1900 getting warmer than normal

[Hooked_on_HP]

I have noticed lately that while mowing my 1900 is getting warmer than it has before. The temp guage doesn't have numbers just marks.It has always stayed rite about 12 oclock on the guage. Now it is about 2 oclock. I have changed the thermostat and flushed the radiator inside and out. I also pressure tested the system and checked for headgasket leak and everything tested fine.I am wondering if the impeller on the water pump could be getting worn..The tractor has 2200 hrs. Also the service manual shows rebuilding the water pump.Has anyone done this or if I decide the pump is the problem, should I just replace it.
Bill

 

[JC-jetro]

I have noticed lately that while mowing my 1900 is getting warmer than it has before. The temp guage doesn't have numbers just marks.It has always stayed rite about 12 oclock on the guage. Now it is about 2 oclock. I have changed the thermostat and flushed the radiator inside and out. I also pressure tested the system and checked for headgasket leak and everything tested fine.I am wondering if the impeller on the water pump could be getting worn..The tractor has 2200 hrs. Also the service manual shows rebuilding the water pump.Has anyone done this or if I decide the pump is the problem, should I just replace it.
Bill

Hey Bill,

You've done all the right things and I'll add one more thing to it. I had a Buick skylark when I was in college. I had the same thing happened to me and I did exactly all the things you have done and was ready to replace the pump. The pump main seal tell tale hole did not show any leaks. While was trying to take the lower radiator hose off I noticed the elbow was as hard as rock and upon further investigation saw there was a spring inside the lower hose to keep the pipe from collapsing, this thing was totally rusted out to a ball with bunch of calcification from bad Oklahoma water and very old antifreeze. Any how changed the lower radiator hose and I was in business with full pump flow. You might have a blockage there. I have replaced many water pumps and yet to see an overhaul kit. The pump shaft seal install will be tricky and a bit of impeller pitting is not going to make major flow change. There is hardly ever a pump curve is available for automotive water pumps and flow pressure testing is very difficult at best with the pump on the vehicle. I think changing the pump is the easier thing to do.

good luck,

JC,

 

[rayikeo2]

JC is right, if the pump is bad you need to replace it. First make sure the radiator screen is clean of grass and weeds. My first time that is all I had to do, clean the screen. Take it off and look behind it, you may need to hose the screen and radiator. The second time my pump went bad and the shaft started to wobble enough to start rubbing on the inside of the radiator. It was still working but making a noise where it was rubbing.I replaced it before it completely came apart and ruined the radiator. After I got it off it fell into 2 pieces. I got my new one off ebay for around $100 and it works just as good as the original. It was easy and quick to replace. My Tractor is a 1700.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

JC, where did you get the radiator hose from? My hoses look like the origionals so it wouldn't hurt to change them. The first thing I did was check the screen and clean the outside of the radiator.
Bill

 

[JC-jetro]

JC, where did you get the radiator hose from? My hoses look like the origionals so it wouldn't hurt to change them. The first thing I did was check the screen and clean the outside of the radiator.
Bill

Bill,

I know a guy from Parts America Automotive store. I flushed my radiator, checked everything, took the upper and lower hose off and took it there to see if they can match it. He said why don't you go back there eyeball them and pick up the ones you want. I think they are 1 1/2" dia and it took me less than 5 minutes to pick up two matching ones. The upper was perfect match band but I had to trim the lower one about 1/4". I don't know if it is perfect match with 1900 or not. The Parts America # for upper is B7163 and SKU# 15590040 and the lower was 71718CS and could not read the SKU# on that. Both came up about $12 if I remember it right.


JC

 

[Texas Blues]

It is also possible that the cores in the radiator are clogged. Water will still flow through the radiator, but at a reduced rate. Did you flush the radiator with any chemicals? Anyhow something to consider before pulling the pump, or if the pump looks good when you take it off. There are ways to watch water flow coming out of the top hose. Good Luck! TB

 

[rayikeo2]

I just thought of this, one of the problems I had on my 1700. Check the belt tension to see if the pump is slipping. When the shaft bearing started to wear out on my pump the pulley shaft started to wobble and that caused the belt tension to get loose and the water pump was not turning at full speed. You can check this easy by trying to turn the fan blade by hand while the engine is off. If the blade turns easy then start your tractor and look to see if the shaft is wobbleing. You may not be able to see it but you have to be very careful if you tighten the belt it will only get worse. The shaft will eventually break off the pump and ruin the radiator. If this is the cause the water pump has to be replaced before it seperates. My water pump fell into 2 pieces when I removed it.

 

[vic4news]

I agree with Texas Blues that you should check the radiator for clogged cores.
Usually, the lower portion clogs up first. If part of radiator is just warm it indicates a clog. The best way to test the temp is with an infrared laser thermometer, but you can also feel the radiator with your hand.

Vic

 

[JC-jetro]

I just thought of this, one of the problems I had on my 1700. Check the belt tension to see if the pump is slipping. When the shaft bearing started to wear out on my pump the pulley shaft started to wobble and that caused the belt tension to get loose and the water pump was not turning at full speed. You can check this easy by trying to turn the fan blade by hand while the engine is off. If the blade turns easy then start your tractor and look to see if the shaft is wobbleing. You may not be able to see it but you have to be very careful if you tighten the belt it will only get worse. The shaft will eventually break off the pump and ruin the radiator. If this is the cause the water pump has to be replaced before it seperates. My water pump fell into 2 pieces when I removed it.

Great point Ray,

Tighter belt is not always better as to the damage it can cause by improper loading of the bearing and shaft seal. Since the radiator fan blade does not have a clutch I don't know if you'll be able to rotate the blade easy even with some wobble. I think, I'd take of the belt and feel the fan blade/pump shaft for any out of round or wobble. That might give some clues as well.

Bill,

Have you established the fact that you have pump problem for sure?


JC,

 

[Texas Blues]

I would drain and save your antifreeze, remove the thermostat, put the thermostat housing back on, remove the upper hose from the radiator end. Then fill the radiator with a water hose (put masking tape over the upper hose connector on the radiator). Direct the upper hose away from the tractor so you dont make a mess, then you can start the tractor and see what the water flow looks like. Of course making sure the water supply going into the radiator is constant and enough to do this test. This will at least show you what the flow looks like. If the radiator doesnt empty very fast and the volume coming out of the upper hose is weak, the radiator could be clogged. Unless the pump is coming apart, it is probably still pushing water ok. Only one wat to see what the impeller looks like though, and thats to pull the pump and look inside it. And then, if the volume of water coming out looks good, then the problem may be elswhere. Maybe the thermostat was just being sticky? Good Luck! TB