1510 vs. 1610

[GlenB]

I am a "newbie"---so, please bear with me. I have some questions. I've been researching the YM's and have pretty made up my mind that it's the brand I'm buying.

I have 4.5 acres...native grass and wildflowers, etc. that needs mowing maintenance, some normal dirt moving, landscaping chores and gardening areas, and about 300' of road base driveway to maintain.

Do ya'll think a 1510 or 1610 is what I can use and what implements are the right "fit" for these tractors and the tasks?

2wd or 4wd; what does the "d" stand for; i.e. 1510 d or 1610 d?

This a great forum! I've learned a lot!
GlenB

 

[mark777]

GlenB,

Welcome to TBN. 4' implements work nicely behind that series of tractor. And if your going to buy one with a loader or add a loader in the future, the shuttle shift transmission works great with FEL and rear weight (like a box blade).

4.5 acres of property - once it's well manicured, should not be a problem for a 15-1610. The "D" indicates four wheel drive.

Regards, Mark

 

[scrinch]

Welcome to the forum, GlenB. I think either of these tractors would be fine for your 4+ acres. The 1510 is a little smaller and lighter than the 1610, so it can get into tighter spaces. The 1610 has a little more metal in it so it is a little sturdier. Both would handle a 4 ft box blade and a 4 ft tiller. The 1610 would handle a little larger loader. It is also a little wider, so it would be a little better on a slope. I like 4WD just to get out of the wet, sticky stuff. Some say it is a must if you have a loader also.

Good luck!

 

[normde2001]

Have you done your homework on gray market tractors, and their inherent parts and servicing problems, reconditioned vs non-reconditioned, etc? We are constantly hearing from guys who un-knowingly buy a gray market tractor, only to find out they don't know where to buy parts, some parts just are not available, and there is absolutely no one that will work on it.

 

[evofxdwg]

By all means, if you get a front end loader - get a model with a 'D' on it (4WD).

The '10' means it also has the shuttle shift (or is it called powershift?), where you dont have to use the clutch to go between reverse and 3 fwd speeds. Comes in handy with FEL when moving back and forth a lot.

I have already gotten my 1610D temporarily stuck several times in less than 2 years but used the 4WD or FEL bucket to get right out. 4wd gives better traction with a FEL bucket of heavy dirt because the balance is shifted off the back wheels. You can also better power into a pile to get a bucketload.

I would go for the slightly bigger 1610D with that many acres - sometimes i feel my 1610D is a little underpowered - or maybe im just impatient.

I have a Koyker 80 FEL on my 1610D and would not want any larger one - a full load of Georgia red clay makes the rear end of that sucker real light. I leave the box blade on the back with some log chains on it to counterbalence.

 

[kenmac]

I checked with a couple people in my area about working on the tractor b-4 I bought & they said as long as they could get parts or I could get parts they would work on the tractor.One is a major brand dealer the other is independent dealer.

 

[srscott]

A note on the 1510 I would suggest getting the 4wd "D" if you are going to put a FEL on it. The 2wd 1510 front axle is a lightly built and can break under the added stresses of using a FEL. The 1510D front axle is much stronger and can handle the load. I don[t know about the 1610 but would imagine that it is very similar.
As for which tractor? I think I'm gonna leave that one to the guys with lots more experience. Good luck with it!

 

[LMTC]

No comparison. 1610 is much easier to support with parts, and much more capable with a loader than a 1510. Nothing wrong with a 1510, but it ain't a 1610.

 

[GlenB]

Thanks a bunch, Guys! All this has been great response and info.

I had pretty much made up my mind to go with the 1610 d or even on up to a slightly larger model. I just don't want to buy something under-sized nor over-kill for what I need to use it for. (Budget is also a factor!) /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Norm: I've done a "ton" of research on the gray market compacts vs. a domestic or normally imported compact (Kubota, etc.). I'm pretty comfortable with the Yanmar, especially after I saw that the YM is pretty much a "red" JD. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

I guess my biggest concerns are shared by many others--the ROPS, PTO shields, the over-running clutch, and other safety factors. However, it seems to me, that using by sound operating "sense" a person should be able to operate the tractor safely. When I was a kid (too many years ago to remember very well!) I don't recall any of that stuff on my Grandad's 8N or on his other big tractor--it was a JD, just don't know which one.

In addition, I notice that aftermarket items, such as the ROPS and over-running clutch are becoming more readily available--some dealers are offering those as an option.

I'm also making sure that the "dealer" I choose can provide me parts support or be a resource for follow-up customer service. In my part of Texas, I've looked at couple of folks...one looks more appealing to me, in terms of "service-after-the-sale" type things.

Another question: Should I purchase front end ballast, and, if yes--how much?

Again, great forum and thanks!
Glen B

 

[normde2001]

Good on you for the gray market research, at least you won't be blind sided. None of those missing items are that big of a deal for gray market owners, other than you WILL need a ORC to run a rotary cutter, and you will want a driveshaft shield. Tractors were used in this country long before ROPS and PTO shields were required, just be smart, and who cares whether you push or pull the throttle to rev or shut down. If you are looking at 4WD models you might want to try and check the front differential lube. Those tractors were known to operate belly deep in rice paddies and get water in the front differential. Those front differential parts seem to be hard to get for a lot of models at any price.