I have a 110 Tlb bought in May 2005. Here is a list of problems I've had.
Hoses for Loader routed badly and chafed after 10 hours or so. I pointed this out to the dealer and he rerouted them some. They still chafed but not as badly. He wrapped some rubber hose guards on them, that I had to replace every so ofted because they chafed instead of the hoses. No more problems during the warranty period.
About 16 months after purchase and 4 months out of warranty, one of the hydraulic lines on the loader finally chafed through. While inspecting this I noticed a leak way forward. Upon inspecting this I notced the front transaxle was leaking fluid. Took the tractor to the dealer. He found a PPI (whatever that is) for the leaking differential. And there was a retrofit kit for the hose routings to the FEL. Basically they turned the cylinders upside down to allow for more arc in the hoses. Both of these they fixed without charge even after the warranty was up. That really impressed me.
About 30 months after purchase.
The third function of the hydraulics is electrically operated by two solenoids. Three times now it has hung up in the neutral position. They want $1400 for the the 3 spool loader valve. I take the solenoids off and gently tap out the spool valve. Put it back and it will work ok as long as I work it most every day. But if it sits for a week or so, It sticks again.
Had to have the switch for the turn signals replaced twice.
Now is the first summer I've mowed with it. The hydraulic Temp gets very high while mowing. After about 45 minutes it goes into the yellow. I stop and let it cool down to the the middle of the green. Then I get about 25 minutes of mowing before it touches yellow again. I had this problem about 9 months ago while transporting some stumps. I had to haul them about a mile down the road. After a round trip it would be in the yellow again. I've checked every thing I can. Hydraulic fluid is ok. Radiator and Hydralulic cooler are clean. The rubber baffle is in place. The BH presence switch is working properly. And my feet warm up to about 140 degrees. And no, I'm not trying to mow in "C" range.
My dealer has been very helpful and he's checking on the hydraulic temp and hot feet problem now. I did notice an option for new 110's for a foot air deflector. But mines not in the serial number range. He's also checking on that.
Good things.
There hasn't been a stump I couldn't get out. One was so heavy that I had to dig an incline into the hole to get it out. The front end couldn't lift it until I hosed all the dirt out of the roots. And then only by rolling back the grapple. With the PA-30 auger it makes short work of putting in fences and foundation tubes.
The claw works wonders on vines up in the treeas and hauling stumps out of holes. On smaller pines up to about 6 inches you don't even have to dig a hole. Just grab it with the claw and rock it back and forth a few times. It's also great for stacking logs.
I can bury my two bottom plow and keep going. Though I wish it did have a draft control. The top and tilt kit is worth every penny. No more manually adjusting the plow after the first pull.
And the best part. My city slicker wife can muck out the stalls and empty the bucket on her own. She even knows how to lift the disc before moving if it's attached. Although she did make a couple scrapes down the middle of the barn one day. She came into the house to tell me the tractor was making a real bad grinding noise when she tried to move it.
JD 110 TLB
4 in 1 bucket
United Fabrication Heavy Duty Root Grapple
United Fabrication Hay Spear
United Fabrication Tree Boom
United Fabriction Palet Forks
PA-30 Auger
Ford 201 Disc Harrow
Ford 2 bottom plow
Woods rd7200 Finish Mower
Frontier BB1284 Box Blade
Hoses for Loader routed badly and chafed after 10 hours or so. I pointed this out to the dealer and he rerouted them some. They still chafed but not as badly. He wrapped some rubber hose guards on them, that I had to replace every so ofted because they chafed instead of the hoses. No more problems during the warranty period.
About 16 months after purchase and 4 months out of warranty, one of the hydraulic lines on the loader finally chafed through. While inspecting this I noticed a leak way forward. Upon inspecting this I notced the front transaxle was leaking fluid. Took the tractor to the dealer. He found a PPI (whatever that is) for the leaking differential. And there was a retrofit kit for the hose routings to the FEL. Basically they turned the cylinders upside down to allow for more arc in the hoses. Both of these they fixed without charge even after the warranty was up. That really impressed me.
About 30 months after purchase.
The third function of the hydraulics is electrically operated by two solenoids. Three times now it has hung up in the neutral position. They want $1400 for the the 3 spool loader valve. I take the solenoids off and gently tap out the spool valve. Put it back and it will work ok as long as I work it most every day. But if it sits for a week or so, It sticks again.
Had to have the switch for the turn signals replaced twice.
Now is the first summer I've mowed with it. The hydraulic Temp gets very high while mowing. After about 45 minutes it goes into the yellow. I stop and let it cool down to the the middle of the green. Then I get about 25 minutes of mowing before it touches yellow again. I had this problem about 9 months ago while transporting some stumps. I had to haul them about a mile down the road. After a round trip it would be in the yellow again. I've checked every thing I can. Hydraulic fluid is ok. Radiator and Hydralulic cooler are clean. The rubber baffle is in place. The BH presence switch is working properly. And my feet warm up to about 140 degrees. And no, I'm not trying to mow in "C" range.
My dealer has been very helpful and he's checking on the hydraulic temp and hot feet problem now. I did notice an option for new 110's for a foot air deflector. But mines not in the serial number range. He's also checking on that.
Good things.
There hasn't been a stump I couldn't get out. One was so heavy that I had to dig an incline into the hole to get it out. The front end couldn't lift it until I hosed all the dirt out of the roots. And then only by rolling back the grapple. With the PA-30 auger it makes short work of putting in fences and foundation tubes.
The claw works wonders on vines up in the treeas and hauling stumps out of holes. On smaller pines up to about 6 inches you don't even have to dig a hole. Just grab it with the claw and rock it back and forth a few times. It's also great for stacking logs.
I can bury my two bottom plow and keep going. Though I wish it did have a draft control. The top and tilt kit is worth every penny. No more manually adjusting the plow after the first pull.
And the best part. My city slicker wife can muck out the stalls and empty the bucket on her own. She even knows how to lift the disc before moving if it's attached. Although she did make a couple scrapes down the middle of the barn one day. She came into the house to tell me the tractor was making a real bad grinding noise when she tried to move it.
JD 110 TLB
4 in 1 bucket
United Fabrication Heavy Duty Root Grapple
United Fabrication Hay Spear
United Fabrication Tree Boom
United Fabriction Palet Forks
PA-30 Auger
Ford 201 Disc Harrow
Ford 2 bottom plow
Woods rd7200 Finish Mower
Frontier BB1284 Box Blade
