1020 gas electrical problem

[jjaaam]

1967 JD 1020 gas. My son was using it with no problems. He stopped and turned it off so he could move some sticks out of the way. Got back on and it wouldn’t start. Wouldn’t even try to turn over - completely dead.

I got a meter and I’m getting 12v to the ignition switch. Checked continuity on all switch positions and the switch is good.

Its weird. The lights won’t work at all either. If I turn the ignition switch to ACC you can see the oil pressure light come on and the fuel gage needle bumped up, but no lights. If I cycle through the four light switch positions the power comes off the gage panel on positions 2 and 3. Comes back on position 4, but the lights never come on.

If I turn the ignition switch as if to start I get no power at all. And no matter what I do, the lights will not come on and the starter will never even try to move (no clicking or anything-totally dead).

Could it be as simple as replacing the light switch? I’m struggling to understand how a faulty light switch could keep the tractor from starting, but I’m not well versed on how these things are wired.

Could the neutral starter safety switch have anything to do with it? That may make sense if it somehow instantly went bad as far as the no-start condition goes, but that wouldn’t affect the lights, right?

Would appreciate any insight before I call my mobile mechanic at $90 an hour, LOL.

Thanks!

 

[beenthere]

Check the battery for starters (bad pun). Do a load test.

If okay, remove and clean the + and - battery cables.

Suspect between the two, you will solve the problem.

 

[jjaaam]

Check the battery for starters (bad pun). Do a load test.

If okay, remove and clean the + and - battery cables.

Suspect between the two, you will solve the problem.

Checking the battery is the first thing I did. 12.6V. Getting the same 12.6v to the ignition switch, so the circuit breaker right before the switch is good as well.

 

[Tx Jim]

1st thing I suggest performed is check/clean/tighten all four(4) battery cable connections. If ground cable still is attached to the battery box I recommend relocating it attachment to starter mounting bolt or engine block. Over the yrs where battery box attaches to clutch housing the electrical continuity can get compromised due to rust formation. Next I suggest to check operation/connection of neutral start switch which is locate under cowl that gearshift handles protrude through.

 

[Roadworthy]

Check all your fuses. If you have a fusible link find out where and check that, too. Put voltmeter on battery when start is attempted and note whether voltage drops and how far.

 

[jjaaam]

1st thing I suggest performed is check/clean/tighten all four(4) battery cable connections. If ground cable still is attached to the battery box I recommend relocating it attachment to starter mounting bolt or engine block. Over the yrs where battery box attaches to clutch housing the electrical continuity can get compromised due to rust formation. Next I suggest to check operation/connection of neutral start switch which is locate under cowl that gearshift handles protrude through.

I’ve never pulled the cowl off for the shifters. Looks like only four bolts…anything more to it than that?

 

[jjaaam]

Check all your fuses. If you have a fusible link find out where and check that, too. Put voltmeter on battery when start is attempted and note whether voltage drops and how far.

Sorry for the idiot reply, but I’m not aware of any fuses in a 1020; just the circuit breaker that’s mounted right before the ignition switch. Would you know where a fuse might be?

 

[Tx Jim]

Sorry for the idiot reply, but I’m not aware of any fuses in a 1020; just the circuit breaker that’s mounted right before the ignition switch. Would you know where a fuse might be?

Only 1 fuse listed in 1020 parts catalog for tractor designed for sales in N America. Check links below. You're correct on R&R of cowling that gear shift handles protrude through.

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/75128/referrer/search/pgId/190091

 

[jjaaam]

Only 1 fuse listed in 1020 parts catalog for tractor designed for sales in N America. Check links below. You're correct on R&R of cowling that gear shift handles protrude through.

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/75128/referrer/search/pgId/190091

A blown fuse certainly would make life a lot simpler, LOL. Would you recall where they might be located? Within the wiring around the gages?

I just didn’t think this thing HAD any fuses…

 

[Tx Jim]

I'll bet your 1020 has no fuses! The fuse I listed above is an "option" that I've never seen on a 1020. It is an option for powering the electronic gadgets in today's electronic world.

 

[berky]

My 69 1020 has no fuses either. Agree with others to check the wiring under the cover by shifters

 

[jjaaam]

My 69 1020 has no fuses either. Agree with others to check the wiring under the cover by shifters

I’ll do so.

Let’s say the neutral switch IS the problem. That would explain the no-start. But what about the lights? Those don’t work at all either.

 

[Tx Jim]

You're correct neutral start switch only controls starter engagement & has no bearing on operation of lights. I still think bad battery cable connection is the reason for no starter operation problem

 

[jjaaam]

OK. Appreciate the insight; will have to dig into it a little deeper. Thanks!

 

[berky]

My wiring diagram shows red from starter goes to a circuit breaker and then to switch battery terminal. The light switch also goes to battery terminal on the switch. Since you say you have power at the switch this makes me lean toward a bad ground at the starter or the battery. That’s where I would start

 

[Tx Jim]

Don't forget that used battery cables can have corrosion out of sight inside cable insulation which could cause no starter engagement & dimming/no illumination of lights situation

 

[ArmyAviatr]

The first thing you should do is remove the battery and take it to an auto parts store, they will load test it for free. A battery with a dead short will show 12 volts or more but will drop to zero when you apply a load. If the battery is good then at least you can eliminate the battery from the equation.

 

[TKBlanc]

1967 JD 1020 gas. My son was using it with no problems. He stopped and turned it off so he could move some sticks out of the way. Got back on and it wouldn’t start. Wouldn’t even try to turn over - completely dead.

I got a meter and I’m getting 12v to the ignition switch. Checked continuity on all switch positions and the switch is good.

Its weird. The lights won’t work at all either. If I turn the ignition switch to ACC you can see the oil pressure light come on and the fuel gage needle bumped up, but no lights. If I cycle through the four light switch positions the power comes off the gage panel on positions 2 and 3. Comes back on position 4, but the lights never come on.

If I turn the ignition switch as if to start I get no power at all. And no matter what I do, the lights will not come on and the starter will never even try to move (no clicking or anything-totally dead).

Could it be as simple as replacing the light switch? I’m struggling to understand how a faulty light switch could keep the tractor from starting, but I’m not well versed on how these things are wired.

Could the neutral starter safety switch have anything to do with it? That may make sense if it somehow instantly went bad as far as the no-start condition goes, but that wouldn’t affect the lights, right?

Would appreciate any insight before I call my mobile mechanic at $90 an hour, LOL.

Thanks!

This might sound stupid, but my tractor will not start if I've nudged the PTO control off its nuetral/detent.

 

[jjaaam]

The first thing you should do is remove the battery and take it to an auto parts store, they will load test it for free. A battery with a dead short will show 12 volts or more but will drop to zero when you apply a load. If the battery is good then at least you can eliminate the battery from the equation.

Good info - thank you

 

[jjaaam]

This might sound stupid, but my tractor will not start if I've nudged the PTO control off its nuetral/detent.

We were using the brush hog so that may make sense. I’ll give it a shot. Thanks.