Buying Advice 150 Perkins diesel blowby

[Sam in TN]

Have a chance to buy a low hour (less than 3000) 1 owner 150 with fresh paint for a good price. Tractor had been sitting for many years, was given to local body shop as payment for painting owners van. They in turn painted it to help it sell. Wish they hadn't but oh well. Long story short it has excess blowby supposedly caused by a stuck ring. So bad in fact that with oil cap on it pushes oil out above the front injector, maybe valve cover? So a slobber tube was added to allow the pressure to release. Will not start with starter, turns over fast and puffs white smoke but won't even try and fire. If you roll start it it fires up quickly and runs great. Has plenty of power and runs smooth. No blue smoke at all, occasionally black but never blue. Has brand new Firestone back tires, strong hydraulics and I can buy it for $2500. Figured even if I had to do ring job I'd come out good, diesel 135's with PS sell upwards of $5000 around here, 150's even more.

So what do you think could be wrong? Stuck or bad rings wouldn't I see some blue smoke? Even when warmed up it will not restart with the battery.


Made a couple videos for you guys to see what I'm talking about, links posted below.

YouTube

YouTube

MF150 blowby - YouTube

 

[Bigfoot62]

First of all, let me say, that nobody pays me to be a mechanic. I grew up on a farm and I have operated heavy equipment most of my life. I speak from my experience, not expertise.

The exhaust looks normal for an "old-school" mechanically injected diesel engine. When you rev it up, it smokes a little. That's ok.
The blowby is terrible, but not a deal-breaker if you know that you need a rebuild from the get-go, and have factored that into the purchase price. (Have you priced a rebuild kit, including a full gasket set?)
The failure to start from the key is more of a mystery to me. Although, considering the blowby, it might just not have enough compression to fire the fuel.

On edit:
Years ago, I had a MF 50C with a similar engine. It became very hard to start, especially in cold weather. Finally realized that it had a weak battery. New battery solved the problem.

 

[Sam in TN]

First of all, let me say, that nobody pays me to be a mechanic. I grew up on a farm and I have operated heavy equipment most of my life. I speak from my experience, not expertise.

The exhaust looks normal for an "old-school" mechanically injected diesel engine. When you rev it up, it smokes a little. That's ok.
The blowby is terrible, but not a deal-breaker if you know that you need a rebuild from the get-go, and have factored that into the purchase price. (Have you priced a rebuild kit, including a full gasket set?)
The failure to start from the key is more of a mystery to me. Although, considering the blowby, it might just not have enough compression to fire the fuel.

On edit:
Years ago, I had a MF 50C with a similar engine. It became very hard to start, especially in cold weather. Finally realized that it had a weak battery. New battery solved the problem.

I will try a bigger battery and see if it helps. Engine seemed to be spinning just as fast as my 135 with the same perkins diesel. Still cant figure out if losing that much compression why i'm not seeing blue smoke from oil burning. Looks like rings, sleeves, and piston is about $60 per cylinder, so probably less than $250 shipped for all 3. Never done before so not sure if I will try it or hire it out. Even if its $1000 in labor costs I would come out ahead. I could deal with the blowby if it would just start with the starter. Tempted to try 2 small batteries in series for 24v, starter should be fine if it wasn't cranked more than couple seconds.

I ended up buying it, so hopefully I can get it figured out!

 

[mllud]

With the hard starting is possible someone used the destructive starting fluid. That can crack rings and lands. I just had to disassemble my 203 with a 3-152. It had two cylinders with cracked rings and had dropped one sleeve into the pan. I know the owner was using starting fluid to start it.
My blow by wasn't as bad as yours.
They aren't to expensive to rebuild if you can do all accept machining. I got the rebuild kit that includes the valve trane for $390.00. For what your paying you could have a nice tractor with a fresh engine. Buying knowing that you will have a fresh engine coming can be an asset . My outlook anyway.
You won't be nursing a tired worn out engine.


When a seller tells you it has a stuck ring he's guessing. Expect to just rebuild it. My opinion

Edit;
my valve guides were badly worn also.

