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The lift spec would probably depend on the specific brand and model. How deep is the well? Pumps generally push water better than they suck it.

I think you're saying your steering works intermittently. A bit more information would be helpful for troubleshooting - like the operating conditions under which it becomes difficult to steer.

I don't know how your power steering works but my old Mitsubishi was two wheel drive without power steering. Adequate pressure in the front tires was essential for easier steering.

Either you've got the model number wrong or John Deere reissues model numbers after so many years. The JD 2520 was produced from 1968 to 1972 according to Tractor Data. TractorData.com John Deere 2520 tractor attachments information

If you want to avoid a DPF shop for tractors below 25 hp or older than 2014. I had bad experience with a diesel pickup with DPF so I held the line at 25 HP when I bought my new tractor. It's adequate for me.

You have a ten year old machine. If you have the original battery there's a strong possibility it's shot. I went to You Tube to see what I could see and concluded if you cannot raise the bed you cannot replace the battery. Unless there's some way to easily disconnect the hydraulic ram to...

Instead of connecting yourself to the ignition coil try connecting a spark plug. If the body of the spark plug is grounded you should see a spark when you rotate the distributor. If so the points are doing their job. If the distributor cap is cracked or there are any carbon tracks your spark...

Generally new radiators cannot be easily repaired or rebuilt. Stick with what you've got and get it fixed.

Hi, Kyle. Welcome to TBN. If you're seeking business it would be helpful if you modified your profile to tell where you're located.

The three point lowers by gravity so any method to hold it up should work. You may also try slowing the lowering speed to zero by adjusting the valve by your feet.

LS tractor repaired by Massey dealer due to lack of local LS dealers. Does anybody know how to clear the error code?

How does one clear an error message on the computer after repair? LS dealers are few and far between in eastern Washington. The Massey dealer repaired the tractor.

Do you need the whole hub or just bearings?

I suspect your float level is set incorrectly or the needle is sticking.

My rippers push up through their holes from the bottom. A pin goes through to keep them from dropping out. The pin is held in place with a hairpin clip.

You could try a motorcycle chain lubricant. There's also lithium grease in a spray can.

I doubt you'll find what you want in stop leak. I suspect you'd have to empty the tire first then refill with air. The tire itself may have to be dry inside. As I understand stop leak it's mostly for the road contact surface. As the vehicle is driven it spread itself there. I do not believe...

With battery trouble the first step should always be cleaning the battery posts and connectors. When replacing the cables be sure to tighten them securely. Follow the ground cable to the frame. Clean and tighten there. Note - some tractors have paint at this connection point. Paint will not...

Not all Mobil 1 oils are rated for use in diesel engines. Be sure to use the correct one.

Before you go crazy buying relays and such power the light bar with a twelve volt battery through an ammeter. My 240 watt light bar would draw 20 amps if it were really 240 watts. Since it's LED it only draws five amps and no special wiring was required.

Have you given any thought to your budget? Recommendations can vary by price.

With the transmission oil measured in gallons and the engine oil measured in quarts you may see little drop in transmission oil before engine is over filled. It's fairly common for a seal in your hydraulic pump to fail allowing transmission fluid access to the engine. The easy fix is normally...

Just a thought here - alternators frequently have soft carbon brushes. If they wear down (and they do) the alternator output will decrease.

Check that your new points aren't shorted to ground. I used to experience that from time to time when changing them. Rotate the engine to ensure they open and close while watching them. You can even use a test light on that side of the coil and watch it go off and on as you rotate the engine...

Now would probably be a better time than later to replace the pressure tank if you can't get the water out of it. Eliminating it would cause your pump to cycle far more frequently. For irrigating, if you can get enough sprinkler heads on your system you may be able to set it up so the pump...

A wire brush and WD-40 rubbed in should help with the rust. As far as lubricants go I wouldn't use grease or oil because around her dust would gather making the problem worse. I like graphite or molybdenum disulfide for a lubricant. Both are dry powders.

Try adjusting the clutch.

