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With my backhoe that would mean the boom sticking straight up in the air.

If you have rust pits you might try applying phosphoric acid after sanding or wire brushing them. It will turn the remaining surface rust into iron phosphate and passivate the surface, slowing down future rust. I don't see anything wrong with using grease on exposed rods, just wipe it off...

A secondary frame that reinforces the tractor. You can add one to any tractor. Example:

That's what the first pic looks like to me, the bucket is digging into the ground after going off the driveway. I'd guess he had a good head of steam going, (maybe the tires are loaded as well which would increase the force), had the bucket angled down which then plunged into the ground when it...

I had no idea a whole driveshaft was that cheap.

All valid concerns. He's a retired machinist and knows how to measure accurately and understands the tolerances involved. It would take replacing the 2 yokes for a different U-Joint, not just one, which is obviously more expensive.

He decided to go with the Moog external snap ring joint I linked in the first post and will either use the old caps with the new cross, needles and seals or use it as is and tack weld some washers on the outside to act as external snap rings to keep it in place.

Good point. All true though I have a friend who is a retired machinist will all the tools and experience needed. However I agree that reaming the yoke makes much more sense. We just have to verify that the internal yoke lock up distance will work with one of the possible metric U-joints...

Or I could turn the caps down to 1.25 on a lathe.

I was wondering about getting that Moog external U-Joint with the same cross dimensions but using the old internal clip caps on it. The bearing surfaces on the old caps still look good, maybe polish them on a lathe. Or find new needle bearings for the old joint.

I'm trying to help a friend find a replacement U-joint for an old brush mower, don't know the brand, and I can't find a match for all the dimensions. It has internal snap rings, 1.25" diameter caps, 3.7" cap to cap length, 2.94" cross length, 2.27" snap ring distance, and the only markings on it...

If you put the pieces back together and put a straight edge on it is it straight? Wonder if it got bent somehow which might explain the uneven movement and subsequent breakage.

There is probably a hole or notch where you can't see it.

I got that resistor on Amazon but it did not come with 2 sets of screws as advertised, it came with one set that was too small and was metric. The terminal posts were also metric and larger than the originals. So I had to drill out the mounting holes, use a dremel tool to move them farther...

The description for this Sparex resistor says it replaces both the A and B resistors and makes it seem as if the only difference is the mounting screws, and it includes both sizes. Voltage Resistor (Ignition Coil Ballast) for Ford 9N 2N 8N Tractors w/ Front Distributor Found it cheaper on Amazon...

Randomly clicking through the pics on the 9N registry shows all of them with right mounted generator like mine. 9N & 2N Ford Tractor Registry

9N 1320

These descriptions of the A and B versions say they relate to which side the generator is mounted on, B is left side for 9n/2N, A is right side for 8N: https://www.steinertractor.com/FDS263-Resistor-Assembly https://www.steinertractor.com/FDS264-Resistor-Assembly The problem is mine is right...

I put a jumper across the resistor terminals and got good spark. From what I've read I think I need the B version of the resistor, Ford A8NN-12250-B Amazon.com: New DB Electrical Resistor IFD6000 Compatible with/Replacement for Ford A8NN-12250-B, New Holland 87056840 Ford 2N, 9N Tractors ...

This is the one I bought, (only one, not 25). 25 PCS Heavy Duty Toggle Switch 20/15A 125/277V, 2 HP with Waterproof Rubber Boot UL cUL Certified - - Amazon.com The tractor has either been inside or covered by a tarp. I guess if the contacts aren't copper, brass, or plated they could have...

I did replace it 2 or 3 years ago with what I thought was a good quality toggle switch but maybe it wasn't.

I'm trying to get it running so I can sell it but otherwise yes I'd probably do that. Some progress, hot wired the coil and got consistent spark, took off the hot wire and still had consistent spark, so turned on the fuel and it started right up. Died after a few minutes. Hot wired again and...

All the reviews on this kit from Tractor supply are 1 star :oops: I'll be avoiding that one. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/tisco-tune-up-kit-atk6ffr

Are the Tractor Supply ones any good? That's probably the closest source for me, maybe NAPA would have them too.

It's a 6-12 volt probe with a point on one end and a cable with an alligator clip on the other and a light in the clear plastic handle. I put the clip on the top post of the coil and put the probe to ground, when the ignition switch is on and the points are open it lights up and when you crank...

So when I was reading the coil voltage while cranking and it dipped to 2.5V that was too low, or is it not accurate while cranking it?

What readings should I get?

6 Volt positive ground system, parked it about a month ago, now it will only fire for a second if at all. Put a clamp on timing light on the plug wires and only occasionally get a flash when cranking. Put a test light between the coil and ground, it lights when the ignition is on and flashes...

In case anyone needs one I found a good replacement shifter boot for the Iseki TL 2101 FD, should fit other models as well. It's a good fit and it's fairly thick material, should last. Amazon.com: 1694127M3 New Gear Shift Boot Made for Massey Ferguson Tractor Models 36 362 +: Industrial &...

Trying to find what pressure the hydraulic system is supposed to run at for this tractor. I have a log splitter plumbed into the power beyond port from the Koyker 155 loader on the tractor and it's not performing as I expected.