DaveOmak
Platinum Member
My old 14T wasn't cutting off the hay too good even after sharpening the knives.... Sooo, time to do more rebuilding....
I had to cut an access port to remove the rusted in bolts that adjusted the "adjustment shoes".... No problem... not structural...
It was a witch to remove the rusted in bolts... had to cut out part of the flange that was blocking the removal and reinstall of the shoes... Plasma is wonderful for this task... See the "RED" circles where the flange was cut out...
These are the old shoes... they appear to be chrome plated, which would have prevented rusting, but, after 60 some years, stuff happens...
I found this material on Amazon... It is Nylon 6/6 that is impregnated with molybdenum disulfide... MDS-filled nylon offers the same good chemical resistance as unfilled nylon 6/6, but the addition of MDS (molybdenum disulphide) adds strength, increases rigidity, and acts as a dry lubricant embedded into the material to extend product life and enhance wear resistance.
The rod I found is approx. 0.115" smaller in diameter than the original shoes.. I figure that should not be much of a problem... at least it won't rust in "lockjaw" tight....
I found regular bolts to replace the originals.. work OK...
I positioned the bale plunger to determine where I could best access the shoes from the outside, and drive them in for removal... You can see the holes ... The top hole was drilled to 1/2" dia... The bottom hole was drilled with the plasma... holey kow was that faster... Then on the inside, backside of the drilled holes, the slag was ground down and smoothed with a flap disc so as to not prematurely wear my new nylon shoes... BE CERTAIN to drill the holes into the wear plate that is bolted to the interior of the bale chamber... The install bolts, for that wear rail, are visible to the right and left of the access drilled holes....
I flattened the tip, on a pointed chisel, that fit my air hammer... This tool was a MUST HAVE to drive the "rusted in" original shoes out... They took hours to drive out.. I even used a propane weed burner to heat the shoe housing to try and get clearance so they would move... I used Aero Kroil, WD 40... you name it... I worked on removing the shoes off an on for over a week...
... 
... 
Now I'm installing the shoes etc... I'm using a pry bar to "wiggle" the bale plunger to get it located so the knives have the proper clearance to cleanly cut the hay...
I'm moving the plunger in and out to check the knife clearance to each other...
I built and replace the "hay fingers etc." to tighten up the bales also.....
I used MAPP gas to heat and bend the spring steel pick up teeth to improve hay loading to the baler... works so much better...
I'm still working on the baler.. new u-joints in the PTO shaft also.... I've got hay down and I've got to get it baled and get the irrigation back on...
Thanks for lookin'... Later....
I had to cut an access port to remove the rusted in bolts that adjusted the "adjustment shoes".... No problem... not structural...
It was a witch to remove the rusted in bolts... had to cut out part of the flange that was blocking the removal and reinstall of the shoes... Plasma is wonderful for this task... See the "RED" circles where the flange was cut out...
These are the old shoes... they appear to be chrome plated, which would have prevented rusting, but, after 60 some years, stuff happens...
I found this material on Amazon... It is Nylon 6/6 that is impregnated with molybdenum disulfide... MDS-filled nylon offers the same good chemical resistance as unfilled nylon 6/6, but the addition of MDS (molybdenum disulphide) adds strength, increases rigidity, and acts as a dry lubricant embedded into the material to extend product life and enhance wear resistance.
The rod I found is approx. 0.115" smaller in diameter than the original shoes.. I figure that should not be much of a problem... at least it won't rust in "lockjaw" tight....
I found regular bolts to replace the originals.. work OK...
I positioned the bale plunger to determine where I could best access the shoes from the outside, and drive them in for removal... You can see the holes ... The top hole was drilled to 1/2" dia... The bottom hole was drilled with the plasma... holey kow was that faster... Then on the inside, backside of the drilled holes, the slag was ground down and smoothed with a flap disc so as to not prematurely wear my new nylon shoes... BE CERTAIN to drill the holes into the wear plate that is bolted to the interior of the bale chamber... The install bolts, for that wear rail, are visible to the right and left of the access drilled holes....
I flattened the tip, on a pointed chisel, that fit my air hammer... This tool was a MUST HAVE to drive the "rusted in" original shoes out... They took hours to drive out.. I even used a propane weed burner to heat the shoe housing to try and get clearance so they would move... I used Aero Kroil, WD 40... you name it... I worked on removing the shoes off an on for over a week...
... ... Now I'm installing the shoes etc... I'm using a pry bar to "wiggle" the bale plunger to get it located so the knives have the proper clearance to cleanly cut the hay...
I'm moving the plunger in and out to check the knife clearance to each other...
I built and replace the "hay fingers etc." to tighten up the bales also.....
I used MAPP gas to heat and bend the spring steel pick up teeth to improve hay loading to the baler... works so much better...
I'm still working on the baler.. new u-joints in the PTO shaft also.... I've got hay down and I've got to get it baled and get the irrigation back on...
Thanks for lookin'... Later....