I'd stop by an LS dealership for more information. LS tractors were sold as New Holland among others but you'd have to know which model crosses to what to get parts. The size is nice but with the trouble my neighbor has had getting support for his LS tractor I'd probably shop around a bit...

If you're looking for a tiller a five foot would be a piece of cake and a six foot should present no problem.

If the tractor is new it is indeed a dealer problem. If you bought it used it gets more complicated. I'd start by replacing the flasher itself.

Have you managed to remove the old starter? Is the new one identical? Does your wrench not fit the bolts? See the above post by "Beenthere".

Take it to a vehicle drive line repair shop. I don't mean Auto Zone I mean a place that can actually repair or build a drive line. Locally we have a company called Six States that does that. I don't know where you are but good luck.

You may save yourself some grief taking it to a local hydraulic shop. They will in all likelihood be less expensive than Kubota and probably have options for you.

I know nothing about the model other than a loader was an option. You may be able to locate one at a tractor wrecking yard for that model at a reasonable price. If not there are after market manufacturers. I have had a loader by Koyker which was really nice but there are others such as Woods...

Look the wiring itself over carefully. Mice may chew or eat the insulation off the wires allowing them to short to ground in hard to get to locations.

You could also consider having the trusses professionally built and collecting the rest of the parts as required. That's how most of the pole barn companies do it here.

How did you check the battery? Monitor the voltage as somebody tries to crank the tractor. If it drops below say ten volts it's time to replace it. If it is good you should probably clean the terminals and the cable connectors. Tighten SECURELY when replacing them. Follow the ground cable...

Are you getting any error messages?

In essence I'm saying shoot for the middle. That gives some latitude either way. It's not really an exact measurement.

That's one inch plus or minus two tenths of an inch. I'd shoot for one inch and tweak if needed.

The B and the L series are frame sizes. The numbers are related to horsepower. Tractor Data is a big help. Avoid older "gray market" tractors, parts can be hard to come by. If you'll ever need a loader look only at tractors with loaders. It will be expensive to add one later and possibly...

I don't think Independence Day was belated - perhaps the greeting is. It was typically loud, illegal, and the dog went regularly berserk. In other words pretty normal. Now we await New Years noise.

The hydraulic pump on many tractors is geared off the crankshaft at the front of the engine. If the seal leaks it can permit hydraulic fluid to flow into the engine oil. Monitor your engine oil dipstick. You'll probably notice it there befor you see the hydraulic fluid getting lower.

Do you lose water due to a leak or evaporation? Try to give a little more information.

Did you change the filter or just the oil? Try replacing the oil pressure sensor with a gauge temporarily.

Do you need the complete shaft? If the ends are intact you can buy just the shaft material (inner and outer), assemble into the ends, and cut to length. It's a lot less expensive than a complete drive shaft. I did that when my mower shaft came loose from the tractor and got a few dents in it.

I had that problem with my car. A box of D-Con behind each headlight gave them something to eat besides insulation. Mice gotta eat, too. When the box ran empty they went back to the insulation.

Make sure the air filter is clean and the air path is clear. HOW did you verify the glow plugs are working correctly? Did you verify they're getting power? Frequently the connections at the glow indicator on the dash corrode and you get no power to the glow plugs.

The oil capacity given in the specs is for a new engine. All the oil never drains our unless the engine is disassembled. Go by the dipstick.

Transmission and hydraulic go longer because there's no combustion in those places.

You could begin by finding out if you even NEED to register your tractor for the road. In many states it's not required or even possible as tractors do not have titles or many of the features required of on road vehicles. They are usually on the road only to go from one job to the next not as...

I don't know your steps for engaging the PTO. I leave my tractor at idle and depress the clutch. I then engage the PTO. I let off the clutch and bring the engine up to PTO speed. If you're already doing that and clutch adjustment doesn't help a clutch replacement may be in your future.

I don't know Toro model numbers. Mine has a belt to drive the blade and another to propel the unit. The belt to propel the unit is only good for a couple years before it starts slipping. The two belts are almost but not quite the same length and not cheap from Toro. Get the number off the...

