Lost my overrunning/slip clutch tonight on my old 14T, can’t figure out how to get this collar off so I can remove the clutch and open it up to figure out what broke. I can hear something metal clanking around inside. Is this collar pressed on? I removed the set screw but it won’t budge.
14T baler overrunning/slip clutch removal
- Thread starter Cougardan
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ning
Elite Member
Is that similar to the collar in this post?
Also search "removing bearing eccentric locking collar"
Also search "removing bearing eccentric locking collar"
Tx Jim
New Member
Locking collar needs to be rotated on brg inner race using a punch & hammer to free brg inner race from shaft
I’ve got another question, I’m obviously going to need to open up the clutch housing and end up having to remove the 10 slip clutch bolts, I checked with my local JD shop this afternoon to get the torque setting for when I re-install them… they couldn’t find the specs for them. Does anyone know what it is?
Tx Jim
New Member
Got it! So no actual torque setting for the bolts themselves, instead… tighten and test the torque on the actual drive system until it breaks in the correct # range… sounds simple enough. Thanks again, really appreciate the help with this!
Back down the ground travel, windrow size, or sharpen the plunger and stationary knives. There is really no need to get a slip clutch involved with hay making, unless you are picking up wet clumps, old fence posts, or already baled hay. I used an 18HP Yanmar with my 14T to effortlessly bale my fields.
Tx Jim
New Member
I disagree manufacturers installed a slip clutch for several very good reasons. If needle brake isn't snug enough to hold needles in home position when knotter trips needle frame will lower allowing ""plungerhead stop if operable"" to block travel of needle frame & needles shearing flywheel bolt.
If slip clutch is inoperable somethings going to break!!!!! Slip clutch not only protects baler but it also protects the tractor pto driveline.
My observation from being employed at JD dealership for 21 yrs many yrs ago is most slip clutches over overlooked/ignored IE not serviced. Slip clutch should be loosened & slipped then retightened at the beginning of each season.
Yeah, I forgot about the loose needle brake issue. That's the real need. If the plunger gets stuck by the stops, that's a sound the neighbors will react to ! Good point.
I was able to download the 14T service manual from JD. I’m finding the answers to all my previous questions. As frustrating as the breakdown is… I am enjoying the work on the old girl. Each time there’s an issue I’m learning more and more about how she works and fine tuning my operation of her when I’ve got her fired up and baling hay. Thank you t for everyone’s guidance on my questions, looking forward to getting her thumpin down the field again 
Got it off and opened up this morning, sheared off woodruff key and shear pin. Only took about 1 1/2 hrs total to get taken care of
I’ll check/adjust clutch pressure tomorrow night and make sure that’s set properly.
Figure since it’s down and fairly cleaned up, I’ll take some time to patch in some new sheet metal in a couple spots on the bottom of the shoot and sharpen the knife on the plunger while I’m at it.
Thanks again for help guys!
I’ll check/adjust clutch pressure tomorrow night and make sure that’s set properly.
Figure since it’s down and fairly cleaned up, I’ll take some time to patch in some new sheet metal in a couple spots on the bottom of the shoot and sharpen the knife on the plunger while I’m at it.
Thanks again for help guys!
Tx Jim
New Member
You're welcome. Thank you for updating your thread
