hand unload it.

There different. Lots of dealers mark up the financing price vs the cash price then offer low % interest rate..because it's just in the full price now.

I also have a 6' BB and have used it on a 2wd 60hp, 19hp 4x4 and 40hp 4x4 machine. You just take less of a bite with a lower hp machine just like you would with less traction and a high hp machine.

If I remember right there more costly than a landscape rake, box blade and rear blade combined.

I back drag quite a bit with my machine..however it's never in virgin ground. Usualy I'm pulling the top down of a loose pile.

You still need to buy all the hoses and fittings. I thought I should update this with a pic including the power beyond plug. I had to order some fittings from surplus center to make everything work. Tha is to all those who told me about this. Adding another hose wasn't that big of a deal but...

You have wet brakes..get the right stuff. Nearly every hyd oil bucket is going to say it meets or exceeds "xxxxxxx" spec. But theres no 3rd party testing like engine oil. Is $130 in oil vs $70 in oil and possibly changing hard parts going to be worth the savings?

I would just weld something on right in the place of the most wear and possibly a few other spots. Once the welded area is worn down you just cut the rest of it off.

I believe those had a collar with set screws on the cutter shaft opposite of the pully. If I remember correctly the collar matched up to a oval shape in the inner race of the bearing. You had to spin the collar to lock it on the shaft and bearing then set screw it.

My local power company was offering "free nest" thermostats. In the fine print they gave them self the ability to change the temp.

That same 30yrold samurai today would be 6x that price.

I have a kubota kh-41 (1990s era) 19hp machine. A month ago I got a 31in tilt grading bucket. The tilt lock ability of my machine isnt great. However the ability to scoop and move 31in of material is wonderfull. I have really hard rocky clay and it will fill the bucket in two scoops. These...

1433lbs without the loader. Thebloader adds another 5-600lbs. Are your rear tires loaded? Appalachian trailer has some of the lowest cost/new trailers I have seen. I would not get anything under 7,000lb gvw. The weight of the trailer takes away from its capacity. Your looking at roughly...

No it wont. They just bend in half. I also have a heavy cat 1/2 rear blade I ran down my driveway once. It was way to aggressive. I use a landscape rake fully angled with every other tooth removed. Does fine for my 700' driveway with a wide turn in it.

What's the actual shipping weight? Worst come to worse you just drag them off the truck and let them hit the ground. It's not like your going to damage wood shavings.

Idk where your located but Appalachian trailer has tilt decks starting at $6100 for a 15k. https://www.appalachiantrailers.com/equipment-trailers

That dosnt mean it's the operator or it could be from a rollover. Some common sence is needed.

Thank you. I kind of figured that was the N port but it isnt listed as such.

Going by this diagram I need the power beyond sleve and to connect the T port to the cover on the 3rd function cap. Does the valve in the pic even have a N port?

So I need the sleve on the T port and that's it? No 3rd line

I was needing another pair of rear remotes to add to my factory set. Looking around I saw options from $600 plus hoses to $1500 for another factory pair. Not really liking those options I decided to put my own kit together. What you see is a $65 open center valve body and about $280 in...

Home depot now rents a 10k+ trailer in my local area.

One way to make the wood decking not so slippery is to pressure wash it every few years. And if you think wood decking is slick you never touched a piece of wet diamond plate. That stuff is like greased ice.

This is what I was going to suggest. Box blade with scarifiers. Will prob rip up more than you really wanted to if your not carefull. Power rakes are more for preparing a seed bed..not removing pot holes.

If the exterior looks good then I wouldnt change then. When you start to see alot of rust and coating peeling off its time. 2yrs ago I got a tc40 with 3,000hr and nearly all the hoses where a ball of rust. I changed all the hoses with surpluscenter hoses for under $500. If your really...

That looks really close to my Rankin rear blade. Paid under $600 for it early last year. It cuts almost to well.