It could be a typo or a misprint. My Kubota manual specified 50 hours.

How is the lever attached? The bolt on which it pivots may be too tight or it may want a little grease. Is something binding there? Is any linkage free to move? Are there any grease fittings along the way? It sounds like mechanical binding so it shouldn't be too bad to fix.

I tried a Google 'Nest 'stat. I didn't like that it would change my settings to "economize" for me, even after I told it not to. It did do wireless at no charge as Google seems to own the internet. Other 'stats may charge a monthly subscription fee for this service. I don't need wireless and...

If you've got most of the water out you should be okay. The filters should trap water and the hot hydraulic fluid should speed its evaporation. Summer temperatures should assist that.

The first step is usually to check for power. Measure your battery voltage. It should be about 12.6. If voltage is good have somebody monitor it while you engage the starter. If it stays the same you're not completing the circuit. Do you hear a click or any noise when trying to start? You...

My L2501 manual specifies an ethylene glycol antifreeze - which is the old fashioned stuff. Anything compatible should work.

In addition to the above suggestions have somebody monitor the actual battery voltage when the starter is engaged. A supposedly good battery can drop to a very low voltage under heavy load to to high internal resistance.

Your radiator is old enough that it should be repairable. Look for a local radiator repair shop.

It sounds like the problem is with the control not the three point itself. Is there something you can adjust or tighten to increase friction on the control so it doesn't flop down so freely?

Good thought, Nepa. Full throttle position acts like a choke on a carbureted engine, kicking in some part of the linkage - I don't recall what it's called but it was in my manual.

I had a Mitsubishi D2510 four cylinder. Without glow plugs it was difficult to start on a hot day (over 100) and not wanting to go at all on a warm day (80 or so). I never checked the compression but at 1500 hours I'm sure it was down a bit. You should have enough compression to run but may...

Your success with either type auger will depend to a large extent to the ground in which you are digging. Either method will only go down by gravity and the weight of the unit. You may need to rent a Bobcat or something similar with the hydraulics to force the auger down.

Are the glow plugs good? Do you have voltage to them? How did you "prime it up"? There's a specific sequence for bleeding the air out of the fuel lines. Did you replace the fuel filter? Is the fuel turned on?

One must evaluate need before considering a generator at all. I've been in this house about twenty years. It's an all electric home with a pump in the well to consider. I've had three power outages in that time, none of which lasted over two hours. I decided I don't NEED a generator.

I got a Pat's Quick Hitch for my tractor. You can buy it in Cat 1 or Cat 2. Mine is Cat 1. I appreciate it for its ability to take different width implements. With most quick hitches all implements must be close to the same width. There is a down side. I did have to extend the length of my...

The shortened shaft should be fine. Just remember to cut the same amount from each half.

The shop should have resources to locate what will work. My Mitsubishi's Bendix went bad. My local shop found a new starter with Bendix for only about $50 more than just the Bendix. The new starter was made in Mexico. Mitsubishi used pretty standard parts.

Follow JWR's advice. 2013 was before Tier 4 requirements kicked in so you may be alright. Look the muffler over for sensors and wires then go shopping from there. $700 for a basic muffler seems a bit pricey even for Kubota.

You can try jacking up the loader then blocking or securing it in some manner in that position. It could weigh 600 pounds or more. You may be able to block the linkage in the up position or secure with tie down straps. The electrical is unlikely to be the lights and flashers running...

I would start by making sure the float is adjusted within limits and the needle valve is free to move, not sticking.

Does the starter really continue to run after the engine starts or does the Bendix fail to disengage? These are two separate issues. Replacing the starter may fix one of them but not the other. Take the time to identify the problem before throwing money in possibly the wrong direction.

I had a Mitsubishi tractor. The dipstick was on the right side of the engine near the back and low enough it could reach into the oil pan.

You're getting some good suggestions. You might also check the condition of the brushes. They could be worn out.

Seals generally have a number. It's the same from manufacturer to manufacturer. Kubota doesn't make seals. Try a seal catalog or even eBay using that number for a search.

