12x16 Garden Shed Base

[Spudland_Dave]

Situation:
SWMBO would like a 12x16 Garden shed not too far from the garden to put "her stuff" like rakes, garden equipment, fertilizer, etc.. going 12x16 so we can put the F935 in it which is kinda/sorta hers as being a country girl herself, she likes to drive..LOL...I'm not balking at the idea cause it will put that much less stuff in my 30x40 when I build next year.
My question is on setting up the base....seems like everyone has their own idea...I'm planning on a Pressure Treated Framed/Decked floor (2x4's on 16" with 3/4" PT Plywood for the decking), just in case she wants to move it, or we dont want/need it anymore type thing....
Seems like everyone has their own idea on doing the earthwork...

-Haul in 3/4 Stone to make a 6-8" thick base
-Scrape off Top Soil (already done ) and call it good
-Scrape off Top Soil, mix in a few bags of quikrete dry and level it off.

I should also say that the soil where it will go is pretty much very sandy gravel...I'd call it sandy more then gravely...excellent drainage as is...

 

[bigtiller]

I built a 12 x 16 several years ago. I scraped off the sod, placed 16 foot 4x4's on the edges and 3 of them down the middle spaced about 3 feet apart and nailed 3/4 inch plywood to them. The only draw back is all the animals that like to burrow under there and live. And then the dog comes along and tries to dig them out. My next shed will be built on a concrete slab.

 

[Birdmayon]

Put up a thin strip of that plastic lattice on the bottom of the shed, keeps the critters out and looks nice too.

 

[woodlandfarms]

I am speaking without much experience, so take it with a grain of salt...

IMO, concrete is the best pad, but that is a lot of money ( a few bags will not cut it). Gravel would be my second choice, but maybe gravel combined with either concrete peir blocks or something like that. I only think gravel because it will drain water and with only 2X4 on the floor you may have moisture issues. What about scraped earth, then railroad ties?

It is just the accumulated moisture I worry about for you, otherwise flat on the ground would be the best after concrete

 

[Lloyd_E]

FWIW

I just had a pad poured. Base was in place. Placed forms 12'x26.5'. Costs was around $1000 for 7.5 yards. 4000 psi concrete.

Lloyd

 

[saltman]

I built two sheds in the past two years. One on slab and one with a skid foundation. If you like cement work and have the money then I guess I would go with the slab. I don't have much money nor do I like cement work so I would go with your method but use 2x6 pressure treated wood sitting on 6x8 or 4x6 spaced a few feet apart. It sounds like you already have the area ready and know the drainigng issues. My shed/ cabin settled just a little but I didn't prep as well as you have.

 

[skipmarcy]

Just poured the slab for my 12x20 shed last week. I formed with 2x6's then dug a monolithic footer about a foot wide down another 3 - 5 inches. The center of the pad I brought up to make a nominal 4" thick, using creek gravel. Put 6 mil plastic down and even though I had fiber added to the concrete I still put a layer of used chain link fence in about 1/2 way down into the slab. It took 3.78 cubic yards of 3500 psi concrete at $87 a yard, including the fiber they added. It would have cost that much in treated lumber to build a 16" oc floor, not including the footers/blocks etc. and you have to worry about the treated wood eating your fasteners up over time. I drill and install 1/2" anchors to attach my western red cedar floor plates - won't rot the fasteners and won't rot itself. I built my house and garage this way 2 years ago and it has been great. If you clean your form boards soon after removing them the next day you can use the lumber in building the shed without ruining a saw blade !!

 

[wedge40]

I built a "platform" for my shed about 6 years ago. I started with some level ground. (da) and then I place cement pillars that will accept 2by material. This keeps the platform up off the ground a about a foot or so. Once the deck was done I built the shed on top. I didn't want my taxes to go up because I put a permanent structure, which if had used a cement slab they would have. The only thing I did wrong was I started with 1/2" treated plywood and it was a little spongy when I walked on it, not sure what would have happened when I drove the cub cadet up there. I ended up putting another layer of 3/4" plywood down and I'm pretty sure you could drive a truck up there and it would be fine. The ramp is made out of 2by as well and if it's wet it can be pretty slick. I keep thinking I should paint with some textured paint, but I've only fell a couple of time and haven't broke anything yet.

Wedge

 

[studor]

Another alterrnative that I have used -- scrape shallow holes and fill with gravel -- put "deck blocks" on the gravel and level -- build frame and floor. I then constructed a ramp to the doors to make it easier to navigate the 12 plus inches from floor to ground. The freeze thaw cycles might move the deck blocks a little the first year but then it seems to settle down
Best thing -- no cement mixing and very little digging -- moving the shed later will not be a big issue as long as the frame and floor are strong enough

 

[schmism]

my chicken coupe is on a skid type floor set on a couple of half buried cinder blocks.

my well shed/garden shed will be 12x12 and have more of a conventional floor/foundation. Ill use my 3pt PHD to dig large post hole footings about 4' apart and at corners. small sections of sonna tube will be used at the top to ensure a level top. rebar ancors set to tie into corners for uplift. pressure treated conventional framed floor follows with shed on top. home built trusses finish it off.