If you do this make sure the valve is an open center valve on the splitter. Typicaly they are. This is prob the simplest and easiest way to get the thing to work with your machine. For a more permident fix you could make a small bar that locks the rear remote lever in one direction.

I guess you cant take away the human aspect of things...like if your willing to put all your information in a site selling a new attachment for 1/4 the price of new.

A slip clutch isnt suposto be a fix for the tractor stalling. It a "break away" point before major damage happens. When you got it did you loosen the bolts on it, mark it and slip it? It should be done when new and every year.

So one more site has your info..and easier dosnt always mean safer.

Why even have a paypal account? I use to have one for year due to being a seller on ebay and canceled it. There no benefit over a credit card.

300hrs and a drive is going out?

Sounds like vapor lock. Is the carb or fuel line right by the exhaust?

I'm useing cases on motor oil I bought march of 2020 when oil prices tanked. I'm also burning home heating oil in equipment that I bought at the same time. It will be a few more years until I'm out of both.

Then you have to deal with swamp ass for 12 months though. In all seriousness you may be holding water under/in your base of stone. Drainage is key in any outdoor project.

If it's just a few tubes leaking just crimp it with a pair of pliers.

Zip tie them together at the banjo fitting would be my first try. Possibly aiming the banjo fitting away from the tractor a bit more would be what I would try second.

My ATV sprayer use to have a mixing valve on it but I use that for a boomless nozzle. I find just driving around a bit mixed just fine.

I'm sorry but the best way to find a problem is to look at the piece of equipment. We can only guess from here. It is a prety simple system with a single drive shaft and gear box.

$160 for half of it. **** that's expensive. They last longer when there used in extension not compression. Also I would try to weld that up first.

If it has a return then you would just plug it.

Prob just have air in the cylinder

If one of the reasons you want to get rid of it is due to no dealer support I wouldnt buy another NH machine. Buy what ever the local dealer sells. Or you could look around for a private garage. What are you looking to have done that no one wants to work on it? I own a tc40 with 3100hrs...

So your changing the hub oil with about 100hrs on it? Seams a bit excessive. I do check mine annually and typicaly change such oil in a new used piece of equipment when I buy it.

Wow..this thread..just wow.

Asking and what they sell for are two totally different things.

Yup! How do plan on maintaining 10ac of lawn? Why what I see that's alreaty there just mow it how it currently sits. In a few meetings you fill find that unless you have large equipment (and you said you didnt) you wont want a 10ac lawn after a few mowing sessions.

Specs show that machine having about 8gpm total flow. I would use 3/8 line. How many gpm is the valve body listed for? Typicaly there 10-13gpm but may have 3/8-1/2 ports.

Time to cut your losses. These mowers are hardly worth changing all the belts on. Usualy by then there totally worn out.

Theres no 3rd party testing for hudraulic oil like the API tag on engine oil. So the hydraulic oil manufacturer can state there oil is comparable with anything due to no testing. Good luck trying to get a cheap hydraulic oil company to pay for repairs. However if you dont have HST, wet...

What about a 200mm bolt and cut some off? Theres plenty of ways to do this and not need the specific bolt length.

I have repaired many tractor wheels like this. A few around a rotted valve stem hole and two where the center around the lug holes was cracking. Way easier and cheaper than finding a new rim.

Pickle forks rip boots..in this case it dosnt matter. But they can also damage ball joints. There are reasons why you wouldnt want to use a ball joint press/puller. For instance your not taking the wheel off.

Your basicly putting a relay in the trigger circuit of the starter. It takes away alot of the load on that circuit. I would search for the starter relay mod. I believe these NH machines are known for burning up fuses and the plug on the key switch.

Does this unit have the starter relay mod done?

This is what I would do. Idk why they even need that small tank as the fuel tank should gravety feed to the pump.

Cant you register things for less than the gVW on the tag?