You may want to check the timing, point gap, etc.

Do you have any diesel shops nearby - that is that work on semis and stuff? They may be able to rebuild your injectors or find a cross reference for them.

Are you aware there is a belt to move the tractor which is separate from the one that drives the blades? Check the path carefully.

Take one or both alternators to an alternator repair shop and have them checked. This would likely be a shop that can work on them not your local auto parts store.

If your primary use for a tractor is moving dirt and gravel the skid steer may be your best option. If you have other tasks in mind the skid steer may not be appropriate for them. Perhaps you could rent a skid steer or have someone do that work for you.

I don't know Mahindra. Is the voltage regulator part of the alternator or a separate unit?

Do not continue running the tractor, if the oil gets too full it can destroy the engine as pistons attempt to compress it. The likely culprit is a leak in your hydraulic pump which allows transmission oil into the crankcase. Pump replacement is generally a pretty easy task of you're at all...

If they're the ones I'm thinking of I just replaced mine with irrigation drip line parts. There's really no pressure on them. That tractor was a Mitsubishi D2350 if it makes a difference.

I don't envy you. You will need to support the front half and the back half and have the ability to move one piece away when you do the actual split. The tractor's only about 25 years old so you might want to investigate other potential repairs.

The same principles apply. You could try a jumper with a bulb in series to limit current then try to determine if it's a front or rear turn signal by powering one at a time from the switch. After that it's a matter of actually locating the short.

I opted for my L2501 Kubota to avoid the extra diesel pollution stuff and the computer that goes with it. I prefer simple. I've only got ten acres and the biggest implement I've got is my five foot brush hog which works well with 25 horsepower and only 20 at the PTO. Watch the loader...

Almost anything is possible, it's just time and money. You will be looking at rims as well as tires for the rear. If your tractor is 4WD you will need to replace front tires and rims as well to keep the circumference ratios the same. You will need to calculate this ratio with your existing setup.

You could try disconnecting the horn itself to see if it's shorted. I doubt the relay is the problem. You may have a mouse or rubbing problem which has caused a bare spot and is shorting directly to ground when the horn button is pressed. Try replacing the fuse with a twelve volt light bulb...

Continuing with the above thought, even if the run lead is getting power it's possible that winding is defective and not holding the valve open. Make sure you're getting full voltage and go from there.

You should have plenty of tractor for a five foot mower. Rule of thumb is five PTO horsepower for every foot of mower. How does your tractor pull the hill withe the PTO disengaged? Does the mower turn freely or is something binding? Are you getting the full 540 RPM at the PTO? PTO speed is...

Your battery is defective, the connections are dirty or loose, or you have not satisfied one of the safety switches. You are going to have to troubleshoot this, there is no magic cure.

If the levers are positioned properly is it possible the sensor switches are out of adjustment? It's also possibly a bad sensor wire or a switch failure. Finding the switch physical locations can be a challenge.

Clean and tighten battery connections. Do not neglect the frame ground. Charge battery fully. Check voltage. Have someone monitor voltage while start is attempted or have battery load tested.

My neighbor put quite a bit of that down. If it's rolled and compacted really well hot summer days should cause the residual tar or whatever they used to melt somewhat and bind it again though not as nice as original.

A long time ago many auto oil filters were cartridges, then "everybody" went to spin on. Some have gone back to cartridge like my 2022 Chrysler. Take your filter to your local NAPA dealer to see if something current uses that size.

If you have the HST transmission UDT is strongly recommended. If you have any other transmission I suspect any good grade of hydraulic oil would be fine.

Around here the electric company locates electric lines, cable company cable lines, irrigation and gas the same thing. I've not asked any of them to locate other lines I just know if I call 811 I can expect company.

You may not be able to get there from here. Did Kubota even offer a mower deck for that tractor? Tractor Data does not show it as an accessory. Due to the vintage you'll probably have a difficult time finding one in ANY condition, salvage or functional. TractorData.com Kubota B6100 tractor...

Is 16la the tractor model or the loader? It sounds like the loader model. If your tractor has manual steering check the front tire air pressure. If it has power steering check the steering fluid level.