 

[LouNY]

If it was subjected to ether for a while it is possible that the valves have "tuliped"which would result in low compression,
when you do your numbers be sure to figure on a complete valve job including valves and valve guides in addition to the complete rebuild kit.

 

[mllud]

The kit I bought came with the following. Below
You need to have any crankshaft grind done so you can order the right oversized bearings, that come with the kit.
I'm posting this because I spent a couple days researching and it may save someone else some time.

A new crankshaft is $350.00. if you need one.

You need to press old valve guides out of the head and press new ones in. Included in kit

Head resurfaced if needed and valve seats ground.

Oil pump $35.00
Water pump $45.00

The kit has upper and lower gaskets

THE sleeves in these engines had two liner differences. one had a .150 top lip and one had a ,040 top lip. Verify before ordering




Kit includes

•3-PISTON-LINER KIT & RINGS [ pistons liners and rings, Wrist pins and bushings included]

•1-MAIN BEARING SET

•1-CONNECTING ROD BEARING SET

•1-THRUST WASHER SET

•1-CRANK FRONT SEAL
•1-CRANK REAR SEAL
•1-TOP GASKET SET
•1-BOTTOM GASKET SET
•1-VALVE COVER GASKET
•1-CONNECTING ROD BUSHING SET

•1-CONNECTING ROD BOLT SET

•1-CONNECTING ROD NUT SET

•1-CAM BUSHING
•1 VALVE TRAIN KIT (which includes):
•Intake Valve Set
•Exhaust Valve Set
•Valve Guide Set
•Inner & Outer Spring Set
•Valve Lock

With tax kit was $425.00

 

[mllud]

Sam in TN

I'm not suggesting a rebuild.
Bigfoot62's suggestion on a strong battery is a good start. I have experienced that and a battery was the cure.

 

[Sam in TN]

The kit I bought came with the following. Below
You need to have any crankshaft grind done so you can order the right oversized bearings, that come with the kit.
I'm posting this because I spent a couple days researching and it may save someone else some time.

A new crankshaft is $350.00. if you need one.

You need to press old valve guides out of the head and press new ones in. Included in kit

Head resurfaced if needed and valve seats ground.

Oil pump $35.00
Water pump $45.00

The kit has upper and lower gaskets

THE sleeves in these engines had two liner differences. one had a .150 top lip and one had a ,040 top lip. Verify before ordering




Kit includes

•3-PISTON-LINER KIT & RINGS [ pistons liners and rings, Wrist pins and bushings included]

•1-MAIN BEARING SET

•1-CONNECTING ROD BEARING SET

•1-THRUST WASHER SET

•1-CRANK FRONT SEAL
•1-CRANK REAR SEAL
•1-TOP GASKET SET
•1-BOTTOM GASKET SET
•1-VALVE COVER GASKET
•1-CONNECTING ROD BUSHING SET

•1-CONNECTING ROD BOLT SET

•1-CONNECTING ROD NUT SET

•1-CAM BUSHING
•1 VALVE TRAIN KIT (which includes):
•Intake Valve Set
•Exhaust Valve Set
•Valve Guide Set
•Inner & Outer Spring Set
•Valve Lock

With tax kit was $425.00

Thats some good info right there. Any idea what labor would run? Or did you do it yourself?

 

[mllud]

Wow
I have always been my own labor. I couldn't guess. A flat rate book could give you an idea on hours then get a local shop hourly rate.

I only pay for the cranckshaft work. I'm equipped to do the hesd.

Machine shop shouldn't cost you $350 to $400

Mechanical Labor??? Pretty steep.

You got a good buy but if I couldn't do this sort of work I would buy newer with a warranty. Labor costs can kill a deal.
Its easy for me to say its not that hard because my dad would smack me in the head if I didn't have the next wrench ready to hand him.

If she needs rebuilt get a book and work through it. Any mechanic friends to help. Often lack of time is an issue for the non retired.

 

[Sam in TN]

I'm a shadetree mechanic, always done my own work and helped out friends. Just never been that far into an engine before. Might do some researching and give it a try, only one way to learn.