110v Stick Inverters

[KKempen]

I'm new to welding, and recently purchased a Forney AT-100, which has good reviews from most users.

Please excuse my ignorance, but I'm new to all this stuff.

I started practicing using 3/23" E6013, which works fairly well considering my limited skills. Fairly easy to strike an arc, and the Forney has plenty of power to melt it. (worked well from 60 amps though 100)

Next I moved to some 1/8" E6011, which was MUCH harder to strike an arc with, but burned Ok once it was lit. (welder set at 100A)

Next I tried some 3/32 E7018. (welder set at 100A) This rod was constantly sticking; very hard to start the arc. Once it started, though it was a better looking bead than the other 2 rods.

I know that striking an arc is something that takes lots of practice, but my question is this: Are 110v inverter welders like the Forney AT-100 always tough to get the arc started? Would a 220v inverter generally be easier to strike an arc with, without sticking the rod?

I like the flexibility of the 110v machine, but don't like fighting this hard to strike an arc, and am thinking maybe I should go with a 220v inverter instead.

Comments?

 

[Shield Arc]

What little experience I have with inverter welders, (never used a 120-volt stick welder) is they can be persnickety with the brand of welding rod being used. My Miller Dynasty loves ESAB's Atom Arc 7018, and ESAB's Sureweld 10P-Plus 6010, but my Everlast PowerArc 200 loves Lincoln's Excalibur 7018, and Hobart's 335A 6011, and ESAB's 10P 6010.

You may have to experiment with what brands / type of rod works best with your machine.

 

[Chilly807]

Try a small box of 7014 3/32 and see if you like them. 7018 is a good rod but a pr*** to re-light.

Sean

 

[k0ua]

Try a small box of 7014 3/32 and see if you like them. 7018 is a good rod but a pr*** to re-light.

Sean

Here is a trick to relight your 7018, Either drag the end across a rough file a couple of times, or with you glove on pinch the end of the rod pretty hard and break off the little "corn" that forms on the end. It will greatly ease the ability to restrike 7018 rods. As the guy says "stop pecking like a chicken"

James K0UA

 

[yomax4]

Not all 110v stick / tig inverters are the same. Each and every brand has a very different arc start. Never ran a Forney but the Millers and the Thermal Arcs have good arc starts. After that it would be your choice of rods. As stated above, They too can all run different. Try 7024 and 6013. Once you get the hang of it you will be able to run the others too.

 

[westbrooklawn]

I have a Miller Maxstar 150... it will run on both 110v and 220v. The 110v is handy for portability and being able to use it where 220v isn't available, but with my limited skill level I find it is easier to use on 220v, and it seems to weld better, even at lower amperage settings. That may be just me, or just my machine... don't know.

 

[rankrank1]

First, I am definitely not an expert welder (actually a Hack of a welder - LOL) so take this for what it is worth:

Your machine is only rated to run 1/16 to 3/32 rods from the manufacturer. Here is a Youtube Manufacturer video link even clearly stating this.

YouTube - Welding tips: Forney AT 100 Inverter

While you might be able to run some 1/8" diameter rods, I would guess that you would be somewhat limited to rod types that typically require less amps than other comparitive diameter rods (e.g. 1/8" 6013 usually takes less amps than 1/8" diameter 7014 or 7018 so you might be able to run 1/8" 6013 in a pinch pretty decently. Conversely, It is not uncommon for even 3/32" 7014 or 7018 rod to want more than the 100 amps that your welder can supply so there may be times that even 3/32" 7014 or 7018 does not work as well as you would like.

Lastly, Please keep updating this thread with your welders performance as you gain experience with it. I have been very intriqued with this inexpensive welder's performance (reason I found the youtube link). To me, It seems that the extra 20 amps that this cheap/lightweight/110 volt portable welder supplies would be very beneficial as compared to the Harbor Freight Inverter welder that is only 80 amps and actually a little more expensive too.

 

[k0ua]

First, I am definitely not an expert welder (actually a Hack of a welder - LOL) so take this for what it is worth:

Your machine is only rated to run 1/16 to 3/32 rods from the manufacturer. Here is a Youtube Manufacturer video link even clearly stating this.

YouTube - Welding tips: Forney AT 100 Inverter

While you might be able to run some 1/8" diameter rods, I would guess that you would be somewhat limited to rod types that typically require less amps than other comparitive diameter rods (e.g. 1/8" 6013 usually takes less amps than 1/8" diameter 7014 or 7018 so you might be able to run 1/8" 6013 in a pinch pretty decently. Conversely, It is not uncommon for even 3/32" 7014 or 7018 rod to want more than the 100 amps that your welder can supply so there may be times that even 3/32" 7014 or 7018 does not work as well as you would like.

Um.. 3/32 7018 should be in the 65 to 100 range.
I have had pretty fair luck with 7018 at 65 amps on 1/8 inch mild steel

1/8 6013 will run 80 to 130

These figures are from the miller welding calculator, but my experience with the 7018 at 65 amps is real world at least with my welder.. of course the amp settings in welders varies quite a bit I suppose.

James K0UA

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

Rank,
If your welder requires 100 amps to run 3/32 7018, something is wrong.

 

[moeh1]

I have the little forney, my experience is that yes it is a little sticky to start, you'll have to work on strike vs drag technique a bit, it welds nice once you get an arc established. I only used one brand of new 3/32 rod to check it out. I didn't actually play with it much, bought it to play with tig, which I'm setting up for.