If difficult steering is your issue be sure your front tires are at full pressure. This will help with cars and trucks with manual steering, too.

In my case I think it has to do with major health issues and aging. I was that way after my stroke when talking about going back to work. (I did go back to work as an electrician.) I've heard a heart attack will change people, too.

It depends on the location of the air leak. If it's the gasket between the engine halves it will take an overhaul. That's probably affordable if you do it but not to pay for shop time.

Once upon a time I had that issue with a Volvo 144. I solved it with a basic three tab 5 volt regulator. With a little heat sink it was good for 1.5 amps, way more than needed for a couple of gauges. You could do some testing with a power supply and a rheostat but most gauges are full scale...

If you need a new indicator / dropping resistor I purchased one awhile back on eBay. My biggest problem was finding one for a four cylinder tractor. It seems most diesels are three cylinder.

If you plan to move it you may want to consider pressure treated 4 X 6 skids running the length of the building as kind of a "foundation".

See if you're glow plug indicator is getting power in, then see if it's getting power out. Many older tractor used it as a dropping resistor to lower the battery voltage to the 10.5 volts required by the glow plugs. The nichrome wire tends to corrode at the terminals. These ends can be...

The best way to test the battery would probably be to fully charge it then put it on a load tester. Even a new battery can have the proper voltage but be bad. It has to do with the internal resistance of the battery which you can't measure. If you have not done so you should also clean and...

You may have lost the prime to the pump. Be sure you have fluid on the intake side (hydraulic return) of the pump. Sucking air or running without prime can destroy the pump on some Mitsubishi models.

Insufficient data. What happens when you turn the key? Do you get any lights? Will the starter turn the engine over? What checks have you already made such as battery voltage? Hint - good is not informational. Have you cleaned and tightened cables and connectors? How about the ground...

The first thing to try is probably disconnecting the engine end. You may be able to pull the cable out of the sheath. If you can do this you can probably lube the cable, reinsert it, and put it back together with no further issues.

Just a theory here - if your posts have flat tops and you get rain the paint may help hold moisture in the posts instead of allowing them to dry naturally. I cut the tops of posts at about a fifteen degree angle to prevent standing water.

Check the lever used to raise the three point. Many have adjustable up or down stops. You may need only to adjust the stop.

If you can't figure out how to make the noise happen and reliably replicate it there's little sense paying the dealer to fix what ain't broken. Chances are it will never malfunction for them to troubleshoot. Intermittent problems seem to know when to behave.

I've got Pat's Cat 1 on my L2501. I love the thing after some improvements. Your PTO shaft may be too short after installing Pat's (mine was). After buying a new one I learned you can purchase just the shaft material and reuse the original ends. You may lose the nuts off the U bolts. Add a...

I can't say it's the same for all newer tractors or even other John Deere tractors. Many still use the glow plug position on the ignition key and some have an automatic glow plug controller and a light on the dash to monitor.

I've not replaced a bucket on anything. I do advise caution as sometimes the weight of the original bucket alone can be near the front frame carrying capacity of the tractor regardless of how much weight you put on the rear. A larger bucket payload could easily exceed the frame limit. Learn...

Great trick, thanks for sharing.

Does it have any safety interlocks?

The door should already have springs at the top - probably two. One could be broken. They are hazardous to work with as they're under tension and you need a couple bars to adjust them. Contact a garage door guy as any assist you add needs the springs to be in place and properly adjusted...

Are you using the original voltage regulator or did you get a GM regulator as well? The original regulator may not be able to handle the new alternator.

Since depressing the pedal doesn't rotate the mechanism you need to figure out why. Perhaps you could have someone work the pedal while you watch underneath to find out what's slipping and why.

It is definitely possible for water to collect in a filter and prevent passage of the desired fluid. Been there, done that. In my case it was a fuel filter with the same result. I replaced the filter and never experienced the problem again. Weird.