Mine came with the manual. That's where I got the slip clutch specs from. I should have an old bias ply tire around to make a rear deflector from.

Bussman makes good fuse holders. I would not use a cheap off brand. Bad connections can cause this to happen.

It's a hydro drive machine. No way would I be putting diesel in the hyd oil. In fact since its hydro drive I would flush with the correct oil. Flushing $200-250 in fluid is going to be far cheaper than buying any parts damaged by useing the wrong fluid...not to mention the labor.

I do this too but pry the joint appart while hitting. Messed up way to many ball joints hitting the stud/castle nut..and 1 is to many. The other way is way less risky.

Thanks for the info! This takes a tooth that's available for $11 each shipped and made in the USA. In the short time I have used this I hate the rear guard. It's got bound up on a piece of stump alreaty on me. I want to swap it for a rubber flap. I did make sure the slip clutch worked. I...

Bought it. Tested it out with only 1 rear remote, definitely made my 40hp machine grunt. Ground a 36in old white pine stump. Took about 30min. I'm impressed with the quality of Baumalight. Every joint has a grease fitting and its built with very thick steel. Where did you put the suitcase...

Your machine is 25hp and it's a mower and more than likely has swinging blades. 6" overlap should be more than enough. Most 25hp lawnmowers are running the same HP though a belt that lasts hundreds of hours without swinging blades.

Here it's about $300 a day and I'm not paying any where close to even $5k. $75 per stump is nearly slave labor price..but even at that price it would cost me over half the price of what this one is listed at.

Anyone with a baumalight 3p24? May go look at one tomorrow thats very lightly used. for my gear drive 40hp machine. I have 20 stumps to grind from 8in to 36in+ and all hard wood. Trees have been down for 2yrs. Looks like this...

Keep the grass short and just use a decent backpack blower.

Does the machine have wet brakes or clutches? If so I would make sure you use NH fluid. I believe I paid $120 for 5gal of NH fluid about 2yrs ago. Either way I would flush it with the cheapest hyd fluid can find. A quick run, cycle the 3pt and cylinders then dump it all. Hows the water...

This looks really weak right where your gold pin is. It also alreaty looks bent.

If the cheaper price of the Applacian trailer scares you away keep in mind that your buying directly from the manufacturer. More than likely your buying from a middle man for the rest of them. Total transparency..I bought a new 10k Appalachian in 2023 and have been happy with it. It saved me...

I also bagged until I mulched one year..and saw no difference in the spring once the grass started growing. I have lots of maple trees. However I do blow my white pine needles back up under the tree.

I have two about the same age and same brand. Never a priming issue.

Take the hose off, fill with fluid then re install hose.

Fuel jug to new electric pump directly to the supply to injection pump. If the problem still happens I would change injectors and check compression. If new Injectors and compression is good your prob looking at a high pressure pump if your pump timing isnt off.

You could also put a electric pump on from a fuel jug to test the low pressure fuel system. There fairly cheap and easier than injectors to do.

Ops..for got to add a zero. 300x75' that's a bit past what I would do with a walk behind tiller.

Looks like your sealing surface has rust on it thus making the seal wear out. Dont shim anything unless it's out of spec.

For a test patch it may be cheaper to pay someone to till it. However 1/2ac is 30x75'. For that and the fact that your ground prob isnt nearly as bad as mine I would go rent the biggest walk behind tiller you can. Should be under $150 for a day. My soil is so terrible (its rocks and clay)...

Sure is! But since there doing it with a tractor I bet theres a ton of wasted space. My little 20x35' garden feeds 3-4 of us in season..but some walking paths are only 12in wide. The biggest one is as wide as a wheel barrow..

I would check compression. but also make sure you can get the injectors out before buying them.

Theres plenty of commercial grade ZTR mowers that dont have greasable spindles. Mine has almost 400hrs on it. Bought it used and hit things hard enough to stall the engine many times. Still have the original blades and spindles. However. I had a craftsman lawnmower that had greasable spindles...

