Search results

My solution, as I don't have the torque I used to have, is to load my tractor, skid steer, etc. and haul it to my tire dealer (~8 miles) into town. He can easily get said wheel off and repair made (even new tires), usually without unloading the tractor/skid steer. A big win for me!

My instructions may not have been a clear as it could have been. Top link is solid, (I thought they all were even if length is not fixed) and my mower has a chain conection between the top link and the wheel. I have a JD 5420.

For a rotary cutter, adjust the height of the cutter on flat ground uing the top link. With the draft setting at it lowest position, drop the lift arms to its lowest position. Then using the the draft control lever, pull the lever up until the front of the mower raises up to the point where set...

Does your tractor have draft control? One can put enough lift pressure to keep top link tight but not enough to lift the implement, a must with rotary cutters to prevent the scalping, etc.

I am late to this party but will offer another solution that I used. I cut the 3X# tubing on the hay spear above the spear and added a 6" extention that increased the distance between the top link and lower link pins. This will make the spear angle up as it is lifted. Might be a cheaper...

While at my John Deere dealer for other things, I asked about hst oil for my Kubota b1850. Dealer sent me to my Kubota dealer 30 miles away saying that he would only use OEM transmission oil! Too many varibles to risk damage and if not using OEM oil and no recourse if problems arise.

My 849 baler has broken the left main chain twice in the last two weeks (about 20 bales between breaks/). Four times over the last three years. When it broke today, I noticed the broeken chain was hot to the touch while the other chain was just warm. Any ideas as to what may be going on...