If it's an NGK controller with an NGK part number you may be able to buy it for far less from NGK

A lighter oil may help cold weather starts. If you've load tested the battery clean connectors and cable ends reinstalling TIGHTLY. Look carefully for signs of corrosion around the connectors. Clean and tighten ground contact at frame.

I had a Koyker 120 on my Mitsubishi. Great loader and great support from Koyker.

I had that problem with my 2012 Dodge Charger. They ate my headlight wires. I stashed a box of D-Con behind each headlight. Problem solved.

You might try Sea Foam. Mix about 50/50 with gasoline and run the engine for a few minutes to be sure the mix has worked into the carb. Shut it off and leave it sit overnight or even another day. Now see how it performs. This can clean out some tiny passages in the carb. I've had good luck...

Is the PTO really engaged? Or does it just spin from the fluid movement inside the transmission? My Mitsubishi did that but I never bothered to fix it. If an implement was connected it didn't spin.

I had skunks set up housekeeping next to the chicken pen. I hung a couple flood lights by the carport controlled by a sunlight sensing switch. Within a week the skunks had gone house hunting elsewhere.

The starters I've seen get their ground from the frame of the tractor itself - no ground wire. Have you considered pushing or pulling it to start?

The first thing to do is locate the serial number. According to Tractor Data it's on the right side behind the starter. TractorData.com Ford 2600 tractor information

You might want to check the timing if you've not already done so. Have the pressure checked on the rebuilt pump - it may be low.

If you can get it apart part numbers are usually printed right on seals and bearings. They are generic numbers not brand specific.

I would probably have taken the original into a local starter repair shop. If not economical to repair it they would have found the correct replacement. My local shop fixed me up with a replacement for my Mitsubishi tractor - worked like a charm.

I agree with Halftrack - make the repair shop your first stop.

I know nothing about this but would it be possible to rig something to the three point? It may be more substantial than the front loader.

I don't have a source for your wheel but you could try installing an inner tube for the time being.

Regardless of voltage I'd be prone to measure the battery box and get the biggest one that would fit. Remember to check the height for the terminals and their configuration so cables will be long enough.

How much hydraulic pressure is it supposed to have? Did the dealer give you a tested number or just check it and say it's okay? Be sure the three point is not in the full up position, that can cause it to go into bypass mode reducing hydraulic power. If that's the case your rockshaft is...

I don't know the tractor but that seems really low hours for an eleven year old tractor. You might inquire how that happened. I believe 2014 or later is when they went to tier four. If it's got a DPF that will tell the tale.

Measure battery voltage - should be 12.6 volts or so. Keeping voltmeter on battery have someone attempt to start while watching voltmeter. It will drop but should not go below 10 volts or so. If it does drop lower you have a bad battery or charger issues. If it does not drop clean terminals...

Do you by chance have the three point in the full up position? That can put it into the bypass mode if your rock shaft is incorrectly adjusted. Try lowering the three point just a smidge and see if that helps - assuming your hydraulic reservoir is full.

Great solution. I'd never heard of it. Thanks for sharing.

Pretty cool and it also saves grinding damage to the edge of the bucket.

I think my shed is 8 X 14 with no protection from north or south winds (the worst here). It has an OSB floor with "stuff" on it. We have winds up to forty or fifty miles an hour. After twenty years or so the roof is shingles are starting to go away - needs a new roof - but the building itself...

If you've already bought I think it's too late for due diligence. Stihl still tends to be a good brand but I don't like the micro chain on their smaller ones. I think the smaller Echo saws are a better choice.

Consider what you'll do with your soffits. My son solved his squirrel problem by having concrete siding installed in that area. Manlift type will vary by terrain. The inexpensive small ones don't do well at all off road. They can't get traction on a lawn or gravel driveway. A bucket truck...

You could try a local hydraulic shop for repair or replacement of your existing cylinder.

I lean toward Kubota because I love mine. My neighbor got an LS (they make New Holland) due to the price. It's pretty much up to you. In any case go 25 horsepower or less and avoid the computerized pollution eliminating stuff to keep your tractor simple. My L2501 seems perfect for my ten acres.