They definitely do. I bet they change with deck size even on the same model tractor.

Once initial woody growth is knocked down it may be quicker to use something like a zero turn mower...unless your only mowing 3x a year.

Why buy the cow when the milk is free? I can get free chips delivered here. I can also make a pile of brush disappear with a match.

I have really slowed leakage to manageable on my tc40 by simply taking a pick and carefully cleaning the crud out of the seal. I believe what your talking about is the rear of the front driveshaft? Check the exploded view for what parts and seals you may need and what's available before you...

You sure the teeth on the ring gear are good?

I had to clear some forest for a driveway and cabin site. I much prefer to remove the stump with the tree still attached vs trying to dig out a stump with my 3,500lb micro ex. The really big 24in stumps outside of the driveway and cabin foundation I left and will grind. For a 1-2x job like...

This also makes them easier to break or rip the hose.

it's just nuts and bolts. You may beable to un bolt the fan shroud and slide the rad up and out.

There's a internal filter in these. It looks just like a tank to hold liquid but is also a filter.

Dont just throw parts at it. Start off by checking fuses then checking for power at the first glow plug. Tractors and equipment in general tend to get really grungy behind pannels that cover things like electrical components. The TC40 definitely suffers from this. With this being said I...

I would do a flush after you get the new plug and put the new filter on after the first change.

I mean cerial rye attracts them and it green under snow in central NY. The seed is cheap and you dont need any of this equipment to plant it. I have a 40hp tractor and only once used the landscape rake on my food plots and that's because they where woods prior.

Lower tire pressure.

The dewalt 60v weights about 13lbs and I believe that's with no battery. That's prety heavy to me. I have a ms193t top handle saw that's under 8lbs dry I believe.

I have a tc40 gear drive with L,M H range then 1-4 gears also forward and reverse in all of them. I actualy wanted a gear drive machine because in 20yrs il be looking for a $250 clutch not a discontinued hyd pump. I dont expect to need/want a different tractor for many decades. If your in a...

What are they 6x or 10x the price vs a standard coupler?

Once your nearing the $10k range I would be looking for a used name brand machine. I own a 1990 kubota kh41. A 3,500lb machine I bought with 1200hrs about 6yrs ago. I have put 800hrs on it. I replaced a track roller bearing, pin and seal to the tune of $250 in parts. That's a 35yr old machine...

Cash for me too. Wire transfers arnt instant and can be canceled. You also may need to pay income tax on that if $50k is dumped into your account all at once

Currently burning home heating oil that I bought march of 2020. Its stored just like alot of fuel..in a 275gal tank outside and not covered. My pump has a goldenrod filter with clear bowl..its clean and the tank is 1/2 used. I should run out of fuel in year 2031-2032.

Yet the ones that power coat sell it like its gold but fail to mention that the coating is going to flake off like leaves in the fall.

Looks like you will need to split the tractor to find out. If not doing it your self..yes its expensive.

And people "only use OE" branded filter because they expect them to be good. Did something happen to this machine like a flood?

Your powder coating experience is about the same as mine. Once it starts coming off and it will..its a never ending battle of fixing it every year. I purposely did not want powder coating on my new trailer. If your in the rust belt maybe wool wax will help you coat the underside. I have used...

They dont use a standard relay? Either way I would try swapping relays. After that make sure your getting power from the switch and constant power on the high amp side. Of relay.

When disconnecting if you park your attachment, turn machine off then cycle the valves it would put the attachment your disconnecting in a good position to re hook at a later time. Flat face connections are a total pain in the ass though. Granted my AG connectors are prety far away from where...

Is it really worth saving less than $10? Btw rotella is doing there rebate now. Check there website.

Hydraulic lines are prety cheap with Npt fittings. I have had a 3/4in hyd hose running off my air compressor for at least a decade.

You prob have air in the high pressure fuel system. Look up the process to bleed it out.

