05 or 06 2544 CC

[ovg]

A local CC dealer has one 05 2544 left and is asking $2700. Is there any reason for me to wait and get an 06. Does anyone know if there will be enough model year changes to justify waiting and/or paying 06 prices which I expect will be higher. I have about 1.5 acres of level grass to cut and will rarely need to use it for anything else.

 

[DmansPadge]

That sounds like a good deal to me. If that is what you want I would jump on it. MSRP is $3299 and I read a post by Gamble77 earlier that the LT1046 is going up $100 this year. I don't know if they are all increasing for '06 but either way I think $2700 is a great deal.

 

[gamble77]

That is a good price for that machine however, the series 2000 machines will be all new for 2006. They will have the one piece hoods like on the 1000 series, quieter mufflers, better turning radius, and much nicer seats. They will of course go up in price to an extent. Next years new GT2544 will retail for $3,399.00.

If you like the machine I would jump on that deal. If you think you will like the one peice hood and will need the better turning radius then I would wait. As far as the seat goes you could always just but a new one like will come on the 2006 2000 series and put if on your 2005 model. Good luck and keep us posted!

 

[JTKub]

I paid $2999 for my 2544 in April 2005. $2700 is a pretty good deal. I like my 2544, but for a few hundred more dollars, would recommend holding off for a 2006 for the increased leg room and more user friendly hood.

Joel

 

[ovg]

Thanks for the replies. I bought the 2005. The dealer's 2006 book said the new 2544 would have 1 more HP, the one piece hood and the seat change. He didn't mention a tighter turning radius but I don't need that anyway. He showed me the hood on a 1500 (I believe) which was hinged at the rear and lifted by gas struts and said that was what the 2006 2500s would have. It didn't look like it opened high enough to get good access to the engine to me. Not even close to the access on the 1000 series. I have him installing a bagger and I'll pick it up in a couple of days.
I did notice the loose headlight bulb sockets and the harness runs down the right side of the nose panel and disappears under the right side of the block. There is a heat shield over the exhaust pipe and muffler and one that is intended to keep heat off the left head lamp. Does anybody have a link to a fix for protecting the harness from heat damage or should I just get something to cover the wires from the lamps all the way back? TIA.

 

[JTKub]

Congrats on the purchase! You got a great machine for the money. There are lots of posts in regards to the headlamp wiring issue. The main thing is to ensure the wiring is tucked away from the exhaust. Electrical tape and wire ties work. The main thing on the 2006's is the supposed increase in legroom behind the wheel. We wont know the actual hood/under hood layout until the 2006's start to show up in the showrooms in another ~6-8wks.

G/luck
Joel

 

[ovg]

Question. I have to move the throttle handle 2/3rds of it's travel before the RPMs start to increase from idle and from that position to full throttle doesn't seem to increase the RPMs that much more. The first few times I operated the PTO, it immediately stalled the engine so I suspect it is not running at the RPM it should be. I need to put a tach on it to see what I have at full throttle but does this sound normal for a new one or do I need to do some adjusting? TIA.

 

[gamble77]

Kohlers are great motors, but if I ever have one complaint about a Kohler motor it is that the throttle is too touchy. Don't know what else to tell you, you might can try to play with the linkage and see if it improves any. The PTO issue could just be a tight belt, new spindles, etc. What RPM are you using to engage the deck?

 

[ovg]

gamble77, the throttle lever has to be in the WOT position when I engage the PTO. Even then, the engine nearly stalls until the blades start to spin up. The Operator's Manual says to engage the PTO when the throttle is in the mid throttle position and then to advance to "full engine speed". I assume that is to ease the shock of engagement on the PTO clutch and the drive belt. It stalls 100% of the time if I do it like the book says. I need to put a tach on it to see what RPM I have when the throttle lever is in the WOT position. At that position, I don't think the engine is running at the RPM it is supposed to be (3600RPM no load according to the Cub specs). As I said in my previous post, the first 2/3rds of the throttle lever travel doesn't increase the engine speed at all. That's why I think it may be an throttle cable adjustment problem. Full throttle speed may be a combination of the high speed adjustment and governor sensitivity although the governor spring is the correct color (purple) and in the correct hole setting (2nd) in the governor arm according to the Kohler service manual. I'll play with it and see what happens. I was just wondering if anyone else had been through this before so I didn't have to "recreate the wheel". TIA for any advice/insight.

 

[JTKub]

ovg, the 'throttle' is very touchy on my 2005 2544 as well. You can basically get idle, fast idle and I assume max governed speed (rabbit /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif). Anything in between is tough even though the darn thing has a couple inches of travel. No big deal anyway as you need to run at max governed speed for cutting grass and working the hydro. The 'new-school' carbs only run right at WOT anyway. You can smell it with the kohler command twins. The exhaust smells rich if you let it sit there and put-put away idle, they only get a clean burn at max speed. As far as the stalling thing goes on yours on PTO engagement, are you sure the engine is fully warmed? Mine takes a good minute or two of fast to full speed to warm up enough to engage the PTO or it will stall. Yet another feature of today's carbs. I basically run my 2544 at full speed all the time. I fast idle it until it warms, then WO she goes. I shut it down instead of idling it.

G/luck
Joel