Clean all connections and have the battery load tested. It's possible to have a battery at full voltage still unable to do its job. Watch your terminal voltage as someone tries to crank the tractor.

Check in with Home - BoltOnHooks LLC. They deal in quality stuff and solve tractor problems - they're very approachable and a small company.

If you've had that computer since 1997 I have serious doubts it is able to run Windows 11 and it should not have been able to complete the "upgrade". For that matter I'm not sure Dell was even making computers in 1997 and unless you've added the SSD more recently it's really confusing as there...

Has the indicator ever illuminated? How old is the tractor? In older tractors that indicator was actually a coil of resistance wire which dropped the twelve volt supply to about 10.5 for the glow plugs. If you lost contact your glow plugs couldn't heat. Newer tractors have a controller in...

A head gasket replacement does not REQUIRE an engine teardown if all you want is to replace the gasket. There are gasket sets for doing a top end teardown without going "all the way". Be prepared to spend a day in the shop but the job is generally not that bad. The problem is all the...

My best guess is your throwout bearing is shot. It will only make the noise when depressing the clutch as that's the only time pressure is applied to it.

If you have the old seal look for a number on it. That will be the same for whoever manufactures the seal. If the seal is not discontinued anyplace that sells seals (even eBay) should be able to get one.

https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/010/5/1/10510-iseki-tl4201.html

You could do a web search for tractor roll bars (ROPS). I found this one but I've seen others. ROPS - Roll Over Protection System & Structure | Superior Tube Products

The last time I needed an oddball starter I went to a local starter repair shop. It wasn't as odd as I thought. The shop ordered a replacement and I had it in a week. It was made in Mexico instead of Japan but it fit and worked fine.

The cheapest way to play with brazing is with a MAPP gas setup. You can braze light stuff without the oxygen. Remember, brazing is not welding. It is more akin to soldering and flux will definitely be required though you can get rods with flux on them. You may also consider silver soldering...

Your tractor is rated at 24.5 PTO horsepower which is actually enough for a five foot brush hog. The only concern with the four foot unit would be the weight of the implement versus the weight of the tractor - kind of a tail wagging the dog thing. TractorData.com Massey Ferguson GC1725M...

I believe most of the canned air was discontinued because most of the companies used Freon which is reputed to destroy the ozone layer. Perhaps you could look into small bottles of compressed nitrogen - probably from a gas supplier.

Take it to the local hydraulic shop. They have the experience and the tools as well as the ability to tell you if any other parts are required.

When looking for weird stuff I frequently start with eBay. If the shaft on your Makita is too small perhaps you could get a sleeve to go between it and the pulley. Of course if it's too large you could simply drill the center of the pulley to fit.

If the engine starts (and it probably will) expect a cloud of smoke until the oil burns out of the cylinders.

If it fits in the mount try it, it will probably work fine. Both are pretty simple tractors.

Charge battery then have it load tested. It sounds like you may have high internal resistance (bad battery). If it's fine clean battery terminals and cable ends then tighten them securely - if you can move them they're not tight. Clean and tighten battery ground connection at frame.

Is the solenoid separate from the starter? How much power is actually arriving at the starter? The high current inside the solenoid can pit the contacts preventing full current flow.

Did you ask the local hydraulic shop what they could suggest for replacement or if they could replace the shaft?

Cleaning and tightening battery connections was a good thought. Check the way the connections are attached to the cables. Sometimes corrosion will happen inside and the cable has essentially failed. How many volts is the battery putting out when cranking? How many volts are actually getting...

Some equipment does not use twelve volts for the instruments. Check your schematic, there may be a five volt (or thereabouts) regulator in their supply line.

One side of my bench grinder is for grinding, I put a wire wheel on the other side. I later purchased a belt sander with a disc sander on it. They range in size in price depending on what you're after. Amazon carries a lot of stuff but shop around, they're not always the best deal. Home Depot...

According to TractorData it is made by Mahindra as is the engine. https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/011/3/0/11302-mahindra-5155.html

Ham radio operator here - Extra Class. I was Advanced when they dropped the code requirement I tested for the next level. I was originally licensed as a Novice in 1960.

