Search results

I found this listing a while ago. And its still up. I've been lazily looking for a replacement/amendment to my current old 87 Yamaha 225cc atv. However this guy might be tired of waiting to get rid of it and it might be ready to deal. No way will I pay near his 3k ask. However, I was curious...

The final bit of reassembly was probably the hardest or at least the most tedious. Driving the new knuckle seal in was tedious. I again gave it a light coat of grease to help it go in, I used a scrap piece of 2x6 wood as a seal driver (pic 1). In hindsight, a scrap piece of 2x8 would have...

To drive in the new wheel seal, it turns out that a 2" socket works very well as a seal driver (pic 1) I also coated the seal with a very light smearing of wheel bearing grease to ease the intstall (I've done this on vehicle seals before and it seems to help from driving too hard and damaging...

So I finally got it all back together. Sorry for the delay but I had a few things that tore me away from this project. I found on the other side that the wheel seal had a broken edge (pic 1) so I'm very glad I decided to go this deep and replace them along with the knuckle seals. Also, all of...

At this point, I had the confidence in which parts I needed so I ordered the seals from Hoye. I inspected the seal collar #6 on the diagram and it appears to be in great shape and very smooth. I also believe it is pressed on as it will not move and is pressed all the way down on the axle...

So here is the update. I found a set of Sears craftsman snap ring pliers for $25 pic 1. Home Depot had a set of Chan-L-Lok brand for $6 more and they looked like they came out of the same factory. Anyway, as I stated earlier, I had my doubts as to whether I even needed to remove the snap rings...

Now I'm down to looking into the hub again pic#1. Saw a collar looking thing and decided to tug on it. It slid right off and I think that is #8 on the diagram. That looks good pic #2. Finally for tonight, I'm staring at the infamous snap ring for the wheel bearing just beyond #8 and.... I have...

On the other half, I got the big gear staring me in the face pic#1. Then I decide to take the lock nut off using an itty bitty flathead screwdriver and a few taps of the hammer I got the 2 tabs that were folded over to "lock" straightened enough to get the nut off by hand. (worried a bit about...

The next thing was cleaning the gasket surface on the "chunk" side. Now I'm glad I bought the $10 Harbor Freight angle grinder with the $8 set of surfacing pads pic#1. The next pic is of after 2 min using said tool on the "chunk"....nice and clean. The last pic is of an area on that surface...

So I decided to go after some leaks I have on my front end 4wd on my 2000bd. The Lucas Hub Oil sealer helped for a while but the problem has progressed to an intolerable point for me. When I cleaned it up to find the leak a long while back, I had it narrowed to the knuckle seals. I searched...

If you could provide some more exact measurements. I might be interested in buying them. (not sure how we could ship to GA though) I have a vtek loader on my yanmar which is similar to many smaller JD tractors. My loader may be the "pin and hook" style previously mentioned. I'll attach a pic...

No Sir, Where a typical steering manual gearbox would be.....I have a hydro diverter. I'll try and take a pic. My phone cam isnt so good in dark.

Here is what I have Winston. Hopefully you can see it. Bucket attachment requires a pin at bottom and a hook type deal at top. Everything I've looked for online seems to be a bust beyond hiring a fabricator to make me some forks.

So I got my power steering and a loader when I bought my 2000bd with a vtek vn1 loader. However, I believe that the power steering ram (1-1/4") is way overkill. When spinning the wheel, I have to wait for the pump to "catch up" with the turn I'm making. Is this normal? When looking at the...