Are they discontinued? If not just type the part number in google.

140* really isnt that hot. My 1990 kubota kh41 tank would get so hot you cant touch it when digging for hours on a 90*f day. Never thought twice about it, it's got iso46 with 800hrs on it. Still a amber hue. It's just tractor supply oil

I bet there dog, fence and driveway is also the same color.

In 2019 we bought a "remote" piece of property (3hrs away) that was nothing but woods. I built a driveway and cleared land along with built a cabin. Only contracted out the delivery of stone. It only took one long weekend being wasted via a broken hyd hose to make me realize that extra hoses...

Land that floods isnt land and has no value unless you own all 4 sides of it.

This Prety standard practice in more than just tractors.

Have you thought about just repairing your current bucket? When I bought my TC40 it had a badly rotted out bucket. Keeping an eye on marketplace for plate steel I got a nice section in the size I needed for $100. I cut out the whole bottom and 8in of the back.

I have express steel forks. There good quality, US built and easy to deal with. Have you checked tomahawlk brand?

I recently redid part of my lawn and used by bucket, landscape rake then a box spring with some weight behind a garden tractor. The box spring made the biggest difference but you still may need to touch up by hand with a field rake.

Any one own one of these $350 chinese tilt buckets for there mini? I assume il have to adapt the hoses to some US standard? This is going on my 1990 KH-41. I have a chinese quick coupler coming for it also.

A real lumber yard can order 24' lumber.

This isnt a mid range tractor..its hardly even a name brand.

Before I mount a cooler I would also do what you did and see how it ran. And before I mounted a cooler I would try to add capacity. Adding capacity isnt really that hard if you dont care if the splitter looks factory. Granted it is a bit difficult to add capacity to splitter with a hydraulic...

Yes GPM to cylinder size matter. But when your 5in cyl with 4 way cycles 2sec slower than with a 4in and 2way wedge it's doing nearly 2x the work.. the work being split wood. Theres actually a calculator for splitter cycle time online I used years ago to figure out the specs for the one I built.

What kind of lawn mower are you buying for $12k+?

They didnt de rate anything. Theres typicaly two axles. 6000x2 is 12,000lbs

The fact that only one side of the shackle for the leaf springs is worn kind of tells me that it's not an overweight situation. How did your tires fail? I have never owned a trailer with anything other than plastic bushings in there and they wernt greased. The last one I took appart had worn...

Look on marketplace. I have had the same 6' on a 19hp to 40hp. The 19hp just didnt like to many of the scarifiers dropped as much as the 40hp.

Isnt this company going out of business alreaty? Also why would they mark down something like this in spring of all times.

I built a spitter years ago with a 15hp engine, 22gpm dual stage pump, 3/4 lines every where and 5in cylinder. Its fast and has a 4way permidently welded on it. I can cut wood right in half with it. How ever it's a pain to move, dosnt tip down and is electric start so the battery is always...

Are you sure the clutch isnt stuck?

This is considered OCD? I only tow 2k-10k trailers and mostly spring-late fall. Part of my "opening season" maitence is to check tire pressure, Inspect for damage and lube things up. Il generaly check the tire pressure about every other month after that. Something else I didnt think about is...

Yup time to flush the tank. It can be done on the tractor. Drain as much as you can and inspect what's left with a flashlight.

People who spend 2x on things tend to believe there getting more for there money. had 11yrs on "china bombs" before I changed them to "china bombs". Been towing things for 20yrs and knock on wood never had a blow out. Checking for dry rot and having proper pressure really goes a long way in...

This is a good lesson in trial and error. You wont hurt anything by hooking them up wrong.

The problem I see with this style rake is theres no support for the beam holding the rake teeth. The outer teeth will make that whole piece of C channel twist. This happens with the cheaper ones too. It can be fixed as I did this with my TSC rake. My well used and abused 72in rake. I have...