What, specifically, is not engaging? Does your three point move up at the proper speed? If you have your three point lever all the way up it can cause your other hydraulics (loader, etc.) to slow WAY down. Moving it off the full up position may solve your problem. If that's it your rock...

Contact NGK via the internet. They'll fix you right up,

Of course it could be a seal or dirty bearing but I'd be more inclined to believe somehow water has gotten in there and frozen or you have snow turned to ice jammed up on the outside. Look it over outside for the obvious. If you can get it inside to thaw it will probably work fine.

The coolant could be evaporating if the tractor is running hot. My Mitsubishi had no catch tank on the radiator to keep the coolant in when it got hot. Newer tractors do have this tank and the plumbing to handle it. As far as the flooding check the float level in the carburetor. Make sure...

The outside circumference of the tire should be the same. If it is not the same you can damage the tractor.

You might consider a light coat of WD-40. It is not a lubricant, its purpose is water displacement. In addition to spray cans you can purchase it by the gallon.

Amazon and Quaker State are the only two I recognized on that clip. I don't use either and like Willy I've never heard of the rest.

I don't know Mahindra but my Kubota manual makes it clear there is NO warranty on the clutch. Check your owner's manual.

In addition to increasing the lifting ability of the loader you should determine how much weight the frame of the tractor itself is designed to handle. It would be a shame to lift the larger load only to destroy the tractor frame.

Purchase some spools of good quality insulation stranded copper wire after determining the wire sizes you need. You rarely need anything bigger than number fourteen and number sixteen will probably work for most of it. You can even invent your own color code or do the whole thing in one color...

I'm not familiar with that model but when engaging the PTO the engine should be at idle. If your gears still clash your clutch may need adjusted. After the PTO is engaged you may bring it up to speed.

Check out the linkage, especially underneath. You could have snow packed around the linkage. It could be further complicated by melting then freezing around the linkage.

You may not be getting enough current through the wiring to maintain engagement between the starter and the flywheel. There is also the possibility that when your starter engages the flywheel to crank the engine then just spins you may be missing one or more teeth on the ring gear around the...

Disconnect the wires from the safety switch. Connect an ohmmeter instead. Check the resistance - zero or infinite. Operate the equipment to activate the switch. Does the resistance change? If not the problem is not the switch. It's possibly plunger activated and you may not have enough...

You should be able to have new hoses made at a local hydraulic shop. The can probably also offer options for quick disconnects. As far as the tractor goes, try this TractorData.com Ford 3500 industrial tractor information

The best way might be to rent a trencher. If you have a box blade you could extend the center tooth to rip the ground then shovel to remove dirt for the actual ditch.

The reason for larger wire is to reduce voltage drop with distance. The length of the cables needs to be considered as well. The voltage drop in the cable is the product of the resistance of the cable multiplied by the current flowing at that time. Any resistance due to corrosion at the...

Try it in a lower range. When a clutch slips you usually lose the higher gears first. Check your clutch adjustment. You should have about an inch of free play on the clutch pedal before it begins to disengage.

At a guess it appears the terminal strip itself is defective. The screws themselves may have bee tight but the connections themselves loose inside the terminals.

Any place that does drive shafts would probably work. They can even balance it.

I'll go along with TxJim. Be sure your three point lever is not quite in the full up position. If that solves your problem your rock shaft probably needs adjusted.

Find out if the lift in question is certified and by whom. Your concrete should be thick enough for the lift. Personally I'm looking at having a 10,000 pound two post lift installed.

The LA304 is the appropriate Kubota brand loader. Others may fit with some adaptation. There are also after market loaders such as Koyker available. Due to cost and labor your best bet if you need a loader is to purchase a tractor with a loader already installed. Loaders are not cheap unless...

I like to leave the loader with all cylinders retracted so bare cylinders are not exposed to air, dirt, water, or whatever. I will drop the three point, turn off the tractor, then move the lever back where it was. This way the load is off but I don't need to remember to raise it before moving...