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Turned out the tie rod to the pump was bent and biding the rack.

Any tips would be appreciated! Here's the problem: -Must hold the rack half open for the engine to start. -Engine runs great at wide open, but it's hard to turn the throttle down without killing. The governor hunts and often kills if I turn the lever down too quickly. All was well before an...

Thanks! I had actually called your shop and spoken with you about this which seems like a GREAT idea. The problem I ran into is that the machine shop was going to charge $225 to bore (75 a hole) but when I asked about sleeves, the price went up to around a grand to fit. This thing's not worth...

I have a little Mits 3 cyl diesel that went from running to not and when I pulled the timing cover, the gears are off by several teeth. How could this happen?

I wish. Too late now I'm afraid. The cylinders have excessive wear and low compression. I pulled the head and there's a good 0.020" ridge worth of wear. It's no wonder there's only in the high 100s and low 200 psi range on compression. Thanks mice or maybe paper wasps. But also thanks to...

My L3E had a mouse chew up the air filter and now the compression is low enough it will not start. Time for new pistons and a bore. Where can I find good quality (hopefully OE quality) pistons for an L3E 3 cylinder diesel?

Can a diesel f250 comfortably pull a 13k backhoe at say 60mph? If so, is it best to load the hoe front or rear facing? I assume a gooseneck a good bit longer than the machine would be best? I'm new to pulling anything over say 8k and it's a good thing to hear from experience vs guessing on towing.

The flow control or maybe control valve itself makes the main boom very jerky. The backhoe feels a little scary to me as a first time operator. I don't like the amount of play in the pins. Is it normal to have this amount of play?I see a bolt for tightening and removal... I'm going to tighten...

My son just picked uo this backhoe and we're trying to find the model. Looks to have been painted Ford Blue long ago over top of the industrial yellow. It's 23' long and 80" wide. It has a 3 cylinder diesel.

I'm noticing a long bolt at each side where the hoe mounts. This is a 60s or 70s unit. Is replacing this a routine maintenance item? There's a little play at the mounts and pins.

If I barely touch the valve control, it jerks the whole machine. The only way to operate smoothly is to the the boom swing the bucket into the ground. If i let up, it has so much speed that the machine bounces for a second. There is no slow precision to this movement. Other cylinders are fine...

The engine seems to run, all is said to function ok, but is there anything expensive I should watch out for?

Most engines seem to have a flywheel to a clutch. I have a situation where I will be repowering a skid steer from an engine with an output shaft. I could just go with a Honda v twin with the right shaft diameter but it seems for the same money I can buy a Yanmar with around the same...

Looking to find an L175 compatible loader.

How do I find on that will bolt on? Is there such a unit?

My sons and I dug about 10yds with shovels to correct the grade that sloped toward our house in the country. This inspired me to buy a tractor. I have been using a 34hp 336d and scraper blade to spread gravel and it has worked great. I still have about 3 to 5 yards of dirt to move (more...

I have been getting a recent purchase (my first tractor) back into action and it has for the most part gone very well thanks to the guidance of the experts here on this forum. This machine reads around 4500 hours. I have no history on the engine, but I know the country club that serviced it...

I looked quickly and didn't see one. There should be a breather for when the oil heats and expands in any axle shouldn't there be?

I don't know if I'd call this a permanent fix but it seems to be working. I had a leak at the usual point (here): I pulled the knuckle (4 bolts) and other than being heavy (probably 50 lbs) and hard to line up while holding the weight, it's a very easy piece to remove and replace. The lip...

A member here pm'd me saying that maybe the recess is by design. I took a look at the closeup in this video: Yanmar Tractor Clutch Replacement - YouTube and it looks like there's about the same groove depth in this flywheel. Hoye calls it good. So maybe I'm ok. See the picture (and/or video).

I don't want to resurface if I don't have to. I have the tractor split and would like to rejoin asap. The groove is right where the clutch would ride.

What could this mean? This was before the throwout spring came loose by the way.

I bought this tractor with a clutch rusted to the flywheel. I sprayed it with diesel and transmission fluid mix and hit the edges with a large flat punch in different spots and got it free. But it still moves with the clutch in. After a while of driving it, i notice that theres a spring hanging...

It doesn't look as bad as the 8Ns fluid that I almost bought (white milkshake), but of course I wasn't happy to see even a trace water. The guts look shiny still with no rust. I was glad to see that. The screen was coated with gunk pretty good. Question: What's to keep the triangle cap side of...

Here's what came out of the new to me 336D:

I am thinking maybe air in the suction side. Can I pull one of the flexible pressure lines and look for bubbles? Pulled the fluid and strainer and it was pretty fuzzy.

I'm guessing crud/rust is sticking something but don't want to tear down more than I should. Where should I start?

I just picked up my first Yanmar, a 336D and before I purchased, I checked the axle oil and it's grease. I assume it leaked and the owner decided to just grease them instead of using oil that would leak out. Will this cause damage? as far as I can tell it drives just fine. I will probably flush...