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I'm here to eat some crow! Uncle Charlie was right! I'm so happy he was since I now don't need to remove the starter. I decided to move the cables around when I had the starter button pushed, and it started. I think what is happening was the solenoid has one small wire going to it that was...

I put new terminals on the cables. I have a crimping tool that does a nice job. This tractor sat a long time before I got it. The starter is probably corroded inside. One thing I've experienced over the years is a machine that has been sitting any length of time, the starter will probably give...

Thanks guys for the ideas. I don't have another hydraulic supply, or room to get another machine near it except from the rear. I do have a JD 855 I could haul 60 miles to pull it out of it's spot, but that's not my 1st choice. It could end up being my only one. I could then tow it out of there...

Mikey, I like your idea. Being there by myself, I would tap, then walk around to the other side of the tractor to push the starter button, to get the clunk. That evolved to using the wood end of a 5lb hammer, giving it a solid rap. I'll tone down the blows. The hydraulics for the loader prevent...

What I'm hoping for is to knock it off it's bad spot kinda like beating on it might. If it cranks just an instant it might start then in 12volts, and I can move it to work on it in a better spot. I parked it where it is because there is no covered area for it, and it is covered with a tarp next...

I've been trying to think of anything to get that starter off it's bad spot. Banging on it didn't work. I'm wondering if I set another battery on it, and using jumpers hit the starter with 24 volts for a second. I've used 12 volts on a 6 volt starter to make it spin faster, has anyone tried this...

Maybe a box end wrench that ratchets could work if it's short and will ratchet just a little at a time. Who makes that?

I didn't think it was the solenoid because I had 12.7 volts from the battery to the solenoid, and shorting across those 2 poles on the starter resulted in nothing, but I did bump ground once doing that, and sparks flew. I was hitting the starter hard with the handle end of a 5 lb hammer with no...

Re-installing a starter looks to be a problem, if I ever get this bad one out. Getting the top bolt started back in looks harder than getting it out. Especially with the loader on it.

I put a new battery in it, and cleaned, and added new terminals last summer. It started without a hitch every time. The power to the starter isn't interrupted with any starting attempt. The connections are good. I'm as sure as I can be the starter went bad. Raising the bucket doesn't help with...

The tractor has been sitting all winter, and now it won't turn over. The solenoid gives a loud clunk, but that is all I get. No hint of a starter problem before this. The battery is good at 12.7V at the starter. Tried shorting across the posts on the starter, and got nothing, so I'm thinking the...

When I was looking it over before I paid for it, we noticed one blade was not in line with the other. I figured it was stuck but not completely froze the last time it was used, and had moved. I couldn't move it by hand(either blade). At the time I thought I'd remove the blades and clean, and...

Are you saying not to remove the blades, and just break them loose? I don't know too much about sharpening the blades other than to only sharpen one side, and not to get it too sharp. The blades on this machine are very blunt, but don't have nicks in them that I noticed. The way they are, it...

I just bought it yesterday off facebook, and now reading about what I bought here, I see many things I should have checked 1st. The brush hog is located where I'm going to use it, which is not where I live. I knew the blades are stuck, and won't rotate, but it does spin freely. The owner said it...

Thanks Jim, that is helpful. The more info I get helps complete the picture.

I have a 4212, but it isn't helping me with the crank pulley. I asked a John Deere mechanic at a Kenworth/JD dealer and he said to use the crank pulley, then check that the #1 valves are closed when on the mark. The pulley has the marks I mentioned, but I'm not seeing anything about it in the...

I'm finding it hard to find time for working on this tractor, it has been on the back burner. I finally removed the radiator so I could see the crank pulley. It has a U mark, it also could be a lightly stamped 0. Advanced quite far from that is an S and very close but further advanced to that S...

I need to get the broken IP driveshaft out of the engine. I removed the nut and washer along with the spring and cap, but it is a keyed, tapered shaft. How do I get it out? No room to swing a hammer with the radiator so close. Thanks

I'm thinking the same thing, except it was an estate sale where the original owner was deceased. I think he was an invalid for a long time before he passed, that was why it sat so long, then got the attempt at running, then sat another 10 years. I say this because the break on the IP driveshaft...

I removed the oil pan, but I can't tell much because I can't rotate the engine with the IP off. I may put it back on. One thing is someone had it off before, and put it back on with a ton of silicone and no gasket. Makes me wonder why it was taken off.

When cranking the engine, it sounds even. Not like a cylinder has compression loss. If the knock was bad, would I be able to hear it from compression loss? I don't think it will knock unless it's running. How do you test compression on this engine?

I'm mechanically inclined, but not a mechanic. I know my son could be correct, and definitely is correct if the bottom end is knocking. I have thought about pulling the pan and checking it. I think I could tell if one was loose. Thinking that it should be done now that the IP is in such bad...

I tried to time the IP before I removed it, but it didn't move in the timing window. I then thought something was broken inside, so I took off the 2 nuts holding it on, and pulled the IP off the shaft. Not seeing how that shaft connected to the pump, I watched a You Tube video on R&R and...

I was going to try adding the ford type solenoid so that when power went to the solenoid on the starter, it also went to the add on solenoid which would send the power to the starter. I would have the exciter wire go to each solenoid. I was not certain it would power each, and if not I would...

"thepumpguysc" was very helpful, and I know what I need to do, but I have to get the tractor to turn over with the starter, which quit working. There was fuel slowly dripping off the fuel filter connection. It landed on a wiring harness which ran across the starter, then dripped off on the...

I'm a little bit afraid that I might take the top off and still not be able to fix the problem, or worse create another. Hopefully someone sees this that has been down this road. Thanks

Has anyone encountered the stuck metering valve in the IP, and can tell me what to look for when I remove the cap and the procedure. Sorry but I probably need my hand held on this. Thanks

There was a small amount of water in the tank along with rust. Condensation brought in the water. I figured that was to be expected with how long this tractor was sitting. I had heard about algae in diesel, but have no experience with it until now. About the sticking metering valve.....how do...

I removed the tank and dumped it out. This tractor was never taken care of. Dirt was packed over the hydraulic pump and under the tank and radiator. I cleaned all that out while waiting for parts. I will add the fuel conditioner. Does the algae settle to the bottom of the filter bowls and remain...

Hello, I bought this tractor at an auction so there is no known history except what is dismantled and missing. I don't have any experience with tractor repair and I'm stuck. I believe the tractor has not been run in over 10 years. Electrical connections everywhere were corroded. The fuel pump...